PCB Etching Techniques

[Anonamous]

I'm not exactly sure where to post this, but I would like to know how many of you guys have etched pcb before. If so, what method (or methods) have you used, and what did you find the best results with. I am running out of the photo paper I was using and I have no idea what brand it was or anything because I don't have the packaging. I was printing on the non-glossy side of it because I found that it quickly adhered to the copper and on medium heat, it pulled off somewhat easily. I would like to know what would be some good paper to use since I don't really have the money right now to be experimenting and using magazine paper doesn't quite do it for me.

[FOOKzâ„¢]

This goes in the general modding and electronics section.

common resist printing techniques:
first method- printing etch design to laminate and using photo etch paper to add traces (best results)
second method- use a sharpie marker LOL (cheapest and poorest results)
third method- PCB toner transfer paper (not the most expensive but it works well
fourth method- glossy magazine paper used as toner transfer paper (cheap and work well but unreliable)

common acid etching techniques:
first method-  Letting it sit and slowly agitating the enchant in the board (slowest)
second method- Sponge wiping the acid over the traces (fastest and uses the least enchant but risks wiping the ink/resist off)




there are enchant acid concoctions that i know of that i will not share because you can make yourself go blind or kill yourself with the chemicals.

Stick with the ferric chloride and HCl solution from radioshack

[Phantom]

i just print onto plain old photo paper, with a laser printer, not an ink jet. why are you printing on the non glossy side? the point of using photo paper is so the gloss and toner will stick to the copper. doesn't the gloss get stuck to your iron?

i use Ammonium persulfate to etch, it is really slow, and it has to be kept at 70 degrees c but its the only thing i can find here for PCB etching.

[Anonamous]

This goes in the general modding and electronics section.

common resist printing techniques:
first method- printing etch design to laminate and using photo etch paper to add traces (best results)
second method- use a sharpie marker LOL (cheapest and poorest results)
third method- PCB toner transfer paper (not the most expensive but it works well
fourth method- glossy magazine paper used as toner transfer paper (cheap and work well but unreliable)

common acid etching techniques:
first method-  Letting it sit and slowly agitating the enchant in the board (slowest)
second method- Sponge wiping the acid over the traces (fastest and uses the least enchant but risks wiping the ink/resist off)




there are enchant acid concoctions that i know of that i will not share because you can make yourself go blind or kill yourself with the chemicals.

Stick with the ferric chloride and HCl solution from radioshack

i already know of them... the guy at Home Depot gave me a really dirty look when I asked him where I could find some muriatic acit lol. Its probably because I still look like I'm 15 lol

[hyper999]

I use the toner transfer method with either regular paper or glossy card (depends where I go to get it photo copied as I don't have a laser printer), I find the glossy card works best but I have to iron it for a LONG time.

Two bits of advice,
- Have your iron on the hottest setting
- And make sure you have a really good transfer of toner before you try etching, I usually have 3-4 attempts (clean with fine grade sand paper and acetone in between attempts)

For etching I use ferric chloride, warmed by leaving the jar in a sink of hot water before etching, and applied to the board with a sponge. For an arduino sized board takes about 5mins to etch.

TBH though I only ever use PCBs if I absolutely have to as I find stripboard gives a near proffesional look with a LOT less hassle.

[Anonamous]

IP hear everywhere that the sponge method can etch a small sized board in up to 1 minute. I have tried it multiple times and found that not to be the case... i was outside doing one of my nand flasher boards for up to an hour... it takes rediculously long and i had the bottle of ferric chloride sitting in a container of boiled water.

[hyper999]

IP hear everywhere that the sponge method can etch a small sized board in up to 1 minute. I have tried it multiple times and found that not to be the case... i was outside doing one of my nand flasher boards for up to an hour... it takes rediculously long and i had the bottle of ferric chloride sitting in a container of boiled water.

do you re use the ferric chloride? If you pour it back into the bottle after etching a board your FeCl3 solution will get weaker everytime you use it, I always dispose of mine after etching a board in an appropriate manner of course (definitely not by tipping it on my neighbours garden ;P )

If you don't reuse it, then I would say your solution is too weak, try buying FeCl3 crystals and mixing your own.

[Anonamous]

I wasn't re-using it. I bought it from radioshack. However when I re-use the solution and keep it in a container and just heat the container by putting it in a larger container filled with boiled water, I have no problems. It still etches quite fast (on the bottom side of the board lol)