Author Topic: DualShock 4 Controller PCB scans (Read 376236 times)

RDC · « **Reply #120 on:** January 04, 2018, 06:08:10 AM »

If you remove that carbon coating then the connections to the daughter board are pretty much ruined. While you probably could recoat them, it would be unreliable as there would be solder all over the copper and then new coating on top of that instead of on the copper. You would be better off just getting another controller after messing with that one.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #121 on:** February 18, 2018, 12:23:45 AM »

Hello.
Will anybody help me to identify 2 SMD elements on JDM-030 near touch button.

thanks in advance

RDC · « **Reply #122 on:** February 18, 2018, 05:45:35 AM »

The Transistor and it's BE Resistor look like they were never installed to begin with, which makes sense as the one missing Resistor on both boards that I have here is installed there on that board, which would make it act like that Transistor was just on all the time, so no need for it.

Both JDM-030 boards that I have on hand here look like this, but that doesn't mean there is another variation of the -030 that is supposed to be setup like that one you have there.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #123 on:** February 18, 2018, 08:38:32 PM »

Quote from: RDC on February 18, 2018, 05:45:35 AM

The Transistor and it's BE Resistor look like they were never installed to begin with, which makes sense as the one missing Resistor on both boards that I have here is installed there on that board, which would make it act like that Transistor was just on all the time, so no need for it.

Both JDM-030 boards that I have on hand here look like this, but that doesn't mean there is another variation of the -030 that is supposed to be setup like that one you have there.

Thanks a lot!.

My distant customer have dancing touch and he think that he smashed this elements.

At first I thought that places at his pcb are very clear.

Maybe 10 pin ribbon deglued from touch partialy and touch "dancing"

shr70 · « **Reply #124 on:** February 19, 2018, 10:25:14 AM »

Hi,

my controller (JDM001) does not charge any more. The Playstation always complains about the battery being low and then shuts off the controller. After opening the controller i figured out that the charge voltage is only 0.5V and the current only 16uA. Any idea what component could be defective?

I already checked all 0 Ohm fuses, but non of them were broken. I also have measured the voltages at different probe points.
Results:
green=1.8V
yellow=5.2V
red=3.3V

As those are common logic voltages they should be good, at least as far as I know.

I read in a previous post that the two resistors(blue) should be 150k with 1% tolerance. I measured them at 97k and 104k. Might those be the problem? I do not have any replacements at the moment and want to confirm that those can be the issue before buying new ones (Shipping is 7$ for 2 resistors).

Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #125 on:** February 19, 2018, 10:48:32 AM »

They are probably alright, as the value of them in circuit will not test correctly. On the controller I have here they both measure 101k and 100k while on the board.

The first thing to check would be the battery, as that JDM-001 has been around for awhile now and it's bound to have gone thru at least a few charge cycles.

Not sure where you're checking that charge voltage, as right across the battery terminals, while the USB cable is plugged in, is where that would be done, and if it's measuring 0.5v there then the controller wouldn't even turn on from the battery power alone.

shr70 · « **Reply #126 on:** February 19, 2018, 01:46:55 PM »

Hi,

I already replaced the battery, as that was my first guess. But the error persist. I measure the voltage across the battery terminal with the battery connected. The current was measured by soldering wires to the PCB battery connector and the battery and connecting the multimeter in series.

The controller won't turn on if its just battery. It will only turn on when plugged in through usb. It worked when I first replaced the battery, since it came precharged. But since it emptied and won't charge up again.

RDC · « **Reply #127 on:** February 19, 2018, 02:13:40 PM »

Hopefully the protection circuit in the battery pack has done it's job and that's why it's measuring that now.

That charge circuit in there is a bit of a mess. I started tracing all of that out years ago on the -001 and finally decided it wasn't worth it, as practically every part in there has 0 information on it.

If I were really curious about it though, I'd swap the PMIC, the BD9200 (QFN32) on the other side of the board. The -011 and -020 still use that same BD9200 chip, so it may not be too hard to find one for the swap.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #128 on:** February 19, 2018, 02:29:46 PM »

Quote from: shr70 on February 19, 2018, 01:46:55 PM

Hi,

I already replaced the battery, as that was my first guess. But the error persist. I measure the voltage across the battery terminal with the battery connected. The current was measured by soldering wires to the PCB battery connector and the battery and connecting the multimeter in series.

The controller won't turn on if its just battery. It will only turn on when plugged in through usb. It worked when I first replaced the battery, since it came precharged. But since it emptied and won't charge up again.

If you cant' find solution I think you can add cheap USB Li-Ion charger and connect it to 5V point.
Some like this:
https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/2-Micro-USB-5-1A-18650-TP4056/32836114063.html

RYCHUK · « **Reply #129 on:** April 01, 2018, 07:25:35 AM »

Hello sorry for my english but I have a problem with the value of capacitors in the picture if anyone could give them to me in advance, thank you

RDC · « **Reply #130 on:** April 02, 2018, 07:32:05 AM »

10uf, 0603
10pF, 0402

ControlAble · « **Reply #131 on:** June 04, 2018, 11:40:40 PM »

I wonder what the reason is for having a 100Hz switched 3.3V on 2L/2R? As opposed to a straight up divider between 3.3V and GND. Surely it can't be power savings else they would have done the same with the stick pots. Perhaps its in order to trigger an interrupt? I'm curious as to why Sony have decided to go this route with the triggers.

RDC · « **Reply #132 on:** June 05, 2018, 12:17:08 AM »

They did it on the DS3 controllers as well, and the XB1 controller Triggers also work in a similar fashion.

Power consumption is the most plausible option. Making the controller able to detect any of the easier mods done on the Triggers is also another option. You'd have to ask either of them for the exact reason though.

Frs_william · « **Reply #133 on:** June 10, 2018, 11:51:36 PM »

Hello, I'm new to the forums and I had a question, I've already modded a few controllers so I know somewhat how to solder and was wondering if anyone knew where the contact point is for the R3 on the jdm-001 board?

RDC · « **Reply #134 on:** June 11, 2018, 12:02:11 AM »

The R3 spots are the solder joints of that Tact switch. Those are the same for pretty much all versions. R3 uses 3.2v for the common connection, not Ground, so just use any 2 of the opposing connections for the new R3 button.

Frs_william · « **Reply #135 on:** June 11, 2018, 06:14:03 PM »

Thank you for the reply. So I would just have to solder a wire to each side from here then onto the button I'm going to use?

RDC · « **Reply #136 on:** June 11, 2018, 06:27:42 PM »

You have the R3 Tact and the Y-Axis POT circled.

The 4 solder joints there on the left side that are circled are the ones for the R3 Tact. Pick 2 of those to use for the new R3 button.

X O

O X

Frs_william · « **Reply #137 on:** June 11, 2018, 07:44:05 PM »

Alright I see, thank you very much! I really appreciate it.

HiImAi · « **Reply #138 on:** September 01, 2018, 12:30:22 AM »

Hi, can anyone tell me what the resistors circled in red are please? Thanks.

RDC · « **Reply #139 on:** September 01, 2018, 09:11:58 PM »

The Resistor, component circled on the left, is 1.5k

The component circled on the right is a Capacitor, it is just for decouling. You can leave it off, or toss in just about any value there from 1pf to 1uF and it'll still work the same.

saulveloz · « **Reply #140 on:** September 25, 2018, 11:51:48 PM »

hey guys when i was trying to change the joystick on a JDM-030 Controller i ripped the via from the Right Click
The bad: The click is now pressed all the time
The good: if i press B1 (se pictures) with my finger real hard it kinda works for a moment, hope someone help me

RDC · « **Reply #141 on:** September 26, 2018, 04:19:51 AM »

You need to clean up all of that solder mess at the B1 location for starters.

The wire at A2 is doing nothing, that spot just has 3.2v on it. If anything that should be jumpered up to the A1 spot.

I hope that little bit of trace on the top side of the board that was ripped up was cut off before the new stick was installed.

HiImAi · « **Reply #142 on:** October 03, 2018, 10:40:28 PM »

Quote from: RDC on September 01, 2018, 09:11:58 PM

The Resistor, component circled on the left, is 1.5k

The component circled on the right is a Capacitor, it is just for decouling. You can leave it off, or toss in just about any value there from 1pf to 1uF and it'll still work the same.

Awesome, thank you so much! I soldered on a 1.5k resistor and the USB data connection is working again. I took a closer look at the capacitor's location and it seems like there was nothing soldered there in the first place, so I left it off. Thank you for looking into it though!

AntarcticFrost · « **Reply #143 on:** October 29, 2018, 10:16:57 PM »

Ok guys! Desperate for help here. I am using the PS4 battery for another project, and literally for the life of me and my first born, i can not find what the ps4 controller battery pin head is called, so i cant order a ton of them..... please help me! i will legit paypal someone $20 to give me the name of it. and spoiler alert, it is not an XH2.54 (as i have already discovered)

RDC · « **Reply #144 on:** October 29, 2018, 10:58:13 PM »

You didn't specify the controller version you are looking for, as they changed it on the JDM-030 to a smaller one.

The XH2.54 is a JST connector, but it's a 2.54mm pitch (pitch = the spacing between the pins or leads measured center of one pin to the center of the next pin) and the DS4 connectors, while still JST, have a smaller pitch.

The JDM-020 and lower versions connector is the JST, 2mm pitch, PH series.

The JDM-030 and higher versions connector is the JST, 1.5mm pitch, ZH series.

You can take you pick of them at DigiKey, Mouser and the like.

Padilla · « **Reply #145 on:** November 14, 2018, 07:33:56 PM »

Hello everybody, I want to ask for a little of help. One friend gave me his old controller so I could fix and replace their sticks and their L's and R's. It is a JDM-011 and when I opened it the piece in the back of the board that has like an H with a dot popped out. I wanted to ask what is this part? I was thinking to just try to resolder it, but I wanted to know if there is posible to replace it in case it fell out because it is broken and with no use. Sorry for my bad English, it's not my native Language.

RDC · « **Reply #146 on:** November 14, 2018, 08:51:58 PM »

That part is an Inductor, and it must be on the board for the PMIC (Power Managment Intergrated Circuit) to work correctly.

If it is not broken, and the pads are still on the board, then you should be able to resolder it back on there. I'd have to see good pics of the part and the board to tell. Sometimes they can break off 'clean' and you will be able to repair it. If it has ripped off a pad from the board or the Inductor is damaged then it will be much harder to repair.

Padilla · « **Reply #147 on:** November 15, 2018, 11:51:57 AM »

Quote from: RDC on November 14, 2018, 08:51:58 PM

That part is an Inductor, and it must be on the board for the PMIC (Power Managment Intergrated Circuit) to work correctly.

If it is not broken, and the pads are still on the board, then you should be able to resolder it back on there. I'd have to see good pics of the part and the board to tell. Sometimes they can break off 'clean' and you will be able to repair it. If it has ripped off a pad from the board or the Inductor is damaged then it will be much harder to repair.

Thanks for answering so fast. Here are some pics of the part and the PCB.

RDC · « **Reply #148 on:** November 16, 2018, 04:09:26 PM »

The board looks alright, but one side of that Inductor does not.

You will need to take the soldering iron and try to re-tin the pads on the Inductor to see if they are still intact. If both pads are still on the Inductor, it would be best to take a meter and just Ohm out the thing, make sure it measures around 1ohm or so before installing it. If it measures open, then one of the small wires has come off and you would need to get another one. If that one is bad, then getting a replacement from another controller would be best.

FcknSoul · « **Reply #149 on:** December 14, 2018, 01:08:38 AM »

Hello. Can anyone please help. After i changed my left 3d analog (JDM 050) my l3 button stopped working. (All components of the new analog are fine). What i need to check? TY for replies.

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Author Topic: DualShock 4 Controller PCB scans (Read 376236 times)