Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 296443 times)

RDC · « **Reply #240 on:** April 26, 2019, 10:59:39 AM »

They are A1304ELHLX-T, package is the SOT-23W

Digikey has them - https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/allegro-microsystems-llc/A1304ELHLX-T/620-1548-1-ND/4552949

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #241 on:** April 28, 2019, 12:54:08 PM »

Thanks you a lot RDC!

ajp8868 · « **Reply #242 on:** July 03, 2019, 03:32:21 AM »

Hi All, Sorry for replying to an old thread but it seems to be relevant to my issues. I'm hoping someone could help me identify an issue with my left thumbstick which seems to constantly be on full left all the time after replacing the POT modules. When the controller is on but with the pots removed, it's the opposite (so as if I was pushing full right). My guess on this is that the resistance is too low when the module is in place, signifying a full left push but I've tried putting the originals back in and they are showing the same symptoms.

After studying the images on this I was going to first check the 1.8v line from the u8 regulator to make sure this is working and possibly measure the voltage changing on the signal pin, but from then on I'm not sure.

What do you think I should check first?

Thanks!

RDC · « **Reply #243 on:** July 03, 2019, 04:28:52 AM »

If U8 had an issue then all 4 axis of both sticks would have a problem.

Since the problem occurred after replacing the POT, I'd say you have a broken trace, most likely at the 1.8v line of that POT. Installing the POT would let the ground side connect to the Wiper (center lead, axis) and with no 1.8v connected to the other side, it would just peg full left, no matter how much the stick was moved. With the POT removed, the Wiper line floats and the axis could go anywhere.

ajp8868 · « **Reply #244 on:** July 03, 2019, 04:50:41 AM »

Thanks for your quick reply!

The left stick does have a strange problem with up/down as well, where it will act as though it's repeatedly being pushed in whichever direction it's pushed (it's basically super sensitive. Could this also be related to U8?

So the first thing to do would definitely be check the 1.8v then.

I'll report back tonight, hoping this could be an easy fix!

RDC · « **Reply #245 on:** July 03, 2019, 05:25:19 AM »

If U8 had an issue then you'd have problems with the other stick as well. Some pics of the board might help.

ajp8868 · « **Reply #246 on:** July 03, 2019, 05:50:28 AM »

I'll see if I can take some usable images later.

Thanks for your help so far.

ajp8868 · « **Reply #247 on:** July 03, 2019, 04:32:28 PM »

I couldn't see anything visibly damaged at all on the board, and couldn't find out why the voltage wasn't reaching that POT, even though it was reaching the other.

I've bridged the pin between the 1.8v on the y axis POT to the pin on the x axis POT, which has fixed the issue! However, do you think this is a good/safe way to do it? it's well insulated so won't cause a short if it moves.

RDC · « **Reply #248 on:** July 03, 2019, 06:59:05 PM »

It's perfectly fine to do it that way. The trace is most likely broken right at the solder pad for that lead.

ajp8868 · « **Reply #249 on:** July 04, 2019, 01:29:38 AM »

Brilliant, thanks for your help. That might have been the fault with it all along, it may not have even been the joystick module at fault.

ilie321 · « **Reply #250 on:** July 08, 2019, 03:20:53 AM »

hi all; i have a controller that is similar to this one but the pinout of those 2 connectors between boards are different ; on pcb it says x860641-012 not 010 as on here; my problem is :it has 3.3v 3v etc and all powers seams to work but no sign of life from it; when i press the power button led do nothing ; the led is tested and works also the power button works and has voltage on it if not pressed; measured everything i could and seams ok and no visual things to suspect; any idea ; can it be the main chip? the pc see the controller on usb but fails to install driver with code 10 no matter what i do (manually install etc)

RDC · « **Reply #251 on:** July 08, 2019, 12:41:07 PM »

If the pinout of those connectors is different, then a schematic of this board is not going to be of any help to you. I havne't seen any that are that different so far, besides the 1708 which only has 1 connector on it, so not really sure what version you have there if that's actually the case. The sticker in the battery compartment will have the Model number on it.

First thing you need to do is get another controller of the same version and find out which board has the issue.

ilie321 · « **Reply #252 on:** July 08, 2019, 09:05:47 PM »

thank you i will look at that sticker when i go home but i don't have another controller to compare

i measured on the board with the usb the connectors maybe this is why they are different?

ok it says 1537 on label and after i look better at first post i notice that you count the pins first up second down not on row as i expected so now is perfect correspondence

RDC · « **Reply #253 on:** July 09, 2019, 01:50:14 PM »

Measurements taken with the controller connected via USB, no battery pack installed.

Power OK (J1/J5, pin 11) will measure 3.3v, but only if the controller is working. It is also the Shutdown line, and 0v on it turns the controller off. That voltage comes from the MCU pin 83.

The Guide button line (J2/J6, pin 6) measures 2.5v unpressed, 0.5v pressed, again on a good controller.

ilie321 · « **Reply #254 on:** July 09, 2019, 08:14:49 PM »

I don't have the 2.5V on that pin 6 (= with tp16) there is only 0.7v. Tp9=3.3v. On the other side of the diode I have around 1.5v with button not pressed. 3.3v on power ok is good. So i think this 2.5V come from mcu which is dead or a software issue ; i bought this controller from a guy so i don't know if it was an update issue ; when i connect it to pc it see it but cant install driver error code 10 on win7 64 (i tried also manual install ) ; i will make an hdd with win10 to see if any difference but i doubt ; thank you for the infos

RDC · « **Reply #255 on:** July 10, 2019, 01:31:10 AM »

TP9 is not the same as Power OK, that just means that U1 and U3 are working, you would have that voltage on TP9 if just the top board alone was plugged up to USB with no MCU board connected at all.

Yes the 2.5v (TP16) comes from the MCU pin 97.

Other side of which diode?

The 1537, 1697 and 1698 are all pretty much the same, so if you run across any of those controllers you could swap boards around to see which one has the issue.

ilie321 · « **Reply #256 on:** July 10, 2019, 02:47:19 AM »

yes power ok and tp9 are different ; diode D27; i will try to get some other controller in few days

Gegas2231 · « **Reply #257 on:** July 10, 2019, 05:16:07 PM »

Hey everybody. I am new to modding controllers and I was trying to repair my bumper actually, so I open my controller and find out that the tactile button was damaged. I order a replacement online, desolder old one and installed the new one, the problem is that I screwed up, and melt down the metallic contact in the base of the RB pin, so is not making contact and RB is still not working.

I have 2 questions: I do not understand what Test Points are, what I mean is, should I throw a cable from the pin that is not making contact to the TP in order to fix it? or how do TP works?

And the second question is if I can make contact somewhere closer than the TP, because I would prefer not to unmount the MCU.

Or maybe anyone has an idea of a dix I could do.

Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #258 on:** July 10, 2019, 05:52:36 PM »

Test Points are points where you can test something. It's just a spot along the trace where it can be probed to see what is going on, otherwise you would need to scrape the masking (the green coating) off of there to expose the copper trace underneath it to solder to or check it with a meter, scope or whatever. They are also useful for attaching wires to for doing repairs or adding duplicate buttons.

Without seeing the damage I can't recommend the best way to repair it. There is no TP spot for RB, so you're not going to repair it with that method. There are 4 connections the RB makes to the board, 2 are just for mechanical purposes, then there is a ground and RB connection, the Purple trace in the pics of this thread. If the RB connection is the one you have damaged, just run a short jumper wire from the lead of the RB Tact switch and follow the trace to D3. It's only 5mm or so away from that spot, solder it there and unless something else is messed up, RB should work.

Quote from: Gegas2231 on July 10, 2019, 05:16:07 PM

Or maybe anyone has an idea of a dix I could do.

Sorry, can't recommend any dix for you, this is AcidMods, not AcidRods.

Gegas2231 · « **Reply #259 on:** July 11, 2019, 04:19:32 PM »

Thanks RDC. Actually what you said is super helpful, so I could run a wire to D3 which I assume is a diode am I right?

Also, to reveal the race of cooper I should scrap the green part, like the circuit board? because I was scrapping the shinny part instead.

Thanks again for your comment, it was really helpful, If I run into more issues I'll post a pic and ask for more help.

RDC · « **Reply #260 on:** July 11, 2019, 04:57:44 PM »

The D3 marking is for a Diode, but it's a Capacitor in that location, neither of which matter.

You do not need to scrape anything anywhere to repair that. Likewise you don't need to scrape where solder already is, like the RB spot. The bottom side of D3 already has solder there where that component is attached to the board. Just solder the wire to to bottom side of D3, then to the RB lead.

Mizuho · « **Reply #261 on:** July 29, 2019, 04:58:17 PM »

Does anybody know what sort of chip U9 is? I've got a controller here with the triggers permanently activated and I don't seem to be getting any voltage through from u9 to the hall sensors. I found another thread that mentioned you should measure it with an oscilloscope, which I kinda did with an arduino, but it's measuring 650 constantly, whereas another board I have, which is also broken was at least giving me 0.11v and a little spike every presumably 125ms. It did the same, since it's also an rt/lt issue, but there was a difference. So I'm pretty sure it's the U9, but I can't figure out what it is/where to get one.

RDC · « **Reply #262 on:** July 29, 2019, 06:49:42 PM »

U9 is just a 3.3v LDO in the 4-X2SON package. The TLV70733DQNR for example should work fine in there.

Pin 1 = OUT, ~1.2v measured with a DMM
Pin 2 = GND, Ground
Pin 3 = EN, Enable, pulses come from U1 pin 6 thru R38, 0ohm.
Pin 4 = IN, 3.3v

It has an exposed pad, so it will take a hot air setup and a little heat to do that rework.

Issue could be U9 is dead or the pulses are not coming from U1. I'd swap the U9 from your other board and retest.

case · « **Reply #263 on:** September 18, 2019, 11:48:30 AM »

Good evening

My Frankenstein KB-Controller is getting an update and i'm in trouble.
The old version was powered by 2 AA, all nice and shiny.
In my last project i killed the led from the guide button and put in a new powered via TP7, all fine.

The new version will be powered by a 5V power bank via the usb and here my trouble starts.
Now when i power the board "wired" TP7 is on constant power!

Am i forced to use the solderpoints from the guidebutton led i grilled with a new low powered smd or is there a solderpoint where i can get 3.5V for a classic lep that also shuts off when i power off the controller?

The guidebutton solderpoints are only 0.8V and 6mA, so no chance for classic led here.

Ideas and tips are very welcome

Thanx in advance

cupanoodle · « **Reply #264 on:** October 16, 2019, 01:34:56 AM »

I made this account just to say thank you @RDC! My right rumble motor is alive thanks to you.

Story:
My A key was sticking, I couldn't have that so I took it apart and cleaned the whole thing. During the reassembly I tore off the solder pad for RUMBLE MOTOR+ on the right side. I tried TP7, but the motor was stuck on, so I read through some advice on this thread and ended up scraping away enamel on the trace adjacent to the missing pad. Was able to solder the motor on to that trace.

Pictures:
https://imgur.com/a/Pe7Nmfy

RDC · « **Reply #265 on:** October 16, 2019, 04:47:37 PM »

Welcome.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #266 on:** October 17, 2019, 06:34:24 AM »

Quote from: RDC on April 26, 2019, 10:59:39 AM

They are A1304ELHLK-T, package is the SOT-23W

Digikey has them - https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/allegro-microsystems-llc/A1304ELHLX-T/620-1548-1-ND/4552949

Hi again. You gave me link to 3V ~ 3.6V Hall sensor.

But when I measure supply power of it (on two gamepads) I got 1.4V

Is it yor link correct?

RDC · « **Reply #267 on:** October 17, 2019, 08:04:16 AM »

Nope, I just make all this up as I go.

The Hall sensors do not have a constant power rail, it is turned on/off 125 times a second via U9, so a DMM will not measure the voltage correctly. You need to put a scope on there if you want to see what it is really doing.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #268 on:** October 17, 2019, 08:18:35 AM »

Quote from: RDC on October 17, 2019, 08:04:16 AM

Nope, I just make all this up as I go.

The Hall sensors do not have a constant power rail, it is turned on/off 125 times a second via U9, so a DMM will not measure the voltage correctly. You need to put a scope on there if you want to see what it is really doing.

Ah! Thats clear now! Meander or sin there

I have one halfdead body now. Both trigger hasn't any respond. But voltages is okay. And signal lines to CPU is okay too.
When I bring close magnet signal output of sensor show 0. There are no any changes.
I resolder sensor to other PCB and it is okay.
Maybe generator is dead?

I checked them with multimeter only.

RDC · « **Reply #269 on:** October 17, 2019, 08:26:55 AM »

If there is voltage in and the Hall sensor is good then there should be voltage out.

VCC = ~1v measured with a DMM
OUT = ~0.11v measured with a DMM

The more you pull the trigger the lower the output goes. Not pulled measures around 0.11v, full pull measures ~0.01v

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 296443 times)