Author Topic: Planning Open Source Rapidfire Update video (Read 20822 times)

Hazer · « **on:** August 09, 2008, 12:05:43 PM »

Things are coming along:

[youtube=425,350]KshyO--B1_k[/youtube]

So right now I have rapid/sleeper functioning on old and new controllers with same code.
Different fire rates are selected by pressing a program button (almost finished with sleeper mode)
The timings to be selected will need to be tweaked for best effect on all games.

I am currently working on tightening up the sleeper wiring.
Program settings will be stored in EEPROM.
I am thinking about making the programming button on the shoulder. If you hold it down for 4 seconds, you change to the next state.
I currently have a status LED working on both new/old controllers.
All circuits will be controller safe.

I am a little put off that not a single person has any concern for burning out thier controller by wiring the PICs outputs directly to the wiper analog inputs.....

Once I get the standard code cleaned, I will post scematics and assembly code and hex files.

Ack Like You Know · « **Reply #1 on:** August 09, 2008, 12:12:20 PM »

Make something along the lines of the sleeper rapid fire. Since Mike never released a code for it, you can't possibly steal it, just the idea of it. I believe that's what xboxexpert did. He just saw what Mike did and replicated it. Just make something that can be used for both triggers with the possibility of an on/off switch (not sync button).

folklord36 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 09, 2008, 12:22:05 PM »

now that's what im talking about

great TEAM spirit. Ya a sleeper with both triggers.

Crazy Germans · « **Reply #3 on:** August 09, 2008, 12:57:36 PM »

I'm happy as long as it works for all games. Thanks man, this'll be great

gameroms · « **Reply #4 on:** August 09, 2008, 03:00:30 PM »

sure release it, we need more on ebay.

Ack Like You Know · « **Reply #5 on:** August 09, 2008, 03:05:53 PM »

I don't see why the codes don't get released. They're on ebay, they're always gonna be on ebay. If people are stupid enough to buy them, that's their choice. We're the smart ones who are looking to do it for pennies. If they're so compulsive that they go ahead and buy on ebay, then that's not our fault. Just my opinion. But anyways, if this guy can make a similar code as Mike's then more power to him. He's willing to put some time in for no profit.

KingMike_OS · « **Reply #6 on:** August 09, 2008, 03:13:00 PM »

Go for it .. make all these people happy oh and help out the ebay ..
it will get stolen and copy the credit will go to some one else ..
and have to deal with bunch of diff people ideah i want this no
i want that so its ongoing loop can't never get everyone happy
100%

go for it and best of luck to you .

Any profit that we make gose to better the site pay's for the server and pays for new ideah
parts cost money shipping cost money testing and finding new way cost money Oh don't forget
My time is time away from my family from my work that i could be doing.
I have the Best Price on Web i been doing Sleeper mod for people who can't do it for free
I'm flashing the chips for free.
Thats is the best i can do for now.

Hazer 100% behind you all the way make our members happy Please

gameroms · « **Reply #7 on:** August 09, 2008, 03:19:51 PM »

atleast put a limit on it, like 100 power on's and then has to be reprogramed, to protect from ebay. everyone should be happy with that since they have a programer

Ack Like You Know · « **Reply #8 on:** August 09, 2008, 03:39:20 PM »

I agree with gameroms 100%. Release the sleeper with the 1,000 use limit and BAM, problem solved.. Good luck hazer

gameroms · « **Reply #9 on:** August 09, 2008, 03:46:48 PM »

hell a thousand is to much, say you power your controller 5 times a day, thats 200 days, way to much, personally i think reprograming of 1 per month should be fine for everyone with a programer.

Hazer · « **Reply #10 on:** August 09, 2008, 05:52:21 PM »

Mike: I just want to be sure. It sounded like you are OK with me posting an open-source.

Everyone: There will be no limit. I will be posting both hex AND assembly code. People can take it and modify it to thier liking. It can evolve by others. It can be ripped and sold on Ebay. I dont care about Ebay. I dont care about credit. I think it would be a fun challenge that hopefully the people here can take advantage of.

As far as Ebay goes: If people want to spend $40 for what would cost $5 from posting a completely open project, so be it. If the people here who have already bought programmers can get something from it, that makes it worth my time. If someone wants to invest a small amount of cash and put together kits and undercut the Ebayers on Ebay, that would serve justice. I really dont care either way.

I have a CG controller on hand to start with and plan to rent COD4 and Halo3 to start with. I am looking at the hardware to start.

SillyNuts · « **Reply #11 on:** August 09, 2008, 06:25:11 PM »

y even make it that hard tho bro programmers and stuff you can do the same with indepth timers and sutch

OpTiCz · « **Reply #12 on:** August 09, 2008, 07:45:21 PM »

Make it unlimited uses.
I hope dozens of people FLOOD eBay with chips and the prices drop to 10 dollars per kit.
I guarantee that's what will happen. It's all supply and demand. Demand is REALLY high, the code isn't available, so supply is low.

I think we need any 12F683 chips to have STANDARD WIRING.
I like the wiring diagrams that exist now; that way we don't have to keep opening our controllers to change the wiring around.

I'm still dying to get some code; crippled or not, to get the rapid fire with switch activation.

4-----5
Switch A 3 6 Trigger A
Switch B 2 7 Trigger B
VCC 1__-__8 Ground

Hazer · « **Reply #13 on:** August 09, 2008, 07:57:59 PM »

I plan to make it easier, not harder. Currently the 555 timer has to be wired differently for each type of controller and every circuit requires caps and pots and I have seen alot of posts about wierd behavior. 555 timers are not very stable. Also, I have read alot of issues of single fire glitch just before rapidfire. And there is also another bug where even the PIC chips slow-down or stop working altogether after some time.

As it is, I have some testing to do on the wiper for the trigger pots. Something about wiring the PICs output directly to the pot does not sit well with me. I will explain after I can confirm.

My goal is to have one PIC program that can be wired to all controllers (CG/Matrix, wired/wireless, and 3rd party cheappies if possible). There is currently 3 pins not even being used on most designs. It would be easy to use at least one as a controller identifier. If its soldered to power, its a GC controller. If its soldered to ground, its a matrix controller. One code, all controllers.

Timing of the rapidfire will be very tightly controlled. I want to do multi-timing selection off one button. Each press would change the timing to pre-determined output signals. This would be the best way IMO to calibrate the signals for all games.

Ack Like You Know · « **Reply #14 on:** August 09, 2008, 08:55:13 PM »

Hazer. Got a couple handfulls of 12F683's and 16F684's if you need stuff to try code on. I'd gladly donate to the cause.

SillyNuts · « **Reply #15 on:** August 09, 2008, 09:34:44 PM »

the 555 timer chip i came up with iv used on old/new wired and wireless. no bugs "yet" other then it will slow down with bad batteries good batteries it rocks and no 1 shot glitch here all fully auto and fast . what iv found is this ......\

if you have your battery pack of and just have the plug and play charge kit in (just the wire no batteries or power pack) there is no issues at all of any kind...

gameroms · « **Reply #16 on:** August 09, 2008, 09:59:36 PM »

i garantee ebay prices will drop, very soon

OpTiCz · « **Reply #17 on:** August 09, 2008, 10:04:27 PM »

http://forum.microchip.com/tm.aspx?m=353574&mpage=5
Go the the attachment at the bottom.
Nkurzman has a good start.
Sounds like it works on the newer wireless.....

h311jump3r · « **Reply #18 on:** August 10, 2008, 06:58:23 PM »

hazer...any chance I can be on the open source team. As you, I really want to learn to code these darn chips...I get my programmer tomorrow (monday). And, I am reaching my break through with the code that I started. You can use it as a template for the open source code. PM me or just replay here....

OpTiCz · « **Reply #19 on:** August 10, 2008, 07:38:05 PM »

Let me clarify what's been going back and forth between threads for those of you who don't want to read too much.
The code already exists in multiple places for Rapid Fire using Tact switches.
The chip is sending a constant signal out of 2 pins, which are attached to Tact Switches.
The other side of the tact switch is connected to the middle pin of the triggers.
Simply pressing the tact switch completes the Circuit.

There was a request to have a 12F683 chip used to do a Spit Fire mod.
Spitfire is a bit different, where the tact switches are used to turn off and on rapid fire.
Here was the original request.
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=20459.0

As you can see, King Mike had issues trying to figure out the code to get it to work as the eBay seller did.
He went as far as spending his own money on the chip, but the seller had

the code.

Apparently, he has the code working correctly, because he's selling the kits on his site.
The only downside is that several of us had bought kits to program our chips thinking the code would be released once King Mike figured it out. We were wrong.

I'm all for turning the rapid fire off and on using the sync switch, but I would also like to be able to use the tact switches for those of us people who double wield pistols in Halo 3. I'm assuming you'd program the chip for this, but only use 1 pin instead of 2 if you're using the sync button.

I HIGHLY suggest reading this thread.
http://forum.microchip.com/tm.aspx?m=353574

K8LH has several attachments, one of his latest being the code.
I'll message him and let him know there's an open source project going on here.

Hazer · « **Reply #20 on:** August 10, 2008, 07:46:07 PM »

Thank you all for the support. At the moment I am good

.

I have been going through the various information on all the sites regarding this project. RCD over at X-S has done some pretty good background work already.

For the moment, I am just going through the hardware. This will not be a hard project. If you visited my site, this whole entire project falls under the 'beginner' catagory as all we are talking about is overlaying a simple pulse circuit over the trigger contacts. The hard part will be to do it in an easy to implment manner across as many controllers as possible without causing harm to the controller.

Which brings me to my next point: The very first thing that concerns me with most of the rapidfire methods done thus far could potentially damage your controller. Maybe, maybe not. Currently, alot of people are pulsing the full 3V power supply directly to the wiper pin. The trigger pot itself is only supplied with regulated 1.5V from the controller. This was done so that as the battery dies, your output from the wiper did not degrade as well. The inputs into the single Microsoft chip is expecting a 1.5V to 0V signal, and most of the projects on these forums are pumping 3V directly into it. The one 555 timer circuit done over at X-S at least uses transistors to tie the wiper pin voltage to the 1.5V source or ground. So far, there have not been alot of reports that controllers are dying everywhewre, so I could just be over-cautious. But there are more concerns. If for say you have the PIC drop 3V Directly into the wiper, it will pump excessive current over the top end of the pot since the 1.5V source goes to all the potentiometers for all the analog controls.

Anyways, I have some optocouplers coming in the mail to test. I would preffer to keep it simple by using just a resistor in series though.

I have already determined that most of these designs use a 50% duty cycle and I want to test if reducing that will help get better results in-game. There should be no reason to have any more than a 10ms step pulse and just vary the frequency for each game.

I also need to ask, if it came down to 2 choices, what would everyone preffer: Rapidfire from a seperate button installed, or rapidfire from the original trigger that can be turned off? It may have all to do with how the PIC connects to the wiper.

h311jump3r · « **Reply #21 on:** August 10, 2008, 08:07:04 PM »

Ok...I ahve a better idea hazer...i will pm it to you (just so I can be in the lil opensource group!

).

Hazer · « **Reply #22 on:** August 10, 2008, 08:21:26 PM »

Opticx: thanks for the link. I had read through that back when gameroms started it. It snice to see others interested purely for the challenge of it.

Just to clarify a few things: I currently have an old and new Wireless controllers to start with. I am evaluating the hardware. I have already determined a simple (yet safe) way to wire the PIC to each controller for your basic tactile->rapidfire on each trigger. I am about to determine the best way to interface for the sleeper version.

In that link, they were right about having to use a tristate switching on the wiper. But it may not have to be directly through the PIC.

All of my code is done in assembly and I test it in MPLAB simulator for syntax errors before I even burn the chip. I can get a direct simulation of button presses and timings on outputs. I also have a very good understanding of exactly what the PIC hardawre is doing. This is one of the downfalls of using higher-end languages for programming PICs. There is alot of misunderstanding and misconfiguration of chips using C or BASIC.

As I get more hardware tests done, I will keep everyone informed. Coding will probably begin late this week.

OpTiCz · « **Reply #23 on:** August 10, 2008, 08:27:15 PM »

My vote is for using the triggers (spitfire).
Why not post code for both?
I'm sure if you figureout spitfire, the latter will be just as easy.

OpTiCz · « **Reply #24 on:** August 10, 2008, 08:40:54 PM »

Sounds good.
Like I said, I'm up for testing anything.
Can you post a diagram on how I should have my IC socket wired on my controller so I can put it back together?
If you have a pretty good idea of what pins you'll be using, and if there won't be any resistors, that would be awesome.
I have no familiarities with programming, just eager to test.
There's some good idea's I've had too, but not sure how they would work.
Another cool thing would be using the Player 3 and 4 to tell if rapid fire is on as previously mentioned, and also having burst fire modes.
Maybe 1 click turns on 3 round burst, 2 within 2 seconds turns on full auto, and 3 would turn them off.
Just an idea

illusionistpro · « **Reply #25 on:** August 10, 2008, 09:27:03 PM »

A nice set of features would be a chip that is able to do spitfire/rapidfire meaning the option of triggers or buttons. Dualies of course. On-off for those doing triggers, sync button isnt bad, some people like switches, wont be a programming issue either way. Personally I think mikes chips are pretty close to everything I could need. I cant wait to see what you can do.

uilleann · « **Reply #26 on:** August 10, 2008, 09:47:21 PM »

I am up for helping out here with testing. I have a few different controllers and have been testing out the codes on here http://forum.microchip.com/tm.aspx?m=353574&mpage=6 . There is a working code there for on/off using tact switches and the original trigger to fire on the newer cg controller. I can't get it to work on the matrix ones. I imagine it is just a small adjustment in the program as the matrix ones the centre trigger pin goes to .3 v from 2.5v when fireing compared to the cg which increases in voltes to 2.5v when fireing.

Crazy Germans · « **Reply #27 on:** August 10, 2008, 10:14:29 PM »

Well I'd just like to let you know that I love the steps you guys are takin with this. Once the code is released, prices on ebay will plumet.

And also, I'm up for testing any code. I should be ordering a programmer soon, I have no idea how to program, but I do led mods for lots of people so I run through controllers real fast. If you need something tested on different types of controllers then I'm here to help. Throw me a pm if you need any extra testing done.

h311jump3r · « **Reply #28 on:** August 11, 2008, 12:52:40 AM »

here is a snippet(most of it) of the PM i sent hazer (to keep u in the know):

this is to get into your good graces and into the open source team.

Ok, say the user has some controllers (maybe one of a specific board style). Okay, lets say that we give a code to each specific controller type...ummm, lets do this by...making a boot time of 5-10 seconds on the controller and the chip when the controller is turned on. So, in the beginning of the code in the pic would be like:

wait 10 seconds, if user inputs certain combination of keys (that identify the controller board style), then match the keys with predefined keys to a specific controller style, copy this bit of information into the EEPROM (not RAM, RAM gets erased) or a part of the chip that doesn't get erased without a power source.

Once we have a match, we make an if then goto command that takes us to the controller style specific subroutine.

This will mean that we can make a tutorial, tell people what the codes are, how to find their controller style and how to configure their chip. Then we tell them which wires to use for each controller style...etc.

also, they can set variable speeds by using this method...lets say that if the chip reads (righttrigger (GPIO.#), leftrigger(GPIO.#)) RT,RT,RT,RT,RT makes it really fast, while LT,LT,LT,LT,LT makes it really slow (around 5 presses a second). And different combinations of the triggers to get different settings that are saved into the eeprom...

I'm not sure if this is possible, but it should work (or we can find a way).

Also, I created a website today and would like you to visit it to see if you like it to be the headquarters of this mod. I would like this because I will get new members (since the site was made today) and also, it will be better than AcidMods.com because I will implement a way for you to maintain a "project" just like sourceforge. Right now

.com is in beta but it is fully functional. Check it out and tell me what you think (btw, you can bring your tutorials over to

as soon as I set the tutorial section up (wayyy different than the usual tutorial management...forum-wise)...

sooo, ya...I have more ideas...

-H311JUMP3R
A.K.A N0RIG

*Give

a try. Remember I jsut created it and IT WILL get better. This is not my first website...

OpTiCz · « **Reply #29 on:** August 11, 2008, 04:48:20 AM »

Not bad.
Joomla is the shizznit.
Careful how you do that; you don't want to start taking Acidmod's community elsewhere.

KyleP · « **Reply #30 on:** August 11, 2008, 07:20:13 AM »

personnally i like the sleeper no added buttons and looks on it just put some leds in the controller

gameroms · « **Reply #31 on:** August 11, 2008, 08:12:19 AM »

you can do auto detect, so chip detects which controller it is when its turned on. no need for a button combo to identify controller

h311jump3r · « **Reply #32 on:** August 11, 2008, 09:29:00 AM »

Yeah, I know right! Anyways, it is not even finished yet, this is just the basic look for it and once it is finished it will look soo awesome (guaranteed?)! I will put so many things for all users.

Well, it would be cool if some of you guys signed up, and if you find anything wrong (i.e. a bug) you can pm on the forum (here or there).

For a few hours of work, the site is pretty good I think...

h311jump3r · « **Reply #33 on:** August 11, 2008, 10:01:13 AM »

Quote from: gameroms on August 11, 2008, 08:12:19 AM

you can do auto detect, so chip detects which controller it is when its turned on. no need for a button combo to identify controller

Ok, didn't know that. But the other part about speed variables could still work. I also found a better way a few days ago and am not sure if I saved it...I'll get back to you if I ever find it again...

Hazer · « **Reply #34 on:** August 11, 2008, 03:47:23 PM »

I was already thinking about having one of the inputs dedicated for controller select. Solder to Vdd for matrix, solder to ground for CG.

At this point, there will most likely be a couple of codes for external buttons vs sleeper.

Just to clarify: The work I do will only be posted here on these forums. The only reason I am doing this is because it seems to be a rather high demand for the people here and I like this forum. With luck, this project will lend bandwidth.

h311jump3r · « **Reply #35 on:** August 11, 2008, 04:25:06 PM »

Quote from: Hazer on August 11, 2008, 03:47:23 PM

Just to clarify: The work I do will only be posted here on these forums. The only reason I am doing this is because it seems to be a rather high demand for the people here and I like this forum. With luck, this project will lend bandwidth.

Aww man, cmon. I mean, i was just saying that cuz I have a way to keep all the files really easy to find at

.com

h311jump3r · « **Reply #36 on:** August 12, 2008, 08:06:42 PM »

Just here to tell you all that the tutorial section that I promised is up and running

!!!

Visit

http://:censored:.com/tuts

If you want to join my community please sign up at the forums!

http://:censored:.com/forum

Ack Like You Know · « **Reply #37 on:** August 13, 2008, 05:01:03 AM »

I signed up. My PS3 rapid fire with single tactile switch is almost done and will soon be released give me a couple weeks and it will be ready to go. I'll post my PS3 rapid fire tutorial on your site.

h311jump3r · « **Reply #38 on:** August 13, 2008, 08:03:28 AM »

Quote from: Ack Like You Know on August 13, 2008, 05:01:03 AM

I signed up. My PS3 rapid fire with single tactile switch is almost done and will soon be released give me a couple weeks and it will be ready to go. I'll post my PS3 rapid fire tutorial on your site.

NICE, I knew ppl would love it compared to conventional forum posts...took me a longgg time to get it to work and get the style done.

Ack Like You Know · « **Reply #39 on:** August 13, 2008, 08:59:04 AM »

Yeah. PS3 rapid fire is almost done. The method is a little different but install is pretty straightforward. I'll be posting vids here in a week or so with installation pictures/diagrams. I'll keep everyone posted here and on your site as to its release. Will be putting the first 50 kits or so on ebay to recoup the money I put into it. After I have come out square even, I will release the hex and PS3 owners will be rapid firing in no time.

By the way, my kits will only be $15 SHIPPED compared to what the jack off on ebay sells them for. Keep an eye out!!

h311jump3r · « **Reply #40 on:** August 13, 2008, 09:02:32 AM »

Quote from: Ack Like You Know on August 13, 2008, 08:59:04 AM

Yeah. PS3 rapid fire is almost done. The method is a little different but install is pretty straightforward. I'll be posting vids here in a week or so with installation pictures/diagrams. I'll keep everyone posted here and on your site as to its release. Will be putting the first 50 kits or so on ebay to recoup the money I put into it. After I have come out square even, I will release the hex and PS3 owners will be rapid firing in no time.

By the way, my kits will only be $15 SHIPPED compared to what the jack off on ebay sells them for. Keep an eye out!!

That is awesome man, and thank you for your support. I need fresh content so people can find my site. I would like everyone here to go to my site, even though it's still in beta, the feeling is still there. I will be adding tons of things to it to make it literally...the repository for all mods (my slogan for now on...on the site).

Anyways, thank you for your support man (ohhh, you didn't sign up at the forum...just at the tuts...)

I gotta find a way to bridge them together...

Hazer · « **Reply #41 on:** August 13, 2008, 07:15:21 PM »

As most of you know, here is how the 2 board styles work:

By rhayes33 at 2008-08-13

Looking at the new CG board, we now know that the wiper is a 10kOhm potentiometer that provides an analog signal using the trigger. As you pull the trigger you offset the resistance between the supply and ground varying the voltage that is given to the wiper.

So here is something I found very interesting. If you check the multiple posts on X-S about the work RCD has done in tracing the controller boards, you will find out that all of the analog controls are tied together and supplied with 1.5VDC. I had hoped this was a pulsed 3VDC signal that normalized to 1.5VDC but its not. The oscilliscope showed a pure DC signal.

It makes sense though. If the controllers are battery powered, you would want to have a regulated source that will not degrade with battery strength. The bad news is that the individual wiper pins of each potentiometer goes straight to the microsoft chip as analog inputs. These input are 99% likely to be using that 1.5VDC regulated supply as its voltage refference. Actually, I could not find any transistors or diodes that supplied this reference voltage and I believe the Microsoft chip itself supplies it. This means that the analog inputs are expecting voltages from 0 VDC to 1.5VDC max. And people are soldering PIC outputs directly to these inputs at 3VDC.

By rhayes33 at 2008-08-13

Can this damage your controller? I honestly dont know. Only a Microcoft applications Engineer can answer that. But common Analog-2-Digital converters are designed to use a reference voltage and do not like having twice that amount pumped into them on a constant basis. This is why so many of the Ebay mods use resistors in series as a cheap protection. I started looking at resistor values to make the desired voltage swing effects when I realised this was just as bad as not using one at all. Even if you use a resistor, the series resistance will change if the trigger is pulled halfway and will have the same effect.

Some designs use transistor to pull the wiper to the supply/ground. This is a much better design to use since you do not exceed the analog input boundries. The only bad part is that transistors use the base-collector voltage to 'turn on' when used aws a switch which means that to pull the wiper to the supply, you collector is floating.

This brings me to the best design choice for manipulating the wiper voltage with no unnecessary current/voltage on the analog input. By using an opto-isolator, you can turn the PIC outputs into isolated transistor outputs.

I have board testing to do next couple of days to prove this. But what this will mean is that one code will fit both baords in both designs (rapid vs sleeper) by only changing the wiring. There will be no need to detect controller type.

Is this really necessary? Maybe not, but I personally would rather spend an extra $0.25 to make damn certain I dont burn out the trigger inputs on my controller.

h311jump3r · « **Reply #42 on:** August 14, 2008, 08:56:27 AM »

Quote from: Hazer on August 13, 2008, 07:15:21 PM

I have board testing to do next couple of days to prove this. But what this will mean is that one code will fit both baords in both designs (rapid vs sleeper) by only changing the wiring. There will be no need to detect controller type.

Is this really necessary? Maybe not, but I personally would rather spend an extra $0.25 to make damn certain I dont burn out the trigger inputs on my controller.

lol, ya, same here. This idea looks promising, but I did find something better online to control the speeds at which you fire...but it would have to be an external device...as soon as I find that link I will post it here...I should have bookmarked it!

KyleP · « **Reply #43 on:** August 14, 2008, 09:53:32 AM »

good luck

h311jump3r · « **Reply #44 on:** August 14, 2008, 10:48:16 PM »

Found it...

http://www.

.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3

Hazer · « **Reply #45 on:** August 16, 2008, 06:14:18 PM »

See first post.

Crazy Germans · « **Reply #46 on:** August 17, 2008, 01:20:59 AM »

wow nice!! Looks like I'll need to be getting myself a programmer. Can someone point me in the direction of a programmer that would work for this and wouldn't be too expencive. And where should I buy the PICs from?

KingMike_OS · « **Reply #47 on:** August 17, 2008, 03:04:39 AM »

programmer "yes it works with the 12F683"

http://www.atvgc.com/shop/details.php?id=10

Pic 12F683 "Type 12F683 in part search"

http://www.vctechnologyinc.com/searchlist.aspx
http://www.digikey.com

Or get free Simple From

www.micochip.com

Winterz117 · « **Reply #48 on:** August 17, 2008, 05:07:05 AM »

with that kit it only comes with the software. i assume that once you connect the pic programmer to your computer there is software needed.where would we get that?

gameroms · « **Reply #49 on:** August 17, 2008, 08:12:58 AM »

google winpic, its only software youll need.

Crazy Germans · « **Reply #50 on:** August 17, 2008, 09:04:13 AM »

Quote from: KingMike_OS on August 17, 2008, 03:04:39 AM

programmer "yes it works with the 12F683"

http://www.atvgc.com/shop/details.php?id=10

What's the ZIF Socket? Should I get that too?

redryno1221 · « **Reply #51 on:** August 17, 2008, 09:37:03 AM »

nice work looks like it's coming along really nicely

gameroms · « **Reply #52 on:** August 17, 2008, 10:22:17 AM »

no need for ziff socket, i didnt get it for my 2, its just something extra. if someone plans to program chips and sell them i reccomend the ziff socket. and like i told mike that site will take 7-10 days to receive, cause there in UK.

OpTiCz · « **Reply #53 on:** August 17, 2008, 11:18:20 AM »

The digital pimp hard at work.

Keep up the good work! Really looking forward to testing.

It would be great if you could post multiple files that perform different functions.
Specifically, having different hex files for different rate for those of us who don't want to put a button on the controllers for selecting the rate of fire. I personally, love the idea of having the selectable rate of fire.

Crazy Germans · « **Reply #54 on:** August 17, 2008, 11:44:49 AM »

Quote from: gameroms on August 17, 2008, 10:22:17 AM

no need for ziff socket, i didnt get it for my 2, its just something extra. if someone plans to program chips and sell them i reccomend the ziff socket. and like i told mike that site will take 7-10 days to receive, cause there in UK.

what's the ziff socket do though?

redryno1221 · « **Reply #55 on:** August 17, 2008, 12:04:36 PM »

Quote from: Crazy Germans on August 17, 2008, 11:44:49 AM

what's the ziff socket do though?

it's just a "better" pic holder that holds the pic's while their being programmed so the pins don't break.....correct me if i'm wrong

h311jump3r · « **Reply #56 on:** August 17, 2008, 12:33:12 PM »

Quote from: OpTiCz on August 17, 2008, 11:18:20 AM

...
It would be great if you could post multiple files that perform different functions.
Specifically, having different hex files for different rate for those of us who don't want to put a button on the controllers for selecting the rate of fire. I personally, love the idea of having the selectable rate of fire.

Yeah, I like it too. But if hazer doesn't want to do it, then I'll take it upon myself to do it. Either by the video I posted at my new site or by code...

gameroms · « **Reply #57 on:** August 17, 2008, 03:19:58 PM »

alot will like the selectable rate of fire, but i see no need in it, i know i would never use it, i would keep it on full speed, thats the point of rapid fire.

h311jump3r · « **Reply #58 on:** August 17, 2008, 03:28:45 PM »

well...that's why it doesn't work in all games...cuz it's too fast. In halo 3...i believe the fastest you can pull the trigger is like 18 times a second (I think that's what it was), and you guys are using 28xsec in COD. So, this can make the rapidfire a universal type of thing....

Back to halo 3, if you use the regular rapidfire with the Assault Rifle, you get staggered shots and some bursts. And with my knowledge of the game and me not sucking in it, well...I can tell you that if two people start shooting at the same time (with AR's), and one of them rapidly presses the Right trigger while shooting, when it gets time to melee, the guy that was pulling the trigger will win due to a few more shots fired out of his gun. So, can you see why this would be helpful in games like halo 3....

basically, when you hold down the trigger, it starts shooting automatically...at a given rate (lets say...8-10 bullets a second). When you pull the trigger, you also shoot an extra bullet or two because you start the automatic fire again in the middle of the last automatic fire....so....it cuts down on the time your bullets are fired...

that is all I got to say on the subject...im watching a movie right now.

Go to http://:censored:.com

(dont betch at me cuz of the link...

just go to it and sign up...)

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Author Topic: Planning Open Source Rapidfire *Update* video (Read 20822 times)

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Author Topic: Planning Open Source Rapidfire Update video (Read 20822 times)