CL Wired Controller - LED active when button pushed?

[Johan1973]

I have a CL Wired Xbox 360 controller, that I use for my pc. I am trying to figure out how to connect the LEDs on this one to have the AXBY buttons light up when they are being pressed. Any suggestion? Any help figuring this out would be appreciated.


Edit: I have a CL Wired Xbox 360 controller, that I use for my pc. I am trying to figure out how to connect the LEDs on this one to have the AXBY buttons light up when they are being pressed. Any suggestion? Any help figuring this out would be appreciated.  I have measured that it seems to pull 1.86V to ground across the poles of the button "switches". However, I have not been able to figure out how to use this to make the LEDs light up when the button is pressed. The leds require 3.3V at least to give a bright light.


[gmod]You made a double thread pretty much asking the same thing keep in one topic [/gmod]

[3D0kassiah]

welcome to AM rodent knows all about  this he'll be able to help you

[Rodent]

I have a CL Wired Xbox 360 controller, that I use for my pc. I am trying to figure out how to connect the LEDs on this one to have the AXBY buttons light up when they are being pressed. Any suggestion? Any help figuring this out would be appreciated.

I havent tried this on a Wired Cl controller but have done it on a wireless cg controller. let me look in to it and see if I still have a Wire CL xbox 360 controller and see if its possible to do.

Also welcome to Acidmods hope you enjoy your stay:)

[Johan1973]

Thank you. Any help would be appreciated.

EDIT: Doing electronics at 5AM is not the best idea. After some sleep and thinking about it. I realize that I need an inverter to take the common line and invert the signal. The common line is pulled down to ground in order for the button to register "active".  Using a BC547 NPN transistor I can make an inverter that when the TP39 point is low (button is not pressed) makes the LED light. And when the button is pressed, making the TP39 point "high", it goes out. So I am trying now to invert the voltage that goes to the base of the BC547 in order to have the led behave the opposite. No luck yet. Need to think a bit more about this.


[mod]Use modify to edit post please do not double post[/mod]

[FOOKz™]

You're on the right track Johan. Keep up the good work.

[Johan1973]

Everything was working ok, except for the inverted function of the LED. Then I removed the mod to put the controller back together and use it. Now the A button dont work anymore. There are no shorts. Using a magnifying glass to inspect the solder points and pcb, eveything looks good. My soldering skills are good, my solder points are good. I wonder if I have fried the microcontroller input somehow. Maybe I pulled to much ampere from it to feed the base of the BC547 transistor.


EDIT: I spoke to soon, there are no VISIBLE shorts, but measuring TP39 point, it is connected to ground, where the other buttons are not. No clue why or what might have become broken.


Click modify to edit postings don't double post. Local Moderator Rodent

UPDATE1:
Sorry for double posting.

Now back to my results. I have a broken controller to experiment on. Ordered a new wired one to use for my mod when I have it working.
Turns out I made a mistake, I forgot the effect of a switching transistor. You get a frequency (AC) signal on the base. And since the base was connected to the TP39 point that goes directly to the microcontroller, I guess it fried that input point. I continued testing by moving to point TP 44 (X Button) and added a germanium rectifying diode to protect the mircrocontroller. It seems to be working. I still have the LED always lit and only goes out when you push the button. But at least I have converted the 1.8V to 3.84V which is usable for TTL level, so I could use a NOR gate to invert the signal and drive the LED. I dont have any ICs suitable for this right now though. So I am content to have the LED always lit and go out when you push the button. It still looks pretty cool. Now I am just trying to measure the circuit properly and make sure it will not cause any damage to the micro controller. It would be easier if I knew the specs of the controller chip that just reads "microsoft". I need to draw the circuit I use so that I can post it here and you can see what it is I have done. Will update soon with that.

UPDATE2: As I promised, here is the circuit (drawn by hand LOL) that I am using and working on now.


UPDATE3: I was in error, 0.7 forward voltage is regular silicon diode. It does not matter so much, it just is there to function as a rectifier to prevent any current from the Ibe of the switching transistor to flow back to the X808717-003 micro controllers inputs. In effect separating the Common Line voltage going to the Input of the X808717-003, from the Common Line being pulled down to the TP points (which is the inputs).

I have a broken Microsoft X808717-003 chip on this controller due to not having this diode when I first tried the circuit. I have done a quick googling online to try to find a Microsoft X808717-003 chip, to replace this one that is broken. But so far I have no luck whatsoever. Anyone that knows where I can buy one?

[Rodent]

Nice job, your progress is moving forward fast... sorry i haven't gotten back to you. I don't have a wired controller to test and when i did the cg version wireless it worked pretty good

Test video
Test P-B-L Mod


Finished video
Rodent's Blue & White Competition Controller

[Johan1973]

I have solved it. I dont know why I thought I needed to invert the whole thing. It is already inverted in a Common Line controller (+1.8V Common Line is "high" when driving transistor, and 0V = "low"). It pulls down 1.8V to the TP points, which is just what I needed. Not like in Common Ground, where it grounds a signal and require it to be inverted.

This is the final circuit to use for each of the LEDs on a Common Line Wired controller.



Note that R1 and R2 must be adjusted depending on the LED forward voltage required. Also it is VITAL that you include D1 to protect against any backwards current going to the Microsoft X808717-003 inputs when the Transistor is switching.

[Rodent]

Nice job!!! 

[Johan1973]

Thank you. Now I am working on the paintjob for the shell. My first attempt at such a thing. And I wait for the new controller to arrive so I can do this mod and use the repainted shell

[Rodent]

Thank you. Now I am working on the paintjob for the shell. My first attempt at such a thing. And I wait for the new controller to arrive so I can do this mod and use the repainted shell

Make sure you sand the controller and prime it first then Krylon Fusion paint and clear coat it 

[Demonboy]

quick question.... y do u want the LED's to light when u press it... ur finger will cover the light 

[Cookie Monster]

you would be able to see it if the bumpers lit up when you pressed them, or you could make it light up something else..

[Demonboy]

well ya... but he made it light up the button itself... idk its a nice mod but threw me off when i read it haha

[Johan1973]

Yes, the LEDs light up when I press the button. I could have then always on by using the inverter circuit I made first. But then it would be lit always. I just want the button to give some visual indication of being pressed. And that I have now. It looks ok in a dark room. I will be adding rumbler LEDs as soon as the green clear dpad, thumbsticks, and fron and back plastic pieces of the controller arrive in the mail. I will upload a video later on how the controller looks after my first ever paint job of this kind.

I also realized that using the transistors etc takes up a lot of space. I spent most of the time just rewiring things to be able to jam the circuits into the very small space of the controller. If someone knows an IC that can do what my circuit in this thread can do, it would be appreciated.

[Demonboy]

like i said... its a great mod, and good work... just not something im used to seeing

[Johan1973]

The circuit I have made, 4 transistors and 8 resistors and 4 diodes with all the cabling was difficult to fit into the controllers very limited space. So I wanted to ask if anyone knows of a good IC that basically perform the function of the circuit  have drawn?

[Demonboy]

well if no one finds anything u can always take off a motor and shove it all in the grip haha

[Johan1973]

Hmm. I like the rumble, so I wont be doing that.

Anyway, as I promised, here is a video of my progress so far. I am just waiting for some parts to arrive in the mail. The back piece, the front piece with the shoulder buttons, the thumbsticks and the dpad will all be clear green, so I will be adding leds to light them up as well

Xbox Controller Mod 1

UPDATE: The TPS22907 is an ultra small, low input voltage, low rOn load switch IC that will do the job perfectly and not take up much space at all. I just need to find a supplier that does not charge twice the sum of the order for shipment. Any suggestions?