Author Topic: DualSense 5 Controller PCB Scans (Read 119593 times)

dj_amir · « **Reply #60 on:** February 13, 2023, 10:38:14 PM »

Thanks
how would this cap affect the antenna of the controller?

RDC · « **Reply #61 on:** February 13, 2023, 10:54:14 PM »

In no way at all.

dj_amir · « **Reply #62 on:** February 13, 2023, 11:02:00 PM »

Then how is the controller losing 50% of its range?

RDC · « **Reply #63 on:** February 14, 2023, 03:54:40 PM »

From some other issue.

Kraaz · « **Reply #64 on:** February 24, 2023, 04:37:16 AM »

I have one question for 2 x BDM 10 controllers. Point me a direction please.

First controller, L1 /L2 not working, but R1/R2 is working. Second controller R1/R2 not working, but L1/L2 is working. All 4 x controller Triggers working perfectly, tested it with working 3rd controller. Flex cables is ok too.

When i connected first controller to PC with connected L1/L2 trigger, controller not recognised by PC, but when i disconnected L1/L2 trigger, controller is recognised by PC.
Same happened with second controller but with R1/R2 trigger.

After inspection under microscope everything seems ok. Problem is on motherboards somewhere or SIE chips fault ?

RDC · « **Reply #65 on:** February 27, 2023, 01:42:48 PM »

Are you also testing on the PS5? You only mention PC testing, but say they will not detect with the Trigger assemblies plugged in.

If all of the assemblies work in another controller, then the SIE would probably be the best guess, as most of the Trigger assembly connections go right to it. Could try reflowing it to see if anything changes first.

alexzai89 · « **Reply #66 on:** March 01, 2023, 08:04:33 AM »

Hi,

want to know if anyone know the value of the resistor and capacitor that I circle in Yellow and Red?
Thanks in advance.

RDC · « **Reply #67 on:** March 01, 2023, 08:25:14 AM »

Resistor is 27 ohms. No idea on Caps, anything from 1nF to 10nF should work fine there since they are all decoupling.

Kraaz · « **Reply #68 on:** March 03, 2023, 11:40:06 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 27, 2023, 01:42:48 PM

Are you also testing on the PS5? You only mention PC testing, but say they will not detect with the Trigger assemblies plugged in.

If all of the assemblies work in another controller, then the SIE would probably be the best guess, as most of the Trigger assembly connections go right to it. Could try reflowing it to see if anything changes first.

Thank you for answer.
Yes i tested it on PS5 and they are same. Then i inspect it under Thermal camera, and of both of it, seems DA9087 is faulty. (shorted). Its posible to affected trigers ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7gYbHOt2sQ

RDC · « **Reply #69 on:** March 03, 2023, 12:06:03 PM »

The DA9087 is the PMIC, it's full of regulators and such, so I'd expect to see that one warm up a little bit like that. It doesn't look like it's getting too hot from that, unless you've compared it to a fully working one and there's a huge difference? About all it does for the Trigger assemblies is give them power and drive the feedback motors, but if that part of it was an issue it would cause both to not work not just one.

Kraaz · « **Reply #70 on:** March 04, 2023, 07:23:50 AM »

Quote from: RDC on March 03, 2023, 12:06:03 PM

The DA9087 is the PMIC, it's full of regulators and such, so I'd expect to see that one warm up a little bit like that. It doesn't look like it's getting too hot from that, unless you've compared it to a fully working one and there's a huge difference? About all it does for the Trigger assemblies is give them power and drive the feedback motors, but if that part of it was an issue it would cause both to not work not just one.

Situation is like this:

1. When i connect triggers ( left or right ) to falty side socket ( no matter which motherboard , L1/L2 or R1/R2 not working side ) DA9087 become hot like this.
2. When i connected both triggers to working side socket ( L or R no matter ) they working perfect on working side ( no matter again L1/L2 or R1/R2 not working motherboard ) DA9087 not going hot like this. Thats why i am have suspicion about DA9087.

its possible to find somewhere schematic for DA9087 ?

RDC · « **Reply #71 on:** March 04, 2023, 08:02:19 PM »

If you mean the datasheet for the DA9087, no idea where that might be, or if that's even the actual part number of that chip. Dialog seems to have several larger PMIC chips, but mainly in the BGA package.

As far as any kind of schematic goes, the only one for the DS5 controller is the one that I've made, and it's nowhere near complete enough to be useful. That PCB version is also 6 layers.

Then there are around 14 control lines between the DA9087 and the SIE chip.

The DA9087 powers both Trigger assemblies from a pair of 1.8v outputs, 1.8v and 1.8vE. The 1.8v powers the Trigger assemblies as well as the Sticks, vRef for the SIE and a couple other things, then the 1.8vE powers the EEP chips on the assemblies, the SIE and the Haptic feedback controller. I doubt any of that is causing the issue, as a short on one side would also affect the other side.

As previously mentioned, the DA9087 also powers the feedback motors on the assemblies, and those are independent of each other. As are the data connections of the assemblies, but those only go to the EEP chips on them. The Left and Right side are each on their own I2C bus, but the one on the Left is also connected to the Haptic controller I2C.

Does the Haptic feedback work on the controller with the dead L1/L2?

Kraaz · « **Reply #72 on:** March 04, 2023, 11:02:00 PM »

İ dont know, i don't have a chance to try, yesterday night, owner took it back. I offered to buy it, hes not accepted. Sad, it would be interesting to find the problem and learn something new.
Sorry to bother you too.

RDC · « **Reply #73 on:** March 04, 2023, 11:58:01 PM »

No bother, I'll have some friends keep an eye out for one that acts that way and if they run across it it'll head this way.

pingggponggg · « **Reply #74 on:** March 15, 2023, 12:36:10 PM »

Are there any ground (GND) points on the same side of the board that has the button points (ie, square, triangle, circle, X, DR, DL, DU, DD)?

Ideally, I would like to add four back buttons mapped to DR, DL, DU, and DD and would like to use a common ground (GND) point for each of those four buttons. It would be convenient if the GND point is on the same side of the board so I don?t have to remove extra parts to find a GND point. So are there any GND points on the same side as DR, DL, DU, and DD?

RDC · « **Reply #75 on:** March 15, 2023, 12:48:06 PM »

There are ground connections all over the board. You can use any of the 4 big solder joints at the sticks, all of those are ground.

pingggponggg · « **Reply #76 on:** March 15, 2023, 01:13:12 PM »

That?s great to know. So can I solder 4 different wires to a single one of those joints? Or does each wire needs it?s own ground point?

RDC · « **Reply #77 on:** March 15, 2023, 01:24:10 PM »

You can do it either of those ways or you can daisy chain the ground connections together, it will all work the exact same in the end.

pingggponggg · « **Reply #78 on:** March 15, 2023, 01:34:31 PM »

Awesome! I really appreciate your help and quick responses!

sedris · « **Reply #79 on:** March 16, 2023, 02:56:09 AM »

Third white wire on the battery for balancing? dismantled the battery, but there is 1 bank. I want to increase the capacity by soldering another one

RDC · « **Reply #80 on:** March 16, 2023, 03:12:47 AM »

White wire is for the Thermistor in the battery pack, to watch the temperature.

Wendfrey · « **Reply #81 on:** March 16, 2023, 03:56:51 PM »

Hello!

I'm struggling to understand what has to be done for the L2/R2 buttons. I want to do it without the FPC ribbon, and following the comments this is what I understand.
Am I understanding the explanations correctly?

https://imgur.com/a/MKOpbnl

RDC · « **Reply #82 on:** March 16, 2023, 05:16:32 PM »

Yep. Far easier to just leave the FPC plugged in there though, not like it takes up a ton of room, and you can easily fold it to wherever. Then all you need is 2 wires and a 100 ohm to 1k on the new L2/R2 button.

Wendfrey · « **Reply #83 on:** March 17, 2023, 10:57:52 AM »

So, as long the FPC is only connected to the BWL I wont need more wires? Cool!
In the main post you mention a pullup resistor, is that the 100 Ohms resistor? Or you mean that the resistor of the button can range from 100 to 1k ohms?

RDC · « **Reply #84 on:** March 17, 2023, 11:05:23 AM »

If you leave the FPC connected then you'll just need 2 wires for each of the L2/R2 buttons, one to ground, the other to the L2/R2 line. The 100 to 1k is for that new button, and it can go on eihter side of it, doesn't matter, ground side or the L2/R2 side, all the same. It's just there so that you're not shorting the line directly to ground when you press the new L2/R2 button. The PU and all is already on the FPC, which is why it's just easier to leave that thing plugged in.

Wendfrey · « **Reply #85 on:** March 17, 2023, 11:19:35 AM »

Thank you for the explanation! You are a fountain of wisdom.

RDC · « **Reply #86 on:** March 17, 2023, 11:20:50 AM »

Welcome.

Stone · « **Reply #87 on:** April 16, 2023, 07:33:37 AM »

I'm making an adaptive controller from a ps5 BDM-020 MOTHERBOARD. I think I figured all the buttons except the options and share buttons. I did get them to work by running a lead from the ground and touching the contacts, however I barley can see them let alone solder a wire to the small contact (top right for the share button, top left for the the options button). Are there any solder points I can use or another solution?

RDC · « **Reply #88 on:** April 16, 2023, 08:54:51 AM »

There are no nice TP spots or anywhere to get at most of the buttons in the PS controllers.

If you are not concerned with the original function of the buttons, then just take an Xacto knife and pop the top off them. It's just a little metal cap that bends to make the connection. Then you can solder to the center contact in there, and use any ground for the other side of your new Options/Share buttons.

Kranex · « **Reply #89 on:** April 22, 2023, 08:13:36 AM »

Hi there, I lost this little one while removing the joysticks. I'm assuming this is just a little decoupling capacitor, will it be ok if I just bridge it, or should I try and find a replacement? If so does anyone know what size these are, smd isn't my forte.

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Author Topic: DualSense 5 Controller PCB Scans (Read 119593 times)