FLEX Rapidfire Opensource 12F683

[Hazer]

please respect hazers wishes and stop buggin him to revise this code. accept what he has given us and appreciate it for what it is.  any more of these requests will result in disciplinary action [/color]

Hey guys. I decided to release one more opensource code. Actually, opensource hex. This is what I would consider the right way to configure your rapidfire. It has the following features:

Configure onboard:
-number of modes (1-4)
-Speed of rapidfire for each trigger indivdually (2-50 SPS)
-Burst fire enabled or disable (3-6 shots)
-CODWAW patch signal or standard signal

All of this is done through the tacts/triggers. The install is now easier as the code has been optimized to not require resistors at all. The diodes are still needed for the matrix though for battery life. It should also be compatable with a previous installation of GamplayRF. This will need someone volunteer testing though.

Here is a manual on how the chip works:
http://www.mediafire.com/?w0jcnz0xlzz

Here are the hex files. They are seperated by which type of controller (not universal, sorry you Ebay f**kers):
http://www.mediafire.com/?mj3ygiiu1dj

Install Pics:

CG


Matrix


I also want to add possible LED configurations other than using the original player LEDs 3 and 4. You can install extra LEDs and piggy-back them to the player LEDs in a way that lets them shine through the guide button:

CG


Matrix


Or another way to do this is to use one RED smd LED and make the 3 color option that was used in the Final Rapidfire guide button:

CG


Matrix


I will not release the code on this. The reason is due to 2 things: Any adjustment could cause the PIC to burn out the LEDs or the trigger wipers. Also, I dont want people bastardizing it to call it thier own and selling it on Ebay. If they want to sell it on Ebay, it will be very obvious where it came from.

I will only post this opensource here, as Acidmods has been my place of choice for enjoying this hobby. For those of you who have GameplayRF installed, you should be able to reprogram and fly with it. All new installs get to enjoy not having the resistors anymore.

I would like some serious feedback as to how this mod works. I truly believe this is the only way to have your contorller work. I cant stand the endless modes people have to cycle through or the idea that only one mode is adjustable. You  should only have enough modes for the game you are playing at the moment. Please do not include how cumbersome the on-board editting is though. The right way for the best controller to be is through the PC utility, but this can give you the same freedom without the PC util.

I released this because it was time for people to 'up the ante'. Back when I started opensource codes, the only thing around was single speed rapidfire. No modes, no adjustments. Hell, most of the kits sold on Ebay were rapid thorugh the tactile, not the trigger. So I released BMU2. After that, all people would offer was 3/4 mode rapidfire where you had to cycle through modes to turn off the RF. So I came up with GameplayRF, which I still believe is much better than a 'stealth' mod hands down. Well now the only true ingenuity since that release has been the Viking chip. Every thing else available is still the same old codes, just modified to 8 or even 14 modes (how the **** can you possibly play with that?). And while the Viking chip is great in its own respect, it had still lacked one aspect that should be driving force for the user: personal customization. What if when I am playing L4D2, I only want on and off? I preffer speed X for this. But now I am ready to play CODWAW and I usually use 3 modes (off, 11SPS full auto, and 12.5SPS 5round burst). This is what I mean, its about adjusting it to what I want, not what other people have decided whats best for me.

PS: Viking now has the ability to self customize through a GUI.

Anyway, I would really like to see if anyone else shares my opinion after testing this.

Oh, and if you do like the code I have a request: Please check out the auction area as I am offloading some extra hardware:
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,35801.0.html

[Ben.]

Thanks Hazer! I'll be sure to try this out asap!

(L)

[GhoSt]

I am drooling over my keyboard, I love new code, and coming from the master himself I have to test this when I get my next controller.
Good work hazer,

...now an opensource usb programmable rf lul...

[rafaliyo86]

Thanks again Hazer

...now an opensource usb programmable rf lul...

Agreed! lol

[laxboy]

That is awsome thanks hazer

[SN!P3R]

once i am able to program a pic, ill install and post a vid

[nathd]

This is great to hear, is it possible to use this with the sync button instead of the tact. I don't mind soldering etc but dont really want to add a tact to my controller. Many thanks.

[GhoSt]

This is great to hear, is it possible to use this with the sync button instead of the tact. I don't mind soldering etc but dont really want to add a tact to my controller. Many thanks.

use a sleeper code like burnmeup then.

[t0pP8uZz]

Nice hazer, Hopefully t0pFire 3.0 will overcome alot of the issues you mention too.

8 or even 14 modes

*cough* t0pfire *cough*

[SN!P3R]

Oh and thank you for no resistor optimization, it's only wires a switch and a chip now haha

[Hazer]

*cough* t0pfire *cough*

Yeah.     You did a great job with that code, but I still believe that the direction people are taking by adding more modes is the wrong way to go. Dont get me wrong, I like your work. What I dont like is that people originally keep adding more modes because they are trying to sell this stuff. Customers keep demanding more options and the Ebay sellers just keep adding more modes. IMO its the wrong direction and only helps people market thier chip, not help users play the correct way. Everyone pushes the 'multiple modes' so heavily nowadays, I dont think the general public get that there is a better way to handle customization, they dont realize theres a better solution other than to have a dozen modes to cycle through.

Anyway, I would like to know if someone who has an original GameplayRF setup (hopefully socketed) is able to use this code with no problems. I never went back to solder in the resistors to check.

Oh and thank you for no resistor optimization, it's only wires a switch and a chip now haha

I have been working for weeks on that, trying to determine the best way to remove them without sacrificing the safety of the controller. The best solution in the end was to release only the hex. I will laugh my ass off if someone decompiles this . Its a pretty convoluted code without any labels and heavily 'hand-optimized' in assembly. Making changes to this hex would take someone smart enough to build thier own version, so it would be a waste of thier time. For that reason, I will not release the source code and allow other people the ability to screw up the LED and trigger logic in a way that could burn out the controller. Besides, the whole basis of this code is that everything is adjustable, there is no need to change the code (except to add RS232 comms....)

This is great to hear, is it possible to use this with the sync button instead of the tact. I don't mind soldering etc but dont really want to add a tact to my controller. Many thanks.

If you read the manual I provided, you will notice that the main function of this code is to configure/program everything about the rapidfire function. In order to edit the configuration, you hold down the tact button for 3 seconds. If you wire this to the sync, you will have problems since the LEDs will blink for both the controller trying to sync itself and also blink for the edit mode.

I am going to say this only once: I dont give a crap about stealth installs. You are willing to crack open your controller, solder in a chip with code produced by someone you dont have any backgournd info on, to add a turbo function to your controller, and that function has been optimized for actual playability, and the thing that matters most is the asthetics of an extra button on the bottom of the controller? Is it really that big of a f****ng deal? Is it the idea that you will do something irreversable to a $35 controller (that quite frankly gains $25 in value having the damn chip installed, not degrqades in value)? Are you trying to hide the function? Really? I could go through the hastle of coding the stupid trick of holding DPAD left while tapping SYNC and holding up on the right thumb while sucking my left pinky toe  and ligthing a candle with the lighter pinched in my ass as a way to keep the controller 'stealth', but how does that work while 12 people are trying to gun you down and you picked up a weapon that requires you to turn the RF off? The answer is "that method sucks".

For all of you who keep asking for stealth installs: Take the goddam plunge and drill teh damn hole. It wont hurt that bad, its just one controller. Hell, its only a $10 shell that can be replaced. Try the freedom of quicktapping where your finger naturally sits (under the controller) and see what all the cool kids are raving about. Until 100 people all swear that they have gone over to the darkside and still demand stealth over a real gameplay setup and reply all in unison to this thread, I will NOT be providing any code that keeps the contorller 'original'. Sorry.

 

EDIT: To nathd: my response was rather harsh and I dis not mean to jump on you directly. As you are a fairly new poster here you stumbled onto a very raw nerve I have about this subject, and I apologize. You just happened to be the unlucky person to ask me about this.

I will not apologize to any further requests about stealth mods. My statement holds strong (just not a personal attack on nathd). If you people really want your stealth mods so bad, do this: Wire the tact line to the SYNC button, but then cut the trace on the controller that leads to the SYNC. Just be sure you sync your controller first before doing this, otherwisse you will have to open the contorller and solder a jumper in order to resync. If you want your 'stealth' so  badly, do the work yourself and stop bugging me about it. You will note that this is a mighty inconvenient solution and there is no way you would be able to sell a stealth install of this on Ebay as the buyer would have no way to sync the controller to his xbox. I like this idea more and more as I read it.

[spurgurgle]

wow hazer... i just read through the manual for this code and it sounds amazing..... completely customisable.......

i think ill be testing this out soon!!! it sounds like the ultimate Rapid fire code

[gadget78]

just had a quick go of this code ...

firstly it does all loook a bit complicated when you first glance at the operation notes ..
and you have'nt mentioned what the 'default' setting are at when you first program?
which may put alot of people off ...   

secondly, just programed it on my matrix controller and there only 'seems' to have 3 modes ..
all off, lower left on, then lower right on, then back to off again ... am i missing something ?

now gonna have a bash at the jitter hex that robbo3 put up looks promising

[Hazer]

firstly it does all loook a bit complicated when you first glance at the operation notes ..
and you have'nt mentioned what the 'default' setting are at when you first program?
which may put alot of people off ... 

Yes it is. But there is no other way to make it work with all that can be adjusted.

secondly, just programed it on my matrix controller and there only 'seems' to have 3 modes ..
all off, lower left on, then lower right on, then back to off again ... am i missing something ?

I didn't bother to look at the default programmed settings. But 3 modes is what it is left at. If you go into programming mode in the first mode (all LED off) then you can increase or decrease the number of modes from 1-4.

Think of it this way: You can adjust everything. If you are playing HALO3, then use these settings:

2 modes
1st mode both triggers disabled (for laser)
2nd mode both triggers on 11.1 SPS standard RF signal

Use these settings for CODWAW:

3 modes
1st mode both disabled
2nd mode  right trigger 10.7 SPS CODWAW signal
3rd mode right trigger 12.5 SPS 5shot burst CODWAW signal

COD Zombie mod
3 moeds
1st mode both disabled
2nd mode right trigger 11 SPS CODWAW signal
3rd mode Left trigger 2.3 SPS standard signal, right trigger (your prefference).

This last one makes the controller auto-aim at multiple targets.

THis is completely adjustable. Every single thing can be turned on or off, every speed individually changed. Any combination or number of modes can be programmed. I did not set the defaults for anything because the whole idea is that you prgram the controller when you switch to a new game. You dont have to cycle through modes not meant for the game your playing at the time.

EDIT: to get a better idea, this works exactly like the following video, with the exception of the LEDs:

Final Rapidfire - Self-editting feature

[802Chives]

I am going to say this only once: I dont give a crap about stealth installs. You are willing to crack open your controller, solder in a chip with code produced by someone you dont have any backgournd info on, to add a turbo function to your controller, and that function has been optimized for actual playability, and the thing that matters most is the asthetics of an extra button on the bottom of the controller? Is it really that big of a f****ng deal? Is it the idea that you will do something irreversable to a $35 controller (that quite frankly gains $25 in value having the damn chip installed, not degrqades in value)? Are you trying to hide the function? Really? I could go through the hastle of coding the stupid trick of holding DPAD left while tapping SYNC and holding up on the right thumb while sucking my left pinky toe  and ligthing a candle with the lighter pinched in my ass as a way to keep the controller 'stealth', but how does that work while 12 people are trying to gun you down and you picked up a weapon that requires you to turn the RF off? The answer is "that method sucks".

lmfao... been saying that from day one. amen

[gadget78]

now i follow you ... explains  a few things ....

seems perfect..
was gonna suggest another tact for quick on/off, but if you set it up (as you actually can !!) you dont need a off/onn button as there is'nt hundred of modes to cycle through, and mode change is quick dont really need to look down ! so that cures that !

all i could maybe suggest is some kinda saving of setups ? like have 3 saved settings for the 3 games you mostly play ? ... but i cannot see how you could sqeeze that in, plus its just lazyness ! ..

will see how my boy gets on with it after the jitter ... hmmm maybe that is something that could be put in ?

MANY thanks for this Great code .. can really see that a lot of thought and time has been put into this, cirtianly does stand on its own, and change the way you look at 'mods'

[t0pP8uZz]

How did you do without the resistors Hazer?

Im guessing perfectly timed pulses when the PIN is NOT tri-stated.

Peace
-t0pP8uZz

[Hazer]

How did you do without the resistors Hazer?

For the LEDs: Output is 50% duty cycle when on, and tri-stated while off. Perfectly safe for the LEDs as long as the code is not tampered with.

For the triggers: Only the matrix required resistors. This code checks the state of the triggers on each tri-stated pulse. If the PIC see the trigger released, it keeps the output off.

[Thejld]

Ok so i installed ur codes and is having a problem. it automaticcally scopes in and shoots witht he left trigger. The leds light up and everything, do u think when i programmed the chip the zif pockets were wrong or something or what? do u know what happened?Please i need help

[Modded Matt]

no, if the chip was in the wrong place in the socket you most likely would have fried it.

this is a problem with your wiring.

[gadget78]

sounds like you just need to set it up thats all ...
as it dont really come 'pre-configured'

does it cycle through the modes, when pressing mode (sync/tact) button ?

[Modded Matt]

*** face palm *** shakes head.  regardless if the modes are set or not, when you press the left trigger the wepon should not fire.  if this is happening something is wired wrong.

[Thejld]

I guess the wiring is wrong because when i push the tact button it even fires then, do u think this is the wiring. It automatically scopes in to so idk what is rong.
Post Merge: April 06, 2010, 01:53:36 PMSo if the lights light up and everything, it means that i programmed the chip correctly but the wiring is wrong?
Post Merge: April 06, 2010, 02:01:25 PMgadget it does like when i press the tac button it blinks the leds as it should i think, what do u mean set it up and it doesntcome ppre configured. On the diagram there should only be two wires to the tac, correct?

[gadget78]

sorry i misread you first post
didnt see that it shot when pulling left trigger !
only read that it scopped in/out, as it can be of course set up for scopin in and out

from what you saying, it sounds like its programmed correctly.
but 'just' BADLY wired up !
check ALL you wiring !  especially to the triggers !

and yes two wires to the 'tact' switch, one from the earth, and one to pin 5 (bottom right in pic)
and i mean you need to set up all the speeds, and how many modes, bursts etc etc

[Thejld]

ok i see so one wire from pin 5 which is bottom right in pic goes to tac switch, but u see the top right wire in the pic, does that wire connect to the tac switch to, or where does the top right pronggo to the diagram confuses me because it has the top right prong connecting to the tac switch and like a hole on the board.
Post Merge: April 06, 2010, 02:24:38 PMAlso which point is the earth?

[gadget78]

yes top right goes to tact too as thats a earth point,
so earth goes to the tact AND the top right of pic as these are both earths,
then they both goto earth spot (not a hole !) on controller

TBH it does seem that this is all abit overyour head, as you are getting stuck on the basics here
and dont want you to mess you controller up!

[Thejld]

So this is my understanding. pin nmber 8 which is top right just goes to thetac switch, and 5 goes to tac switch, which point is the earth on the controller, sorry im really confused right now.
Post Merge: April 06, 2010, 02:55:45 PMhow des a wire go to both the ground and the tac switch?
Post Merge: April 06, 2010, 03:13:06 PMPlease need help someone respond

[gadget78]

i cannot put it any clearer than i have already i dont think !!!

pin 8 (top right) needs to be earthed for chip to work (its the earth, were pin 1 is the live)

tact switch is a switch !, its purpose is to switch pin 5 to a earth, hence pin 5 on one side of switch and earth on the other side ....

and the earth point for all earths that need to be earthed is the controller ...

[billy bob]

hi ... i just did this mod and wow its wicked ... works 100%..the leds setup looks good fits nice..
BIG thanks to Hazer love your work ... and thanks for you time and hard work WE are all thankfull...

1 Q for you whats the top speed you can go in CODWAW with it undetected?

[Thejld]

Figured it all out works now, i found out that top right goes to earth and tac swiktch thanks gadget.