Author Topic: xbox one lighting mods (Read 46372 times)

Modded Matt · « **on:** December 22, 2013, 06:34:19 AM »

Ok so I completed my first LED lighting mod for the xbox one. There is not much different between the one and 360 controllers. (all LED mods for that matter) You need switched power and ground which MS has made it easy for us to tap into.

For my mod I used the LED chaser program by topbuz from the acidmods free code section. It was created for the 360, but over the years I have shown this code can be used for may applications. You can find the code I used here: https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,37478.0.html

Microsoft's new edition to the controller family has plenty of room to add chips and/or other components below the ABXY buttons, and the way the two boards go together, there is plenty of open space to run wire between the boards without worry of pinching them. As always, steer clear of the analog sticks to avoid pinching hazards. I run all my wires out the right side of the controller then after assembling the two boards, folded them over and made all my connections and mounted the chip below the abxy buttons and above the rumble motor.

For my main connections, I tapped into J5 and J6 connectors on the joystick board. J5 gave the sinc button signal @ pin 6 ane ground @ pin 14. J6 provided a switched 3.3V power at pin 4. See the pic below provided by RDC.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/75177275/xbox%20one%20led/1537BBT_zpsc0fd1923.jpg

You can do the mod any way you want, but with the lack of new parts for the One controller, I could not buy clear buttons, but they are easily made buy using a dremel to remove all the black plastic from inside the button. The top of the button is clear, so once the blank is removed the led shines through.

Here is my finished project. Enjoy!
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/75177275/xbox%20one%20led/20131222_010437.jpg

Xbox One LED MOD

fevera1985 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 22, 2014, 05:11:35 PM »

Did you used white 3mm leds to not put resistors ?
They can be wired when getting the ground and positive from the same pints as the Seth's 9 mode rapid fire mod a he used the positive from somewhere else.

FOOKz™ · « **Reply #2 on:** January 22, 2014, 07:13:18 PM »

Matt, that's pretty sweet.

GhoSt · « **Reply #3 on:** January 22, 2014, 07:28:07 PM »

Yah I missed this one too, nice work Matt.
I hear that the X1 controller is better for lighting mods since it has an available regulated voltage rail rather than one that fluctuates with battery charge.

FOOKz™ · « **Reply #4 on:** January 22, 2014, 07:55:54 PM »

Quote from: GhoSt on January 22, 2014, 07:28:07 PM

Yah I missed this one too, nice work Matt.
I hear that the X1 controller is better for lighting mods since it has an available regulated voltage rail rather than one that fluctuates with battery charge.

Oh Yes!

Modded Matt · « **Reply #5 on:** January 23, 2014, 05:16:48 AM »

Quote from: fevera1985 on January 22, 2014, 05:11:35 PM

Did you used white 3mm leds to not put resistors ?
They can be wired when getting the ground and positive from the same pints as the Seth's 9 mode rapid fire mod a he used the positive from somewhere else.

No, the buttons themselves are not colored like the 360 was. The top quarter of the button is clear, under that is black and will not allow any light to shine threw. I had to drill out the buttons to the clear and use colored leds (different color and resistor for each button) but because each LED has its own pin on the microcontroller, you can attache the the resistor directly to each pin and the led wire to the resistor making for a clean install.

Quote from: GhoSt on January 22, 2014, 07:28:07 PM

Yah I missed this one too, nice work Matt.
I hear that the X1 controller is better for lighting mods since it has an available regulated voltage rail rather than one that fluctuates with battery charge.

The xbox one controller has three onboard voltage regulators, each of different output voltage that supply clean constant power in values of 3.0, 3.3 and even 3.5V.

RDC · « **Reply #6 on:** January 23, 2014, 06:57:30 AM »

Quote from: Modded Matt on January 23, 2014, 05:16:48 AM

The xbox one controller has three onboard voltage regulators, each of different output voltage that supply clean constant power in values of 3.0, 3.3 and even 3.5V.

Just to clarify this.

The 3.0v Reg only runs when the USB cable is plugged up. When running off of batteries only the 3.3v and 3.5v Regs work. That 3.0v source then becomes whatever the battery pack's voltage is. If using the PnC pack it will stay ~3v as that's what it's output is, but if using AA batteries it will vary with whatever their voltage is.

GhoSt · « **Reply #7 on:** January 23, 2014, 02:55:53 PM »

Quote from: RDC on January 23, 2014, 06:57:30 AM

The 3.0v Reg only runs when the USB cable is plugged up. When running off of batteries only the 3.3v and 3.5v Regs work. That 3.0v source then becomes whatever the battery pack's voltage is. If using the PnC pack it will stay ~3v as that's what it's output is, but if using AA batteries it will vary with whatever their voltage is.

Is there any sort of component based current limit to the two regulated supplies on the controller side? ie: how much current can we pull, or are we pretty much free?

RDC · « **Reply #8 on:** January 23, 2014, 03:40:55 PM »

There's always a limit, but until I find out exactly what the Regs are to know their specs it's anyone's guess.

The 3.3v source is used for the MCU and RF board.

The 3.5v source is for the LED, IR LEDs and Rumble motors.

I seriously doubt M$ designed it with power to spare, so I wouldn't go more than 100mA or so on each source until everything is known. The way LEDs are now you only need 5mA or so per LED to get more than enough light from them, so staying around 50mA at most should be easy enough.

fevera1985 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 24, 2014, 02:59:18 PM »

Nice... Great to let us know witch voltages are to be. Used with AA batteries .
I'll be posting mine soon enough, probably the Sticks with LEDs

chiel1987 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 13, 2014, 07:56:21 AM »

i have clear xbox one buttos, full clear.
Please see my demo button include led.

https://www.facebook.com/XboxPlaystationCommunity/photos/pcb.628765337211178/628765290544516/?type=1&theater

Does anybody have a tut for xbox one controller ( movie or install pics)

Whitey86 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 14, 2014, 06:55:39 AM »

Nice work matt!! Have you got a picture of the assembled chip you used for the flashing LED's please?
Thanks

fevera1985 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 01, 2014, 02:49:49 PM »

I finally made some LED Mods for my controllers.
Took me a lil while to wait on the Clear Thumb Sticks but did it.

Mic port thought it looked kool i guess i also used TopBuzz LED Code.
I mainly used 0805 SMDs

Sorry for the images been Huge...

TheHybrid1987 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 30, 2014, 03:18:04 PM »

Would it be possible for someone to do a walk through on how to add LED's to the ABXY buttons as well as thumbsticks for those who don't know Eletronics that well?

TheHybrid1987 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 22, 2015, 02:48:38 PM »

So each LED that will go into each button will need a resistor. I bought a pack of LEDS but it didn't give me any info on them so what kind of resistors should I use? They are 5mm LEDS and 3mm leds.

RDC · « **Reply #15 on:** February 22, 2015, 03:04:07 PM »

If you have no specs for the LED, then you'll need to guess what it's rating is based on the color.

Red - Amber 1.9v to 2.2v
Green - 2.2v to 3v
Blue - 3v to 3.3v
White - 3v to 4v

Always start Low with the voltage and especially the current rating, around 5mA so you don't burn them up quickly, and around 20mA max as that's probably about all those are rated for.

So say you had Blue LEDs, use 3v and 5mA. Then if you use the 3.3v source in the controller, you'd need a 68ohm 1/8w or larger (1/4w) Resistor. It's most likely not going to be bright at 5mA, or might not even light at all, but then you just go to a higher current rating and try again, so 3v and 10mA you would need a 33ohm Resistor.

Those are just ball park guesses as there are always LEDs that will fall outside of those specs and why it's always best to have the actual specs from the manufacture.

Use an online LED calculator, unless you want to get into the math of it all and learn that, but you're better off having the real specs of the LED before doing that so all of the math makes more sense.

Single LED - http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Multiple LEDs - http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

TheHybrid1987 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 22, 2015, 03:22:52 PM »

Thank you so much for the info. I'm trying to mod my own controller and I want to do it right. I was planning on using 3mm LEDS in each button Red for B Blue for X Etc.... And tapping into the J6 pins to power them. I wasn't sure how big of a resistor to use or if I could get away with not using one at all. I'm a complete noob when it comes to doing this so any info is much appreciated.

Quote from: RDC on February 22, 2015, 03:04:07 PM

If you have no specs for the LED, then you'll need to guess what it's rating is based on the color.

Red - Amber 1.9v to 2.2v
Green - 2.2v to 3v
Blue - 3v to 3.3v
White - 3v to 4v

Always start Low with the voltage and especially the current rating, around 5mA so you don't burn them up quickly, and around 20mA max as that's probably about all those are rated for.

So say you had Blue LEDs, use 3v and 5mA. Then if you use the 3.3v source in the controller, you'd need a 68ohm 1/8w or larger (1/4w) Resistor. It's most likely not going to be bright at 5mA, or might not even light at all, but then you just go to a higher current rating and try again, so 3v and 10mA you would need a 33ohm Resistor.

Those are just ball park guesses as there are always LEDs that will fall outside of those specs and why it's always best to have the actual specs from the manufacture.

Use an online LED calculator, unless you want to get into the math of it all and learn that, but you're better off having the real specs of the LED before doing that so all of the math makes more sense.

Single LED - http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Multiple LEDs - http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

Did some digging online of where I bought them. 3v at 20ohm is their rating. So I'm guessing that means that Im suppose to power them at 3 volts using a 20ohm resistor? Excuse me if I sound like a dummy it's because I am. I'm not 100% sure what you mean when you say try them at 10 ohm is that the resistor strength?[mod]please dont double post! use your modify tab.[/mod]

RDC · « **Reply #17 on:** February 22, 2015, 05:18:28 PM »

Either you or them have that incorrect, you I'd guess as I never said anything about 10ohms but did about 10mA. The mA is milliAmps, how much current the LED uses. Ohms is Resistance. Google is good for you.

3v at 20ohms isn't an LED rating at all, but 3v at 20mA is. If that place actually says 20ohms then it's most likely some typo and they meant 20mA, and that's all the info you need to plug into the LED calculator that will do all of the math for you.

Pin 4 of J6 is the only one you can use for power, and it would be easier to just use TP9.

TheHybrid1987 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 23, 2015, 05:55:19 AM »

You are right. It was my mistake I mistakenly got ohms and ma mixed up. 3v at 20ma. My apologies. Your right Google is good. I've been googling left and right just to understand what ma are and ohms and how resistors effect LEDS. I've learned a lot just reading these forms.

So 3V at 20ma. The way I affect the ma is by changing the resistor correct?

Also colors like blue use 3.3V so then that means I couldn't use the 3V power source right I would have to go 3.3v or the 3.5.

RDC · « **Reply #19 on:** February 23, 2015, 06:35:49 AM »

You'll need to read up on Ohms law and learn how to calculate the Resistor value manually if you really want to get into all of this, but you already have everything you need and could be wiring these up already.

There is no 3v power source in the controller, pin 1 of J6 should NOT be used for LEDs as it is not switched or regulated.

Use the 3.3v in the controller for power, TP9, that's your Source Voltage.

The LED's rating is 3v at 20mA, so that's the Diode Forward Voltage and Diode Forward Current.

Plug those into the LED calculator and you get 15ohms 1/8w for your Resistor value for each LED.

LEDs are current driven devices and are typically used in circuits where the voltage source is higher than what the LED needs. This is why a Resistor is needed as it limits the voltage and current that the LED will get. When you go trying to use an LED with the exact same voltage rating as the voltage source, 3.3v source and 3.3v LED, you can technically forgo using a Resistor, but it is always best practice to put a 1ohm Resistor on it in that case. Using a 3.3v LED and a 3v source can also be done, but the LED will not get as much current as it needs and will not be as bright as it could be, and in some cases will not light up at all depending on the LED.

LloydDavies · « **Reply #20 on:** May 14, 2015, 11:23:46 AM »

Really interesting post actually, just I have no idea where to start with this - could someone point me in the right direction?

kriscash2007 · « **Reply #21 on:** July 28, 2015, 10:42:53 PM »

Just to make sure I'm on task. When he used pin 6 in j5, that was for the chip functionality right?

kriscash2007 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 31, 2015, 06:12:40 PM »

I'm trying to do the abxy led mod and I have the leds working. My problem is trying to get the buttons to press down properly. What is a good procedure for that?

RDC · « **Reply #23 on:** August 01, 2015, 05:08:46 AM »

You have to install the LEDs and then secure them in the buttons correctly or they will not feel right at all as you've changed the height of the material inside the button and now have wires running out of them. Use as small a wire as you can, not solid core wire, use 28awg stranded if possible ( like the white/green wires from an old USB cable) and keep the wire a little slack or in a coil so it acts like a spring keeping some tension on pushing the button up. Don't coil up the wire under the button, that's not what I mean at all. Make sure the amount of glue or whatever you have in there is the same height that the original plastic of the button was or you end up with too little and the thing will not press, or too much and it can't spring back on it's own.

Oldie guide, but still a goodie guide - http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/scontroller-button-light.php - which is 12 years old now, but that controller still works fine and still lights up.

Nooby Michael · « **Reply #24 on:** January 04, 2016, 11:04:29 PM »

I was wondering if anyone knows how to sinc the power to the leds to where they only are on when the guide button is on. I am totally new to this i am a complete noob at this i know this post is a little old and i just didn't know if i could get a tut on how to do it the right way. I know how to do it if i wanted the lights to run while the battery pack is in but i want them to run only when the remote is on if sed possible without chips.

GhoSt · « **Reply #25 on:** January 05, 2016, 12:19:47 AM »

I am not 100% sure on what the situation is inside these bad boys, I wouldn't recommended it, but you may be able to piggy back 1 or 2 LEDs straight to the guide LED (no chips).

A far better method would be to use a BJT as a buffer, search emitter follower, pretty straight forward circuit. You would essentially be using a small current (control using a gate resistor) from the guide LED to switch the transistor (bias the gate) and then drive your LEDs off the current flowing between emitter and the collector (which you would get directly from a regulator/rail).
You could also use a FET I guess.

Modded Matt · « **Reply #26 on:** January 05, 2016, 05:37:05 AM »

The OP tells you:

Quote

For my main connections, I tapped into J5 and J6 connectors on the joystick board. J5 gave the sinc button signal @ pin 6 ane ground @ pin 14. J6 provided a switched 3.3V power at pin 4. See the pic below provided by RDC.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/75177275/xbox%20one%20led/1537BBT_zpsc0fd1923.jpg

"switched" power means that the LEDS are switched on and off with the controller. Use pin 4 for 3.3V for your supply voltage and figure the proper circuit from there. Use an LED calculator if needed.

Nooby Michael · « **Reply #27 on:** January 05, 2016, 10:02:55 AM »

Thank u so much. Will start working on it now.

Nooby Michael · « **Reply #28 on:** January 05, 2016, 10:12:00 AM »

I know im dragging this on longer than i should be but im having a dumb moment so would i connect the resistor strait to pin 4 or to tp9 becouse both of those post different suggestions.

Modded Matt · « **Reply #29 on:** January 05, 2016, 11:36:18 AM »

Which ever you feel more comfortable. They are the same. you can use TP9 or pin 4 on J6 TP9 would probably be easier for a beginner.

Nooby Michael · « **Reply #30 on:** January 05, 2016, 02:31:18 PM »

And both of those are switched power supplys? Also i can just use any gnd right?

Modded Matt · « **Reply #31 on:** January 06, 2016, 05:51:50 AM »

B4D TEMP3R · « **Reply #32 on:** August 02, 2016, 07:33:52 PM »

Quote from: fevera1985 on June 01, 2014, 02:49:49 PM

I finally made some LED Mods for my controllers.
Took me a lil while to wait on the Clear Thumb Sticks but did it.

Mic port thought it looked kool i guess i also used TopBuzz LED Code.
I mainly used 0805 SMDs

Sorry for the images been Huge...

how did you do that mic port led mod? what led did you use and where did you mount it.

Modded Matt · « **Reply #33 on:** August 03, 2016, 06:52:29 AM »

you have posted two different mods. The X button mod is just changing out the 0605 LED. The stick mod is prolly the same SMD leds mounted at each corner of the stick housing. I have also used 3.5mm LEDs for this as well. wire it to the controller points as posted in the pinned post.

B4D TEMP3R · « **Reply #34 on:** August 03, 2016, 12:32:04 PM »

Quote from: Modded Matt on August 03, 2016, 06:52:29 AM

you have posted two different mods. The X button mod is just changing out the 0605 LED. The stick mod is prolly the same SMD leds mounted at each corner of the stick housing. I have also used 3.5mm LEDs for this as well. wire it to the controller points as posted in the pinned post.

I did say the mic port led I already know how to do the other mods

AssimilatorX · « **Reply #35 on:** September 28, 2018, 10:23:51 AM »

This is my mod slightly more difficult to achieve then changing an 0603 SMD LED. Took me a few hours of dremmeling stuff out from the frame and etc. I would not add any more LED's as they will deplete battery quicker .

emcintosh · « **Reply #36 on:** August 02, 2020, 10:09:16 AM »

TL;DR: what gauge of wire and route should I use to light up ABXY?

I have added LEDs to my ABXY buttons (individually switched, see https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44629.0.html), but my wiring isn't very reliable and I have had to open up the controller (unsoldering the rumble motors &c.) several times to reconnect wires that have come apart. I used what was advertised as red and black multi-stranded 30 AWG kynar wire, but when it arrived was actually two red wires, but one length of multi-strand and one of single-strand somewhat thinner wire. The single-strand seems to be 0.2 mm in diameter, and the multi-strand 0.2 to 0.4 mm in total, depending on how hard I press the jaws of my micrometer. But as my micrometer only reads to 0.1 mm, it's hard to tell gauge it actually is.

For most of the connections, I used the multi-strand (for better flexibility and strength), except the loop connecting the negatives of A and X (thin enough to have it folded over in the gap between the buttons, so they can move independently of each other without pulling on the soldered joints):
https://postlmg.cc/7Cg3qFqV

The LEDs slot into the coloured parts of the buttons, with their legs bent to come out horizontally though gaps in the tabs that keep the buttons in the right orientation. I have left a mm or two of leg clear, which I have looped the connecting wire round and soldered. I need to keep the remaining legs short so they don't hit the outer edge of the channels in the front shell, but this doesn't leave me much room to get a good solder joint. I thought it would be better to have the rigid legs going through the tabs rather than cutting them even shorter and having flexible wires passing through the tabs and connecting to the legs within the buttons.

I have wires coming round the top (X, Y, - for A and X), side (A, B) and top outer corner (- for B, - for Y) of the board, partly to minimise the run of wires needed between the buttons and the rubber pad beneath, and partly because I now have them individually controlled - my previous parallel-connected version had wires from A and X running diagonally to the corner and I had difficulty getting everything to lie flat enough not to interfere with button presses.

Can you recommend what gauge of wire I should use, muti- or single-strand? Where do you route the wires? Where can you include extra slack length so the buttons can move without pulling on the joints? Would you recommend having the solder joints inside the buttons rather than in the channel around them?

Update: I have used more of the thin wire and rerouted the cables:

Smokingun · « **Reply #37 on:** August 13, 2021, 12:54:45 AM »

I was wondering what the j2 to j3 and j3 to j10 connects are for. I was trying to lift the wire off the connector and the entire connector came with it. I assume it is a radio connection for bluetooth, but bluetooth (I think) still worked disco'd. Thanks in advance.

News:

Author Topic: xbox one lighting mods (Read 46372 times)