Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 322436 times)

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #270 on:** October 17, 2019, 09:21:41 AM »

Quote from: RDC on October 17, 2019, 08:26:55 AM

If there is voltage in and the Hall sensor is good then there should be voltage out.

VCC = ~1v measured with a DMM
OUT = ~0.11v measured with a DMM

The more you pull the trigger the lower the output goes. Not pulled measures around 0.11v, full pull measures ~0.01v

Heating with hotgun U9 region helped me.
Got good meandr at U9 leg and near Hall Sensor!

Before at leg was good, but near Sensor was very poor, decreased signal

Thanks you a lot RDC for your fast response!

RDC · « **Reply #271 on:** October 17, 2019, 11:13:53 AM »

Welcome.

al3cs · « **Reply #272 on:** November 09, 2019, 04:41:26 AM »

Hello guys.

I have an old controller that I bought a few years ago and didn't work. And since then I have got another one.
Now I've started to want to fix the old one that doesn't power on, not on batteries or usb cable.

I have tried to swap the boards between them, and on the old one the power board works with the mcu board from the new one, so I ended up thinking the old controller mcu board has something wrong since it didn't work with the power board from the new controller.
Can you please help me on guiding me on identifying what could be the problem.

Thank you.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #273 on:** November 09, 2019, 05:03:23 AM »

Quote from: al3cs on November 09, 2019, 04:41:26 AM

Hello guys.

I have an old controller that I bought a few years ago and didn't work. And since then I have got another one.
Now I've started to want to fix the old one that doesn't power on, not on batteries or usb cable.

I have tried to swap the boards between them, and on the old one the power board works with the mcu board from the new one, so I ended up thinking the old controller mcu board has something wrong since it didn't work with the power board from the new controller.
Can you please help me on guiding me on identifying what could be the problem.

Thank you.

Check fuse with multimeter on power board

RDC · « **Reply #274 on:** November 09, 2019, 05:28:42 AM »

@ZhenyaKa - There is no fuse on either of those boards.

@al3cs - First thing to check for on the bad MCU board would be to see if the 3.3v rail is shorted or not. A working controller will measure in the Megs when checking Resistance from the 3.3v to Ground and change as the caps on the board charge up. A really low fixed value would indicate an issue. Check for Resistance with the board unconnected from everything, no Power board connected.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #275 on:** November 09, 2019, 05:39:30 AM »

Quote from: RDC on November 09, 2019, 05:28:42 AM

@ZhenyaKa - There is no fuse on either of those boards.

As I remeber one time I have breaked this element. Adding wire did fix problem.

But cheaper to buy this pcb and ribbons too than to try to fix them.

But there are all different for jdm-001, jdm-030... etc

RDC · « **Reply #276 on:** November 09, 2019, 05:42:41 AM »

This is the XB1 1537 controller thread, it has no fuses, or DS4 boards in it, at all.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #277 on:** November 09, 2019, 05:46:37 AM »

Quote from: RDC on November 09, 2019, 05:42:41 AM

This is the XB1 1537 controller thread, it has no fuses, or DS4 boards in it, at all.

Oh! My silly head!!!

I'm not wake up yet!

Sorry!

RDC · « **Reply #278 on:** November 09, 2019, 05:49:26 AM »

No worries at all, it happens.

al3cs · « **Reply #279 on:** November 09, 2019, 10:07:25 PM »

Thank you @RDC. I will try and let you know.

al3cs · « **Reply #280 on:** November 09, 2019, 10:48:12 PM »

I have checked the values on the J6 connector and between pin 1 and pin 3 a have 4.5 megs and between pin 4 and pin 3 i get 6 megs, but a fixed value. But between test point 24 and 25 I get 10 K:(

RDC · « **Reply #281 on:** November 10, 2019, 03:31:06 AM »

TP25 is a pin off the MCU, it's not on the 3.3v rail, so that 10k you measure there is correct.

That measurement between pins 1 and 3 should be 55k, check that R43, R44 and C39 are still on the board or that there is no damage to that area. They are on the bottom side of the board under the Right Stick.

al3cs · « **Reply #282 on:** November 10, 2019, 07:25:23 AM »

The resistance between pin 1 and pin 3 is around 88 k, but it is not stable, it starts from 84 and goes to 88, where is starts to stop:(
The area of the resistances looks ok, but i will touch it up tomorrow . Thank you for the help.

nedmohm · « **Reply #283 on:** November 15, 2019, 05:18:36 AM »

Hello Mr RDC Greeting from me

i have problem with my old xbox one controller, i tried to replace the right analog but i've messed up and lose the soldering place and 1 transistor , please look at the picture that i attached and i circled the the problem, and now the right analog is in the right place but the left and right direction is not working at all, can you help me find the place that i need to jumper or connect please ?
thank you

RDC · « **Reply #284 on:** November 15, 2019, 06:51:53 AM »

C21 is just a Capacitor. You can leave it off the board and it will be fine with it missing.

Solder a small jumper wire as shown and it will restore the AN+ to the stick and you should be good to go.

nedmohm · « **Reply #285 on:** November 16, 2019, 08:35:14 PM »

Quote from: RDC on November 15, 2019, 06:51:53 AM

C21 is just a Capacitor. You can leave it off the board and it will be fine with it missing.

Solder a small jumper wire as shown and it will restore the AN+ to the stick and you should be good to go.

Really appreciate your help mr. It really work like a charm, thank you for your help

RDC · « **Reply #286 on:** November 16, 2019, 08:43:15 PM »

Welcome.

jvcr · « **Reply #287 on:** December 13, 2019, 03:55:02 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 06, 2016, 07:51:08 AM

Another thing you might try is to unplug the Power board from the MCU board and plug up the USB cable to it. It's not a very conclusive test, but if U1, U2 or U3 gets hot then, then you for sure have an issue on the Power board there as with it unplugged from the MCU board none of it should be working except U1, and it would only be lukewarm at best.

You are not right. When the "power board" is disconnected from the "MCU board" U2 and U3 continue to generate ~ 3V when the USB is connected to U1.

RDC · « **Reply #288 on:** December 13, 2019, 09:08:19 AM »

Where does it say in that post that U2 and U3 will generate no output? It doesn't. Working in that statement there means, oddly enough, doing work, aka has a load on it. Only U1 'works' with the boards unplugged as it powers U2 and U3, which oddly enough is also says in that post before the statement you consider to be incorrect. So yes they will be 'on' and U2 will have 3.5v out and U3 will have 3.3v out, but they are not doing any work. I never said they were turned off and in fact stated that U1 provides the rail for U2 and U3, so if U1 is on clearly U2 and U3 should be as well, but they are still doing no actual work, but yes they are on.

jvcr · « **Reply #289 on:** December 16, 2019, 03:39:40 AM »

Problem: the left analog stick pulls up and down (maybe in other directions) (Fig. 1). Dismantled the left stick (Fig. 2), the problem has not been fixed. When a conductive object (screwdriver, tweezers) touches the capacitors C24, C20 or C22 (Fig. 3), the position of the stick changes (later I removed these capacitors, the problem did not disappear). Accordingly, I assume that there is electromagnetic interference. Any ideas what to do? TP63 and TP64 track directly to the processor MCU, it is difficult to analyze. Thanks for replying to the previous post.
Fig.1:

Fig.2:

Fig.3:

jvcr · « **Reply #290 on:** December 16, 2019, 05:31:18 AM »

Quote from: ZhenyaKa on October 17, 2019, 08:18:35 AM

Ah! Thats clear now! Meander or sin there

I have one halfdead body now. Both trigger hasn't any respond. But voltages is okay. And signal lines to CPU is okay too.
When I bring close magnet signal output of sensor show 0. There are no any changes.
I resolder sensor to other PCB and it is okay.
Maybe generator is dead?

I checked them with multimeter only.

When the Hall sensor (U11) did not react, but at the same time the voltage was correctly formed on the Vout pin, I discovered a break between the Vout pin and the R42 resistor. I soldered the wire and it worked.

RDC · « **Reply #291 on:** December 16, 2019, 12:22:18 PM »

The sticks are voltage dividers, so they need to be installed and everything connected or the Axis lines will 'float' and behave erratically.

Reinstall a Stick and make sure things are all connected, couple of pads are torn up in there, then check the voltage on the leads of the POT to see if it's working.

1.8v | 0.9v | GND

The 0.9v is the Stick at center voltage and is the ideal voltage, it never will be exactly 0.9v but it should be close and change smoothly when you move the Stick around.

jvcr · « **Reply #292 on:** December 20, 2019, 04:42:15 AM »

I physically connected the leads of the potentiometer (new) with a wire to supply voltage and ground (left-right axis). Got better. The stick works properly in all directions. But when you press on the corner of the board axis "right-left" "float". At the same time, I measured the voltage on all legs of the potentiometer, it remains static: 1.8 | 0.9 | gnd.
Sometimes this manifests itself when you press the metal cover of the MCU.
ps before soldering wires, pressing the stick did not work either. After that, everything worked.
What are some ideas? thanks

https://youtu.be/mhsLliIlx9c

RDC · « **Reply #293 on:** December 20, 2019, 05:14:00 AM »

It looks more like it's going full right when pressed versus floating, which could mean the Ground is going open to the POT or the 1.8v is shorting to the center lead.

If the voltage on the POT does not change when pressing on the board and it acts up, then the PCB or a trace could have a crack, or a solder joint on the MCU or anywhere in that line. Putting that physical stress on the board, even a via could be causing it.

Best idea though, just don't press on the board.

Gigacube · « **Reply #294 on:** January 21, 2020, 02:07:45 PM »

Hey,
I have this XB1 controller 1537 with issues in the LT, i check the signal line and it is not broke(pin 3 of U11 to the MCU pin)
The ground of U11pin is ok and the source (pin 1) is ok, i notice that there is 1 resistor and 1 cap in serie with the signal line from pin 3 to the MCU, im supposing thah an issue with the resistor may cause this full signal in LT (cuz the cap is connectted to ground, i guess to filter the signal)
Do you know the value of these resistor R42 ?
I have my idea that is 10k omhs, but may be worng .

Gigacube · « **Reply #295 on:** January 21, 2020, 02:49:21 PM »

Ok ok ifoud the issue, it was that resistor, it's value seems to be 100 omhs and it was open in my XB1 controller thaths why i had full LT signal

jvcr · « **Reply #296 on:** January 22, 2020, 01:48:16 AM »

Quote from: RDC on December 20, 2019, 05:14:00 AM

It looks more like it's going full right when pressed versus floating, which could mean the Ground is going open to the POT or the 1.8v is shorting to the center lead.

If the voltage on the POT does not change when pressing on the board and it acts up, then the PCB or a trace could have a crack, or a solder joint on the MCU or anywhere in that line. Putting that physical stress on the board, even a via could be causing it.

Best idea though, just don't press on the board.

My story with this board continued. The problem has not disappeared. And since this problem could be due to the PCB or the MCU, I decided to warm the board with a hot air gun. An example of what I did here https://youtu.be/WEcH1D6AQuw?t=267 (this is not my video) as an example). My hot air gun settings: 318 degrees Celsius, the maximum blowing speed. I warmed for about one minute. I warmed in the area of the metal plate of the MCU with perforation. I wrapped the remaining sections of the board with foil. The problem has disappeared, but it is not known how much ...)

gremlins · « **Reply #297 on:** September 14, 2020, 02:50:06 PM »

I have been doing repairs on official controllers for a while, and have come across an issue or 2 in my time.

Since I cannot get schematics, its a pain to do moderate or difficult repairs, for example I have a pad a 1537 that does not power up its LED everything else works. I try another MCU board and the LED works, can anyone help with this issue?

RDC · « **Reply #298 on:** September 14, 2020, 03:17:54 PM »

The LED control signal comes from U1p94 (U1 pin number 94) on the MCU board, and goes to J6p2 before going to the Top board. Look for a broken trace between those spots or a bad solder joint at U1p94 or U1 could be bad on just that one pin.

owne3d · « **Reply #299 on:** October 10, 2020, 02:20:05 PM »

Hey it's me again, i wanted to ask if you know what that plastic connector is called the one connecting two pcb's.
I recently bought box full of controllers and it seems someone was unable to solder them properly(melted) so i am gonna change them myself except i cannot find them anywhere

News:

Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 322436 times)