Author Topic: Rapid Fire Method (No Chip) (Read 371723 times)

Arsic · « **Reply #300 on:** August 13, 2008, 09:55:21 PM »

The barcode is different for 3 of my controllers. Two are 064 and one is 007. The 064s are from the blue controllers.

wilson08 · « **Reply #301 on:** August 14, 2008, 01:48:07 AM »

You can check what board you have by taking the battery pack off and looking at the PCB .. It should look like the pic of thd old matrix... I havent gt a pic atm, but there is one in the tutorial i did

FrankieB4 · « **Reply #302 on:** August 14, 2008, 08:20:59 AM »

I think you had it backwards, 016 isnt working with led ground at all, and 014 does

staticvoid · « **Reply #303 on:** August 14, 2008, 09:18:49 AM »

no i didnt have it backwards. i was hoping we could make a list of usable controllers but guess not.

anyone know what the difference is in the old type boards?

Nemesis000 · « **Reply #304 on:** August 14, 2008, 01:25:15 PM »

Could you tell em how to find the controller version as i wonna give this a bash!!! Cheers

Bubs · « **Reply #305 on:** August 14, 2008, 03:32:03 PM »

I did this mod using the second ground point (the one under R21) and it works great. The LED ground point didn't seem to stay very stable. Has anyone found a way to get the mod to work on fully charged batteries?

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #306 on:** August 14, 2008, 07:03:46 PM »

hmm idk for now just dnt use fully charged batteries.

The barcodes idk i havent even checked the ones im working with...

That im gonna try to find out wats the diff between the old and new controllers..

ParadiseEVE · « **Reply #307 on:** August 14, 2008, 07:45:05 PM »

Ok guys i tryed it out and broke my controller ...BUT the result is..... IT WORKED.
and blazinkaos i tryed in on the other LED ground and it works, so thanks.

THEDIMKO · « **Reply #308 on:** August 15, 2008, 02:20:24 AM »

HEY GUYS I JUST REGISTERED AND I TRIED THE TUTORIAL AND I GOT IT ALL TO WORK ... I THINK PUTTING THE THING TOGETHER WAS THE MOST DIFFICULT PART BUT I SOLDERED TO THE LED AND THE RIGHT TRIGGER AND IT SEEMS LIKE ... WITH THE BATTERY PACKS ( NYKO RECHARGE ) IT WILL ONLY WORK EVERY .... SAY 3 MINUTES ? AND WITH THE AA BATTERY PACK AND IT WORKS NEARLY FLAWLESS BUT IT SEEMS TO .... SKIP ? DOES THAT MAKE SENSE IT WILL FLAIR UP AND SHOOT FAST FOR A SPLIT SECOND ... PAUSE AND THEN START OVER AGAIN LIKE REAL UNEVEN PULSE'S ... AND IDEAS ?

SORRY FOR THE CAPS ... ITS 5:20 AM ... I DIDNT NOTICE UNTIL IT WAS TOO LATE

Blazzed Troll · « **Reply #309 on:** August 15, 2008, 09:46:32 AM »

Hey I just decided to mod my controller...I'm not a complete nub and I did read this whole thing but I never did figure out...Does the original method 2 wires momentary off (on) switch two the middle trigger pin and led ground work....
I am gonna go to radio shack soon and buy some stuff...If I got a 555 timer (the low powerd 1.5V to 25V one) some wire and a switch would that be enough....i mean if the pulse was just not pusling and thats why it didnt work could I just make a pulse or buy something that pulsed and do it like
Middle Pin -> something pulsing -> switch -> ground or do i need the transistors and sh*t too...I mean if you dont need them for the momentary switch like in the videos why would you need them otherwise...or is that whole Idea completley shot
Im looking for the easiest way to make one...I dont want to order special pieces or anything I want to go to radio shack grab some stuff and solder it together

Ill be back in a bit to check for answers....

Bubs · « **Reply #310 on:** August 15, 2008, 08:47:38 PM »

Okay, this is what I have so far. I have built a controller using both methods. Building the controller with the 555 timer, capacitors, transistors and resistors worked extremely well, but it cost over ten times as much, took well over ten times as long and the finished mod is rather large. Unless you know how to freeform a circuit without using a PCB board, it's almost impossible to fit it into a controller without sacrificing a rumble motor and even then with freeforming it still takes some planning on how to freeform to fit it in the controller, but again, it worked flawlessly.

As for this new method of soldering from the middle trigger pin to any type of switch then to the ground on the LED, it works to some extent. Yes, it does skip at times. I believe it wouldn't skip if a potentiometer were used to adjust the pulse rate like used in the 555 timer circuit. I will be testing this to find out if it's possible. The skipping is not a major problem compared to costs and ease of the mod. The only other problem is that the mod will not work at all with fully charged AA batteries or a fully charged battery pack. I found that the voltage is too high between the LED and the batteries when they're fully charged. Normal AA batteries put out 1.5 V each for a total for 3.0 V. I tried Energizer rechargeable batteries, they put out 1.2 V each for a total of 2.4 V and they worked fully charged perfectly. This confirms that the voltage is the problem. I've begun testing reducing the voltage to 2.5 V with an adjustable 3-pin voltage regulator but I have been unsuccessful with figuring out a working circuit for it as of yet. If anyone has any ideas on how it would fit into the circuit or any other way of lowering the voltage via resistors or any other component, please let me know.

Winterz117 · « **Reply #311 on:** August 16, 2008, 12:51:17 PM »

is the method using a 555 timer different from the kits you can buy on ebay? if so can anyone point me towards the instructions for that? i kinda want to compare all the methods and see which one i want to try...

DjBulletFast · « **Reply #312 on:** August 17, 2008, 07:22:08 AM »

Guys it seriously worth just buying the chip set from AcidMods King and his web sight http://wiredinput.com/ShopUSA/ I bought the chip set for $13 I have never solder before and got it up and running in less than an hour. It is completely worth it because it works on old and new style controllers and you don't have to worry about burning out your LED light or having it on controller one or your battery's being used. Skip the headaches. You have to solder more but the spots are easy to solder.

DjBulletFast · « **Reply #313 on:** August 17, 2008, 07:25:13 AM »

Quote from: Winterz117 on August 16, 2008, 12:51:17 PM

is the method using a 555 timer different from the kits you can buy on ebay? if so can anyone point me towards the instructions for that? i kinda want to compare all the methods and see which one i want to try...

Here is the instructions for the
NEW RapidFire Dual Triggers Kit [New & Old Style Controllers]
[PIC12F683 B] $12.99

https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=21452.0

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #314 on:** August 17, 2008, 05:09:21 PM »

Quote

Guys it seriously worth just buying the chip set from AcidMods King and his web sight http://wiredinput.com/ShopUSA/ I bought the chip set for $13 I have never solder before and got it up and running in less than an hour. It is completely worth it because it works on old and new style controllers and you don't have to worry about burning out your LED light or having it on controller one or your battery's being used. Skip the headaches. You have to solder more but the spots are easy to solder.

Ooo i would suggest trying to practice soldering before trying this. Practice on a old mobo of something and see if you comfortable soldering.

DjBulletFast · « **Reply #315 on:** August 17, 2008, 08:59:24 PM »

I practiced a bit by soldering two wires together lol but the joints are really not that small so it really wasn't to bad the hardest part of the job was routing the cables so it wouldn't pinch and break them while putting it back together I had to re solder two wires because they got clipped while closing them the first time putting it back together. But other wise works like a champ I love gunning people down with fully auto pistol. I completely recommend buying the kit.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #316 on:** August 18, 2008, 04:46:07 PM »

What kinda wire you using..
Try goin slow at it so the wiring dnt get messed up take ur time...

jads · « **Reply #317 on:** August 19, 2008, 02:23:41 AM »

Quote from: antitime on August 04, 2008, 09:36:08 PM

A friend and I tried this mod today just for giggles.
First of all, it doesn't seem to work even a first-gen wired controller.
We used a TP19 old-style wireless controller next. Soldered the wires up, and it would work every once in a while, but not consistently.
We then remembered the note about not using fresh AA batteries....so we snatched the AA's out of the TV remote, popped em in the controller....now it works great every time.
Just for info, we soldered to the left side of the P1 LED.
So, if you guys have problems with the mod...don't use wired or rechargeable, make sure you're using USED AA batteries.

I'm getting the same inconsistency problem, does anyone know how old the batteries have to be (in Volts) so I can use a multimeter to see if thats the problem. Soldering onto he LED 1 ground and Middle Pin of trigger is perfect. It works, just not very consistent. (not complaining - just want to know if this is a problem encountered by others and the Voltage of battteries classed as 'old')

Also, whats the 555 timer method like? anyone recommend using chip kits? SO button combo's are possible too?

Thanks

-Jads

jads · « **Reply #318 on:** August 19, 2008, 02:33:16 AM »

Quote from: Bubs on August 15, 2008, 08:47:38 PM

Okay, this is what I have so far. I have built a controller using both methods. Building the controller with the 555 timer, capacitors, transistors and resistors worked extremely well, but it cost over ten times as much, took well over ten times as long and the finished mod is rather large. Unless you know how to freeform a circuit without using a PCB board, it's almost impossible to fit it into a controller without sacrificing a rumble motor and even then with freeforming it still takes some planning on how to freeform to fit it in the controller, but again, it worked flawlessly.

I was thinking, look at the pictures here: http://www.consolecustoms.net/tutorials/360_single_button_rapid_tutorial_8pin.pdf

They just glue the chip to the bottom right hand corner of the board and they go from there, I though that was quite clever. You could then use the rumble are for components. Only problem is, the mod becomes permenant...

-Jads

P.S. Sorry if this is a double post

Blazzed Troll · « **Reply #319 on:** August 19, 2008, 08:10:14 AM »

Quote from: staticvoid on August 14, 2008, 09:18:49 AM

no i didnt have it backwards. i was hoping we could make a list of usable controllers but guess not.

anyone know what the difference is in the old type boards?

well even though they are the same style of board (Matrix) all boards are different. I mean they can all be made perfect so really one controller might have a slightly worse voltage efficiency than the next which may only be off be like .1 or .2 volts but with chips that use pulses and timers that could be the difference between a 20shots per second and a 5 shot then break and 10 shots per second.
That and then again batteries while AA are 1.5 each over their life they slowly do loose some voltage maybe like .1 per batteries which is .2 overall so again maybe that effects it...thats why the methods with resistors and chips almost always work. The resistor sets voltage and the chip is a constant code so if it gets 1.5 volts it executes the same as 1.4 volts but pulse can be slowed like a motor(More volts makes motors faster). So really if you dont know what you are doing you should buy a chip set and just solder the 5 or 6 wires....but if you know how a circuit works and you have a voltage meter and can check the volts between two spots then go ahead and test your controller with a timer or a switch using led ground pulse...your controller might just get a little messy soldering and unsoldering.

I have my circuit planned out and have found all the parts I need from looking at these pictures of the Matrix controller which i have...but I can get two screws out...the T8H bit I have is two fat by the hand so it doesnt fit all the way in im thinking of cutting out some so i can fit it in...but a new bit is only like $2 anyone know where I can get a more narrow bit so I can test and start posting resullts(P.S. no ordering I cant trust these people some of my stuff has been lost, my mail men arent very trust worthy)

Winterz117 · « **Reply #320 on:** August 19, 2008, 12:12:30 PM »

im currently working on perfecting the fire rate of the 555 timer method, because for me it does sputter alot, every once in a while. the loss of voltage does come into play so im working on using an led as a resistor that doubles as an indicator light, and using a potentiometer to adjust the voltage as the batteries loose power

DjBulletFast · « **Reply #321 on:** August 20, 2008, 04:36:19 PM »

I'm using the chip kit now, and I have had no problems with mine sputtering or any thing. I have the two switch method on mine. It works by when u press the the switch it turns it on and you use the trigger to fire and it does rapid. Turn it off with the switch and it goes back to single fire per pull of the trigger. I found it very easy to install just follow instructions and TA DA! your mowing people down. I would recommend making your self a contraption to hold the wire or a buddy while you solder.

Winterz117 · « **Reply #322 on:** August 20, 2008, 06:58:08 PM »

yeah thats a good way to doit, the chips are way more consistent than the 555timer method

themagicsauce · « **Reply #323 on:** August 21, 2008, 07:41:28 PM »

Does it matter what type of switch i use or does it have to be a tact switch.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #324 on:** August 21, 2008, 08:08:18 PM »

switch for what...to turn of rapid fire...

themagicsauce · « **Reply #325 on:** August 21, 2008, 08:17:51 PM »

To do the first method posted sodering one wire to the middle spike for the rt and the second wire to the p1 led with the switch in between. i bought this one hoping i could use it. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508&cp=&sr=1&origkw=Momentary+Switch&kw=momentary+switch&parentPage=search

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #326 on:** August 21, 2008, 08:42:09 PM »

Yea simple... just solder it right and make a hole for ut button, glue and done...

themagicsauce · « **Reply #327 on:** August 21, 2008, 08:45:44 PM »

Cool thanks just making sure before i wonder why it isnt working.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #328 on:** August 21, 2008, 08:46:58 PM »

yea hmm wait that is a switch ur using isnt it for the button...

themagicsauce · « **Reply #329 on:** August 21, 2008, 08:58:11 PM »

yeah but its not like a push on push off switch as far as i can tell.

News:

Author Topic: Rapid Fire Method (No Chip) (Read 371723 times)

Arsic