Plug 'N' Play Speaker Mod

[Nefarius]

This concept came to me when I broke my UMD Door on the PSP I am going to mod. I didn't want dust to come into my psp and ruin it a bit so I decided to make a Backplate (atm a torn to shreds umd case, will be 1mm plexi) to fit inside the umd compartment. I made a few prototypes and discovered a few things.

- I could mount my 50mm Speaker onto the backplate by making a hole in the middel with the size of the speakers magnet.
- I effectively created enough space for about 8 LM386 chips
- I created an easily accesable place for if something would go wrong it can be easily repaired
- and lastly I effectively shortened the paths to all the soldering points you need, which means less wires running over your mobo.

So last night it occurred to me that I might have stumbled upon a new way of hooking up an extra speaker, without the need to dremel out your umd door. Disgarding that as a minor advantage I realised this could be made into a newb friendly PnP system. Why?

- You'd only have to remove the umd innards
- We provide the Backplate + Speaker which has a LM386 Amp already soldered in between them.
- You'd only have to solder to 4 points: Gnd, 5V, Neg & Pos
- You'd be able to click the backplate in, solder it to the designated spots provided with a picture of the available mobo's
- Re-instal the door and turn on your psp.

Easy as 1,2,3! I've also been trying to think of a way that you dont have to solder at all. Using small magnets to keep the wires in place perhaps?

Anyway I'd love to know what you all think & if this could really work. I know I am defo gonna do it on my 1000, even going to place 4 LM386's on the backplate!

So... Whadda ya think fo that! :3


Edit: Will add a few photo's when I have charged my cams battery! xD

Edit #2: Here are some pictures!
This is how far I've came so far. It fits only in a 1000 atm.

[FOOKz™]

Dude this mod is starting to look Crispy!

I have never seen a mod before with the OP amp chips sown through the plastic Which it makes it look twice as B/A after.

The LM386's let me guess they are for a UV mod or the amplifier?

[PspKicks316]

Impressive. I can see this going somewhere good.

[Nefarius]

LM386 usages:

- For the Amp
- Ring of Light
- Left trigger + speaker holes
- Right trigger + Speaker holes

And I haven't been able to figure out how to connect the LM386 to the VU Chip, it needs one since I will be using White Leds and they drain quite a bit of power.

The VU Chip itself will be places ontop, yes you read it correctly ontop of the MS instead of underneath it. I'll make a pic of that aswell and if yer wondering what those 3 pins sticking up are, thats the PNP Transistor :3

Next step is ordering my final parts:

- 10k Potentiometer
- 470uf/100V Capacitor (although I might go for a 100uf one since these are smaller and might fit better, don;t want to give up quality so I might end up ordering both and trying them out)
- Probably a resistor pack with different values
- 4 Pin Dipswitch
- New Mobo >.<'

But atm I'll try to design my Backplate with everything installed (even the monstrously big Capacitor). I'll also try to design the schematics for all of my mods.

Oh and before I forget, Hawk is connecting the PNP Transistor to the Power LED Drive Transistor Any heads up on where that might be on a Phat Mobo?

Update: There no way in hell I am able to put a 25mm × 22mm Capacitor in my psp. Any other good, solid capacitors to smooth out the output of the LM386?

[FOOKz™]

Still working on your schematics. They will be posted tomorrow i promise.

Sorry i couldn't get it done today the art comp end tomorrow and i had to finish some stuff.

BTW:
I use LM339 for any UV sound reactive mod.
I usually use 741 OP amps for an amplifier
The 386 and 741 can be interchangeable.
Which means the 339 is also interchangeable, but with a different pinout.

** The diagram will use 386 OP amps since you have quite the stock

EDIT: Working on this currently

EDIT: Done, works just fine bread boarded it and it works beyond human audible frequencies.

[FOOKz™]

bump. Check the edit.

[Nefarius]

Oops sorry, read the schematic. I tried to simplify it to what is shown below.

Since the PSP has a supply voltage of 5V I take it I need a 470uF 10V Capacitor at pin 5? Also the 470nF Capacitor is at 10V too?

Whats the value of the Capacitor on pin 2? 100uF / 10V?

About the Resistor, what would be the best setting for the 50mm speaker & for the psp speakers?

And would I need 1 for every speaker?

[FOOKz™]

The capacitor on pin 2 is preference range.

just use any capacitor thats at least twice the supply voltage rating.
 - Reason why: AC sound waves' current is 70.7% larger than DC current. AC electricity runs at a 45^o of it's phase angle.

So its just basic Pythagoras's theorem: (1^-1 + 1^-1)^-1 = sin(45) = 0.7073 added onto the RMS value.

So 70.7% of [5 Volts RMS] is [3.53 Volts Peak], then add VRMS + Vp you pretty much get double... [8.53 Volts RMS Average]

=================================

High value capacitor means relatively high DC gain.
Having High DC gain can overheat the 386. So I prefer 100uF.

Yes your schematic is pretty simple, its always good to redraw things to help yourself understand them. The way i have it drawn is to my preference, its good to know we are on the same page.

==================================

Yep. 1 of these circuits per speaker.

==================================

The impedance tweaking resistor is just an AC feedback bypass that filters out mini spikes of unwanted noise. just make that resistor between 15 ohms and 12 Ohms because we aren't trying to attenuate our signal. Bunch of stuff that's hard to explain. (basically stick a 12 Ohm resistor in there and forget about it xD)

==================================

Please make sure these ground connections are together


** NOT DONE YET ='(

[Nefarius]

Gonna design my backplate now. Total count of LM386's that I am going to use: 6

5 Amps for the speakers and 1 on my ROL. Don't think it needs one since I'll connect them in paralell but just in case. Not going to use them on my SR LEDs. Apparantly a Phat Mobo has enough juice in it to light them properly.

Edit: So pin 4 & the NEG of the potentiometer are connected to the NEG of my 50mm speaker? The potentiometer is also connected to the NEG point on my Mobo?

or

Is Pin 4 connected to gnd, the NEG of the 50mm connected to gnd & the 12 Ohm resisor, the potentiometer connected to gnd & to the NEG on my mobo?
Post Merge: February 16, 2010, 03:10:01 PMOh and before I forget. Whats the use of the 20k Linear potentiometer? To tweak each individual speaker to its maximum gain?

[FOOKz™]

Ok, to calculate impedance its an imaginary number term that is the sum and quotient of Resistor-Capacitor-Inductor circuits.

An imaginary number type deal that basically runs impedance is a thing called reactance from the frequency of an AC wave.

An AC waveform fully completes a cycle after 360^o since AC normally is a circular motion as in a parabolic, non-linear fashion.

What does it all mean?
Well I think i have said this all before but I'm going to say it again because its very important.

Lets not start on multi-step equations for sound waves since i am lazy so lets only make an example for 1 frequency. Lets make out frequency 678 Hertz or 678Hz. The 678Hz means the AC switches to positive and negative 678 times per second.

AC is a circular motion in electricity, well relatively speaking so lets assume its a perfectly round AC Frequency at 678Hz.

AC electricity is the ONLY type of electricity that will pass through a Capacitor.

So lets setup a small diagram:


to find reactance (XC) you have to use the formula:
XC =       1     
       2(pi)(F)(C)

Look familiar? yes this formula uses surface area of a circle the 2(pi)

(pi) = 3.141592654
(F) = Frequency, In this case, 678Hz
(C) = Capacitor Value

Plug you info in the equation

XC =                    1                 
        2(3.14159)(678)(0.00001)


XC = 46.948 Ohms

This is how much the Capacitor REACTS to that specific frequency.

Realistically a capacitor is supposed to be infinite resistance, since no REAL current passes through the component itself. Voltage can be stored on the behalf of a capacitor in 5 time constants, however, this only applies to exponential DC circuits.

Think of a capacitor as a resistor to AC but Super High resistance to DC. DC Will NEVER pass through a capacitor. Because DC is OHz (Zero hertz) you plug it into the equation, you tried to divide by zero Its not possible.

XC =                 1                   
         2(3.141592654)(0)(.00001)

XC = Can't Do it.

Realistically a few electrons do beat the odds and make it across but i'm talking about femtoamps of current: 0.0000000000001 of an Amp that will cross. I pretty much call that nothing.





When a resistor is thrown in there you start to do funky things to the circuit since a resistor isn't "racist" against the type of electricity it drops voltage; you will be combining Kirchhoff's voltage laws to an AC circuit which doesn't use conventional RMS type voltage we are all used too.

If you look that the schematic above, the voltage is shown in RMS and a new form called P-P which stands for Peak to Peak voltage. An AC sine wave have two polarities that are never simultaneously on ether 1 or the other because it flows in an elliptical motion.

In reality this sits on the x-axis of any plane horizontally, impedance however sits at a 45^o between a y-axis and x-axis. The half power point is 70.7% percent of the P-P wave to get RMS.

Volts RMS = Volts P-P * .707
- or -
Volts RMS = Volts P-P * sin(45)

Just the Opposite...

Volts P-P = Volts RMS * sin(45)^-1
- or -
Volts P-P = Volts RMS * 1.414

Ya Digg?

Check this Diagram of an AC wave:




To find the impedance of a circuit (Z) you have to do some Pythagorean theorem to find the phase relationship to convert real numbers and imaginary numbers together.

Impedance Formula:


Here is Proof of the impedance on a graph:


============================

Ok now to calculate some real numbers!

Heres a schematic diagram of the situation:


Stuff to Calculate --

Volts RMS Supply = 7.07 Volts RMS
XC Reactance = 1.963 Ohms
VR Volts Across Resistor = 7.008857 Volts RMS
Z Impedance = 221.9183 Ohms
Volts Across Capacitor = 0.0622 Volts RMS



Formulas:
volts RMS = 10v P-P * .707
volts RMS = 7.07 Volts RMS


XC =                   1             
        2(3.1415926)(345)(0.00047)

XC = 1.963 Ohms


VR = I_total * R

I total = Vt / (Rt^-1 + XC^-1)^-1    **[NO]
I total = Vt / Z     **[YES]

We need to Find Impedance First.... =(


                       
Z = V  1.963² + 220²
Z = 221.9183 Ohms

Time to find I_total...
I_total = Vt[RMS] / Z
I_total = 7.07 / 221.9183
I_total = 31.85mA (0.03185 AMPS)

VR = I_total * R
VR = .03185 * 220
VR = 7.008857 Volts

OK now to find the voltage dropped by the capacitor's reactance using Kirchhoff voltage laws. Kirchhoff's voltage law states that then sum of all the voltage drop is equal to the supply voltage, so.... the voltage dropped across the Resistor is 7.008857, and supply voltage is 7.07... so just subtract...

V Supply - VR = VC

7.07 - 7.008857 =  VC

VC =  0.0622

The Capacitor Drops 0.0622 of RMS Volts.


=================================

Theres more in-depth with wave phase relationships and arc Tangents that are just not necessary for anyone around here. So yeah there you go.

This is Trigonometry in a nutshell. Enjoy.
Post Merge: February 16, 2010, 06:39:05 AM
yep The 20K Linear Pot is to adjust the gain.

[Nefarius]

Hmmm... Needs some testing on max volume to determine the best setting I supposebut then I can basically hide them in my psp, am I right?

Oh and went for 470uF/16V Capacitor, its still small enough to fit on my backplate & also cool looking xD

I can't wait to see what its gonna look like xD

[FOOKz™]

Dude i designed this circuit last week, I bread boarded it yesterday it works fine. Very loud at max volume you may consider a larger pot if you want lower volume.

I prefer my 20K design over anything out their since it give the max boost in audio gain and high control.

Honestly, how many of the speakers are you going to attach to The PSP? All 5 of them?

Edit: actually i think the UV meter will look more bad ass or maybe some LEDs behind the 386 Chips to show it off more make it look like the chips are glowing.

And dude that whole "waste of time nerd math" post that everyone is gonna be like WTF Fookz... did that answer your question... why the resistor and capacitor are in series with each other to match impedance?

[Nefarius]

Yes I am gonna hook up all 5 of them, each with their individual OP Amp, with the pot set to max.

And yes you did answer my question about why they are set up in series, stupid but I did understand enough of it to know why.

I dont have room for anything on my backplate anymore :P Its gonna look so cool xD Think I'll paint the plexi green to mimick a pcb xD... If I paint the bottom green & make small holes underneath the chips I might get some green leds & make it glow. Omg... Its gonna be kickass!

About the UV Meter, yer still working on that? Cause I uploaded my schematic, but don't know if its correct.

Edit: Can I paint the electronic parts... Ifso I'll paint them black, paint underneath the plexi & make my LM386 chips glow XD

Lets be honest... I'm putting so much crap in my psp its gonna be gaining weight like me when I enter a pastry shop!

[FOOKz™]

sometimes people should think the other way around...

instead OMG w00t I got lots of cool mods and ideas to shove into my PSP.

Then its Dude my mods that i added are heavier than the PSP itself lol.

So why not mod a speaker and attach a PSP to it? lol just a thought xD

Yes i am working on a UV meter.

[Nefarius]

Well isn't that what were doing? I mean EQ + Amp + Speaker = A big modded speaker with a Playstation attached to it xD

Note: See that? I left the P for Portable out cause it wouldn't be that Portable anymore XD

[FOOKz™]

A PlayStation attached to a sub woofer. Wow Dude...

Maybe this will need a second battery if you think about it a bit.

[Nefarius]

It won't draw power drom the psp, its plugged into a 230V wallplug.... But thats an awesome idea aswell! Perhaps a rechargeable industrial battery? Something like a car battery?

Just to make sure we are on the same wavelenght. We are trying to built an Amplifier into the existing Alecto EQ + speakers/tweeters/subwoofer?

Or

Are you reverse engineering the Alecto EQ & then combine the two to one big watercooled monster!  :3

[FOOKz™]

Its actually not water they use for "water cooled" systems they use mineral oil instead since it doesn't conduct when spilled, evaporate, or ruin components if spilled.

I Prefer air cooled myself but its doable liquid cooled.

Yep I'm reverse engineering the Alecto. Its being made out of digital controls for each frequency control and I am estimating my version will use 8 times as many components overall. Digital control readouts for each frequency when you tune perfectly. Maybe soon when im done I will add PICs to have "your favorite" equalizer settings almost like a badass, realistic version of the equalizer on Winamp or Windows Media Player.

[Nefarius]

Awesome! Will I be able to make it or will I pay you for parts, shipping & building hours :P? Omg I can't wait! My Granddad has some half decent speakers left, think I'll use those!

And FOOKz I know you get this all the time, but yer awesome & I hope you have fun making it all :P In the mean time I need another mobo QQ

Edit: Emergency backlight soldering without tape will ruin yer mobo *sigh* Again xD

[FOOKz™]

Don't worry I already have all the parts... =D
(Always 100% stocked, never build something until you've checked inventory)

but ill take some free money... lol j/k no

I'm on call on Thursdays and Fridays so i really have no good time to goof with my electronics i just veg out and play some halo.

[Nefarius]

So, what do I do :P? Cause I highly doubt I'll be able to reproduce it XD and I'm broke atm, can't even order my parts for the 5 Amps. Damn recession.... Btw wanna see my mock up on how full my Backplate will be?

And can I use this Pot? http://www.display.nl/Potmeters-knoppen/Potmeter-instel/Potmeter-instel-95mm-25-slag-verticaal/3296W001.203.html

[FOOKz™]

I feel like i am enabling you... yes.

But it will be a pain to adjust it since you need a screwdriver to operate it.

Setting potentiometer cermet Bourns 25 strokes - vertical operation - 20K - 500mW

I recommend this one instead even though its more expensive:
http://www.display.nl/Potmeters-knoppen/Potmeter-meerslagen/3590S002.203.html


(Google translate is the best)

[Nefarius]

Thats why I got the ones with the screw thing at the top, so when I open my umd door I can adjust them. Plus I aint that rich :P Also I don't plan on changing the settings that much ^^

Enabling me :P In doing what XD?

[FOOKz™]

Enabling me :P In doing what XD?

Don't worry about it.

[Nefarius]

Alright! Now yer scaring me :P Anyway I'll wait and see. Oh and do you have a heads up on how it might look like? Since I'd like to start on designing a plywood casing, with speakers & the PSP frame I already uploaded earlier

[FOOKz™]

i dont want to sound like a douchebag... but i am.

Ok what i mean by enabling you would be if you ask about every little detail. That's ok but if your really unsure if something isn't going to work then ask because asking questions is a sign of immense intelligence and future leadership.

But honestly you asked about a Pot that fit the specs 110%...

It just wasn't my recommendation to use the cheap one... but it will work as good as the expensive one.

I would understand sometimes of you couldn't find a 20K pot and you wanted to substitute it for a 35K pot then thats Ok, (you can't substitute it BTW).

So yeah i just hate being an ass when you needed help.

[Nefarius]

Its in my nature to be curious and its always fun to learn new things. I think its really cool that you are taking the time to explain everything to me even when its about the smallest of things. Anyway I'll leave you to it.

Think I'll prepare my 2 LM386 with LEDs & Resistors. Shame I need to fit them underneath my MS Compartment, otherwise they will be all exposed ontop of my backplate instead of having it neatly underneath it. Meh, I'll see what I can do xD

[FOOKz™]

Thats whats wrong with this world, we need more people like me.


EDIT: gettin a High def camera soon to demonstrate it.

Plus i got an equalizer circuit on the ready with digital 4066 bilateral switches to control everything and some 4029 presettable up/down counters for each control circuit. 4029's are expensive and i only have 4 of them since they are expensive. ($5.00 each or about €4.00)

[Nefarius]

As I was trying to go to sleep last night I had some ideas in making it "Portable" again. Isn't there some sort of rechargeable battery? Perhaps a Car battery of some sorts on which we, meaning you, can hook it up to and still be able to charge the psp aswell? Don't have a clue if a battery could even power the AMp/EQ/PSP.

Also I came up with a circular design for everything. Going to try and make some plans for its design.

Oh btw whats your pref Water Cooling or Fan cooling? If you go for  Water Cooling you'd have more speakers, if you go for Fan Cooling you'd lose 1-3 speakers since they will take the place of them.

Lemme hear yer thoughts on it!

Edit: The EQ will be digital, I got that. How will the exterior of it look like? Cause I have no idea. Turn switches like a volume button on a speaker? I want to start being creative on my end :P

Edit2: Built in Radio... *pwetty pwease* Rip open a World Receiver Radio & hook it up xD

Edit3: Will these work http://shop.conrad.nl/auto/autohifi-luidsprekers/autohifi-inbouwluidsprekers/378212.html If so... I'll get 8 *cough*

[froggy]

Fans Would Be Better

[FOOKz™]

Radio? Sure why not.

And I think I found our Battery: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-CPI100B-Cordless-Supply/dp/B000SZVMRW
Its a 120v Power Inverter and has 5 Volt USB power to charge it.

Fans will be better, water cooled you will need a pump.

I have no idea what the exterior will look like so heres a mockup:

[Nefarius]

Alright! Yeah I guess that battery will work properly and did you have a look at those speakers? Cause If I get 8 of them I have 1134 square cm of room ontop, thats a circle with a diameter of 38 cm.

Please give me a heads up, then I will start building the case tomorrow

[FOOKz™]

You should design your case yourself since i'm not building one.

I already made an aluminum case for my amplifier... the dimensions aren't as strict. The dimensions i have for my power amp is about the size of a typical car stereo amp (18cm X 15cm X 4cm)

The reason why mine is so big is because i have an air filter and huge heat sinks on Large MOSFET transistors that take up 50% of the case, if you use a few 386'es then it saves space but it will still need to be cooled down with a fan.

I believe it will fit in something similar to the size of a PSP, maybe you could come up with something that you could Velcro the amp and speakers to the back of it for easy access and removal.

my guess is that it will be 2.5cm thick at it's minimum and 8cm long at 4cm wide Im not sure.

[Nefarius]

I am making my own case, only mine will house about 8 car speakers, only if you say it can, plus if I make my case it'll be so damn big I'll have enough room for an entire village of elfs! jk jk But it will be a monster.

Plus when you are done designing I could make a replica of it aswell. My version that I want won't be so portable anymore.

The other smaller version I am working on will be installed into the umd compartment, it sort of clicks in. With the speakers at either side.

Anyway have a look at the speakers I linked. If those will work, I'll be as happy as a pickle in a jar xD

[FOOKz™]

sure they can work.

[Nefarius]

Gah! I keep breakling my plexiglass backplate! So frustrating, but atleast its getting there. Will try again tomorrow & the picture I made before it broke... It wont upload, something about upload space is full. Anyway I'll update tomorrow!

[FOOKz™]

put scotch packing tape over your line to cut and move the saw very slowly when cutting plexi glass. when it beaks in the PSP just get a thicker kind. 12mm (1/4 inch) thick.

i use something thats thicker than 2.1mm (appx. 3/8 inch) thick on xbox360 mods. So something about 12mm is strong enough for a PSP because its so small.

[Nefarius]

So yeah, I've been sick for almost 2 weeks now and I'm just about getting better! Hooray! I've still got loads to do. I recently made most of my backplate. Cut the holes etc etc. I just dont have a glue gun, pisses me of cause now I cant keep my wiring nice and tidy. Its gonna need some decent wiring you can take that from me. Also I need a new soldering tip, need to get it this week too.

2 weeks ago I started on my casing to house the AMP/EQ & 8 car speakers. Its massive! And I am afraid its going to need a wallplug thingamajig. It probably zerges thru power. Also I've decided Fan cooling would be the best thing to do. Just because water cooling is so damn expensive & the pump wont fit in. Only thing left for my housing is to work the plexiglass sheet, drill the holes, foam it up & cover it in speaker fabric.

And wait for the schematics from FOOKz for the EQ/AMP ofc.

Oh and here's FOOKz simplified schematic.

[FOOKz™]

I forgot to Label the ground, Ground of this circuit is PIN 4 on the 741.

[Nefarius]

So yeah I broke my wrist yesterday... Can't really do anything for the next couple of months. Hooray fro drunken antics!

[Nefarius]

I've been working on a 1 Amp version of this mod and I want it to be as simple as possible. So that it can be sold in a store and that its easy enough to hook up without any soldering skills.  Basically you buy a fully functioning backplate which has a 50 mm speaker mounted + the components for the Amp. The only thing you'd have to do is hook it up and be done with it.

The designing of the Backplate was rather simple since it only has 1/5 of the components of the PnP Mod I am making for myself. All the wires are nice and tidy & I'm pretty sure I'll be able to make the first one pretty soon.

The only thing I still haven't been able to solve is how the hell can I hook it up without the need of soldering.

I've got it to the point that you only need to:
- Remove the faceplate
- Remove the screen
- Remove the UMD door
- Remove the UMD Laser (hence you need to remove the
  faceplate in order to unhook some flexcables.)
- Re-use the screws+rubbers of the UMD Laser.
- Pop the Backplate in + UMD Door

And then I'm stuck. Since you need to solder 4 wires to 4 different spots on the Mobo. Namely to the GnD, Neg, Pos and 5V.

After a long gaze upon my psp I noticed the Headphone jack and started to think.

What if I can hook the speaker up to it? I mean it should be possible to wire it to a 3.5 mm stereo audio jack.

I haven't come to the point that I wrecked a Jack to see its inner workings, but its probably 3 different wires for Gnd, Pos, Neg. Which means I'd only need to find a way to power the whole thing.

I'd really like to know what you lot think of it or come with a solution for the 5V spot.

[Nefarius]

Name: Nefarius
Hobby: PSP Modding
State of Mind: Scared :censored:eles

I can get started. All my planning, bugging FOOKz, all the drawings I made to know how to do it.

You're probably wondering what I am going on about. Well I've gotten my last and final paycheck from my last job. Which grants me the ability to buy the last things I need in order to start finishing my PNP Speaker Mod.

I will finish my own mods first on my PSP. Then I'll try to make the above 1 Amp/Speaker more user friendly, but as of now. I'm officially scared :censored:eles.

I have a few things that still need sorting out:

- Fit in 1 last Capacitor.
- Produce the 5 Amp Backplate that I'll be using
- Order my last few parts
- Hook everything up

But I think I won't be able to do it... There are so many wires I have to solder. So many wires... I've only recently begun understanding of how much crap I need to fit onto a piece of plastic which is only 7cm × 6.8cm and has a 50mm Speaker fitted in the middle. 25 Bloody components and I have 1 left to fit in.

*sighs*

Once I have produced the final backplate and glued everything in place I'll make a photo so you will understand what I am working with.

Cheers for now!


Post Merge: May 25, 2010, 07:57:49 AMJust to give you an idea of what I need to do.

Oh btw if anyone knows a sturdy yet flexible material that is non conductable please let me know. Plexiglass isn't working for me. Even the ridiculously thick plate.

The picture shows all my components (-4 pin dip switch, I lost it...) and how its placed onto the UMD door of a psp 1000. As you can see the plate needs to be full of holes and slots for all the parts to fit in snuggly.

[FOOKz™]

Alright man Im back from a long trip and now theres more free time for modding.

Parts are looking good.

Im going to get started with you. I'll gather the smallest parts possible too.

[Nefarius]

Awesome FOOKz been a while! Lemme know how yer doing with everything ^^!

I'm still stuck with making a proper backplate, since I'm broke and jobless everything has been on hold fer a bit. I'll be back in business when I start my new job/study in august.

=D

[FOOKz™]

I have printed circuit board designs and a schematic drawn up on paper. Let me draw it in AutoCAD so i can post it here. I finished a while ago, i just waited to see if you are still up to this task.

For the case i was thinking having a snap-on snap-off style case to the PSP.

[Nefarius]

I'm a bit stuck atm though. The backplate for the non visable pnp speaker is easily fabricated. I've had a bit of bad luck. My dremel fried itself, plus the fact that I'm pretty much broke won't work either XD But back on topic.

For my own 5 Amp/5 Speaker backplate I've run into a snag... The backplate is just to damn fragile and it wont hold. So I was thinking of using a resin and poor a backplate. If you know what mean, just don't know if the components will be able to dump their heat. Do you got any ideas?

As for the Snap-on/Snap-off speakers. I think I'll design a case for it on paper and contact my family for some info. They might be able to help making the shell, but I'll need to know how big all the components will be. Plus I'll need to find some pretty nasty speakers aswell. Ugh... Cant wait to start my job and be able to tinker about in weekends again XD

Thats it fer now!

[FOOKz™]

So I was thinking of using a resin and poor a backplate. If you know what mean, just don't know if the components will be able to dump their heat. Do you got any ideas?

Aircraft Grade Aluminum.

[Nefarius]

And how would one obtain such a thing :P

http://diyaudioprojects.com/ So thats what you were designing :P