*FIXED* Please help... RB, X, Back and Sync adon't work after rapidfire install/

[Doug0716]

[Posted in another person's thread but no responses so moved to my own thread... sorry about the somewhat double post]

Ugh, I need some help please.

I was installing my "New and Old" chip on an old wireless board... everything went smooth, but I think I burned the chip out near D6 because I was trying to do a sleeper install and now these buttons don't work:

Right Bumper, X, Back and Sync

Pic of D6 area (sorry about the focus... if you need a clearer pic let me know and I'll try again):



After doing some looking at the traces on:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=581887

They all use the same trace to the main chip...

Does anybody know how I can test this theory or fix the problem?

Thanks,
-Doug

[KingMike_OS]

i fix it for $20.00  that includes shipping

just ship me the board

[802Chives]

Hey Doug, sounds like you have a bit of and issue here.  your picture doesn't seem to show anything unusual.  Is there some reason that you think you may have damaged D6?(excessive heat, or discoloration)

Look really close to where you soldered and see if the leg lifted at all.  Try hitting it with solder again.

[Doug0716]

KingMike, thanks for the offer, I may keep an eye open for a used one off eBay, for a few bucks more I could have a spare shell casing in case I screw one up installing buttons.  I'll shoot you a PM if I decide to go the repair route though.

Hey Doug, sounds like you have a bit of and issue here.  your picture doesn't seem to show anything unusual.  Is there some reason that you think you may have damaged D6?(excessive heat, or discoloration)

Look really close to where you soldered and see if the leg lifted at all.  Try hitting it with solder again.

I've hit it with the solder a couple times... it has some slight markings around the edge near the lead I soldered to, so I'm thinking I may have touched it with the iron the first time around.  The reason I'm thinking the part may be bad vs a lifted leg is because the signal going to the main chip seems to be messed up and I'm thinking that's more likely if the chip has a bad output on the lead that goes to the main chip. 

My experience with electrical components is not that advanced, but I do have a basic understanding of most components... just not enough to know exactly what this component is or how to test it... or if my reasoning is even valid as to why I think it's this component.

I'm a bit embarrassed to say that I also tried to mess with "adding extra buttons" and did a hatchet job on that, scraping over into the common ground in two places, but I had already removed those solder joints and re-tested the controller while waiting for the rapid fire chip (and the buttons I was going to use) to come in the mail.  I also did a lot of tracing with the multimeter and all of the buttons seem to trace to where they should, and not to ground when they shouldn't, so I'm fairly confident that isn't my issue.  (Another reason I'd rather get a used replacement off of eBay).

Here is a full pic of the board:

(Photobucket limited the size, Click Here for a rapidshare link to the full size file (3504x2336 @3.6MB).

On a side note: The board seemed to be quite "dirty" with white crap all over it near some of the larger soldering points (as you can see)... not sure what that's all about...

Thanks again guys.

[802Chives]

Ok Doug, sounds like you have trouble shot that board fairly well.  I am going to go out on a limb here and and say that you damaged your controller cpu.  The reason I don't think it is D6 is that if you look at the diagram RDC made here for the wireless matrix:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=512342

If D6 was damaged you would think that D8would also be damaged if it were to act that way, however, It may just be D6, the more that I think about it.

Check and make sure that you didn't knock C54 off the board as well.  Not sure what part D6 is tho, I would guess that it is a dual common anode schottky diode in SOT23 package.  But then again it could be dual common cathode, as well as just being a regualar rectifier vs. a schottky(both would probably work if it is just a rectifier)

If you are an Xbox Scene member try giving RDC a PM and see if he knows what that part is.

At any rate that isn't a part you are going to get at Rat Shack, so you may want to cut losses and just get another controller.

[Doug0716]

Thanks for all the help guys, I figured it out.  As it turns out, some solder had gotten onto the switch and connected one of the two leads on the top to the metal mount... I'm not sure how since I wasn't even working near that, but removed that and looked over the board some more and got it working.

[802Chives]

glad to hear you got it working Doug.