Old school back with a 360 slim. Lost touch with mods and flash need help

[The End of A Heartache]

Is there a tutorial for installing the CoolRunner ver C to the corona 4gb? I am using the one Rodent posted and its only for the trinity. They are sort of similar but Have few different tap points. I can not seem to find FT4R2 tap point for the ground on the Corona board.

[Gizmo613]

Post Pictures Of Your board

[The End of A Heartache]

Okie so this is what I have so far


I got the 48Mhz ceramic Oscillator in today (Yes its bigger then I expected)


I went ahead and number the pin out on the Oscillator starting with 1(circle on the top end or the pointed end is 1) and using the image by Rodent going from there.


Soldering station with 348 Celsius temp control solder pencil. I am using a m90 SMD solder tip.


Btw I slide the Oscillator in a heat sink as to sleeve it and keep it from shorting out anything on the board. I used my 30 gauge solid copper wire.


I did as rodent added on the corona and bridged R2C7 and R2C6 so I can use the tap point for E and F



From here I tried looking for FT4R2 tap point (since he indicated it on the trinity board)


But I  do not see it on my corona board.


Okie I shut down my solder station and went on my desktop and did a little search and found another alternative to the TP for CPU_RST


They say to also use FT3T10 as a RST TP

[Gizmo613]

need better close up of your boards pic, use the macro function if your camera support it. use point c5r11 for cpu rst. and another thing, you will need the post fix adapter for the corona v4 motherboards. take a picture of the upside cpu chip area, we can see if you need the post fix adapter. pretty sure you do since its a v4 corona.

[The End of A Heartache]

need better close up of your boards pic, use the macro function if your camera support it. use point c5r11 for cpu rst. and another thing, you will need the post fix adapter for the corona v4 motherboards. take a picture of the upside cpu chip area, we can see if you need the post fix adapter. pretty sure you do since its a v4 corona.

Sorry I don't have a camera with that feature or function. Anyways here is a picture of the CPU chip area

yes its a v4 version


I thought the Post out chip is just to have the RGH permanent as Rodent said on his tutorial

[Gizmo613]

You Still Need Post Out As The Point You Connected The Yellow Wire To, Deosnt Connect To Anything Topside. You Will Need Post Out So The Glitcher Knows When To Glitch The Cpu.

[The End of A Heartache]

You Still Need Post Out As The Point You Connected The Yellow Wire To, Deosnt Connect To Anything Topside. You Will Need Post Out So The Glitcher Knows When To Glitch The Cpu.

Ohhhh okie, yeah was wondering where to connect the yellow wire to. Okie then I'll have to look for the post out and order it for the v4 corona lol

[Gizmo613]

Vgcrepairs Baby!!

[The End of A Heartache]

Vgcrepairs Baby!!

If only I can "like" that post haha

[Rodent]

Use the blue wire you will have better results rather then that stupid low loss cable

[The End of A Heartache]

Use the blue wire you will have better results rather then that stupid low loss cable

Thanks Rodent I will do that now.

[Rodent]

just from my experience on phat and slims seems to boot alot better make sure you keep it away from the green piece with the red wire wrapped around it
showin this pic

[snowcolt17]

just from my experience on phat and slims seems to boot alot better make sure you keep it away from the green piece with the red wire wrapped around it
showin this pic

think that green piece witht he red wire is called a inductor

[Rodent]

think that green piece witht he red wire is called a inductor

yea I know was busy.  couldnt think at the time i posted

[The End of A Heartache]

Lol, I just bought the post out today So i guess by saturday if not monday I should be getting it. Don't worry Rodent I didn't attach anything to the coil inductor.  I have everything standing by as we speak till I get that v3/v4 post out for my corona. I do like how quick VGC repair delivers to bad most of their stock is out on some of the tools.

Saving up for the final part, getting the xkey lol

Just check my order... I might have gotten the wrong kind... I got the    TX corona Postfix adapter. Is that the same thing as the post out? From what I read on the description I don't need to solder underside it fits topside around the APU for v3/v4 without post out.

[Gizmo613]

it is basically a qsb that has a pogo pin that will "poke" the solder ball connection under the cgpu. this will provide you with a post out since there isn't any trace for it on the v4 coronas.

Reason vgc is almost always out of stock is because of the item popularity and their great customer service.

[The End of A Heartache]

it is basically a qsb that has a pogo pin that will "poke" the solder ball connection under the cgpu. this will provide you with a post out since there isn't any trace for it on the v4 coronas.

Reason vgc is almost always out of stock is because of the item popularity and their great customer service.

Ok that is great so I guess I got the right post out QSB and yes I like a store with that kind of a sign even when it some times suck to have what I need sold out lol for the moment.

[The End of A Heartache]

So I got the post out today and fit just right. Now the question is do I need to solder the points on the post out before I finish up?

[Gizmo613]

Solder The Yellow Wire To The Post 1 pad

[The End of A Heartache]

Solder The Yellow Wire To The Post 1 pad

Thanks got it, Got real issue where to connect 3v3, E & F... i jumped R2C7 and R2C6 for E/F but no Idea which one goes. Then 3V3 goes over F as stated on Rodent tutorial

[Gizmo613]

load up jrunner and under the image tab look under coolrunner slim>> corona wire install. it tells you all the points to sold too

[The End of A Heartache]

load up jrunner and under the image tab look under coolrunner slim>> corona wire install. it tells you all the points to sold too

Thanks I am downloading it right now will thank off to have some enchiladas with the fam. Thank you so much Gizmo a great big help and Rodent to thank you two for the help

Well I don't know if this is right or not

Using the tutorial used by rodent and the one given out by Jrunner


I notice the Header point for E/F isn't the same off the one on Jrunner or Rodent but I rolled with it


I might have to shorten the line to E and the one to CPU_RST



Well once everything is connected all I get is a red light no flash its sold on



Once running Jrunner


Detecting 4gb corona and trying to read this is what I get


Then once done this is what comes out


After that I don't get a .bin or .ecc file :/ did I wire it wrong... Might be something with my OS or maybe something with how it is wired.

I tried is on phat and slim still making sure CR is set to NOR and corona  is set to R/W. I checked my QSB for any bridge and I check my wiring.

[Gizmo613]

did you flash the coolrunner with the corona timing files?
did you CREATE a ecc (if you are on a dash lower than 15572)
or write the pre configured ecc?

[The End of A Heartache]

did you flash the coolrunner with the corona timing files?
did you CREATE a ecc (if you are on a dash lower than 15572)
or write the pre configured ecc?

Flash the CR? How am I suppose to do that :o

I didn't create a Ecc and my dash is 16203

Am I suppose to do this things before trying to extract the NAND lol

[Gizmo613]

i am going to assume you didnt buy a jr programmer or a nand x.

you will need that to program the coolrunner with the timing file. see the option to flash coolrunner??

After you have dumped the nand(since you are on the new dash) the create ecc should be greyed out and the write ecc should an asterisk * on it.

[The End of A Heartache]

i am going to assume you didnt buy a jr programmer or a nand x.

you will need that to program the coolrunner with the timing file. see the option to flash coolrunner??

After you have dumped the nand(since you are on the new dash) the create ecc should be greyed out and the write ecc should an asterisk * on it.

*sigh* lol is there anything else I will need to buy LMAO. I didn't know I needed either one hahaha I just thought it was straightforward since from what I read it suppose to be but I guess I need more things

Wow so I guess my price list for the xkey is getting smaller and smaller hahahaha well I guess I will need to flash CR

TO VGC REPAIR ^(O.O)>

[Phantom]

you should still be able to dump the NAND even without the timing file flashed to the Coolrunner. look over the pads on the QSB, you should be getting a nanddump.bin file in the output folder

[Rodent]

I notice the Header point for E/F isn't the same off the one on Jrunner or Rodent but I rolled with it

the Header points are different from corona and Trinity  so make sure you have the right pics when you look at my tutorial or on j-runner. when installing your nand x , Jr programmer or other type of usb nand reader

[The End of A Heartache]

you should still be able to dump the NAND even without the timing file flashed to the Coolrunner. look over the pads on the QSB, you should be getting a nanddump.bin file in the output folder

Problem I am not getting any activation light on the readout only in power. I also notice with the Micro SD to SD adapter for the card reader I get power for 5 minute then it shut off till I pull it out and push it back in. In jrunner when using a micro SD to USB adapter it reads out as "Physical drive 1" but with 0Mb even if the micro SD adapter is out of the USB unit. I thought it was because I was on my HP laptop with windows 8 x64. But I tried it on my Windows7 x64 desktop with the same issue. I have a built in card reader with micro SD slot. I got the card reader from eBay for under $15.

the Header points are different from corona and Trinity  so make sure you have the right pics when you look at my tutorial or on j-runner. when installing your nand x , Jr programmer or other type of usb nand reader

Issue is neither you or Jrunner has the Pic for the Corona 4gb board. I had to guess and assume for the 3v3, E and F tap point. :/ So I have no Idea what point goes where. From your tutorial I bridged R2C7 and R2C6 so I can access E and F and from both your and Jrunner 3v3 goes over F. I am not sure if R2C7 is F or E lol XD

[Gizmo613]

huy...... the only main difference between the trinity and corona boards is the nand chip and the hana chip. trinity has both the normal 16mb and hana chip. the corona has the variation in nand chips as well as the normal 16mb chip. also the corona does not have the hana chip. other than that and the missing post out traces, the install points should be the same.

stop trying to figure out the which point belongs to which for the nand-x or jrp. you need the 4gb r/w kit for the 4 gb corona.

also the reason you are not seeing the glitch(green) light blinking, its simple. you dont have the coolrunner programmed with the timing files. as is without programming it, it is blank. thats why theres only a red light.
check r2c10 and make sure there is a resistor there, if not, bridge it.

the r/w kit is picky on which card reader you use. you have to try out as many as you need until you find one that works.
Also, do not write the ecc to the console until you can confirm you have a complete nand dump of your console.

watch this video [REVIEW] Corona 4GB NAND Reader QSB Kit