DualShock 4 Controller PCB scans

[Gusnnar]

Hello
Does anyone know if the external port has data + and data -?

[RDC]

As far as I've looked into it, which was back on a JDM-001 version board, it does not. Everything on that headset/extension connector pretty much ran to the MCU. Of those 8 lines, 2 are ground, one is power, 4 are most likely for some form of data that went to the MCU and the last I never traced out completely.

[McClane]

Greetings Fellas!

This is my first post about a problem with my ps4 dualshock controller, PCB board model: JDM-030.

I changed the whole right joystick because i was having problems with it. So after i finished and was testing it, i noticed
that the R3 button was not working. So after visually inspecting the PCB board, i noticed that i'm missing probably a resistor 
that got loose when i applied heat to unweld and weld the new right joystick.

Do you guys think this might solve the problem ? and what is the value of this resistor ?

Thanks and regards

][URL=http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/McClane909009/media/20190802_212751_zpsfwzto6qu.jpg.html][/url]

[RDC]

That component is just a decoupling Capacitor, it's not going to kill R3.

The component that could disable R3 is just below and to the right of the spot you marked, and from that image it looks intact. I'd have to guess you tore some of the plating or trace around the R3 when removing the old stick. Remove the stick and follow the trace from the aforementioned component back, or post some pics of the board with the stick removed.

[ZhenyaKa]

the R3 button was not working. So after visually inspecting the PCB board, i noticed that i'm missing probably a resistor 
that got loose when i applied heat to unweld and weld the new right joystick.

Replace button first

Check it with multimeter

[McClane]

Greetings RDC Zhenyaka

Thanks for your quick response.
 
i took out the joystick and i'm attaching you a picture of how it is underneath it.
Zhenyaka, The button was activating ok i checked with a multimeter with continuity.

RDC can you point out which component you mentioned that could disable the button ?

Regards


[/url]

[RDC]

That Resistor is just down and to the right of the spot you marked. It's still intact.

I can't tell if that trace is messed up for the R3 or not, because BotoPhucket has it's logo feces all over that spot, had to save the images and rename them to get a decent look at them, that site is just worthless now.

I see 2 spots things that are questionable.

Red circle - The trace right at R3, can't tell if that's just flux or if the trace has been damaged/removed there.

Blue circle - If the R3 trace there was scratched and the copper exposed enough to make solder stick to it, like how it looks in the pic, and if when you had solder on the ground lug there next to it if that bridged then it would have kept R3 from working.

[McClane]

I think that's flux, because the trace is not open when i measure continuity from the R3 contact on the red circle to the exposed trace on the blue circle that you made.

But i guess that's a possibility that the exposed trace made contact with the ground lug on the blue circle.

I'll solder a new stick again and take into account your 2 observations and see if that does the trick.

I'll let you know.

Thanks.

[McClane]

Greetings RDC you were spot on.

Thank you very much!

My R3 is working, the problem was on your observation on the blue circle.

When i put everything together, i noticed that now i have a drift on the controller. The view is fixed
down, and rotating. i took out the 2 white conductors that are inside of the green holders on the joysticks
to test if the problem is in the joystick or on the board. but the problem persists. Maybe there is some
flux joining some signals and causing this problem.

Can you give me an orientation of what to check on the board for this ?

Regards

[RDC]

The flux shouldn't be conducting anything. You can use a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol to clean that all up though.

Drifting means it's moving very slowly, like you're barely pressing on the stick in whatever direction. If it is doing that, then you'll probably have to just try another stick.

If you mean it's moving as fast as it can, like you are pressing the stick as far as it will go, then there is either a short or an open somewhere with the 3 connections for the Potentiometer of the stick.

Post a pic of the bottom of the board at the stick so I can see the soldering, but give it a cleaning first, then reflow the solder joints again and see if that changes anything. Don't add any new solder, just reflow the joints a little bit.

[McClane]

Greetings RDC

Thanks for your quick reply.

I cleaned and reflowed the solder joints. And the problem persists. I made some measurements that i want to share with you.

From the picture that i'm attaching you, i named the points from 1 to 14 so:

The mess that you see between points 6 and 7 was an attempt to erase a short between these points,
and i tried to break connection in the board just to see that there was more copper below and decided to stop.
At the end, i think that these points are joined together anyway.
unless i broke some connection in the board internally while doing this.

Metal frame of the joystick 3-7-11-12 continuity (GND)

6 and 8 continuity to GND

4 and 10 continuity to Vcc

4 to 6 = 2.35k ohm
4 to 5 = 4.37k ohm
5 to 6 = 4.29k ohm

8 to 10 = 2.43k ohm
8 to 9 = 4.33k ohm
9 to 10 = 4.55k ohm

V4 = 3.21 volts
v10 = 3.21 volts
v5 = varies from 0.6 to 0.9 volts
v9 = 1.44 volts

At the other joystick at the middle point of the potentiometers it measures 1.56 volts and 1.62 volts respectively.

So something definitely is going on at point 5.

I would like to hear your thoughts about this.

If you cannot see the pic well because of the photobucket feces, let me know, to use for another method to upload the picture.

Regards

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w501/McClane909009/0/35c6789d-6ccf-4243-b12e-a9a22fcb9f33-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds[/img]][/url]

[Romario]

Boa noite.
Sobre a pcb do ds4 ( jdm 030 ), gostaria de saber  pouco sobre a linha onde entra a carga da bateria pois após uma limpeza 3 componentes foram retirados acidentalmente e agora não sei o que são e para que servem.
No caso, seriamas 3 componentes que ficam juntos e bem próximo a entrada da bateria...
Caso alguém saiba quais são essas peças e para que servem, por favor me ajudem com esse problema.
Agora a pcb não liga mas.

[RDC]

@ Romario - You need to take a picture of your board there and circle the area in question.


@ McClane - Naming the points 1-14 doesn't help when I have no idea where 1 is. Saying the mess between 6 and 7 kind of helps, but I've no idea if you went clockwise or counterclockwise naming them. Lets get on the same page and name game with those points first so I know what measurements go where.

Code: [Select]

       + X G
     O       O
+  b           G
               Y
+  b           + 
     O       O


O are the solder lugs, all are connected to ground
+ is the AN+, measures 3.2v to ground
Y is the Y axis
X is the X axis
b is the Stick button, R3 in this case

The X and Y lines should measure around half of AN+ to ground with stick at the center position, around 1.6v

Any continuity checks should be made with no power to the controller, battery removed is also a good idea.

[Romario]

No caso seria esses três componentes que estão faltando na placa... Não sei o que são e nem para que servem.
Desde já agradeço a atenção.

[RDC]

They make up a voltage divider, most likely for the MCU to read the battery voltage or some other feedback for something.

Left to Right.

150k, 150k, 1pf

All are 0201 sized. The Resistors are precision, they should be 0.1%.

[Romario]

Agradeço por sua atenção e agora poderei procurar esses componentes e enfim reativar a pcb que já estava inutilizada a muito tempo.

[RDC]

You're Welcome.

[gmc]

I'm trying to repair a DS4 controller CUH-ZCGT2E with a connector PCB JDS-055


Controller is not charging. Found a issue with the flex which I fixed and still having a problem. Can anyone identify this component:



In the middle of the board Connects tracks between the micro USB and the flex cable. Right side measures 1 ohm and the leftsize is a open circuit. Is it some kind of fuse?

[RDC]

It's a common mode choke.

[gmc]

Thanks. Replaced the PCB but now there is some issue on the main PCB as its still not charging/powering in. The search continues

[Romario]

Eu tenho uma pcb jdm 055 com problemas na conceção.
Tenho que resetar várias vezes até funcionar normalmente, verifiquei os componentes da linda de transmissão wifi e parecem estar normais.... já troquei a placa de carga usb e o flet de 12 vias e o problema ainda continua.
Alguém já teve esse tipo de problema?

[LSL]

Já tentou conectar via bluetooth? Caso não veja este vídeo: https://youtu.be/wEig-fSZmBE?t=292

Have you tried connecting via bluetooth? If you don't see this video:

[Frs_william]

Does anyone know if you can add smart triggers to the extremerate dawn remap kit? So I can have smart triggers for R2/L2 permantelty and still have the 4 back buttons remappable to whatever?

[eltsssgol]

Does anyone know how to repair L1 by pressing alone, changed mesh, pad

[pRonEx]

Hello guys! Can you help me??? I broke one smd-transistor on JDM-040, can you take a picture of him? On scans can't see letters on him.  Thanksss)))

[RDC]

The 2 I have here are both marked YM

[pRonEx]

The 2 I have here are both marked YM

Thanks a lot. Thanks. Thanks

Do you have JDM-040?

[C44Supra]

Hi all, first post here. Figured I'd ask here since RDC seems to have a good handle on these controllers. I have a JDM-011 that overnight went bad. It still connects to the PS4 or PC but doesn't seem to register any button presses besides the PS button, triangle or X. When connecting to the PS4 the first notification that always pops up is about screen recording not being allowed (profile selection screen). I currently have nothing connected to the PCB, no touchpad, no motors, no buttons (just the USB board). I can register the ps + x + triangle buttons on the pads that the flex cable would connect to but no other button will work still. I have traced the share buttons tracks and they don't appear to be shorted. One side is ground (obviously) and the other is open all the way to where it disappears under a chip. Any ideas?

[RDC]

The fact some buttons work and others don't is a little odd. Was anything spilled on the controller? What is the Resistance across the Share button? It should be a couple of Mohms or so.

[C44Supra]

Nothing spilled on it no, I take good care of my stuff. Resistance across the switch is roughly 8.2M Ω