Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1698 "Elite" (Read 34503 times)

Adampark · « **Reply #30 on:** June 26, 2020, 11:44:53 AM »

Sorry if that didn’t make sense, it’s definitely the board with the thumbsticks on which have the faults. The controller now powers up every time but the RT no longer works it’s not constantly pressed like it was before I changed them. I used hot hair too remove u10 & c36 & solder iron too solder them. Do you think I have damaged them and need too replace them again? Thanks for the help much appreciated.

RDC · « **Reply #31 on:** June 26, 2020, 06:11:42 PM »

Measure the voltages on the LT sensor leads, Trigger not pulled as well as fully pulled, then compare them to the measurements of the RT one. Also make sure the Magnet is facing the correct way, because if that thing comes out of the Trigger and is installed the wrong way pulling the Trigger will do nothing.

Bruno Souza · « **Reply #32 on:** October 19, 2020, 07:52:08 PM »

Hello everyone, everything good.
I have an elite controller here that keeps checking the RT constantly
some of you could help me please

RDC · « **Reply #33 on:** October 20, 2020, 01:26:09 AM »

The Triggers work pretty much the same on all controller versions, not much has changed in the last 4 years with them. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43988.msg327601.html#msg327601

IB8 · « **Reply #34 on:** November 18, 2020, 09:37:20 AM »

Hi all,

I'm having a bit of a problem with my controller. I bought a faulty one off of eBay, got it working for the most part (the J6 connector was broken off, tried to resolder but it didn't work out to well, botched the joints and I don't have an air station so I ended up getting a new board after breaking the connector off. At least I have more spares now

).

My problem is the bottom right paddle, labeled P2, doesn't work at all. All of the other paddles work fine. I'm trying to find out what is along the line of the connection for the paddle to troubleshoot, but I'm not finding any info online. Can anyone help? I already tried the usual suspects, flex cable, checking for dirt, dust etc, the button seems to click just fine and everything looks good both on the paddle board and on the main board. I believe the trace goes directly to the big IC to the right of the flex connector on the right. I hope I missed something really obvious. This kind of small stuff not working REALLY annoys me.

RDC · « **Reply #35 on:** November 18, 2020, 11:41:32 AM »

Just because those things click doesn't mean they are making a connection when they're doing it, that one will get you every time.

You can check the 4 TP spots on the MCU board, no power to the controller, they should all measure a meg or so to ground as far as a Resistance check goes. If one of them is wonky there's a problem on the MCU board. Then you can activate them that way to see if they all work, then at least you'll know if the issues is for sure on the MCU board or the Alternate button board.

They are all right at the J10 connector on the MCU board, just ground each one at a time to

TP121
TP122
TP123
TP124

Top side of the MCU board (same area as J10 on the bottom) check R52, R54, R55 and R56, should all be 1k.

KeebleOz · « **Reply #36 on:** January 08, 2021, 09:18:54 AM »

Can anyone help identify which board would need replacing to fix a wireless connection issue? My Elite 1698 is orrfect working order but only works via USB (flashing continuously when unplugged)
Have tried all troubleshooting - Im hoping the 2nd board could be replaced and maybe fix?

Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #37 on:** January 08, 2021, 10:11:54 AM »

The MCU (bottom) board is the one that has the wireless bits. Try to update the Firmware on it and see if that straightens it out.

KeebleOz · « **Reply #38 on:** January 08, 2021, 11:16:31 AM »

Thanks, Ive tried that multiple times but not made any difference. Will hunt a new MCU board and see if that fixes my issue.

Appreciate your help!

KeebleOz · « **Reply #39 on:** January 08, 2021, 11:24:14 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 08, 2021, 10:11:54 AM

The MCU (bottom) board is the one that has the wireless bits. Try to update the Firmware on it and see if that straightens it out.

Just to check, that is the board without the control sticks?

RDC · « **Reply #40 on:** January 08, 2021, 11:38:27 AM »

Nope.

Eradoos · « **Reply #41 on:** January 26, 2021, 10:16:39 AM »

Hi everyone,

can someone tell me what is the value of C22 and what kind of components are D15 and D25?

thanks in advance.

RDC · « **Reply #42 on:** January 26, 2021, 10:36:36 AM »

C22 = 100nF

D15 and D25 are some type of TVS Diodes, it will work perfectly fine with them missing.

Bruno Souza · « **Reply #43 on:** February 04, 2021, 08:14:55 AM »

Hello people.
yesterday I changed the analog of my elite control, everything went well.
but now button B is being pressed constantly. can someone help me please

RDC · « **Reply #44 on:** February 04, 2021, 08:28:27 AM »

It doesn't sound like it went well.

Those 2 things have nothing to do with each other on the board. Take the controller apart and clean the B button contacts with some rubbing alcohol and see how it works out of the shell.

Bruno Souza · « **Reply #45 on:** February 04, 2021, 02:31:33 PM »

I know that both parties are not connected. I did what you told me to do, but still it is as if I were pressing the B button.
there would be some point in the mcu to be examined. I don't want to pere my controller.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #46 on:** February 22, 2021, 05:05:45 PM »

Quote from: RDC on February 04, 2021, 08:28:27 AM

It doesn't sound like it went well.

Those 2 things have nothing to do with each other on the board. Take the controller apart and clean the B button contacts with some rubbing alcohol and see how it works out of the shell.

Hello RDC. I?m having the same issue here but my problem is the profiles switch (1-2), whenever I swap to either 1 or 2 the controller will start registering X and B (on profile 1) and B on profile 2, I checked everything and seems okay, is the MCU board that has the issue, already swapped a main power board and still the same, checked every pin on J5 and j6, the controller does this with the paddles board either connected or not. Any idea where should I look here? Is not a paddle issue, is something related to the SWITCH lines but don?t know where to look for either a short or not, I heated the board and it fixed it TEMPORARILY, after I switch to any profile then it would start failing by registering the previously mentioned buttons.

Kind regards.

RDC · « **Reply #47 on:** February 22, 2021, 05:31:48 PM »

I havne't traced that thing out entirely, but the switch line seems to run straight to the MCU. Maybe try updating or redoing the FW on it and see if it straightens out.

BlueBox · « **Reply #48 on:** April 16, 2021, 11:29:33 AM »

Hey, I took my controller apart to fix an issue, and apparently broke off the C3 cap on the button board. What's the value/footprint?
Also, while I see a lot of people are doing LED mods, I can't find the specs for the D19, what are they or where do I get them?
Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #49 on:** April 18, 2021, 01:42:52 PM »

C3 value isn't anything special, so anything from 100nF to 10uF would be fine, or you can just leave it off there, it's not going to cause any issue missing.

D19 is just a White LED in an 0805 size package. No idea of the exact specs, probably something around 3.3v @5mA or so, but you can put anything in there around those values without having to do anything else. If anything needs changed it would be R5 from 80ohms to whatever your LED requires. The source voltage there is 3.5v for the LED, and plenty of online LED Resistor Calculators around to see what that will get you once you start plugging in your LED voltage spec and such.

Senni_ti · « **Reply #50 on:** June 13, 2021, 06:26:28 AM »

Man first thing, thank you so much for this resource!
I've been trying to fix a 2nd hand series x controller for ages, finally managed to make some progress thanks to this.

Run into an issue where after replacing the left stick potentiometer where it's max values and is inverted. Can't figure out what to do.
I had some issue finding the right temp and technique for desoldering it, I had to reattach c37 (it fell off, hoping it's not directional) and u11 (but I think they're trigger related anyway).
D15, C22 and R50 look ok (c22 is a degree or 2 out of straight).

I'm also now finding the Y button is permanently on (might be unrelated and I just let junk get under the membrane).

Not sure what this forums policy is for images or image links but happy to if someone was interested in taking a look.

RDC · « **Reply #51 on:** June 13, 2021, 12:16:26 PM »

Welcome.

Really don't understand the issue with the stick, as that doesn't make any sense the way it's described.

There are no polarized (directional) capacitors on the controller. C37 is just a decoupling (filter) cap on the VCC (power) rail for U11 (Hall sensor) for the LT.

How components actually look is irrelevant to how they actually behave, just like people. All of those components are related to LSY (Left stick up/down) and only R50 (1k) is really needed there for it to work.

Stuck Y button is either some garbage on the contacts or some kind of short or pull down happning on the Y button line somewhere. Could be some garbage under the MCU (there are 121 solder joints under that thing as it's a BGA package) causing it or it could be a shot MCU. Could also be that one of the alternate buttons is remapped to Y and that alternate button line is causing the issue and just looking like Y has the problem.

You can post images or links. If they are posted in the forums just remember that not everyone has a 30+ inch type of monitor setup, so if the image has to be huge to get the point across then please link that image.

Senni_ti · « **Reply #52 on:** June 15, 2021, 04:46:31 AM »

Thank you!

I fixed the stick issue, I'd popped off the potentiometers at one point. Had the idea that it would be easier to solder fewer pins at a time onto the board. I was struggling to clean the holes of solder at the time (I wasn't going hot enough).
In popping them off, I'd managed to rotate the disc part of the potentiometer by 180, which seems to have led to max inverted output.

Good to know about the caps!

You were right about the Y button, had some dried flux on the stick daughter board, I think it was bridging some probe points(?), it was near the ribbon cable connector. Works after cleaning.

I've not got an issue where the dpad doesn't work other than up, no idea why. I reseated the green plastic cross with the last assembly as I was getting a mushy/hard to activate down before. It is aligned/seated like various teardown images show it to look.

The stick now works, but even after calibration it's inconsistent in center value and max values. I'm imagining it's probably related to the previous manhandling of the potentiometers and I'm guessing I should put on a new one.

Ah gotcha, makes sense.

KoSLoW5 · « **Reply #53 on:** September 01, 2021, 02:33:28 PM »

Hello can someone help me ?

I tried to desoldering joysticks but Even with desoldering gun it was a nightmare to desoldering i deceided to cut legs but of course i broke 2 component? help me to find the reference and value please !?

I search D18 and C20 I know it's condensator and diode but i don't know what to buy ? Any advise value or link on ebay ?

RDC · « **Reply #54 on:** September 01, 2021, 02:41:38 PM »

Just remove what is left there and clean up that area, it will work fine without them in there.

Also, not everyone that views the forums does so on a 42+ inch monitor.

KoSLoW5 · « **Reply #55 on:** September 01, 2021, 03:15:14 PM »

Ah ah i dont use 42 inch monitor too i dont know why the picture is big.
Ok so these compnent are not important ok i will solder new one to try. Thank you

vaultwanderer94 · « **Reply #56 on:** September 06, 2021, 03:02:08 PM »

I had a friend ask me to repair the left stick on his controller, and when I got it opened up, D24(to the bottom left of the left stick, top side of PCB) had somehow already fallen off. Is this a necessary component or can it work without? I am able to if need be, but I'd obviously rather not tear apart my own elite to figure out that diode's polarity and go through sourcing a replacement if I don't have to. Thanks!

RDC · « **Reply #57 on:** September 06, 2021, 04:54:25 PM »

It's not needed, as long as the pad and traces are there are still intact it will work.

vaultwanderer94 · « **Reply #58 on:** September 06, 2021, 06:05:45 PM »

Awesome, thank you! For a question I feel a bit more silly for, is there any chance you could tell me the pads to solder the rumble motors and triggers to? I took the controller apart probably 2 weeks ago and can't remember which pads they were on. I do know they're the numbered "SQ#" pads. Appreciate the answer, and the help, this is an awesome resource and thread btw

RDC · « **Reply #59 on:** September 06, 2021, 09:35:32 PM »

Look at the MCU board schematic for the 1537 or the 1708 version in the pinned topics, they are all the same for those connections. The polarity doesn't matter either, motor is just going to spin backwards, but it's still going to feel the same.

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1698 "Elite" (Read 34503 times)