Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 219878 times)

RDC · « **Reply #480 on:** April 22, 2021, 08:40:16 AM »

Correct.

Glaucio Henrique · « **Reply #481 on:** April 22, 2021, 12:05:14 PM »

I made the first option to return the original Button B to work and I didn?t succeed, the button still didn?t work

follow image of how I did https://ibb.co/rpCxzZG

RDC · « **Reply #482 on:** April 22, 2021, 02:12:19 PM »

Can't really make it out in that pic, but sure looks like what might be a damaged trace at the top spot there in your pic, the one close to LB1. Desolder all of that there, clean the board up with a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol and take another pic of it please.

Glaucio Henrique · « **Reply #483 on:** April 22, 2021, 02:52:47 PM »

yes, follow your guidance

https://ibb.co/hBz14pv
https://ibb.co/RChdQzn

RDC · « **Reply #484 on:** April 22, 2021, 02:59:24 PM »

I don't think you have enough of the green solder mask removed for that solder to be making connection to the via/trace under there yet. That solder was most likely just sticking to the mask and not making connection.

Scrape a little more, gently, and when you see shiny STOP, you've hit the copper and going any further will just be damaging things. Then get the solder and wire on there and it should work.

Glaucio Henrique · « **Reply #485 on:** April 22, 2021, 04:29:08 PM »

thank you very much, i will try again

if this procedure does not work, is there another possibility?

Glaucio Henrique · « **Reply #486 on:** April 23, 2021, 12:14:06 PM »

I did the procedure again according to your guidance I scraped until the copper arrived and made the jumper but unfortunately it didn't work.

Thank you very much for your attention

xavitofix · « **Reply #487 on:** May 11, 2021, 06:26:38 PM »

Hello everyone,

I try to fix XB1-1708 on the RSC pad I get from 1.9V to 2.2V. I followed that line and removed c27 and r21 in case they're wrong and their voltage varied. But the PCB without joystick, capacitor and resistor keeps giving me 2V on the TP43 and the joystick pad. I lose track on pin 80 of the MCU. Do you have the schematic of XB1-1708 MCU?
I don't know where the 3.3V comes from at TP 42 and TP43.

Thanks in advance. The post helped me a lot. I checked all the problems related to RSC and LSC but it didn't fix the problem.

Thanks for sharing your wisdom.

https://ibb.co/qY74mNn

RDC · « **Reply #488 on:** May 12, 2021, 12:37:18 AM »

R21 (33ohm) must be in place or RSC will not work.

No schematic for the MCU board. The 3.3v most like comes from that line going directly to the MCU (Internal Pull-Up) so I'd suspect it has either some corrosion under there, or a bad solder joint. If a proper reflow of the MCU doesn't correct it, then I'd suspect some internal issue with the MCU itself.

scimitar · « **Reply #489 on:** May 15, 2021, 08:56:18 AM »

Hi all

Great post as very helpful in trying to repair a broken 1708 pad!
Ive got it mostly working now using info from this thread, thanks!

one slight issue remains that the Left Stick button (LSC?) doesnt work
TP42 has lifted and the pad to the left isnt linked (tested iwth ground and moniored on controller test app)

grateful if you can advise if there are any alternate TP42 or LSC button points I can connect for button?

https://ibb.co/r4ZTJNZ

Thanks in advance!

RDC · « **Reply #490 on:** May 15, 2021, 10:53:24 AM »

The proper way to repair that would be to install a jumper wire from the right side of R16 (top side of the board at the stick) to the LSC pin. Then another jumper wire from the left side of R16 to pad 55 of the smaller MCU board there, where it attaches to the main board. Alternately you could just go from the LSC pin to pad 55 and see how that works first.

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #491 on:** May 15, 2021, 01:16:24 PM »

I have an MCU board that works perfectly with wired connection, but on 2.4Ghz wireless it will only connect when the controller is within a few cm of the console or wireless adapter (it loses connection outside of this very small range). I?ve verified it is an MCU board issue and not anything to do with the antenna cable or power boards. Tried reflowing the MCU/RF module but the problem is exactly the same. Any advice is always appreciated!

scimitar · « **Reply #492 on:** May 15, 2021, 02:23:37 PM »

Quote from: RDC on May 15, 2021, 10:53:24 AM

.....Then another jumper wire from the left side of R16 to pad 55 of the smaller MCU board there, where it attaches to the main board. Alternately you could just go from the LSC pin to pad 55 and see how that works first.

Sorry when you say pad 55 on small mcu - is that a reference to the board with heat shield on it?
Near TP64?

Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #493 on:** May 15, 2021, 04:19:23 PM »

Correct.

scimitar · « **Reply #494 on:** May 24, 2021, 02:47:06 AM »

Thanks mate, soldered onto the position you mentioned and works a treat,

as the board is pretty stuffed/damaged with pads lifted - do you have a list of the alternate points for +y- and +x- also in that shielded area?
Great site and thanks in advance!

RDC · « **Reply #495 on:** May 24, 2021, 01:56:33 PM »

No idea exactly what you're asking for there.

Use TP103 for the Analog Stick +

Then - is just ground.

dyyyl1710 · « **Reply #496 on:** June 03, 2021, 12:55:50 PM »

Great work with schematic.
I figured out ICs U1-U3.
U1 "IAEBD" is MP2161GJ-Z buck converter,
U2-3 "IACMD" is MP3414DJ-LF-P boost converter,
"I" isnt part of code, its mark where is top of IC,
and last letter (here "D") is some sort of production year mark.
Hope someone will find it helpful

RDC · « **Reply #497 on:** June 03, 2021, 01:02:07 PM »

Would have been a lot faster to just look around the forums a bit.

https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44673.msg335750.html#msg335750

dyyyl1710 · « **Reply #498 on:** June 03, 2021, 01:25:35 PM »

Yeah, noticed after posting, just rushed to"share" my knowledge after seeing schematic

I may come to right place for advice, got problem with controller.
Its totally fuctional with usb plugged in, but when i try to turn it on (with new AA batteries) it works as long as i hold power button down. I can connect via BT, play game etc. but when i release button pad just turns off instantly. My bet was that battery charge sensing is somehow broken and power button bypasses it. But after connecting to PC v/BT Game controller tester shows fully charged battery.
Sadly i dont have acces to PnC pack, but it looks like everything is working properly and software is flawed? Any thoughts what could i do?
Im aware of simillar problem in this thread but diffrence is that my pad works on batteries, just i have to hold X button whole time :/
Thanks in advance.

dyyyl1710 · « **Reply #499 on:** June 03, 2021, 01:31:51 PM »

I will see myself out,
turned next page found exact decription of my problem.
Sorry for ignorance x.x

RDC · « **Reply #500 on:** June 03, 2021, 01:35:54 PM »

No worries at all.

99% of the time the issue is on the Button/Power board. Make sure D26 is not missing or there is some issue around the Q8/Q9 area of the board as that's where the 'latching on' takes place. Pressing Guide turns on Q8, which turns on Q9 and the controller powers up and then the MCU puts power onto J9p1, which keeps Q9 turned on after you release Guide. That's what isn't happening, so there is either an issue with D26, R7 or the traces and vias that connect that all together. That last 1% of the time, there is something going on with the MCU not sending that signal, broken trace or just the MCU being screwed up, but most times that issue is on the top board can can be sorted out.

dyyyl1710 · « **Reply #501 on:** June 03, 2021, 02:25:21 PM »

Yeah, eroded trace around via near R7, barely visible.
Works like charm, thanks

RDC · « **Reply #502 on:** June 03, 2021, 02:30:39 PM »

Welcome.

morih94 · « **Reply #503 on:** June 19, 2021, 03:03:35 AM »

Hey i've a 1708 Controller that DD is always triggring, is there anything that can go wrong apart from D12 and U4 IC ?
the trace is shorted even with D12 Removal nothing has changed

RDC · « **Reply #504 on:** June 19, 2021, 04:13:35 AM »

There is the actual DD switch to consider as well, but that's about it. U4 can fail in that manner locking up only 1 button but otherwise functioning normally.

ReshiramZekrom · « **Reply #505 on:** June 19, 2021, 04:56:59 AM »

Hello.

I was trying to fix my drifting controller by replacing the analog stick but I ended up losing a good part of the solder pads of the X axis. There's just a tiny little saved part of the pad for each of the pins but doesn't seem enough to make contact for every of them since the X axis doesn't trigger any changes whatsoever when I move it.

Is there anything I can do now in order to fix this mess?

Thank you!

RDC · « **Reply #506 on:** June 19, 2021, 05:27:27 AM »

Install 3 jumper wire, connect the dots.

ReshiramZekrom · « **Reply #507 on:** June 19, 2021, 07:06:24 AM »

Quote from: RDC on June 19, 2021, 05:27:27 AM

Install 3 jumper wire, connect the dots.

Thank you really much, you've been a lifesaver. My joypad is back to work once again

Bober · « **Reply #508 on:** June 30, 2021, 11:01:00 AM »

Hi! My first comment here. I have used the search feature but I didn't found any problem like mine (only this https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=44500.0 and some replies here about *other* parts).

I was trying to repair microusb port in my bud's 1708, but accidentaly I've blown D17 with an hot air. That thing is so tiny... I can;t find it anywhere in the room and I was literally crouching with flashlight, checking every black dot on my floor. I am so frustrated... Can I short pads or is this part vital? If it's vital, what are the specs?

Thanks so much to anyone who will respond and I hope, I did everything well in terms of forum rules (I've read them btw).
Cheers!

RDC · « **Reply #509 on:** June 30, 2021, 11:16:47 AM »

Never short the pads where any component was installed, unless some doofus specifically tells you to do it, and why it can be done, and even then you should check to make sure that it's an acceptable repair. In this case, no, not at all, as you would ground out the D- USB data line.

D17 is a protection Diode for the D- line, but it will be alright with it missing.

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 219878 times)