Internal charge kit and external pic socket.

[radddogg]

Check out my latest mod I just completed.



Looks like a normal controller with a play and charge kit.

But flip it over and you see its in the shell of a wired controller (batteries relocated to where the rumblepacks were)




Also you'll see the IC chip. Contrary to the norm I've fitted an external socket to allow easy removal of the chip so I can reprogram it with any new code releases in seconds.




Lastly you can see where the wire used to come out I have fitted the tactile switch for easy switching and programming of the rapid fire modes.

Let me know what you think.

[Phantom]

looks good, post up some internal pics! you used the microsoft play n charge battery right?

[radddogg]

looks good, post up some internal pics! you used the microsoft play n charge battery right?

Yes, but I'm going to look into some alternative batteries and charging inputs.
Post Merge: August 17, 2010, 04:18:03 PMOk, here's some more pictures







Works a treat, I've coded a chip for MW2 and one for WAW, just need some way of storing the chips when not in use.

[Phantom]

Ive been looking around for a while for a smaller battery and just ordered a 1/2 AA battery (3.6v 1200mAh) that should fit in the controller without taking out the rumble packs. The external socket is a good idea, I might do the same, but place it where you have put the tact switch.

[froggy]

You shouldve put like 3 pic sockets on the control wire them, and a put switch that lets u switch between pic1, pic2, pic3, so u could have 3 pics in the control, and all u have to do is move the switch to 1,2, or 3

[radddogg]

You shouldve put like 3 pic sockets on the control wire them, and a put switch that lets u switch between pic1, pic2, pic3, so u could have 3 pics in the control, and all u have to do is move the switch to 1,2, or 3

hmmm, interesting, how would that work then? Only switch the pic power?

[RawryP]

I did this the other week, except went for unofficial batt's as i wanted a dc jack to fill the hole where the wire used to be on the shell. Then I used liquid fibreglass to fill it all up then sprayed the whole thing. I've sold it now though. :/
Also, I only used one 3.7v battery as I wanted to keep some of the rumble.

[Monk3y]

Nice job man, it's nice to have the wirelessness on the wired controllers, wired controllers feel much better but I hate the wire always being in the way. Very kool mod.

[radddogg]

I've been working on getting it working while retaining both rumble packs, I'll post some pics up tomorrow. Looks 
Post Merge: August 19, 2010, 04:36:39 AMTried out some different battery options and I can fit AAAs in and retain the rumble packs.
Needed a bit of trimming but it fits.

I just need to work out how to make a USB charging circuit :? Any tips?

[RawryP]

I just need to work out how to make a USB charging circuit :? Any tips?

You mean via PnC or a jack?

[radddogg]

You mean via PnC or a jack?

Via jack or mini usb recepticle. Like most phones do. There's another guy who has donr similar in this forum but its not clear how he's done it.

[FOOKz™]

If you want to charge with a USB plug you will have to convert 5 Volts from the USB to the voltage rating of your batteries 3 Volts...

You do this with a zener diode voltage regulator

[RawryP]

Via jack or mini usb recepticle. Like most phones do. There's another guy who has donr similar in this forum but its not clear how he's done it.

When I used a jack I just found the positive and ground pins of the jack and connected them to the battery, with a zener diode and resistor beween the jack and batt on the positive wire to correct the current.
After that I just soldered another wire to each side of the battery and soldered them in the holes where the springs used to be, seems as I wasn't using PnC.

[radddogg]

Latest update



Multi-coloured SMT 0603 LEDs and PS3 thumb grips

Having a bit of trouble with the USB charging method. I got a usb battery charger, removed the usb and battery contacts then soldered wires to a mini usb recepticle and to the batteries and nothing. The batteries charge separately and have separate LEDs for charging but I'm getting nothing. Any ideas?

[RawryP]

Having a bit of trouble with the USB charging method. I got a usb battery charger, removed the usb and battery contacts then soldered wires to a mini usb recepticle and to the batteries and nothing. The batteries charge separately and have separate LEDs for charging but I'm getting nothing. Any ideas?

Hmmm. Can't see anything wrong by the pic. And if it's charging then the wiring to the batteries should be right.
Umm. Have you tried giving the batteries a full charge before turning on controller? Or playing with the cable plugged in? When mine got low it'd wait til zero power then shut off suddenly, not like normal batteries. Maybe you're on low power.
I know it's not much to go by, soz. But I can't think of anything else.

[DubbedTheBeast]

can you post the circuits for the charger regulator?

[radddogg]

can you post the circuits for the charger regulator?

Hope that helps

[DubbedTheBeast]

to me it looks like you have wired everything correct. the only thing left to question is if you have wired it to the mini usb female correctly. try to wire the charger pcb to the mic power supplies inside of your controller. sense we know you can use those for a charge source you should get a positive response which will mean you should take a closer look at your usb connection. on the other hand if the charge circuit you are using does not allow enough power to go through you may not be getting enough power to charge the batteries; or the other way around you could be using too much power to the charger which will cause the diodes to allow reverse current.

do you know what the input and output should be for the charger?

[radddogg]

to me it looks like you have wired everything correct. the only thing left to question is if you have wired it to the mini usb female correctly. try to wire the charger pcb to the mic power supplies inside of your controller. sense we know you can use those for a charge source you should get a positive response which will mean you should take a closer look at your usb connection. on the other hand if the charge circuit you are using does not allow enough power to go through you may not be getting enough power to charge the batteries; or the other way around you could be using too much power to the charger which will cause the diodes to allow reverse current.

do you know what the input and output should be for the charger?

I think you may be onto something. When I got the pin outs off google they would have been male so would be opposite. Where's the facepalm smiley? Its 5v input and 1.2v output at 200mah from memory. Is this gonna be ok for charging during gameplay?

Next problem is the A button has stopped working

[DubbedTheBeast]

well that could be a very serious problem when you reverse the polarity  . but it is easy to fix. also if any of your buttons are failing it wont be because of how you are charging it(unless there is not enough power) you have a short somewhere in you controller. sometimes even when it is just a wire next to another you can get a short. having a battery under the "A" test points could cause a short. try to move that a little further away to separate them if you can't see anything obvious.

[radddogg]

I've tried it with the PCB out of the case and it just wasn't having it. I've had to s;wap to another PCB so gonna have to do the ROL again. I'm gonna have nightmare about this controller. 

[DubbedTheBeast]

you will have to remember that this is a pretty extensive mod considering you are completely changing the power source of the controller. there are going to be tons of small things that you don't realize the first time around. just keep at it, you'll figure it out.
Post Merge: August 20, 2010, 07:00:24 PMon second thought lets back up a little. ill just dump a few questions on you so that i can better understand what you are using and how the problem comes up.

what are you using to successfully charge the batteries?(and the voltage values)
how do you know they are or are not charging in the desired manner?
where are you soldering the supply to the controller?
do you have anything else wired to the controller? (RF mod or extra LEDs)
will the batteries power the controller for all normal uses when you are not using the added charging unit?

[radddogg]

Its ok I think its sorted now.

If I used the charger to charge each battery separately then one of them would not charge and returned a 0v response on the multimeter. I bridged them over one charge output and it is working now, however the charge rate will obviously be slower. I soldered the supply direct to the batteries. There is a RF mod, thats what the external PIC is for.

[RawryP]

Glad it's working now, you should use some fibreglass or body filler where the tact is to make it all flush.

[DubbedTheBeast]

looks great

[radddogg]

Glad it's working now, you should use some fibreglass or body filler where the tact is to make it all flush.

Yeah I plan to smooth that over as it's the only think ruining the appearance.

It's still not spot on though. First the left trigger wasn't working, replaced it and resoldered and thats working but now the guide button isn't working!!! Grrrrr

[DubbedTheBeast]

actually how do you plan to sync the controller in the future?

[radddogg]

Yeah I plan to smooth that over as it's the only think ruining the appearance.

It's still not spot on though. First the left trigger wasn't working, replaced it and resoldered and thats working but now the guide button isn't working!!! Grrrrr

Sorted it now, there was a wire under the rubber.
Post Merge: August 21, 2010, 04:17:38 PM

actually how do you plan to sync the controller in the future?

Check the pics again, there is a tiny hole to push a paperclip through.

[DubbedTheBeast]

ah i see. why not replace that tact switch with a longer one in the top? you should be able to use just any tact switch to put in its place or even just relocate it.

[radddogg]

ah i see. why not replace that tact switch with a longer one in the top? you should be able to use just any tact switch to put in its place or even just relocate it.

I'm not sure what you mean? Are you still talking about the sync button? If so it wouldn't be used often enough to need a new button.