anologe replacements'

[WHITE 4ND N3RDY]

I got my hands on another XB1 controller with a busted left stick anologe. As I replaced the anologe the controller went berserk. I noticed on the anologe mechanism there are serial numbers on them. This leads me to believe each controller board is calibrated to the anologes. I looked @ 3 different sets of board each of them are different. They all show markings like SW 3e or SE 5V. For the one controller I successfully swapped out the LS I must of got real lucky and had a anolge that was very similar to the other stock anologe on the board. My conclusion is if u want a sucessful anolge swap u need the exact same serial number identification to the stock anologes that were originally on. This is probably 1 & a 1000 chances of getting. My analises is it does not look good for anologe swaps on XB1 controllers.

[light-of-jesus]

I don't think you are correct.  Typically electronic components are marked with the part number as well as some other information like package type, year code, week code, and temperature range. I would assume these numbers and letters are just that. 

[WHITE 4ND N3RDY]

I may not be correct as this is just a hypothesis I have. I'm not the only member who feels that the anolge replacement is some how calibrated to a specific board when it comes down to anologe drift. Here's a link. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43484.0.html

I get a lot of what u are saying and I don't denie that you are inncorrect, all I can say is try this swap yourself and post your results.

I successfully did one swap. My other swap had horrible drift issues. I marked my stock anologe positions as well, did everything by the book and still was in able to reconcile the issue.

[Modded Matt]

Me and other experienced members have come to the same conclusion months ago. I dont believe the lot numbers stamped on the sticks are related at all, but I do believe they are factory calibrated to account for the dead zone.

its one in one thousand that swaps and works successfully.

[BattleBeaverCustoms]

This is a shot in the dark at best, but when I had the same issues on 360 I would clip off the pots from the mech and put them in the same spot. Sometime it helped and worked. Granted I never used a Cronus when i did the 360 swaps.

On xboxone I ordered a batch of replacements that have been decent so far. Not perfect but I have fixed about 20 controllers with drifiting issues. Some read out better if you swap the pots onto the new mechs. Ive gotten within a point or 2, not noticeable by any means.


Another trick, I also sell Domed sticks through my Ebay Store and website, the pin radius that contacts the shell is thinner by a little, so any issues with slowturn or not hitting the full end point are corrected. On a stock controller while on the Cronus, I hit 100 about 1mm before i contact the shell.

just some friendly knowledge from tinkering.