Duel Nub without the Razor

[Markolise]

I was just curious with this, has anyone tried using a PSP Slim replacement nub as a secondary(duel) nub for their psp Phat.

I am looking at doing that as a duel nub since the PSP slim nub is half the height of a phat nub and wanted to get everyone's take on it, or simply see if its been done.

Thanks
Post Merge: November 30, 2009, 01:17:41 AMUgh found this, but I think I can get it working without using the razor board, will have to look at the joystick on my psp when I get home.
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=28920.0
Post Merge: November 30, 2009, 12:59:05 PMOK been doing some research and I studied my PSP a little  (almost an hour)
Don't have pictures of the PSP itself but I do have diagrams I drew up.

First one

Above Explained
The top left image is the d pad diagram and pin-out...
RED is ground
Blue is positives ( I assume)
Yellow are contact points
And Black is the directions
(LT is Left Trigger)

Second image (bottom of the pic)
Thanks to This Tutorial by Electro, I have the Directios and the diagram itself I drew from the full board.
Blue is the circuit
Red are the resistants points, I have a somewhat vague Idea as to how they register based off of position.
To the right of that I have the Associated Directions.


**Now The idea
The basic Idea is to setup the secondary nub to use the D-Pad instead of /\[]OX like other dual nubs
This is specifically personal preference as I usually don't touch the d-pad on most games and want to keep full functionality with the XO buttons.

From my research and a helpful description here I plan on using some NPN resistors to filter as it were the Joysticks Digital signal into a more analog signal. (this is purely because I have all the parts readily available from a previous project, instead of using the Razor X2 board)
Here is the Diagram for my idea (PLEASE let me know your suggestions, I may have it really backwards)

The directions that will be soldered to the D-pad are as shown as well as the association with the pinout of the joystick.

Now this is all still theory as to wether or not it will work, but I'd like any suggestions and help on it.
Post Merge: November 30, 2009, 09:42:16 PMOh forgot to explain the diagram, it was really late when I posted it.
-Basically for the controls the NPN Transistors will need current from both pins required to make it move before sending the voltage to the D-Pad (that is atleast my current understanding for NPN transistors)
Kind of like a simple switch mechanism.

I just have to figure out where I want to solder it to now.
Again please let me know what you think, I could have it all backwards.
Post Merge: December 01, 2009, 01:03:13 PMHmm its been 3 days, I haven't found out any other information against the idea that using the NPN transistors won't work.

I'll be getting in a replacement PSP nub in the next few days so I can start testing this (thats the only thing I lack)

Again I'm open to comments and suggestions
Post Merge: December 02, 2009, 09:06:15 AMOh I was given a good idea today.
One of my co-workers gave me the idea to make the use of the D-pad and the /\[]XO switchable.
I originally wanted just the D-Pad for Armored core Silent Line, but then again I would like to try some of the FPS that don't require the /\[]XO to be Jump and Extra features.
So I'll be wiring in a switch propably on the bottom of my PSP to get the full functionality.

Post Merge: December 03, 2009, 08:15:49 PMNot a single response in 4 days, that doesn't really help me.
Not even the really negative people that just post and say "It won't work don't try."

I find this rather disappointing

[Markolise]

Ok a little explanation of what I've been doing so far.

I got the PSP nub in yesterday, worked on it all night until around 3am central time.
   I found that I had to modify the original PSP nub basically creat a dead spot on the contacts that connect the 1 and 3 pins together, since its based off of resistance, without the dead spot it will never have an off field. I then soldered the 4 wires and proceded with my original plan above.

I have wasn't able to get the NPN transistors to work like I wanted to, however I tried PNP transistors and have attained somewhat the desired effect.

   All this I was testing with a mere 1.5 volt AA battery, I found that connecting the, for example, the 1st and 2nd pin (right direction) together and attaching either orto the base and to the emitter of the PNP transistor reaches the definable direction, with relatively low resistance.
   However if I connect say 1st and 2nd pin together and also connect the 2nd and 3rd pin together I get a constant voltage on the first out put of 0.06volts. At this point I have yet to wire the system to the PSP, its all still on the bread board. At first I wired the connections directly to the transistors, but found that there was a considerable amount of feedback on the opposite connection that the joystick was pointed (For example I push it right the left output gave off the exact same voltage)
   So I then connected the joystick outputs with Diodes attempting to direct the connections, this is where I've come to a stopping point....
Since when everything is all wired up I get that small amount of voltage, 0.06volts from a 1.5volt battery. I'm somewhat at a loss, so now all I need to do is to figure out how to cancel this minute voltage at the same time as making all the appropriate directions.

Again suggestions are welcome.
Post Merge: December 06, 2009, 10:50:25 PMFreaking sweet, so far I got it all working except for the 3rd and 4th set, but I think that has to do with a contact switch issue.

So far this is how I have it wired, I am using one PNP transistor and one NPN transistor, I have the +positive voltage running through the collector of the PNP transistor, then I have the base wired to the first input of the joystick.
I then have the Emitter of that PNP transistor wired to the base of the NPN transistor, from there the 2nd contact is wired to the collector of the NPN transistor.
I then have the output, and its now reading with 0volts when not switched to that direction.

now I just have to figure out why its sending the voltage out on the 3rd and 4th contacts in both directions, connection 1 and 4 only work on the down direction but 3 and 4 work on either, its an issue I need to resolve before I can wire everything up....

Oh yeah and the feedback issue, I had to setup certain connections to connect with certain transistors, if that makes sense....
for example
1 PNP
2 NPN
3 PNP
4 NPN

Hope this helps and is understandable... pics will be later.

[GhoSt]

looks... interesting, get a video of a prototype then more people will comment.

[Markolise]

Yeah I have all the pictures for it now, just working on how I'm going to fit it into the PSP itself... thats a tough one.

I am already having to relocate the female charging adapter to another spot, and I was also going to do the mod to allow longer battery life...but not really sure how I'm going to fit that in there either.

Its definetly a work in progress lol

[~:Dhruv:~]

Very interesting ... good job so far. would love to see the pics

[Markolise]

Default Joystick for the PSP
The Modified PSP Board
Another shot of the PSP Board
Another one, its a little bright though
The circuit with NPN and PNP transistors
Here are a few more shots
Few more
Few more
Few more
The switch I got and a few 10ohm resistors
The PNP transistors I am using, colored red
The NPN transistors I am using, colored green
Just a jumble of the parts

Thats just the small set of images that I took while working on this. Let me know what you think if you have any ideas.

[GhoSt]

very nice, keep it up. Still the problem rises trying to fit it in the psp case since a reg analog cannot fit on the right side, thats why the a2d required the faceplate to be cut. The razor only solved this since it removed all of the X and Y contact slider pieces, making the vertical height of the final analog suitable to fit into the psp.

[spurgurgle]

hmm ok so this isa bit off topic but. doea ant1 recon its worth trying to fit a psp nub to a 360pad as a D-pad maybe. using either this method or with a razer x.

would it work????
is it a good idea?????

[Markolise]

...ok, let me understand what your talking about lol

You want to modify a 360 controller that will use a PSP d-pad instead of the poorly built d-pad on the 360 controller...is that right or is it the opposite?

If that is right then why don't you use one of the d-pads from the playstation controllers, they are alot better than trying to do a psp nub, personally.

To answer your question, would it work... yes anything you set your mind to will work. Is it a good idea, yes to you or someone out there, personally for me I think that would hurt my thumb...

[Modded Matt]

he is wanting to replace the dpad on the 360 controller with a razer nub. it would work. very simple wiring, the shellmodification would be the worst part. I think it may be usefull in like street firghter moves and such, but not super practical in regular gameplay, as it self centers, and you just cant smash the up comaand. as with the nub you start at center and pull it the direction you want to go.

although this spergurgal is considered thread jacking, and if you want to develope this idea further post in r&d and I will help. I have a few nubs laying around anyway.

Markolise, let me know if you would like me to remove these last two posts. I would be glad to if it is disturbing your thread.

[Markolise]

very nice, keep it up. Still the problem rises trying to fit it in the psp case since a reg analog cannot fit on the right side, thats why the a2d required the faceplate to be cut. The razor only solved this since it removed all of the X and Y contact slider pieces, making the vertical height of the final analog suitable to fit into the psp.

I think I have figured out a solution to the fitting problem for the Nub without having to modify the /\[]XO board or switch. There is (and I am guessing on actual measurements) almost 2mm of space below the board itself, which is where the wireless patch antenna is located.
I believe if I relocate the wireless patch antenna to behind the battery then shave off those pedestals I will have enough room using the battery area as a storage area, maybe even have the circuits in there as well.
Post Merge: December 15, 2009, 06:30:25 AMModded Matt, I thank you for your conscern the posts don't bother me at all as it gives me ideas.
But if you want to move them to a separate thread that doesn't bother me.
Post Merge: December 15, 2009, 06:48:20 AMOh I forgot to ask, I am going to need to pull power to my circuit but I'm not sure as to how much power is being used in the d-pad and /\[]XO if anyone knows, I'd appreciate it. If not I'll be looking into that the first thing I'm home...well after food of course

[T4b]

Is this project still alive?

[enhans]

does anybody try to use analog of "Genius Mini MaxFire Pandora Pro" to build it to psp???? (sorry for my ENG)

[802Chives]

Marko did you get this to work?  I think I could help you complete it if you still have it going.

[K.A.O.]

dude you are making the hardest dual nub. havent you come across this before?

https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34880.0.html

or this...

https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,35124.0.html

these are uch easier to do and less technical

[802Chives]

easier for some perhaps, but that is the difference of a mechanical solution vs. an electrical one.

the electrical solution like in this thread has many advantages over Wetfusion's method, not that his method isnt cool in its own rights, but it is a pretty precise mechanical work around and is extremely prone to wearing out.

an electrical solution wouldnt require disassembling the psp analog which is not all difficult to do, but getting it back together working properly can be very tricky.

[Modded Matt]

extremely prone to wearing out.

an electrical solution wouldnt require disassembling .

key point I have notice, as I use my mods as aposed to just showing them off, is that these methods even with the razorx board, tend to wear and become less responcive. I have also found through use that once you take the nub apart, it is never the same again. (it will go back together and work fine, but its just not the same as the factory part)

that being said, if this is a show project, yea take the short cuts. but if this an everyday controller I would sugest proceeding with the electrical means. your so close.