SpitFire Code

[SYSTEM aka (Cyberpyrot)]

This mod is fairly simple to do but it will be lengthy. Setting up the controller to accept pre programmed chips is not hard but there are many components to solder and lots of wires. Luckily Microsoft has given us plenty of space to work with.. Please if you do this mod be considerate and do not use this controller for online matches as it will give you a huge advantage with "Insta Kills". AcidMods in no way condones cheating or unfair advantages with that being said lets proceed to part one of this lengthy mod.

Warning!!!! Using this Mod for Online Multiplayer is Cheating and will get your Xbox Banned!!! All though this mod is undetectable using it against other players with out there knowledge will get you bad feed back and will result in a banned account. Only use this mod in Privite games with friends who know you are using it or playing alone in campaingns.

Part one of this mod deals with setting up the socket so you can swap out chips for each game. Since the chips only have so much space to work with and it would be a pain for people to cycle through hundreds of different setups we will limit the macros to five per chip. That means you will have a chip for Halo a chip for Gears of War Etc...

Parts Needed:

1: 30 awg Kynar Wire
2: Solder, soldering iron and paste
3: Dremel with cut off wheel
4: Hot Glue Gun and Glue
5: 18 pin Socket
6: 2 X 22pf Capacitors
7: 4 MHz crystal
8: .1uf Capacitor
9: 2 momentary Buttons
10: 1 momentary Buttons
11: Proto PCB from RadioShack
12: 1 X 3mm or 5mm LED
13: 3 X 10K ohm resistors
14: 1 X 4.7K ohm resistor
15: Torx #9 Security Bit
16: PIC16F84A

Hex Code For COD4

Please Download Code For Model Controller. This is the Code if you already have a Microcontroller Flasher. If you do not you will be able to purchase a chip with the software on it at imagesco.com. This Code only works with chip 16F84A.

X801769-026     COD4-Basic-All-Models



A plethora of parts most of what is needed here can be found at www.Imagesco.com ----->Parts-27 $9.95(Parts Only)<-----
You can also buy the pic programmer there if you want to make your own code but if not you will later be able to buy all the different chips for different games there as well..


Part One of Tutorial Adding Socket

Step 1: Cut two slots for the feet of the socket to go through the battery pack for this location you can only use the rechargeable batteries and you will later find out you will need to cut the AA terminals off of the I/O board of the controller.. You will most likely need to grind down the inside of the battery pack so you can see the feet as you will need to solder wires to them..




Step 2: Carefully check the feet to make sure you have enough sticking out the other side to bend them down that will hold the socket in place allowing you to solder to the pins without worry of the socket falling out.



Step 3: Check the clearance of the mic as you don’t want to start hacking away at the chip or the mic later to make everything fit properly. A good way to do this is to reassemble the controller and pop the mic in place.



Step 4: Once positioning is good solder a 30 awg kynar wire to each of the 20 pins. After the pins are soldered take some Vaseline and grease up your battery  no I'm not crazy... once the battery is greased pump a lot of hot glue over the wires in the battery cavity and quickly pop your greased battery in place allowing the hot glue to squeeze out. Once the glue has cooled for five minutes remove the battery. You will now notice that the wires are protected in a nice plastic shell preventing them from getting pulled accidentally.



Step 5: As you can see on this side I put a piece of cardboard preventing the glue from squeezing through. This is very important as the wires will need to be flush with the case in order for the I/O board to fit properly. I also lined up the wire so they are very low profile it is not important to use different color wires as we can just check them for continuity later as we go..



Step 6: Here is what the battery looks like when in place. Every thing fits perfect after all we want the controller to look stock when our buddies come over for some pwnage.



Step 7: Here is it with the chip in place. I know the socket is 20 pins and the chip is 18 pins I plan on using the outside pins as an input for changing the modes on the chip.






Part Two of Tutorial Adding Buttons

Adding the buttons to the controller is fairly strait forward just make sure you pick buttons that suit your need and fit well in the controller. I choose big red ones so I had to remove the rumble motor quick connects and solder the motors strait to the I/O board.




You want to drill two equal holes so you can control 2 macro's like "Automatic Pistols in Halo" and "Shotty blast switch to pistol and three burst fire." this will make for some interesting combo's..



This is what your bottom half of the controller should look like when you are complete. If you made it this far the hard part is over. The rest is just simple soldering to traces and component feet.



Here is a quick reference of the button circuits we will go into detail later on the entire wiring of the chip I just posted this here as a quick reference. Sometimes it is easier to break large circuits into smaller ones as it is easier to wire in sections as not to forget something.

Drill a small hole for either a 3mm or 5mm LED. This LED will be used as an indicator LED letting you know what setting you have programmed. I used a 5mm red LED for my controller. I used hot glue to hold the LED in place. You can install your led in a more discreet location as not to arouse suspicion.




Like the LED you will need to drill a hole for a sub miniature momentary switch. This switch is how you will switch between stored functions on the micro controller. Like the LED you can mount this switch in any location you wish.





Part Three of Tutorial Making the Crystal for the Internal Clock


You will need to cut a small section of proto PCB for a location to mount the Clock crystal. We want to do this to prevent the components from rattling loose. Once we have the board cut we will need to solder the 4 MHz Crystal, the two 22pf Capacitors and the .1uf capacitor..




Here is the basic wiring diagram for your Crystal this will be soldered to pins 15 and 16 and connected to ground. This is important as the chip will not work without it connected correctly. you may design your board any way you wish or use raw wire as long as the pathway is as the diagram shows....

Here is my board I tried to make it Small then I encased it in hot glue to prevent it from grounding. You can make yours any way you wish as long as it follows the design.



Here is a blow up view the crystal is on the other side..



Here is the internal wiring for the 360 SpitFire 360 controller. With this diagram you should be able to complete the controller portion of the mod next step is getting the chip needed for Xtreme Gamming.

Pinouts for the controller




Download Larger Image ----->Here<-----

1: Left Trigger
2: D-Pad Left
3: D-Pad Down
4: D-Pad Right
5: D-Pad Up
6: Select
7: 360 Dome
8: Start
9: X Button
10: Y Button
11: B Button
12: A Button
13: Right Trigger
14: Right Shoulder
15: Left Shoulder

Yellow is Not used in this version

[SYSTEM aka (Cyberpyrot)]

SpitFire 360 Wired Controller Tutorial

Parts Needed:

1: 30 awg Kynar Wire
2: Solder, soldering iron and paste
3: Dremel with cut off wheel
4: Hot Glue Gun and Glue
5: 18 pin Socket
6: 2 X 22pf Capacitors
7: 4 MHz crystal
8: .1uf Capacitor
9: 2 momentary Buttons
10: 1 momentary Buttons
11: Proto PCB from RadioShack
12: 1 X 3mm or 5mm LED
13: 3 X 10K ohm resistors
14: 1 X 4.7K ohm resistor
15: PIC16F84A


A plethora of parts most of what is needed here can be found at www.Imagesco.com ----->Parts-27 $9.95(Parts Only)<-----
You can also buy the pic programmer there if you want to make your own code but if not you will later be able to buy all the different chips for different games there as well..


Part One of Tutorial Adding Socket

Step 1: Cut two slots for the feet of the socket to go through the battery pack for this location you can only use the rechargeable batteries and you will later find out you will need to cut the AA terminals off of the I/O board of the controller.. You will most likely need to grind down the inside of the battery pack so you can see the feet as you will need to solder wires to them..




Step 2: Carefully check the feet to make sure you have enough sticking out the other side to bend them down that will hold the socket in place allowing you to solder to the pins without worry of the socket falling out.



Step 4: Once positioning is good solder a 30 awg kynar wire to each of the 20 pins. After the pins are soldered pump a lot of hot glue over the wires. Allow the glue to cool for five minutes. You will now notice that the wires are protected in a nice plastic shell preventing them from getting pulled accidentally.



Step 5: I also lined up the wire so they are very low profile it is not important to use different color wires as we can just check them for continuity later as we go..





Part Two of Tutorial Adding Buttons

Adding the buttons to the controller is fairly strait forward just make sure you pick buttons that suit your need and fit well in the controller. I choose big red ones so I had to remove the rumble motor quick connects and solder the motors strait to the I/O board.

You want to drill two equal holes so you can control 2 macro's like "Automatic Pistols in Halo" and "Shotty blast switch to pistol and three burst fire." this will make for some interesting combo's..

This is what your bottom half of the controller should look like when you are complete. If you made it this far the hard part is over. The rest is just simple soldering to traces and component feet.



Here is a quick reference of the button circuits we will go into detail later on the entire wiring of the chip I just posted this here as a quick reference. Sometimes it is easier to break large circuits into smaller ones as it is easier to wire in sections as not to forget something.

Drill a small hole for either a 3mm or 5mm LED. This LED will be used as an indicator LED letting you know what setting you have programmed. I used a 5mm red LED for my controller. I used hot glue to hold the LED in place. You can install your led in a more discreet location as not to arouse suspicion.




Like the LED you will need to drill a hole for a sub miniature momentary switch. This switch is how you will switch between stored functions on the micro controller. Like the LED you can mount this switch in any location you wish.




Here is what the under side looks like use hot glue to keep LED in place..





Part Three of Tutorial Making the Crystal for the Internal Clock


You will need to cut a small section of proto PCB for a location to mount the Clock crystal. We want to do this to prevent the components from rattling loose. Once we have the board cut we will need to solder the 4 MHz Crystal, the two 22pf Capacitors and the .1uf capacitor..




Here is the basic wiring diagram for your Crystal this will be soldered to pins 15 and 16 and connected to ground. This is important as the chip will not work without it connected correctly. you may design your board any way you wish or use raw wire as long as the pathway is as the diagram shows....

Here is my board I tried to make it Small then I encased it in hot glue to prevent it from grounding. You can make yours any way you wish as long as it follows the design.



Here is a blow up view the crystal is on the other side..



Here is the internal wiring for the 360 SpitFire 360 controller. With this diagram you should be able to complete the controller portion of the mod next step is getting the chip needed for Xtreme Gamming.

Pinouts for the controller




Download Larger Image ----->Here<-----

1: Left Trigger
2: D-Pad Left
3: D-Pad Down
4: D-Pad Right
5: D-Pad Up
6: Select
7: 360 Dome
8: Start
9: X Button
10: Y Button
11: B Button
12: A Button
13: Right Trigger
14: Right Shoulder
15: Left Shoulder

Yellow is Not used in this version

[Rapid Controllerz]

So, I saw a thread on how to do this on a PIC12F683, this would be ideal to try out different codes? If the code didnt work could you erase the data on it and try a different code on the same PIC?

[Modded Matt]

So, I saw a thread on how to do this on a PIC12F683, this would be ideal to try out different codes? If the code didnt work could you erase the data on it and try a different code on the same PIC?

this thread is about the spitfire mod, with spitfire the microcontroller can control macros to all the triggers,faces buttons etc..making complex combos (macros) work with the press of a single button..

you are the same guy asking about hazers code..you can wire a 8 pin socket to the outside of your controller, similar to the way this one was done, so the chip can be swaped out easily, and if you dont like the program, erase and reprogram. yes, but its not the same as this spitfire

[btripp]

I have a question. I am about to mod my controller. I wanted to know how to use it once its built. Like how do i set a macro or is that part of the hex. Basically i was wondering how to set a macro or how to rapid fire any button. Like can you make rapid fire x or something.

Thanks

[e3p3s3334]

hello i am wondering if with your spitfire mods if i would be able to do the modding on an old matrix wireless board and alos if so would i have to do different coding and wiring. also does this still work especially for cod waw and would u come out with new codes for when mw2 comes out. i would like to know as soon as possible just so tht i know if it is worth while trying to do this mod. i am using this mod basically so tht i can replace the function of the left bumper on my controller if its not possible for me to fix.

[t0pP8uZz]

For those intrested in mappable controllers. (Macros, Button Remaps etc) im working on a project.

Ill post project thread link here as soon as it gets in development.