t0pfire install guide

[kringle185]

Looks easy enough, nice tutorial. Ive been meaning to do a rapid fire for a while.

One question though, I noticed you solder directly to the chip, that would make it pretty much impossible to reprogram the chip though right? Is there any way that I could set it up in a way that I could take the chip out and reprogram it? For example maybe a code update came out or I wanted to tweak something.

I know it would be cheap enough to just do it again, but for convenience it would be best to have the chip removable or some way to reprogram it with the thing still in the controller.

Thnx

[spurgurgle]

well you can install the pic in a pic socket so its removable... or you could be cheap like me and just remove the chip and clean the legs up so you can re-flsh it with code updates.... either way it'll work fine and you can still flash it..

[jrfhoutx]

or you could connect 5 wires to the necessary pins, run them out to a breadboard and program in circuit...

[Buick455]

well you can install the pic in a pic socket so its removable... or you could be cheap like me and just remove the chip and clean the legs up so you can re-flsh it with code updates.... either way it'll work fine and you can still flash it..

I installed the socket like spur said.. chip comes right out for reprograming (not that i have had to yet) you can put the chip and socket in the same place as spur has it in the tut (maybe a tad closer to the thumbstick, on top of the white nip of the trigger mount)

or you could connect 5 wires to the necessary pins, run them out to a breadboard and program in circuit...

I plan on also adding a port to the controller (when i find one) so i can just connect to the icsp header on my programmer without having to open the damn controller everytime

[UKSYLER]

hi guys , followed this tutorial to the letter i think but once ive put controller back together when i hold the right tactile down to change modes the left led flashes and vice versa the mod seems to be working but not too sure if its 100% correct.

at the begining where it says  route 1 wire from each button to either side of the controller shell,
you do meen for instance say i got a red wire on the bottom pin of tactile and white on top, pull the white one from the left and leave hanging down with the right tactiles red wire and same for right pull the white right one across to the left?

so then which of the 4 wires goes to the ground and which go to the pins 4 and 5?

[spurgurgle]

each tactile needs to be grounded.... and then go to the correct pin on the chip.... its simple...... 2 tactiles .... 4 wires.... 1 wire from each tactile goes to ground..... then the other wires go to the correct legs on the chip....

[UKSYLER]

i think i may have mixed the wires up going to the leds, will open the pad later and have alook and see

[Buick455]

Hey buick could you post a photo of your controller with the icsp socket? thank you and sorry for the off topic

I have it all back together now, but I can tell ya how I did it 

I got my inspiration/stolen idea from RDC at X-S here:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=691809&st=15

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/CGnome/USB.jpg
http://www.cgnome.com/assembly%20pics/Shell%20Mod.JPG
http://www.cgnome.com/assembly%20pics/CGn%20Overlay.JPG

Parts used:
Small scrap piece of perfboard ( http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265183w345.jpg )
Mini USB Female ( like in a camera, cell phone ) mines from a moto razor
5 pieces of 30g hookup wire (dif colors help allot)
Hot glue, and more hot glue

(look at this pic then read below)
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL826/4336175/23002157/383305290.jpg

1. Figured out where the usb jack was going to go. (thx jamz_az & RDC)
2. Grind down square under the place the USB will go (A in pic) might not need it, but I didn’t want it pressing into the controller board
3. Grind tit off inside of controller (B in pic) to make room for the perfboard
4. Cut/drill hole for USB (pic C) to stick out of the controller (MAKE SURE YOU CAN GET A CABLE PLUGED INTO IT W/O THE SHELL IN THE WAY)
5. Cut Perf board into |_| shape for the usb jack to fall into (this peice is just so I could use less glue and not worry about pushing the plug into the controller by accident later)
6. Temp glue the jack to the perf (AWAY FROM THE PINS), then glue the perf to the controller
7. Wire your chip end first... you need 5 wires... PINS 1,4,6,7,8
8. Neatly route the wires close to the chip (By the rumble motor jack) and just dab a glue them so you don’t pull um off. Then twist them into a cable.
9. Cut them about 4 inches too long (so you can open and close the SOB
10. Solder to your USB Jack
(Note: If you’re using a USB cable (not making your own) 1 wire will need to be the shield b/c USB only has 4 wires inside + the shield/ground, I just soldered it to one of the tabs)

That’s it, check with a probe or multimeter. Then glue the hell out of the top of the usb & perf so it doesn’t short against the controller board or move. Also glue your wires about 1/4 “ from the jack (Incase you need to remove it)

Hope this helps, if not just ask

[Squeck]

Many thanks for your explanation, will try it as soon as possible as i only have big usb jacks right now.

closing the controller will be a pain, i never do it right   

[Buick455]

i always forget the rumble motors until im putting in the second to last screw

[t0pP8uZz]

Wasnt keeping track of this thread, if people are adding ICSP, make sure you isolate the programming voltage.

Any bugs, Please dont post here, use the offical t0pFire thead located here: https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34437.new.html#new

[DaDo]

I have it all back together now, but I can tell ya how I did it 

I got my inspiration/stolen idea from RDC at X-S here:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=691809&st=15

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/CGnome/USB.jpg
http://www.cgnome.com/assembly%20pics/Shell%20Mod.JPG
http://www.cgnome.com/assembly%20pics/CGn%20Overlay.JPG

Parts used:
Small scrap piece of perfboard ( http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265183w345.jpg )
Mini USB Female ( like in a camera, cell phone ) mines from a moto razor
5 pieces of 30g hookup wire (dif colors help allot)
Hot glue, and more hot glue

(look at this pic then read below)
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL826/4336175/23002157/383305290.jpg

1. Figured out where the usb jack was going to go. (thx jamz_az & RDC)
2. Grind down square under the place the USB will go (A in pic) might not need it, but I didn’t want it pressing into the controller board
3. Grind tit off inside of controller (B in pic) to make room for the perfboard
4. Cut/drill hole for USB (pic C) to stick out of the controller (MAKE SURE YOU CAN GET A CABLE PLUGED INTO IT W/O THE SHELL IN THE WAY)
5. Cut Perf board into |_| shape for the usb jack to fall into (this peice is just so I could use less glue and not worry about pushing the plug into the controller by accident later)
6. Temp glue the jack to the perf (AWAY FROM THE PINS), then glue the perf to the controller
7. Wire your chip end first... you need 5 wires... PINS 1,4,6,7,8
8. Neatly route the wires close to the chip (By the rumble motor jack) and just dab a glue them so you don’t pull um off. Then twist them into a cable.
9. Cut them about 4 inches too long (so you can open and close the SOB
10. Solder to your USB Jack
(Note: If you’re using a USB cable (not making your own) 1 wire will need to be the shield b/c USB only has 4 wires inside + the shield/ground, I just soldered it to one of the tabs)

That’s it, check with a probe or multimeter. Then glue the hell out of the top of the usb & perf so it doesn’t short against the controller board or move. Also glue your wires about 1/4 “ from the jack (Incase you need to remove it)

Hope this helps, if not just ask

Does this work with the self-made PIC Programmer on first page in this Thread?

I´ve done that to my controller and solder the usb cable to my "Programmer". But it didnt work. The Leds ar flashing but nothing happens. It is so when there is no Pic in it...

Greetz

[Pitsy]

If i wanted it to be a Sleeper could i just solder wires to the Right and Left triggers instead of the buttons ?

[bscottprice]

Awesome guide! This thing is so much easier and smoother than my old sleeper that was attached to my sync button. My friends are all out buying the parts so I can hook them up. Thanks again...great job.

[bscottprice]

Sorry for the double post but i have a weird issue. Ive checked and rechecked all points...but for some weird reason right trigger controls everything. I tested it on two games but an example would be in Saints Row 2 the right tigger normally fires your weapon and the left is your E-brake in your car. Now left does nothing and the right does both. Any ideas?

(This is my third install and the others work just fine)


EDIT: Also, if I turn on the right tact it flips out as if Im pressing the left trigger.


Edit #2: Ok, turns out Im not an idiot. The controller had a bad board. My friend said he "forgot" to tell me he spilled water on it a week earlier.

[Noodles48]

Ok i only have 1 simple question, will this work with a wired controller?
well maybe 2 questions... if so do i need to add different resistors or anything like that?

[Data Hacker]

i installed this and it appears mode 9 is mode 1. it goes from 2-8 then when i try to go back to one it flashes 9 times and then i change to the next mode and it is mode 2. this is not a problem for me since i dont use mode one, but if you do you have to cycle to mode 9. and it makes people think they are in mode 9 not mode 1.

also if you have a rechargeable battery pack and plug the charger in while playing to charge and play at same time then it gets the left trigger stuck on or rapid fire stuck on when rapid fire for that trigger is off. problem because now i cant play my xbox 360 when my battery runs out or i have to use batterys or buy a new rechargeable pack so i can have a charged one if it ever runs out and i still want to play.

other than that works great! tho mode 3 could be a little faster but thats what user programmable mode is for! 


EDIT:

Anyone who has installed this and has the opposite led blinking for the triggers, you wired your buttons to your chip wrong by putting the left switch to the right pin on the chip and the right switch to the left pin on the chip.

if the opposite led is blinking but it works for the correct trigger you wired the leds to the opposite pin on the chip (right led to left light pin, left light pin to right led)

just saying because many people asked me about this irl (in real life)

[cmason]

I'm very new to modding, is it possible to use a NTE brand microcontroller from RadioShack instead of the  pic 12f683?