360 miniCG2 Controller Board

[RDC]

Haven't exactly made it yet, but it's just about ready to be.

The 360miniCG2 will be roughly 35.5mm x 57.5mm x 5mm, pretty much the same dimensions as the PS3 controller's battery pack (the larger grey colored ones).

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Soon as I can get around to having a few run off and show up for parts swapping and testing I'll post back with those results. I imagine it'll be about the same as with the miniCL, something will need tweaking, changed or was just overlooked.

[3D0kassiah]

just take my wallet while your at it lol
awesome rdc as always keep up the good work
will be following for future updates

[RDC]

OK, test boards are in for the miniCG2.

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I've already swapped over the components from a CG2 and found a few things that need correcting, but nothing really major to hold it up for another revision before I can do some testing.




So far I've only done the most simple test, that is just powering it up from the AA spots and pressing the Guide button to see what happened. What happened was the 360 turned on from across the room (~20ft), then I tried the A button and the game in the 360 loaded up, so it's off to a pretty good start. I'll get around to testing everything else later on and report what's up with it.

[3D0kassiah]

 
sorry lol as always RDC good work as stated will be watching this thread for future updates

[Madman340]

How did you get that chip soldered on? No way it was just a normal soldering iron...

[RDC]

Soldering the 100 pin MCU on the new board can be done with a soldering iron, that's the easy part. Magnifying glass and some patience, or just a fat wave of solder run down the leads if you know how and what you're doing. This here was done with a soldering iron..


http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/360%20Hitachi/DualBootHitachiv46004.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/360%20Hitachi/DualBootHitachiv46003.jpg


Now removing the MCU from the controller board without jacking it up, or any of the other components around it, that's the more difficult part (desoldering always is) and shouldn't be done with a soldering iron on a part like that. SMT components should be done with hot air pretty much exclusively, though some with only 2 leads you can get away with the iron on them, and then installing new ones the iron can be used in most cases if one prefers, depending on what the part is, but for some parts hot air is the only way to properly do them.

I just used a normal hot air rework setup and a straight nozzle for pretty much everything done on this board here.

[Madman340]

Dang, that's pretty crazy. I don't think my hands are steady enough for that.