Ps3 rapid fire studying and understanding project open source

[Modded Matt]

the fire rate is being chopped up, its not smooth like hazers code was.

hazers code was
f.f.f.f.f.f.f.f.f.
your code is
f.f...f.f.f.f...f.f....f.f.

[hyper999]

for the led by does nothing do you mean always on or always off?
Post Merge: September 22, 2010, 01:14:21 AMkk here we go wire up same as before also i managed to salvage a button so tested my self so i know the button and led work just need you guys to verify this and check for choppyness again lol
p.s i wanted to just quickly get this done so led pin switches between hi and lo not lo and tristate but il sort that in a bit
Post Merge: September 24, 2010, 05:42:52 AMhmm what has happend to this thread just as we are nearing the finish everyone seems to have died lol
Post Merge: September 24, 2010, 03:03:56 PMalso when reading up on r232 and serial comms and what not i stumbled upon this
http://www.uchobby.com/index.php/2009/10/04/diy-usb-to-serial-cable-for-3/#more-492
and i believe this cable operates at 3.3v so the ps3 battery should just be able to provide enough potential difference for the converter to recognise a high signal from the pic

[geraldrubalcava]

im not dead still here lol wll ive bin bizzy with some term papers but finally out for a week1 xD (thank god for spell check!!)

hum exactly! the type of signal is called ttl and its what arduinos use to communicate. it can also operate at 3.3 v so this is potentially a way to work. hum its true, seems like no one else wants to post anymore. but modder matt seems to take a interest on this project. well hope people still contribute
Post Merge: September 24, 2010, 04:32:49 PMalso ima try your code right now

[hyper999]

also try this
same setup  up but
starts up in off mode
mode1 = 6sps
mode2 = 4sps
mode3 = 8sps
although i think by the way the signal looks on my scope the last 2 speeds are backwards

[geraldrubalcava]

i will be glad to try it hum. well hope this thread will still live. its bin a lot of work to die off like this. and we have posted a lot! so come on guys! we can finish this! well be gald and i will post the result of the other test too

[hyper999]

less posty more testy! lol
and yes if this code works i should be able to release the ps3 bmu equivilent sometime tomorow.

[geraldrubalcava]

kk sorry be with you in a bit, have to turn setup testing 

[hyper999]

kk asap please

[geraldrubalcava]

ok i tested the second code and the led dint seemed to work nor the RF. so im not sure. did it work for you?

[Hazer]

Per hypers request:  The source code I used for RS232 comms is at this link:

http://www.codeworks.it/net/VBNetRs232.htm

and I used Visual C++ Express to build it. Attached is RS232 routine ripped from my final project. I dont want to share the original files for a couple of reasons: First, it has a simple encoding/decoding algorythm embedded in it that I use on more than one code, so sharing it would be bad. Some of the encryption is hardcoded and would take quite a bit of time to remove. Also, if I posted the entire thing, others would be able to rip my PC utility for thier own creations without doing the leg-work for that. Instead, I included the bare basics for RS232 comms using 2 resistors and no level comverting. Its quite nice as it works for 5V and 13V RS232 (except that some 13V recievers will not read from the PIC if it powered below 3.3V).

A quick explanation of the code: The main routine checks the recieving pin (pin 4, the one that is only good as an input) to see if the RS232 port has sent the START bit. once it does, the RS232 routine takes over and enables the watchdog timer. The whole routine is simple wait-loops at just the right moment for 14.4KBps 8N1 serial comms. The watchdog timer is there to make sure the PIC does not get lost or validate glitch voltage levels on the recieving pin. I use a FLAG bit to keep validity. As long as the transmission goes through flawlessly, only then will the PIC record the values.

What I did not include here is that I send back all of the bytes to the PC after recieving them and perform another verification transmission as redundant verification that the correct bytes were sent. After all of that, I would then save everything to EEPROM. Your choice if you want to build it. Again, I took it out as I dont want to share all of the details of how the original PC util works, and also its alot to get working so just get the basic transmission tested before adding in redundant verification.

The link above shows the Visual program I used. If you know any PC programming, it should take very little time to convert it to work with the PIC. A good program for debugging this stuff is called Docklight. You can use it to see RS232 transmission in realtime.

I will check back form time to time to see how its going and answer questions.

I dont plan to add much in the way of finalized code. I would just be doing all the work againand get nothing from it. Insteaed, I will be using what free time I have reversing the USB source code so I can start using that for furutre projects.

Have fun.

[hyper999]

Thanks hazer your the man!

@gerald are you sure you wired it up correctly as i have tested on gh and rf and led work i just couldnt tell how stable the speed was :/
Post Merge: September 24, 2010, 02:33:17 PMwell ok just to make sure the hex i uploaded was ok i downloaded it from here my self and programmed it straight into my setup and it still works for me.
how ever on my setup im not using the controller led as i forgot to wire that to my header and cba now but i have an led on my breadboard wired like so pic pin - resistor - led - vdd which i believe is the same setup as in the controller?

but here is the setup again just in case
pin 1 - Vdd (+)
pin 2 - unused
pin 3 - tact switch - Vss (-)
pin 4 - unused
pin 5 - 100 ohm resistor - led
pin 6 - COM2
pin 7 - unused
pin 8 - Vss (-)

at power up it will start in off mode press the tact to switch modes
mode 1 - led turns on - 6sps
mode 2 - led blinks once - 4sps
mode 3 - led blinks twice - 8sps

like i said befor by looking at my scope i think the speeds for mode 2 and 3 maybe backwards.

i know this setup and code works because i have it working right here in front of me but due to my lack of games i cannot see how stable the speeed is

Post Merge: September 25, 2010, 07:00:57 AMjust tried it on the mw2 demo with a usp and all seems good 

[geraldrubalcava]

that was my mistake! lol i wired it like pin 3 is led and pin5 is the button. lol sorry. well that's a good way to test the chip. the usp in the game is pretty good with the hole rapid fire. ima text out today with other guns. and i recommend you getting a game. mw2 is a good game. even the single payer. its awesome overall.

[802Chives]

Orko: 0.8V is the digital high threshold for a schmitt trigger, so R2 is not a digital low to start.  all the buttons on Rcommon and Lcommon can be read digitally... I know because I have tested it.

just wanted to clear up some misinformation in my post from way back... i am currently writing some code and had the triggers on a 360 controller that were 1.2V when pressed not register using a schmitt trigger buffered pin like I claim in my post O_o so I broke out the spec sheets and found out that it is the TTL buffered pins that I was able to read digital values of trigger pulls between 0-1.2V

Those are the two digital buffers available on Pics, and the TTL is more forgiving with lower voltage readings and incidentally what I used for both PS3 and Xbox button readings.

the 12F683 only has one Schmitt trigger pin (GP2) so you shouldnt have any problems reading the button presses on a PS3 digitally using any input but GP2.  If you move to a bigger chip PORTA tends to be all ST and PORTB tend to be TTL.  See the Pinout Descriptions (usually table 1-1) in the spec sheets see what buffer the pin uses for what funciton.

[hyper999]

@ chives that makes everything make more sense after you told me most of the inputs were schmit trigger i looked it up on the data sheet but tht said they were mostly ttl which greatly confused me lol

as for the previous code i found that the speeds for the last 2 modes are backwards but that is an easy fix

i will probably start a new thread for the code later and submit it to the code list

then im gna learn visual basic and work on a pc app

[geraldrubalcava]

ive tested your code and it seems wo work prity good too:) yes the last to modes are reversed but its working a ok i would suggest to keep working on the code tho. because he seems to only want a code that is fully finalized. But if you want a simple code with 3 modes. then this is is a good choice. he dint want to accept RDC code, also is akimbo rapid fire in the future too?

[hyper999]

i am gonna release the code as it is as a sort of beta and akimbo will be in the future

[geraldrubalcava]

this is great. its going to be a good beta. and hopefully this can develop more! i will be here to test. looking foward for it. and i believe once the code its in its final stages it can be presented to modders matts list. well awesome job tho. and i will still look forward for some work on a code with serial communication  with a pc

[hyper999]

i will releasse this code as is for v1 as for a simple r1 rapid fire mod this is very good this will help point out any bugs with the code as is
you should think of this code as a building block for the future
v2 will be akimbo and rapid any button
then i will work on things like burst fire, macros, and rs232
Post Merge: September 25, 2010, 05:12:15 PMthread for release of V1 can be found here
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,37606.msg281507.html#msg281507

[geraldrubalcava]

unless anyone else wants to post useful information in this thread i guess it might be dying. But i would really like this thread to be pinned. mainly because it offers so much information and the process of how the ps3 rapid fire works. so it might be a useful archive of info

[hyper999]

just thought is there the same patch on waw as there is on 360?
Post Merge: September 26, 2010, 06:34:27 AMjust about to start on akimbo

[Modded Matt]

the code list is for final codes. The code list requiers a new topic that will only discuss that particular code. I have not had a chance to test the new code, but I will, and I see you have a new thread, so your almost there. now as for the akembo and rsss/burst. I sugest continuing development here. and once that part of the code is added and complete, name it and issue it as a new code, those are too big of changes to be considered a code revision. We learned this from the development of topfire, the thread gets too diluted and confuses the user. the name v2,v3,v4 etc are reserved for bug fixes. and I will need to be told when a v2 is ready so I can update the main download package.

RDC's code is welcome just like anyone elses, but it must meet the requierments, new topic, named code, and final version (with the exception of bugs) I amnot sure he is ready for that, if so, please let me know. any questions please feel free.

[hyper999]

can someone do me a favour and test the code in the other thread cos i cant seem to get it to work but am unsure if this is something i have done to it in code or if my test rig is playing up again or both?

[geraldrubalcava]

i would test your code. but modder matt changed it a different place and it not letting me go there. not sure whats happening. but i would of i could

[Modded Matt]

the code in the other thread dont work. post removed until its updated. I assume its the same as this one?

the code in your other thread: (PS3-3 mode opensouce.hex)
led acts same as this one (see below)
RF dosnt exist in any mode

code in this thread: (hazeredit3mode.hex)
the led is not right
the rf works, but your modes are wrong values as stated

LED problems:
turn on controller, led lights instantly, but RF is off
press tact once, led goes off and in mode one around 8sps
press tact again, (led is off due to above) led blinks on once then back to off state, RF is on around 15sps
press tact again (led is in off state due to above) led blinks twice, rf is around 6 sps

mode one and three are smooth, mode two is choppy as hell im mw2. not sure if this is your speeds or ingame programing. I have a feeling your sppeds are being edited as apposed to using the value of FIRERATE in your code, but IDK


@ hyper, kleep development here until its finalized

[hyper999]

@gerald did you find the same thing with the leds as matt in any of my codes? and what controller version are you using?

@matt what controller version are you using? and are the leds on your board common positive? and yes mode 2 is probably just too fast
Post Merge: September 26, 2010, 02:12:33 AMok try this rf is working again same speeds but mode 2 and 3 are the right way round now
so..
off
6sps
4sps
8sps
and led should be working but i was told that leds on all board revisions were controlled via ground?

[Modded Matt]

ok, thats a bit better.

led responce:
controller first powers on=led state off, rf state off
press tact once, led lights, Rf around 8-10 sps smooth
press tact again, led blinks one time, rf very fast (too fast a bit choppy at times)
press tact again, led blinks twice, 6 sps steady

as seen above the led is now working properly, but the mode count flash is wrong, when it goes into mode one, it turns on, so when going to mode two it should flash twice, then when going to mode three it should flash three times.

[hyper999]

the led flashing was intentional and i personally prefer the leds as they are but its easily changed if you think most ppl will prefer it or i could do it like flex (my favourite) and the first speed should be the same as hazer's 6sps code?

[Modded Matt]

uh... you are going to get alot of complaints about that. the flex format is good, but this is on one pin and is a flash count system, and the flash count cant count. it should be like bmu3

[hyper999]

il get it done in a minute it will only take a second as already included the code for up to for flashes i just didnt use it
Post Merge: September 26, 2010, 12:07:51 PMdone however i just pulled the header off my test setup oops!

[geraldrubalcava]

well im not sure if peole are going to complain. this will be one of the first R1 codes. so i dont think people should demand alot from it. but i guess this  can be changed easily. well i will test your code too. hum i have to buy some more 12f683 chips. because the last one got stuck in my programmer and the pins ripped. so ima scavebge for one or buy another from a us seller.
Post Merge: September 26, 2010, 07:03:02 PMunless this code can be ported to the 12f629? because i have some of those. but i will still look for the other

and all of the boards LED's are common positive.