Author Topic: DualShock 4 Controller PCB scans (Read 374735 times)

RDC · « **Reply #210 on:** December 16, 2019, 02:02:28 PM »

Well that's interesting then, I was checking the Tact wasn't worn out and acting stupid since it's used to start/stop the recording there. You'd really have to scope it and make sure it's not doing anything weird in there though, as a DMM wouldn't catch that but the controller would. You could also just remove the Share button, but would need a hot air setup for that as well as getting it back on there, and this is all just shooting from the hip as I haven't seen the exact issue before.

C44Supra · « **Reply #211 on:** December 16, 2019, 02:11:24 PM »

I've considered taking the button off but I doubt that's going to do much since I rarely use the share button. Maybe 10 - 20 times in total? I can scope it out though.

RDC · « **Reply #212 on:** December 16, 2019, 02:17:26 PM »

Also, brand new parts always work right out the box cause they're new, right?

Just given it's acting like you're hitting that button is the only reason I'm digging into that right now, aka the boring process of elimination of every single thing that works on the controller to find the one, and usually last thing you check, that doesn't.

If you have another good controller there, try holding down the Share button and plug it up, see if it then acts the same as the messed up one, just for comparison's sake.

C44Supra · « **Reply #213 on:** December 16, 2019, 02:28:04 PM »

Hmm, just touching around for a ground I figured out that the the other non-gnd side of the switch (both share and options) are being pulled low as soon as the battery is connected.

Also, if parts come new out of the box they obviously work as intended each and every time. And yes it was just working yesterday! (heavy dose of sarcasm here, I've worked in IT

)

RDC · « **Reply #214 on:** December 16, 2019, 02:32:51 PM »

I haven't done a schematic of the JDM-011, almost done with the -055 here, but if they didn't change much there then those buttons just go straight to the MCU, no PU or anything there, so that's no good. I've had plenty of the "it was just working" things to work on here too.

Tried the Reset button on the controller? Unplug the battery and hold it, and then plug the battery back in.

C44Supra · « **Reply #215 on:** December 16, 2019, 02:40:01 PM »

Yeah I've tried most rituals with the reset button already. Just gave it another shot, didn't change anything. I too figured out that the lines from the buttons (or at least the share button run straight to the µC, albeit through a bunch of vias. I suspect there's little to nothing I can do to fix that short of replacing the entire chip. And considering it's a BGA chip... I wouldn't be looking forward to it. That is if I could even find one.

Edit: Just checked the remainder of the non working buttons and they're all being pulled low.

RDC · « **Reply #216 on:** December 16, 2019, 02:51:17 PM »

Given the lines are going active Lo on power up, seems something has disturbed the smoke in there, something latching up or some poor bit flipped. Last ditch is just unplug the battery, short the pins, as well as a few caps in there, and let her sit and think about what she's done for awhile, then give it one last go, after that I'd also lean towards the MCU being the culprit as well if all of the voltages rails are still good. There are 2 or 3 in that thing IIRC, for sure a 3.2v and a 1.8v rail.

C44Supra · « **Reply #217 on:** December 16, 2019, 03:03:13 PM »

It's been sitting without a battery for quite while since I last gave up on it a few months ago. Couldn't figure it out back then either. Only reason I'm even looking at it right now is because a video popped up in my youtube feed about fixing a "job lot of DS4 controllers". Thought if that guy can get one going than I sure as heck should be able to as well xD

Anyways, I may have just found something:

Seems like that's where the pixies got in a fight and let magic schmoo out. Seems like some sort of diode. Kind of hard to tell what was written on it since... well.. that part is deformed.

Edit: seems to read D6F

Edit 2: Zener diode FTZ6.8E

RDC · « **Reply #218 on:** December 16, 2019, 03:06:30 PM »

D6F marked on mine here. That's on the USB lines, so steering or TVS diodes. Hot air that thing off there and see how she acts.

C44Supra · « **Reply #219 on:** December 16, 2019, 03:24:05 PM »

Well the diode is off. Unfortunately the cap to the left of it came off too. Looks like I've finally found a worthy adversary for my Mantis. And a use for my finest tipped iron.

RDC · « **Reply #220 on:** December 16, 2019, 03:30:41 PM »

Cap is just decoupling on the USB 5v, not going to hurt anything missing while testing.

C44Supra · « **Reply #221 on:** December 16, 2019, 03:42:37 PM »

True, but where's the fun in cutting corners when you can some practice in with an 0402 lol xD That said, taking that diode off didn't do the trick either, same behaviour as before.

Edit: I do have to say that USB works, just like it did before. I can connect it to my PC to get those same keys that work wirelessly register there. So at least that part seems to be working.

RDC · « **Reply #222 on:** December 16, 2019, 03:55:33 PM »

Didn't figure it would honestly. I've seen that TVS fail before and just take out USB communication and/or charging when plugged in over USB, but not internally detonate the MCU. Thing must have sent 5v into the USB data lines and wreaked some havoc inside the ARM there. Be interesting to see if another MCU fixed it or if she has some other hidden goodie causing it.

C44Supra · « **Reply #223 on:** December 16, 2019, 03:59:01 PM »

I think the MCU can be considered the culprit here. First thing I noticed before it wasn't working is that it got quite toasty on the bottom. I traced that back to the BD9200 PMIC since the plastic battery carrier actually deformed right where that chip is nearly touching it. Pulled well over 1A iirc (can't recall how much more). Got a few replacement chips from AliExpress, replaced it and it now charges at a lower current. Close to 180mA currently.

Looked around the board for more damage that I missed the first two times around but couldn't find anything else that could've let the magic smoke out =(

Edit: I don't think these MCU's are available pre-programmed right? I haven't found any yet. That said, I'm not too fond of BGA chips haha

RDC · « **Reply #224 on:** December 16, 2019, 05:33:24 PM »

Far as I know the only place to get one that would work would be another -011 controller. I imagine there has to be a pile of those out there that had botched LED, button and cRapid Fire installs that would be great for parts, just finding one will be the fun part.

pRonEx · « **Reply #225 on:** December 17, 2019, 04:20:25 AM »

Quote from: pRonEx on November 29, 2019, 12:18:48 AM

Hello guys! Can you help me??? I broke one smd-transistor on JDM-040, can you take a picture of him? On scans can't see letters on him. Thanksss)))

Hello, again))). Still can't find it. What is this transistor (NPN or PNP)? Not diode. And size SOT-723?
Thanks for help

RDC · « **Reply #226 on:** December 17, 2019, 06:24:24 AM »

The SOT-723 package seems about right, but that really doesn't narrow it down at all.

It has to be some kind of a PNP or P channel, as that Resistor is a 1.5k and is on the D+ line for signaling it's a full-speed device when D+ is pulled Up by it.

lovelornz · « **Reply #227 on:** February 19, 2020, 03:33:55 PM »

Hello. There is a component on JDS-050 , bottom of micro usb port, it seems the code on it is "J". Is it a resistor? If yes, what is the specification of it ?

RDC · « **Reply #228 on:** February 19, 2020, 04:55:20 PM »

It's a fuse, 1.25A

lovelornz · « **Reply #229 on:** February 20, 2020, 04:14:07 PM »

Quote from: RDC on February 19, 2020, 04:55:20 PM

It's a fuse, 1.25A

Thank's a lot. There is a new question, Can I replace it with a 2A or 2.5A one? Because the controller charged by a 2A power bank and probably it was the reason of fuse burning. Again thank u so much.

RDC · « **Reply #230 on:** February 20, 2020, 04:48:14 PM »

Can you? Sure, can just short it with a jumper wire if you like.

Should you though, that's the better question.

If the max weight you could have placed on your chest before not being able to breath was 125lbs, after it was removed would you then want 200lbs or 250lbs put in it's place?

A 2A power supply didn't blow a 1.25A fuse, they do not work that way. If it was a 200A power supply the load (controller in this case) would only draw the current it needed. You wouldn't need a 200A fuse in there.

The fuse blew for 1 of 2 reasons.

1 - Something else in there has a problem and replacing the fuse will just end with it blowing again, and replacing it with a larger value one will only allow more current in there and possibly cause more damage.

2 - It just popped for no reason at all, because sometimes they just do.

oxonater · « **Reply #231 on:** February 26, 2020, 04:42:37 PM »

Hi peops great site by the way, been a member for a while with no posts until now. Sorry if I have hijacked a thread didn't know whether to create a fresh one or piggy back of a generalised topic.

Any ways got a couple of DS4 pcbs that need a little work, basically on removing the left analog stick it is clear to see from pic that the VIA copper has gone for a burton. I just wondered if there is an alternate area to place a jumper. This board is an 0040 any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also have an 0050 that has had the charge port on pcb ripped of was wondering again if there is any alternatives. Please see pics thank you in advance.

OXY

RDC · « **Reply #232 on:** February 27, 2020, 02:12:26 PM »

There are no good alternate spots for most things on the DS4 controllers. The traces for the sticks are on the bottom side, flip it over and you'll see them. You'll have to scrape a trace or via and solder a wire to it.

For that battery connector, jeeze, the 2 outside spots are just grounds for holding the connector in place. The 2 insides ones, left is ground, right is battery positive. Again you'll have to scrape that trace there and solder to it.

oxonater · « **Reply #233 on:** February 27, 2020, 09:31:21 PM »

Hi

Thanks for the reply on these issues, I just wondered as the missing VIA on the 0040 board doesn't appear to go anywhere whether this may just be a ground point. Also indeed a wire would suffice I have plenty kynar or enamled to use, silly question is do i attach the wire to that particular point on the analog stick.

As for the 0050 yeah it's a right mess came to me as a freebie but now I know why LOL

Thanks again for you comments much appreciated

RDC · « **Reply #234 on:** February 28, 2020, 04:24:42 AM »

Flip the board over. The trace for that spot is on the bottom, not the top, not the top and bottom. There isn't always a trace on both sides of plated hole for a component. The trace is on the other side.

oxonater · « **Reply #235 on:** February 28, 2020, 01:07:30 PM »

Hey

Thanks again for the response, the traces and via's are all ok on the underside of the board, I thought that having this via damaged would impact on the analog stick not working as should.

The initial reason for replacement of left analog stick was controller was having drifting issues , only when I removed it obviously applied to much heat in this area

Thanks again for your help on this and clearly up any concerns I had on sorting this big thanks.

Oxy.

RDC · « **Reply #236 on:** February 28, 2020, 01:13:59 PM »

Welcome.

Don't think of it as too much heat though, it's too much time that the heat was on the board.

oxonater · « **Reply #237 on:** March 02, 2020, 02:40:10 PM »

Good evening once again

Ok bit stumped here, after replacing the L3 analog stick as per previous pics on the 040 board the blinking R2 Button is constantly active (shooting). I have gone over all the tracks/traces via's and can't see any bridges or nicks.

Just wondered if anything I could have missed even changed the all flex including the conductive one for all buttons with same results.

Did notice one of the 3 pin SMD SOT23 package chips seems to be missing half of the top but it is still clearly soldered to board, think this has YM on it wondered if this may have something to do with the problem.

Clutching at straws at the mo, any incite would be great thanks for your time once again.

OXY

RDC · « **Reply #238 on:** March 02, 2020, 05:03:25 PM »

There isn't anything that I'm aware of that connects any of the buttons to the MCU, they're all pretty much straight to it. It's either the contacts, the flex board or the MCU. Having said that though, I've no idea what kind of funkery might happen if other components are half missing.

oxonater · « **Reply #239 on:** March 02, 2020, 11:19:26 PM »

Hey RDC

Thanks again for your advice on this matter, when I plug this control in my lappy an run ds4 for windows L3 is all over the place.

Where as the right stick stays dead centre so maybe this ic has a part to play.

Can't see what it says on top as it's been decapitated but the other one adjacent to it has YM engraved.

I will dig a little deeper to find out what this is thanks in advance.

Oxy

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Author Topic: DualShock 4 Controller PCB scans (Read 374735 times)