t0pfire install guide

[spurgurgle]

t0pfire install guide

Introduction
in this guide i will be showing you how to install t0pfire into your xbox 360 controller
the code for t0pfire can be found here  https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34437 all credit for the code goes to t0pP8uZz

Parts Needed

• xbox 360 controller
• a pic 12f683 programmed with t0pfire
• 2x100 ohm resistors
• 1x10k resistor
• 2x1N4148 diodes (matrix only)
• 2x330ohm resistors (matrix only)
• 2xtactile buttons (push to make)
• some 30awg wire

Tools Needed

• Solder iron
• Hot glue gun
• Wire cutters
• a 3mm drill (depending on tactile button size)

Difficulty rating: 3/5

Average Time to Complete: 30-45mins

Notes:
Be carefull making sure you get the chip round the right way
and take care not to apply to much pressure when drilling the holes in your case

Step By Step Tutorial
1- use this video by treemty to help you take your controller apart
Xbox 360 Wireless controller dissasembly video tutorial

2- identify which controller type you have by using this guide by gameroms
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,24699.0.html

3-use these wiring diagrams to help along with your install




if you are confident installing t0pfire with only the diagrams there is no need to read on..

but if not heres a step by step guide for you.

extra buttons


First take your to buttons bend the legs flat (be carefull not to snap them off) and solder about 3-4 inches of wire to 2 of the legs (make sure they are 2 on the same side) then twist the first 5-10 mm of wire together for strength


Now decide on your button placement and carefully drill 2 holes for them
glue the buttons in place and route 1 wire from each button to either side of the controller shell.

ok so thats the buttons installed. i will show you where to connect them later in this tutorial.

The chip

first you'll need to program your chip with t0p fire find it here
(insert link to main thread)


we will install the chip in the deadbug position as shown in the picture above

CG install















Matirx install
















ok so that is both install type's complete so test it, close it, and enjoy t0pfire.

here a vid to help you use it

t0pFire v2.0 Revision: 5 - BETA test demostration

FAQ/ Troubleshooting

• As this is a new rapid fire code, i dont no of any problems if it is installed correctly, using this guide. how ever if you do have any problems feel free to ask questions

tutorial by Spurgurgle

[F4thAcE]

gar... im rapidfire retarted failed 555 and finally got it to work got my programmer and chips and now i can't do this either    anyway

Heres my problem: i followed this very well i would think and i tryed it twice on different pads (not matrix) its all clean no shorts nothing is broke but when i turn it on my bottom two leds are on but VERY dim i am using a .05-Amp spst momentary trigger ( http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062546 )

i hold them down and my led goes on and then my LEFT trigger does some crappy rapid fire (like 3 shots a sec) and if i hit the trigger again my lights go dim.. so is it my triggers do i need a true tact trigger like you have or is my code wrong because i am using the programmer that came with my usb-pic programmer give me your thoughts.

the only reason i am using those triggers is because my radioshack does not stock them so i have to order them

thanks in advance

[lakrulez14]

the only thing i can think of is u wired your push buttons wrong when u had to connect them to ground.

as for the led not excatly sure, r u using the rite resistor?

[spurgurgle]

hmmm not sure sounds to me like you may have the pins mixed up..... or the wrong sort of switch...

[FastBrad]

Quick question: I have got everything working and tested all modes on cod5+6. My only issue at this stage is i get a very dim light on pl4 led and when i press tact to turn right trig on the light goes out.The press and hold fuction to swicth between modes works fine but with very faint and dim led.

The left hand side works fine

[spurgurgle]

hmmm not sure what your issue there is mate... as uit say's in my troubleshooting bit at the bottom this isa new rf so i aint come across any issues with it...

but if ya wana post your question here in the main code thread t0pp8uzz may be able to help ya out

[FastBrad]

@ spurgurgle, found the problem.It was a short on my right tactile.  As there has been a few revisions to the hex, i install my loom and everything to an eight pin socket, so if need be I can extract the chip and reprogram code.
 Anyway thanks for the reply.

Oh just quickly I have an intesafire aswell (I apoligise if this should not be said) and this code is faster than it.

Cheers

[spurgurgle]

Oh just quickly I have an intesafire aswell (I apoligise if this should not be said) and this code is faster than it.

Cheers

 

[strangwooduk]

Gaaah !!
i need help
i have downloaded the hex but im trying to program my chip using MP Lab but its always giving me errors
any ideas ?

[Squeck]

Ideas on pic placement when installing it into a socket?

[spurgurgle]

you can fit a pic socket where i placed the chip in the install tut.... just have it rotated 90 degrees or if you rather the socket be on the out side of the controller fit it to the bottom og the battery housing near the mic input

[strangwooduk]

Gaaah !!
i need help
i have downloaded the hex but im trying to program my chip using MP Lab but its always giving me errors
any ideas ?

anyone gonna help??

[Buick455]

I've got my chip programed, and want to start the install but im lookin for a way to remove he chip for updates.. the way the spitfire is done looks decent but anyone have an alt way? maybe less visible?

I dont care if i need to open the controller every time, but the only space i see is the rumble area and i would like to keep them installed

[strangwooduk]

okay what i did was oposite the sync button there is space for a micro usb port
i used a micro usb port and connected it to the chip plug. it then made a cable to go to my pic  programmer with a piic plug on one end and a micro usb on the other
also if you pm me i will put up some pics of where my chip is and what it looks like n stuff 
oh n by the way how did you program your chip ?

[Buick455]

okay what i did was oposite the sync button there is space for a micro usb port
i used a micro usb port and connected it to the chip plug. it then made a cable to go to my pic  programmer with a piic plug on one end and a micro usb on the other
also if you pm me i will put up some pics of where my chip is and what it looks like n stuff 
oh n by the way how did you program your chip ?

Only 4 pins are needed to program the PIC? Which ones?
it can be programed while its wired inside the controller? thats sounds alot better to me then a PIC socket.

[strangwooduk]

i used this to find out which pins were needed to program it........ then made another plug with a Pic plug on the end
so it went with the plug order:
Controller - Pic - Microusb Fem - Microusb Male - Pic Socket  - Pic Programmer

[Buick455]

ok i see what ya did now.. my programmer actually has header pins for ICSP so i just need to hook up the gnd, vcc, clk, dat, vpp to a female connector of some sort (i been lookin for something to scrap parts from all day, lol) you have a pic of it installed in the controller body? (im guessin you arent usein the one upper screw anymore)

[strangwooduk]

i will take some pics tonight
but i am still using the upper screws
took me a while to find a sutible plug then realised there was some good ones in cell phones so i ripped on from there
Post Merge: January 26, 2010, 01:35:52 AMhey you know what i might do people.....
i might make a pcb wth this all intergrated whit resistors and everyting with the outputs soldered to the board and meaybe even a place for a custom repprogram port.....
what you think ???.......would t0pP8uZz mind ?

[Buick455]

you mean like have a pic programer built into the controller?

[Squeck]

ICSP is a very good idea, you may put a female connector on the controller so the pins aren't noticeable.

I'm going to install t0pfire in my matrix tomorrow.

[Buick455]

Thx for the tut spur. worked out perfectly

FYI: chip sockets with the resistors are a tight ing fit

[spurgurgle]

Thx for the tut spur. worked out perfectly

FYI: chip sockets with the resistors are a tight ing fit

no probs mate thats what us in RnD are for.... and i new the socket would fit in there .... evan if it was tight fit lol... did you have to shaveo ut he case at all??? it would be nice to see a pic of the finished install....

[FOOKz™]

What is the part number for the diodes? They look kinda like the Zener 1NXXXX Series Diodes.

Also Whats the Specs for the Push buttons:

[Buick455]

no probs mate thats what us in RnD are for.... and i new the socket would fit in there .... evan if it was tight fit lol... did you have to shaveo ut he case at all??? it would be nice to see a pic of the finished install....

nope didnt have to shave the case, ditch that screw or anything, just had to get the placement JUST right.. (if you look at the top half of the controller you can sorta get and idea of how far from the thumbstick you need to be)

i wasnt able to install my update port due to Jameco flubbing my order to hell (shoulda went strait to mouser).. just went and did it with crap i had in my parts bin.. when i get my parts for the update port or t0p updates the code ill snap some pics.. the controller becomes a puzzle to put back together so i would like to avoid it, lol.. 

Oh, Just incase your reading this and havent done the install yet. Leave the 4 leads from your tacts (2 GND's & the ones to PIN's 4 & 5) LONG (3" or 4" out of the case).. assembling the controller when they are short is a PITA, lol.. I actually re-did them just because of that. and remember hot glue is your friend 

[spurgurgle]

hey fookz the diodes are 1n4148
heres the specs for them

Manufacturer Part No:
    1N4148

RoHS : RoHS Compliant Yes

Description

    * DIODE, HIGH SPEED, DO-35
    * Diode Type:Small Signal
    * Av Current If:200mA
    * Voltage Vrrm:100V
    * Max Voltage Vf:1V
    * Max Reverse RecoveryTime, trr:4ns
    * Max Current Ifs:1A
    * No. of Pins:2
    * SVHC:Cobalt dichloride
    * Alternate Case Style:SOD-27
    * Application Code:HS
    * Case Style:DO-35
    * Current If @ Vf:10mA
    * Current Ifsm:1A
    * External Diameter:1.85mm
    * External Length / Height:4.25mm
    * Forward Current:10mA
    * Forward Voltage:1V
    * Max Current If:300mA
    * Max Junction Temperature Tj:175°C
    * Max Power Dissipation Ptot:500mW
    * Termination Type:Axial Leaded
    * Typ Reverse Recovery Time, trr:4ns
    * SVHC (Additional):Bis (2-ethyl(hexyl)phthalate) (DEHP)


and the tacts are

Manufacturer Part No:
    FSM10JH

RoHS : RoHS Compliant Yes

Description

    * SWITCH, TACTILE, SPNO
    * Series:FSM
    * Switch Function Type:Momentary
    * Contact Configuration:SPNO
    * Max Contact Voltage DC:24V dc
    * Max Contact Current DC:50mA
    * Terminal Type:Through Hole
    * Actuator / Cap Colour:White
    * SVHC:No SVHC
    * Colour:Ivory
    * Contact Material:Copper Alloy
    * Contact Plating:Silver over nickel
    * Dielectric Strength, VAC:500V ac
    * External Depth:6mm
    * External Length / Height:3.61mm
    * External Width:6mm
    * Insulation Resistance:100Mohm
    * Insulation Resistance Voltage:100V dc
    * Material:Nylon 6.6
    * Max Contact Resistance:100mohm
    * Max Operating Temperature:85°C
    * Max Switching Current DC:50mA
    * Min Contact Voltage DC:1V dc
    * Min Switching Current DC:10µA
    * Min Temperature Operating:-35°C
    * No. of Mechanical Operations:100000
    * Operating Force:160gf
    * Shaft Diameter:3.51mm
    * Shaft Length - Metric:3.7mm

[Buick455]

What is the part number for the diodes? They look kinda like the Zener 1NXXXX Series Diodes.

Also Whats the Specs for the Push buttons:

The diode ya need is just like this (I have a CG not the Matrix) just search for 1N4148. Like: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062587

any (ON)-OFF - Push-to-make - SPST Momentary thats 7mm H will work.. i would think higher Operating Force would be good since ya dont want to bump it by accident. like these http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SKHHQYA010virtualkey68800000virtualkey688-SKHHQY
you dont need the ground prong tho.. i buy them like this then cut them off if not needed

(if linkin isnt aloud shout at me, lol)

[FOOKz™]

Thanks guys. And Buick455 Link to parts' pages anytime you need to!

[slippery-beef]

Excellent Rapidfire! Thanks t0pP8uZz and spurgurgle for posting.

But I have got a couple of problems.

I have a CG2 controller with white LEDs installed (Replaced the green ones)

I can turn the controller on and the white LEDs are dim, I can turn Rapidfire on Right trigger fine with bottom right LED turning on (Again dim) Firing the first couple of bullets are slow (Still faster then my finger) and the LEDs go Very dim. After the first few bullets the fire rate picks up and the LEDs get abit brighter.

I thought maybe my battery needs charging? But when I plug the charge lead in, the LEDs are bright but my right trigger doesn't work with Rapidfire OFF, with Rapidfire ON it automatically fires without me touching the Trigger?

What could be wrong? Thanks in advance for your replys!

[spurgurgle]

well first of all the led will be dim as white leds have a forward voltage of about 3.3v and on plug and play battery's you'll only be getting about 2.6v so the led will be dim.... and the strange going ons with the actuall rapid fire sound like..... maybe a faulty ground wire or some form of short.... but i reckon its the ground....

[slippery-beef]

Thanks for the reply.

Ive been having a play with just the charge lead in and no batteries, As soon as I turn ON rapidfire it shoots on its own, When its OFF it shoots every 2-3 seconds.

When I push down on the charge lead with a little force, everything seems to be fine. So i'm going to clean the contacts and re-solder at the joints.

EDIT: Maybe not, its seems, when I squeeze the right trigger pot to the PCB it works perfect with the charge cable? But still works ok with a battery and no charge cable.

EDIT 2: Confirmed! It was the pot not sitting correct, A little adjustment with the solder iron sorted it out.

Thanks again t0pP8uZz and spurgurgle!

[kringle185]

Looks easy enough, nice tutorial. Ive been meaning to do a rapid fire for a while.

One question though, I noticed you solder directly to the chip, that would make it pretty much impossible to reprogram the chip though right? Is there any way that I could set it up in a way that I could take the chip out and reprogram it? For example maybe a code update came out or I wanted to tweak something.

I know it would be cheap enough to just do it again, but for convenience it would be best to have the chip removable or some way to reprogram it with the thing still in the controller.

Thnx

[spurgurgle]

well you can install the pic in a pic socket so its removable... or you could be cheap like me and just remove the chip and clean the legs up so you can re-flsh it with code updates.... either way it'll work fine and you can still flash it..

[jrfhoutx]

or you could connect 5 wires to the necessary pins, run them out to a breadboard and program in circuit...

[Buick455]

well you can install the pic in a pic socket so its removable... or you could be cheap like me and just remove the chip and clean the legs up so you can re-flsh it with code updates.... either way it'll work fine and you can still flash it..

I installed the socket like spur said.. chip comes right out for reprograming (not that i have had to yet) you can put the chip and socket in the same place as spur has it in the tut (maybe a tad closer to the thumbstick, on top of the white nip of the trigger mount)

or you could connect 5 wires to the necessary pins, run them out to a breadboard and program in circuit...

I plan on also adding a port to the controller (when i find one) so i can just connect to the icsp header on my programmer without having to open the damn controller everytime

[UKSYLER]

hi guys , followed this tutorial to the letter i think but once ive put controller back together when i hold the right tactile down to change modes the left led flashes and vice versa the mod seems to be working but not too sure if its 100% correct.

at the begining where it says  route 1 wire from each button to either side of the controller shell,
you do meen for instance say i got a red wire on the bottom pin of tactile and white on top, pull the white one from the left and leave hanging down with the right tactiles red wire and same for right pull the white right one across to the left?

so then which of the 4 wires goes to the ground and which go to the pins 4 and 5?

[spurgurgle]

each tactile needs to be grounded.... and then go to the correct pin on the chip.... its simple...... 2 tactiles .... 4 wires.... 1 wire from each tactile goes to ground..... then the other wires go to the correct legs on the chip....

[UKSYLER]

i think i may have mixed the wires up going to the leds, will open the pad later and have alook and see

[Buick455]

Hey buick could you post a photo of your controller with the icsp socket? thank you and sorry for the off topic

I have it all back together now, but I can tell ya how I did it 

I got my inspiration/stolen idea from RDC at X-S here:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=691809&st=15

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/CGnome/USB.jpg
http://www.cgnome.com/assembly%20pics/Shell%20Mod.JPG
http://www.cgnome.com/assembly%20pics/CGn%20Overlay.JPG

Parts used:
Small scrap piece of perfboard ( http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265183w345.jpg )
Mini USB Female ( like in a camera, cell phone ) mines from a moto razor
5 pieces of 30g hookup wire (dif colors help allot)
Hot glue, and more hot glue

(look at this pic then read below)
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL826/4336175/23002157/383305290.jpg

1. Figured out where the usb jack was going to go. (thx jamz_az & RDC)
2. Grind down square under the place the USB will go (A in pic) might not need it, but I didn’t want it pressing into the controller board
3. Grind tit off inside of controller (B in pic) to make room for the perfboard
4. Cut/drill hole for USB (pic C) to stick out of the controller (MAKE SURE YOU CAN GET A CABLE PLUGED INTO IT W/O THE SHELL IN THE WAY)
5. Cut Perf board into |_| shape for the usb jack to fall into (this peice is just so I could use less glue and not worry about pushing the plug into the controller by accident later)
6. Temp glue the jack to the perf (AWAY FROM THE PINS), then glue the perf to the controller
7. Wire your chip end first... you need 5 wires... PINS 1,4,6,7,8
8. Neatly route the wires close to the chip (By the rumble motor jack) and just dab a glue them so you don’t pull um off. Then twist them into a cable.
9. Cut them about 4 inches too long (so you can open and close the SOB
10. Solder to your USB Jack
(Note: If you’re using a USB cable (not making your own) 1 wire will need to be the shield b/c USB only has 4 wires inside + the shield/ground, I just soldered it to one of the tabs)

That’s it, check with a probe or multimeter. Then glue the hell out of the top of the usb & perf so it doesn’t short against the controller board or move. Also glue your wires about 1/4 “ from the jack (Incase you need to remove it)

Hope this helps, if not just ask

[Squeck]

Many thanks for your explanation, will try it as soon as possible as i only have big usb jacks right now.

closing the controller will be a pain, i never do it right   

[Buick455]

i always forget the rumble motors until im putting in the second to last screw

[t0pP8uZz]

Wasnt keeping track of this thread, if people are adding ICSP, make sure you isolate the programming voltage.

Any bugs, Please dont post here, use the offical t0pFire thead located here: https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34437.new.html#new

[DaDo]

I have it all back together now, but I can tell ya how I did it 

I got my inspiration/stolen idea from RDC at X-S here:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=691809&st=15

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/CGnome/USB.jpg
http://www.cgnome.com/assembly%20pics/Shell%20Mod.JPG
http://www.cgnome.com/assembly%20pics/CGn%20Overlay.JPG

Parts used:
Small scrap piece of perfboard ( http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265183w345.jpg )
Mini USB Female ( like in a camera, cell phone ) mines from a moto razor
5 pieces of 30g hookup wire (dif colors help allot)
Hot glue, and more hot glue

(look at this pic then read below)
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL826/4336175/23002157/383305290.jpg

1. Figured out where the usb jack was going to go. (thx jamz_az & RDC)
2. Grind down square under the place the USB will go (A in pic) might not need it, but I didn’t want it pressing into the controller board
3. Grind tit off inside of controller (B in pic) to make room for the perfboard
4. Cut/drill hole for USB (pic C) to stick out of the controller (MAKE SURE YOU CAN GET A CABLE PLUGED INTO IT W/O THE SHELL IN THE WAY)
5. Cut Perf board into |_| shape for the usb jack to fall into (this peice is just so I could use less glue and not worry about pushing the plug into the controller by accident later)
6. Temp glue the jack to the perf (AWAY FROM THE PINS), then glue the perf to the controller
7. Wire your chip end first... you need 5 wires... PINS 1,4,6,7,8
8. Neatly route the wires close to the chip (By the rumble motor jack) and just dab a glue them so you don’t pull um off. Then twist them into a cable.
9. Cut them about 4 inches too long (so you can open and close the SOB
10. Solder to your USB Jack
(Note: If you’re using a USB cable (not making your own) 1 wire will need to be the shield b/c USB only has 4 wires inside + the shield/ground, I just soldered it to one of the tabs)

That’s it, check with a probe or multimeter. Then glue the hell out of the top of the usb & perf so it doesn’t short against the controller board or move. Also glue your wires about 1/4 “ from the jack (Incase you need to remove it)

Hope this helps, if not just ask

Does this work with the self-made PIC Programmer on first page in this Thread?

I´ve done that to my controller and solder the usb cable to my "Programmer". But it didnt work. The Leds ar flashing but nothing happens. It is so when there is no Pic in it...

Greetz

[Pitsy]

If i wanted it to be a Sleeper could i just solder wires to the Right and Left triggers instead of the buttons ?

[bscottprice]

Awesome guide! This thing is so much easier and smoother than my old sleeper that was attached to my sync button. My friends are all out buying the parts so I can hook them up. Thanks again...great job.

[bscottprice]

Sorry for the double post but i have a weird issue. Ive checked and rechecked all points...but for some weird reason right trigger controls everything. I tested it on two games but an example would be in Saints Row 2 the right tigger normally fires your weapon and the left is your E-brake in your car. Now left does nothing and the right does both. Any ideas?

(This is my third install and the others work just fine)


EDIT: Also, if I turn on the right tact it flips out as if Im pressing the left trigger.


Edit #2: Ok, turns out Im not an idiot. The controller had a bad board. My friend said he "forgot" to tell me he spilled water on it a week earlier.

[Noodles48]

Ok i only have 1 simple question, will this work with a wired controller?
well maybe 2 questions... if so do i need to add different resistors or anything like that?

[Data Hacker]

i installed this and it appears mode 9 is mode 1. it goes from 2-8 then when i try to go back to one it flashes 9 times and then i change to the next mode and it is mode 2. this is not a problem for me since i dont use mode one, but if you do you have to cycle to mode 9. and it makes people think they are in mode 9 not mode 1.

also if you have a rechargeable battery pack and plug the charger in while playing to charge and play at same time then it gets the left trigger stuck on or rapid fire stuck on when rapid fire for that trigger is off. problem because now i cant play my xbox 360 when my battery runs out or i have to use batterys or buy a new rechargeable pack so i can have a charged one if it ever runs out and i still want to play.

other than that works great! tho mode 3 could be a little faster but thats what user programmable mode is for! 


EDIT:

Anyone who has installed this and has the opposite led blinking for the triggers, you wired your buttons to your chip wrong by putting the left switch to the right pin on the chip and the right switch to the left pin on the chip.

if the opposite led is blinking but it works for the correct trigger you wired the leds to the opposite pin on the chip (right led to left light pin, left light pin to right led)

just saying because many people asked me about this irl (in real life)

[cmason]

I'm very new to modding, is it possible to use a NTE brand microcontroller from RadioShack instead of the  pic 12f683?