t0pFire - Fully Loaded Rapidfire System [FREE-RELEASE][*2.0 Revision 7*]

[Buick455]

Well that’s 3 CG’s that don’t work in BF1943 with this code (2.0 R-5) for me, but GameplayRF2 worked again with the same wiring, lol. It’s got to be either my PICs (3 or 4 from same batch) or my luck (3 bad controllers), but the wife has a nice new pink controller now, lol.

I’m using my Prg-017 USB PIC programmer from MCUMall and the USBPICPrg that came with it, have had it about 1.5 – 2 years, flashed 50 or so times with it. Also went to my brothers and used an old ghetto serial programmer I built like 3-4 years ago b/c I thought maybe WinPic would solve the issue (PRG-017 won’t work with WinPic), it didn’t. All flashes were verified ok.

My wiring is fine since GamePlayRF2 works perfectly, and it’s imposable to short the same thing out 10+ times on 3 diff controllers, with all new parts. I have also tested every connection with my multimeter from pin to point & w/ my DIY probe. Give me a lil credit here, lol..

I give up, I know I got it all wired correctly... If it’s my PICs, I’m not buying more for a long time and I’m definitely not buying another controller just for this. GamePlayRF2 works well enough for me to play around with both games, although it’s a shame b/c I liked the setup & custom speed mode allot.

I am going to add something here:

1. Is the wiring completely installed? Some people leave out the left trigger and/or the left LED. This could cause problems that would not normally be picked up.

2. If the wiring is complete, then my code would not work correctly if there was a mistake with the wiring as is being suggested by everyone else. But make sure you test everything. The left trigger should also rapidfire when enabled with the left tact.

3. The problems you are describing only happen with this one game. Describe the unwanted behavior, but also tell us what button would normally cause that action in the first place under normal circumstances.

4. You say these problems exist even when the chip is 'turned off'. What does that mean? Is it the first mode where the RF is disabled? And what I find interesting is you are basically saying that the GameplayRF code does not cause this behavior, on or off. Is that correct?

In my opinion, looking at those 4 questions there seems to be more to this than simply saying its a bad install. If it was a bad install, there would be obvious problems with GameplayRF especially since that code performs ADC on reset to determine controller type. It would act very strange on a bad install.

1.   Yes, completely wired (only difference is the LEDs are swapped)

2.   Yes, with your code in BF1943 and Lt RF turned on (enabled) when I pull and hold the trigger it goes back and forth from A.D.Sight to HipFire. When I turn off Lt Rf (disabled) and hold the trigger it just A.D.Sight like a stock controller should.

3.   Yes this one game that I know of, haven’t tried much else. Describe it is simple.. if you’re A.D.Sight, you cant sprint. Its like I’m pulling the trigger but not (it doesn’t look like I’m aiming in game either)

4.   Both sides (Lt & Rt) are disabled, no LEDs, no RF.

GamePlayRF2.hex:
Lt & Rt RF Disabled:
Lt Trigger Held – Aims Down Sight until I let go
Rt Trigger Held – Fires Like a stock controller (one shot per pull)
Up on Lt Thumb – Walks
Up on Lt Thumb & Click Lt Thumb - Sprints
Lt & Rt Enabled:
Lt Trigger Held – goes back and forth from A.D.Sight to HipFire until I let go
Rt Trigger Held – Fires like a MG until I let go
Up on Lt Thumb – Walks
Up on Lt Thumb & Click Lt Thumb - Sprints

Just like it should, no issues…

TopFire.hex (2.0 R-5):
If your testing it fire a few bullets first.. It will sprint fine until you fire (weird right)
Lt & Rt RF Disabled:
Lt Trigger Held – Aims Down Sight until I let go
Rt Trigger Held – Fires Like a stock controller (one shot per pull)
Up on Lt Thumb – Walks
Up on Lt Thumb & Click Lt Thumb – Walks (should be sprinting)
Lt & Rt Enabled:
Lt Trigger Held – goes back and forth from A.D.Sight to HipFire until I let go
Rt Trigger Held – Fires like a MG until I let go (although bad timings for this game)
Up on Lt Thumb – Walks
Up on Lt Thumb & Click Lt Thumb - Walks (should be sprinting)

In the end just isn’t right with the RF disabled or enabled. I wish I could get a video of it showing the button presses at the same time…

[spurgurgle]

this isa very odd set of issues your having.. and i would like to test this out.. but i dont have BF 1943..
isnt BF 1943 the bf arcade game they released???

and also have you tried the on BF bad company???? if so i can test out on that game as i have it....

also if anyone else has bf1943 it would be nice if you could test this and get the same results so we dcan start undrstanding the issue with it......

it just sounds wierd to me that the RF is effecting a anolog click.....

[Buick455]

this isa very odd set of issues your having.. and i would like to test this out.. but i dont have BF 1943..
isnt BF 1943 the bf arcade game they released???

and also have you tried the on BF bad company???? if so i can test out on that game as i have it....

also if anyone else has bf1943 it would be nice if you could test this and get the same results so we dcan start undrstanding the issue with it......

it just sounds wierd to me that the RF is effecting a anolog click.....

Not to odd, if the left trigger pot is thinking its pulled, you cant sprint.. its like BF is more sensitive then cod.

yeah, it's a xbox arcade download.. there is the free demo you all can DL...

My brother has BF:BC I'll go grab it from his house and let ya know..

[story time, non-important  ramblings]
I was over my cousins playing cod and when we finished his dad/my uncle) wanted to play his BF1943 (he only likes WWII games, lol). I kept hearing him  'n from the other room "Run damn it" "WTF" "SOB" ect.. when i went in the room he showed me what it was doing and he switched to one of my cousins stock/un-modded controllers and the problem stoped. I did it to me also when i got home in the demo... so like you all thought it was a wiring issue/short. i ripped it apart and rebuilt it, checked my connections with the multimeter and my probe, all was good. tested in game, same issue persist. pulled apart again b/c i thought maybe it was shorting out when i was snapping the case back together (pinching something maybe, its tight in there). re-built again, left the case in half and tested in BF1943, still happened. All this was before i even posted about the issue.
Post Merge: February 18, 2010, 07:58:05 AMBF:BC is also screwy for me, sprints and then won’t sprint.. Seems more sporadic, it’s not the same as BF1943 though. The controls are a lil different...

[The following was figured out using a stock controller]
1943:
Lt Thumb Up (hold) & Click Lt Thumb = Sprint
BC:
Lt Thumb Up (hold) & Click Lt Thumb (hold) = Sprint

(This might be a coincidence)
When it won’t let me sprint, I tap the Rt Trigger (quickly once) and it will start to work again "sometimes". More craptastic results 

I'm going to try with GPRF2.hex in a few.. right now I need to find something to make a icsp tail, to route out of the controller b/c this open, close, open, close BS is driving me crazy, lol..

[Hazer]

Not to odd, if the left trigger pot is thinking its pulled, you cant sprint.. its like BF is more sensitive then cod.

There is what I was looking for. If there are small enough pulses being sent out to the left/right triggers in such a way that the game does respond to them in real-time but enough to cancel another in-game action (like the behavior being described) then that would explain why you cannot sprint in this one game.

There may be an inadvertant switching of the TRIS register that happens so fast it never gets noticed, with the exception of this game.

[t0pP8uZz]

Hazer i was just about to say the exact same thing.

And i think i know why, Hazer whats your pulse time when the trigger is held down? For most of the modes including the custom programming its 20millisecond pull time. i had issues with this before maybe it needs retuning. As i said hazer whats yours set too? obviously auto burst modes are much longer!

[Hazer]

My code uses the FIRERATE for both pull and release timing. In normal mode, its the actual hex value. In COD5 mode, I use half that rate for the release, and 1.5X the rate for the pull.

When RF is active, it latches the output in one state always (low for CG, high for MX). It then only toggles the pin from input to output for the pulses. When RF is off, the pin always stays as an input.

For burst mode, the pin remains an input until the PIC sees a change in the trigger. Then it activates the programmed number of shots and waits for the trigger to get released before monitoring again.

[t0pP8uZz]

Yeah simular to t0pfire.

Umm, The speeds just need slightly tweaking.

[Buick455]

well i got my ICSP jack installed today.. Hardest part was the damn connector for my programmer (all scrap parts). Its sweet not having to open the controller  If ya get anything you need me to test t0p just lemme know. swapping from GPRF2.hex to TF.hex takes about 30 seconds for me now.

[Modded Matt]

the leds are backwards though. dont forget lol

and buick, is there anyway you can fix your avitar, it just shows up as an X (broken image) I hate them.

[Buick455]

the leds are backwards though. dont forget lol

yeah, I actually wired mine correctly for hazers code, so t0ps is backasswards on mine, lol.. no biggie

[Squeck]

Hey buick could you post a photo of your controller with the icsp socket? thank you and sorry for the off topic

[Buick455]

Hey buick could you post a photo of your controller with the icsp socket? thank you and sorry for the off topic

i have it all back together now, but i can tell ya how i did it 
I'll drop it in the install tut spur made, doesnt belong here: https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34229.msg264666.html#msg264666

[t0pP8uZz]

Buick: Nice, Did you isolate the programming voltage? (13v)

If you wana help around id like someone to make a simple ICSP tutorial or even scematic for other people to use, just something with a jack or usb on.

Also t0pFire is going to get updated pretty soon. I want some suggestions.

Shall i swap the LED's same as Hazer's? so reflashing the PIC is a perfect install for both code's.
Remove some modes? make mode changing quicker? make all modes reprogrammable?

Need some suggestions for 00.3. or possibly a revision update.

[Buick455]

Buick: Nice, Did you isolate the programming voltage? (13v)

If you wana help around id like someone to make a simple ICSP tutorial or even scematic for other people to use, just something with a jack or usb on.

Also t0pFire is going to get updated pretty soon. I want some suggestions.

Shall i swap the LED's same as Hazer's? so reflashing the PIC is a perfect install for both code's.
Remove some modes? make mode changing quicker? make all modes reprogrammable?

Need some suggestions for 00.3. or possibly a revision update.

I have the PRG-017 USB PIC programmer from MCUMall and it has a ICSP header onboard. all that was needed for internal flashing was a patch cable from:
(This is from memory, don’t quote me)
(PRG –to-Chip)
GND - pin 8
Vcc - pin 1
(ICSP)CLK - pin 6
(ICSP)DAT - pin 7
Vpp - pin 4

I pull the batt holder out of my controller hook up the cable to my programmer and that’s it. I never really used ICSP before this so it was a learnin for me, lol.. Not sure but it might be different for everyone depending on programmer… my ghetto programmer didn’t have a ICSP header of any sort

I am only hoping for the burst update you spoke of and the lil bug with BF1943 & BC fixed.

Swapping the LEDs to match hazers wiring would be cool for me, but not needed.. I guess it depends on how many people need to rewire just to flash, lol. hell, it could just be 2 diff hex's.. the LED pins are defined once in the beginning of the asm aren’t they? could just flop umm. T0PFIRE2.0REV5 (GP Wiring).hex & T0PFIRE2.0REV5 (TF Wiring).hex.. You should poll us to see if re-wiring will be an issue for ppl.  (I think spur said he rebuilds his every time he flashes it)

I like the “sound” of robbo3’s - 3 mode prog-able (haven’t used it yet) b/c its wired like BMU (no more controllers to mod, lol). Only problem I see is (for me anyway) that fact that the each mode will need to be programmed to a speed all my games will handle or I will be re-programming as often as I swap games (that’s alot).
I think the whittled down 8 mode you got is a good mix of everything (although rough to scroll through). It gives me a mix of speeds, and one custom to play with. Correct me if I’m wrong but your custom setup changes (+/-) the speed in larger increments then robbos doesn’t it? Like his has finer tuning or is it the other way around? That’s the only other thing I can think of..

[tomcat]

You should drop it to like 5 modes and add a jitter mode, rewiring the leds would be a good idea... Greatwork
@ buick455 why wouldn't you just have an external 8 pin socket, then you can just pop the chip out and reprogram it and put it back in. much cheaper... i bought like 50 sockets for $1 on ebay.
thanks t0p

[Buick455]

@ buick455 why wouldn't you just have an external 8 pin socket, then you can just pop the chip out and reprogram it and put it back in. much cheaper... i bought like 50 sockets for $1 on ebay.
thanks t0p

well i thought about that in the begining.. i was going to install it like spitfire (donw below the batts) but i really didnt want it to be visible. i had it installed with the socket inside but to flash i had to open it. i have had this controller open and closed about 20 times, enough was enough, lol.. oh and its spiffy :P

[t0pP8uZz]

You should drop it to like 5 modes and add a jitter mode, rewiring the leds would be a good idea... Greatwork
@ buick455 why wouldn't you just have an external 8 pin socket, then you can just pop the chip out and reprogram it and put it back in. much cheaper... i bought like 50 sockets for $1 on ebay.
thanks t0p

Can you explain this jitter mod?

Yes i plan on updatin quite a bit. Speeds will be refined, Bugs will be fixed, LED's will be swapped, Maybe faster mode changing using some other configuration of buttons.

Anything else you guys would like to see?

[Squeck]

Here are my ideas:

1. MW2 jitter mode. That would be amazing, but as far as i know there are no pins left on the pic. you could remove left trigger, maybe making two versions. The jitter mode basically shoots,then double-taps the Y button so it simulates weapon change and then it shoots again and so on, making weapons like famas or m16a4 fully auto. You can see an example here. Call Of Duty Mw2: Jitter Mod*Controller*

2. Quicker mode changing: as far as i know it's 3 seconds, it's too much, i'd make it of a second or so.

Thank you t0p for your hard work, can't wait for the next update. And sorry for my english i'm sure there are mistakes here and there lol

[t0pP8uZz]

Yeah, That could be a possible update in 00.3. I would have to remove left trigger RF. or a LED indication. Seperate HEX would be good for this, a modded t0pfire for COD.

[Buick455]

jitter mod looks spaztastic, deff get your a$$ busted by your buddies though, lol.. i think it would be a whole other mod in itself considering we were out of outputs unless we ditch "Dual/Akimbo" which i like for codmw2 and i know the halo ppl will be like "ummm, wtf"..

this is an interesting riddle for you t0p, good luck.. with press and hold to enter prog mode, press hold for 3sec to change modes, press quick to turn on/off; its gonna get confusing quick, lol.. theres only so much you can do with 2 inputs...

I honestly dont think there is a way to have an all around perfect setup to please everyone and each game. like halo & mw2 screws ya out of an output/input pin (not that i would want to see a third tact sticking out of my controller  ). In hazers thread ( https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34961.0.html ) i like the D option also, it sounds alot like robbo3's 3 mode, it would have to be setup so default speed is all around perfect for couple of games. I’m sure you will think of something.

[tomcat]

@t0p... how about a sleeper, just straight up like hazer's, but 5 modes jitter can be enable using pin 5... Then you can keep akimbo and jitter. This actually shouldn't be too hard considering the work you did with all of the user programmable stuff. Tweaking the jitter may be difficult though, you may need different modes for semi-autos and burst fire weapons. that one you posted wasnt very impressive check this one =
skip ahead to the striker and the AA12 it actually quite ridiculous its so fast Call of Duty MW2 Rapid Fire Mod - customodding.comh

[psyko_chewbacca]

Hi, I'm new here and I really like t0pfire!!! I've installed it to a couple of friends controllers and everybody is very pleased.

About the jitter stuff, would it be possible to simply leave the t0pfire mod as it is and maybe install a second PIC, like an addon to t0pfire, that would take care of the jitter trick?

I mean you could wire one of the input of the new PIC to one of the right LED output of the t0pfire PIC. That way the jitter PC could know when the rapid fire is ON on the right trigger and then apply it's magic acordingly! You could then wire one input to the right trigger to sync with the firing pulse the t0pfire PIC emits( of course the user have to select the right rapid fire mode to make it work 100%) and one input on the sync button to turn ON/OFF the jitter function(or use another tactile switch but 3 switches could make it confusing while in game).

The way I figure it out you could use the 3rd LED on the controller to emit 3 short blink when jitter is on and 4 or 5 blinks when it's OFF(maybe another combinaison of blinking might be better). I think when using the jitter trick, people wont use rapid fire on the left triger.

Of course one of the output should be wired to the Y button.

It's just something I tought like that. Maybe someone has a better idea and could refine the concept!

[Modded Matt]

lol, jitter mod is a gimmick, it was started to get around the last cap for cod4. it  severly decreases accuracy and disoriants the user. not worth the waste of time IMO

[Hazer]

Agreed. Its a crap mod that has no place in real gameplay. It also involves soldering to a via, and that should be reserved for macros, not this jitter junk. Save the effort for a mod that lets you program your own macros, and then you can just make the jitter mod yourself with programmable macros instead. That way your not wasting effort on a dedicated feature like this.

[t0pP8uZz]

Yeah i kinda agree with matt and Hazer.

XMMC, or a low level version of XMMC will support all of this.

Maybe ill add it though depending on how many people want to see it added.

[Squeck]

I discovered that mode 3 (fast) is a lot slower than mode 2 and mode 1 in modern warfare 2 (using FAL).
Maybe it's just the game capping it, i don't know

[t0pP8uZz]

Yeah certain games will appear to be slowing because of capping,

[crazy-modder]

Well i know it might sound kinda pointless but its cool to do it just because I can, but im working on a controller that uses 3 12f683, ya some may say a waste but idc.  Im using topfire on one, led fader on another, and jitter on the last.  I will post pictures in about a week or so.  Well anyways this message kind of applys to psycho, ya jitter is a crap mod but o well.  It will be cool to see a 3 in 1 mod.  If you do plan to use 2 pics, i would not suggest having them all wired up to your little 0603s,  install a couple extra 3mm leds on the shell.  It will look cool.

[t0pP8uZz]

I support any type of controller mod using my code.

spurgurgle has a simular controller hes working on, i just need to pull my weight and finish these 'secret' projects.

[tomcat]

OOOOhhhh "secret" OOOOhhhh