Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 322437 times)

RDC · « **Reply #300 on:** October 10, 2020, 04:34:37 PM »

J1, J2 is a 4-176891-4

J5, J6 is a 4-175630-4

Brian 503 · « **Reply #301 on:** March 18, 2021, 03:36:12 PM »

Hey RDC, I need to relocate the guide led on this model of controller. My question is what side of D27 is the cathode? Is it the side where it does a short run from the j2/j6 header "pin#6"to the first D27 connection, Or is the cathode on the other side "after going from j2/j6 past first connection on D27 making it the other side of the d27 connection? Just want to make sure I solder on the right side of that d27 connection so my guide button powers up on power on.

RDC · « **Reply #302 on:** March 18, 2021, 04:04:06 PM »

D27 has nothing to do with the Guide LED.

Anode of D27 goes to J2p6, Cathode goes to the Guide button.

The banded side of the Diode is the Cathode.

Anode -[ | ]- Cathode

Brian 503 · « **Reply #303 on:** March 18, 2021, 06:06:53 PM »

The controller I have replaced the stock guide led with a multicolored one hooked to a flex pcb. I made a basic 0603 and led pcb to hook up to operate like stock. What connections do I need to hit to make this work. I need a stock led for my mod chip so it can communicate to me what mode I'm in

This is the flex board to the rainbow led guide kit. Vikingdigital.com sweated the original led off so this flex PCB would rest flat on the guide button location.

This is my old mod chip. The D+ goes to the led on the controller to tell it to flash the led the amount of times for what mode I'm in. "Heres where the led on my mod chip goes" (Its sethmods free 12lf1822 microchips).

And here is my makeshift new guide led light.

I'm just trying to figure out how I'm supposed to make this all work out.

RDC · « **Reply #304 on:** March 18, 2021, 06:46:50 PM »

If the chip went directly to the LED then just wire up the new LED the same way, Cathode to the chip and Anode to 3.3v thru the appropriate Resistor.

Brian 503 · « **Reply #305 on:** March 18, 2021, 07:08:52 PM »

Thank u so much.

Brian 503 · « **Reply #306 on:** March 18, 2021, 07:36:40 PM »

So 5he green led used 3v to 3.2v. Do I need a resistor? Isn't the hot line a 3.3v sourse? Just curious,I have a bunch of smd resistors just need to know what voltage I'm pulling from to keep it under 3.2v

RDC · « **Reply #307 on:** March 18, 2021, 07:46:40 PM »

No idea what the 'hot line' is. The stock LED uses 3.5v for it's source and to drive the Rumble motors, while the rest of the controller runs off the 3.3v source. There should at least be a little Resistance in there to limit the current, 10ohms or so if the LED is rated for the same voltage as the source, any more Resistance will just make it dimmer as it will let less current get to the LED.

Brian 503 · « **Reply #308 on:** March 18, 2021, 08:38:26 PM »

Did what u said and everything is working beautifully. Thank u for troubleshooting everything for me. Your always to kind, thanks a million.

RDC · « **Reply #309 on:** March 18, 2021, 09:25:08 PM »

Welcome.

LlamaJuice · « **Reply #310 on:** April 20, 2021, 09:20:08 AM »

I made an account here to post saying how helpful this thread was for me. I used this thread to revive an old metal PS1 era DDR pad. I'm no professional, but I was stoked that I was able to build this thing thanks to y'all. And I'm stoked to get to stomp some more arrows again! Thanks a ton for your help everyone.

r4dius · « **Reply #311 on:** April 28, 2021, 04:55:30 PM »

Hi, I'm looking for replacement magnets for a broken controller, do you guys know about the magnetic values of the original ones or any known replacements ?

RDC · « **Reply #312 on:** April 29, 2021, 07:15:43 PM »

No idea. Best to pick them up from another parts controller so things match up, plenty of those things around. They can be installed backwards, so if the Trigger doesn't work just flip the magnet over and then it should.

morih94 · « **Reply #313 on:** August 10, 2021, 04:52:28 AM »

Hey the legend @rdc, i have a controller that works perfectly with USB but on battery it turns of after 2 blinks unless i give 3.2v with power source or so then it wont turns off and works perfectly,
i took out u1 and changed half of board battery power trace components and still same story,
i wonder if there is something that you can help me with your exprience

RDC · « **Reply #314 on:** August 10, 2021, 08:58:34 AM »

Yeah, none of that makes any sense grammatically, so I have no real idea what the exact issues is or what you have done there.

If the thing works on USB then U1, U2 and U3 on the Power Board are all fine. All U1 does is step down the USB 5v to 3v for U2 and U3 to use anyway.

I have no idea where you are injecting this 3.2v power source to make the controller 'work' so for all I know you have dead AA batteries or don't have them connected in series to the AA posts.

First thing to try is plug it up over USB and see if the Guide button works. If the Guide button does not work, then the issues is most likely around that circuit, D27, Q8, Q9 and everything in between, because if Guide does not work then it can not turn the controller on over AA power. If the Guide button does work on USB, then there are only a handful of components between the AA + post and U2/U3 for that to work. L1 is the main thing that can get knocked off the board, also D26, then the PCB can also crack around L1 breaking a trace and causing it to not work on batteries.

rafammbass · « **Reply #315 on:** August 17, 2021, 09:40:42 AM »

Quote from: RDC on May 21, 2016, 12:55:52 PM

It's a run of the mill PNP Transistor, MMBT3906.

Anyone has a spare Q8? I am having trouble trying to find it. Many thanks!

ChrisJavier · « **Reply #316 on:** August 17, 2021, 10:22:50 AM »

The RB is unresponsive. I've replaced the switch and the problem persists. I've check continuity of the traces and it all checks out. I've noticed that there's no 3.3v on neither of the pins and the D3 appears to be OL. Is that diode the issue?

RDC · « **Reply #317 on:** August 17, 2021, 03:53:39 PM »

One of those RB leads is ground, so you're not going to get 3.3v on that one.

If D3 was shorted then RB would act pressed all of the time. You didn't specify what unresponsive meant, so can't say one way or the other there.

If RB acts pressed all of the time, it could be D3, C29 or a solder bridge at J2 between pins 3 and 5.

If D3 and C29 are not shorted, and all the traces and connector on the top board are good, then all that is left are the traces on the bottom board, J6p5 needs resoldered or replaced, U1p3 needs resoldered, or U1 is bad.

ChrisJavier · « **Reply #318 on:** August 20, 2021, 04:34:07 PM »

Fixed it by reflowing d3 and the cap right next to it. But now both triggers act as if they are pressed al the time. Sometimes they stop being pressed, but act unresponsive. Any ideas?

EDIT: It had a solder blob shorting R38 and R40 to each other. Fixed!

morih94 · « **Reply #319 on:** September 06, 2021, 05:44:09 AM »

Quote from: RDC on August 10, 2021, 08:58:34 AM

Yeah, none of that makes any sense grammatically, so I have no real idea what the exact issues is or what you have done there.

If the thing works on USB then U1, U2 and U3 on the Power Board are all fine. All U1 does is step down the USB 5v to 3v for U2 and U3 to use anyway.

I have no idea where you are injecting this 3.2v power source to make the controller 'work' so for all I know you have dead AA batteries or don't have them connected in series to the AA posts.

First thing to try is plug it up over USB and see if the Guide button works. If the Guide button does not work, then the issues is most likely around that circuit, D27, Q8, Q9 and everything in between, because if Guide does not work then it can not turn the controller on over AA power. If the Guide button does work on USB, then there are only a handful of components between the AA + post and U2/U3 for that to work. L1 is the main thing that can get knocked off the board, also D26, then the PCB can also crack around L1 breaking a trace and causing it to not work on batteries.

Thanks for replying :-) guide button works, it turns on the controller lemme explain, so all i meant is that the battery has maximum of 3v input, instead of using batteries i connect power source to its pins and as long as the input voltage is above 3.2v controller works wireless , anything below 3.2v on battery pins (which normally work with 2.1v to 3v or sth around it) makes controller turn on ,but it turns off after 2 blinks ,so basically i can't use controller with batteries .
do you have anything in mind that might help? gonna check out L1 trace and change the components

RDC · « **Reply #320 on:** September 06, 2021, 07:02:57 AM »

Interesting, in that case I'd look on the MCU board and see if R43 and R44 are still in spec and make sure that C39 isn't shorted or dragging that down.

morih94 · « **Reply #321 on:** September 07, 2021, 08:20:43 AM »

thanks RDC, got that controller fixed, D26 trace was not connected to Q7's pin, bridged it on board and it works like a charm now.

RDC · « **Reply #322 on:** September 07, 2021, 10:11:49 AM »

D26 does not connect to Q7. D26 goes to the Base of Q9. If that D26/Q9 connection is broken, then the controller will not work on battery power at all unless the Guide button is held in.

BogdanBoner · « **Reply #323 on:** October 03, 2021, 08:45:36 AM »

Hey Guyz, pleas tell me what is the capacitor C22 and C23 Values?

BogdanBoner · « **Reply #324 on:** October 05, 2021, 05:52:39 AM »

Could anyone help me? Please

RDC · « **Reply #325 on:** October 05, 2021, 07:11:20 AM »

Both the top and bottom boards each have a C22 and C23. You could remove all 4 of them and it's not going to make a lick of noticeable difference though.

BogdanBoner · « **Reply #326 on:** October 05, 2021, 07:49:12 AM »

thanks

H1tm4n · « **Reply #327 on:** March 13, 2022, 04:18:19 AM »

I got my hands on a controller that had a problem with its LT, so the guy (no electric knowledge) just removed the components using a screwdriver, thinking he could at least make it not functional instead of being pressed all the time.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4dpzobswp68s4g0/20220311_175337.jpg

Now I want to repair it and use it for myself, but I'm having trouble figuring out the capacitor values needed, as well as the package size.

So far what I found out:

Missing components:

U11 - A1304ELHLX-T hall sensor
C37 -
C38 -
R42 - same as R39? 100 ohm?

The package size for the resistor and capacitors is 0402 is what I'm guessing, but I might be wrong?

Thanks in advance!

RDC · « **Reply #328 on:** March 13, 2022, 07:15:16 AM »

Pretty sure that guy knows more about electronics than you do about hand tools, as any screwdriver, including the drink, would have made a mess of the pads, traces and board there.

U11 - Correct, same as U10
C37 - 1uF, same as C33, anything rated 6.3v or more is fine
C38 - 470nF, same as C36, again anything 6.3v up is good
R42 - Correct

All of the aforementioned components are 0402 sized.

H1tm4n · « **Reply #329 on:** March 13, 2022, 08:14:45 AM »

Quote from: RDC on March 13, 2022, 07:15:16 AM

Pretty sure that guy knows more about electronics than you do about hand tools, as any screwdriver, including the drink, would have made a mess of the pads, traces and board there.

U11 - Correct, same as U10
C37 - 1uF, same as C33, anything rated 6.3v or more is fine
C38 - 470nF, same as C36, again anything 6.3v up is good
R42 - Correct

All of the aforementioned components are 0402 sized.

Thanks again!

A screwdriver wouldn't be my first choice of removing components though

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 322437 times)