Wired CL (Common Line) Controller Button/Analog Traces

[RDC]

There's a new version of the Wired controller board now, not a Common Ground setup like the New Wireless CG/CG2 are, but it does use a 'Common Line' for all of the buttons (it has voltage on it) and most definitely is redesigned from every other point it could be and has a much lower component count, which means it's cheaper for them to make, but still costs you the same price, nice huh?

TOP



BOTTOM



Just about every button on the controller has a nice TP spot to hit, except LB and RB for whatever odd reason.


TP2 - Mic (Headset)
TP4 - Common Line for Buttons, 1.8v
TP5 - AN+, Analog Voltage, 1.6v (Switched)
TP6 - LED + D1, D2, D3, D4
TP9 - LT
TP10 - RT
TP11 - RSY
TP12 - RSX
TP13 - LSY
TP14 - LSX
TP24 - D3 LED -
TP25 - D1 LED -
TP26 - D4 LED -
TP27 - D2 LED -
TP29 - LSC
TP30 - RSC
TP31 - LSC
TP32 - DL
TP33 - DU
TP34 - DR
TP35 - DD
TP36 - Common Line for Buttons, 1.8v
TP37 - Common Line for Buttons, 1.8v
TP38 - Y
TP39 - A
TP40 - Start
TP41 - Back
TP42 - Guide
TP43 - B
TP44 - X
TP100 - Ground
TP101 - Ground
TP102 - Ground

[Bruno]

Hello there!

I have succesfuly used this home-made rapidfire chip (see schematics and tutorial below) on the wireless Xbox 360 and Xbox One controllers:

http://cdn.instructables.com/FTR/2934/HV9I4RXK/FTR2934HV9I4RXK.LARGE.jpg
or
http://www.instructables.com/id/Xbox-360-Rapid-Fire-Modification/#step1

The chip work its magic between the buttons and the ground in the wired boards.

THIS IS MY QUESTION: is it possible to use this chip to rapid fire the "B" button in the "Wired CL" version???

There is one "trigger button" solder point on the chip, but is there a point to solder the "Common Line for Buttons, 1.8v"??

Tks!!

[WHITE 4ND N3RDY]

I'm not sure if that would work on the buttons. I know on the 360 controllers the triggers are analog signals and the buttons are digital. Basically it will work in reverse order. When the tact is pressed on the trigger it will force pull and release. On the button I believe it will force it to pull when the tact isent pressed. Its basically works in opposite to the triggers.

I'm just hypothesizeing what may happen. I'm sure someone else can better Awnser your question. I still believe it will cause your buttons to think there being pressed when your not even touching the tact. Until the tac is presses then it will think its being released then pressed again.

[RDC]

If you're trying to make the actual B button cRapid fire, that's more work that making an alternate Tact button do it, but either way it can be done.

The Wired CL controller does not use active Lo buttons like the Wireless CG, ground to activate. The buttons of the Wired CL are active Hi, 1.8v to activate.

A typical 555 timer (TTL) will not run off of a 1.8v power source, and you don't really want to be injecting a 5v pulse onto the 1.8v button line as it could damage the MCU.

The CMOS version of some 555 chips, LMC555 for example, will run down to 1.5v though and could be used. Not all CMOS versions are rated for that low of a supply voltage though, so check the DataSheet.

Now, if you're using an alternate Tact to do the button mashing, then just build the circuit and have the output run thru the Tact to the B button line. Tact not pressed the B works normally. Tact pressed that's your B, B, B, button.

If you want the actual B button on the controller to do the B, B, B when it is pressed, then you have to sever the COM trace of the B button and wire the LMC555 output to that half of the B button. Then when the actual B button is pressed you'll get the B, B, B. You can also use a SPDT switch there so the B button can be made to work normal or cRapid fire.

[Bruno]

Tks AGAIN RDC!!! You are the best! It worked!

I used an alternate tact to duplicate the "B" and connected it through the new circuit to the "TP43 - B" on the circuit board and worked just fine!

Later on, I will post some pictures.

Tank you very, very much!

[WHITE 4ND N3RDY]

Glade to hear u got that working! Sorry for any misguidance on my behalf, this subject is defenetly not my expertis lol. My area is making mods and am fortunate to have software programs (thanks sethmods) to bring opensourse codes for diy modders.

I personally love the 555 timers, they are fun to build and work on. Please do post pics as I'm sure we all would love to see them.

[Bruno]

No problem WHITE 4ND N3RDY! Tks anyway

As soon as I get home, I will post the pictures

[Bruno]

[Lakis]

Hi. where is the trace from xbox 360 controller board trigger? can helping to found and soldering? this is the photo from my controller board and 3 pin trigger.

[Peloquin]

Hi,

can someone please report TP for usb wires ?
I inadvertently removed the copper from the PCB!
I need TP for D- at least (white wire)

https://imgur.com/a/TtJtyLW

Thank you!

[RDC]

There are no TP spots for the USB data lines. The left side of R5 is the closest place to be able to solder directly to. I'd just move to the other side of the board and carefully scrape away the masking of the outer ring for that via there and put a thin wire in there and solder it to rebuild that connection Then wrap the other end around the lead from the connector and solder it. It doesn't have to be a heavy gauge wire for the repair like the cable is. Just a single strand of wire just large enough to fit thru the hole of the via there is more than enough for that line. That will keep the repair as short as possible since USB is a differential pair, but even if you just jumper wire it around the board I doubt you'd notice any issue from it.

[Peloquin]

Thank you, it worked!

[RDC]

Welcome.

[Peloquin]

Hi,


can somebody tell me the values ​​of the resistor r4 and r5 ?


Thank you.

[RDC]

R4 and R5 are both 22 ohm.

[Peloquin]

Thank you.

[cn0098]

I lifted all of my USB pads while attempting a USB type C mod install. Got this exact board, but it seems like there's no TP for the USB lines... is there a way of repairing it (could you point out where the scrapping off should be made in order to bridge this)?

[RDC]

The vias for D+ and D- are right above the pads you removed or use the left side of the Resistors R4 (D+) and R5 (D-) on the other side.

[cn0098]

This is my current progress. I must admit, it's not as clean as I had hoped, but this is how it stands now, so no turning back.

I also accidentally cut the VCC line in half while being a bit too rough with the cutter (oops, smh)...



So now, the plan is to set up a jumper wire from one side to the other of the VCC line. Instead of just scraping off one section for the VCC, there will be two, one above and one below the lifted pad.





Finally all of it would be tied to the 2.54mm pins from the USB-C mod piece. In the end in theory this is a good thing because the pins are much easier to wrap around with a jumpwire and solder to. But i'll need some more tools to do this. It turned out to become a much harder mod than it should've been.