Author Topic: v1.0 Daughter board  (Read 3584 times)

Offline RDC

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v1.0 Daughter board
« on: July 07, 2014, 09:48:14 PM »
I recently had someone contact me about some controller port issues on their XBOX v1.0, and while messing around with some possibilities and testing I figured I post up the info as there isn't much floating around anymore.

This is the Daughter board. It's only in the v1.0 XBOX.

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Some common issues with this thing are the 5v and Data Inductors.

The 5v Inductors, L4, L5, L7 and L8 can become brittle and if the board is removed one too many times they can crack and then no 5v gets to the controller. It can be replaced with a short piece of wire if one is found to be broken.

The Data Inductors, L2, L6, L9 and L10 can be knocked off the board if one isn't careful, especially L2 and L6 for ports 3 and 4, as unplugging the Power/Eject cable can tear them right off if you're not watching.

Aside from those issues though, about the only other thing that can fail will be the hub controller IC, U2. This is a TI TUSB2046 4-port hub in the LQFP package.


The Daughterboard can be tested on a PC if it's wired up correctly. This is not a Bus powered hub, it's self powered, so it needs 5v for each of the 4 ports to power whatever will be plugged in to that port for testing.

The Daughter board uses 3.3v for power, so a 3.3v Regulator or power source is required.

The D- and D+ are the Upstream connections that would go to the XBOX, or PC in this case.

Then the RST (Reset) line needs to be kept Lo when power is first applied to the Daughter board, then brought Hi after power up. The DataSheet calls for it to be brought Hi within 100us to 1ms, but this can be done a bit slower than that and still work.

There are several ways the Reset line can be done from using a PIC so the timing is within spec all the way down to using a Resistor and wire and doing it by hand, but a fairly simple and quick one is to use a Tact switch and a 220ohm Resistor. Connect the RST line to 3.3v with the 220ohm Resistor (it's being used as a Pull up here) then connect the Tact switch to the RST line and GND. Now when the Tact is pressed, RST is connected to Ground, when the Tact is released, then RST is pulled Hi by the 220ohm Resistor.

Before plugging up the USB connector, hold the Tact switch in, this will keep the RST line Lo, then plug in the USB connector and almost exactly after plugging it in release the Tact switch so the 220ohm Resistor can pull the RST line Hi. If this is done correctly the PC will detect the Daughterboard as a a Generic USB hub and install the drivers for it.






NOTE: This will NOT make XBOX controllers work on the PC or anything of the sort. It is merely a 4 port USB 1.0 hub, no different than any other USB hub really.
« Last Edit: July 24, 2014, 11:18:15 PM by RDC »
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline RDC

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Re: v1.0 Daughter board
« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2014, 11:17:59 PM »
Just to kill a little bit of free time, I decided to make up a test jig PCB for these things, versus having to mess with wiring up a USB cable to the connectors, Tact switch and such. Now it's just plug the Daughterboard up and use a miniUSB cable to check it on the PC.

The GND and 5v spots in the center are for supplying the Daughterboard ports with the 5v they need. U1 on the right is a 3.3v Regulator for powering the Daughterboard and U2, which is a 10F220 to do the Rest line timing, bit overkill but it's done now and I doubt the thing will ever get used again anyway.



« Last Edit: July 24, 2014, 11:29:02 PM by RDC »
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

 

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