Author Topic: DS4 RemappeD JDM-030 and JDM-040 (Read 34075 times)

RDC · « **on:** November 15, 2015, 04:19:28 PM »

This is the updated miniDSm4pper (see here) for the JDM-030 version board (see here) that puts it on par with the X1D (see here) that I've made for the XB1 controller.

Up to 6 Tacts can be installed (minimum of 2 are needed, T1 and T2) and then they can be remapped to X, O, /\, [ ], L1, R1, L3, R3 and the D-pad. NOTE: Remapping D-pad Up and D-pad Down on separate Tacts, or D-pad Left and D-pad Right on separate, and then pressing them together, will not work as that can not be done on the controller anyway.

There are also spots for duplicating L2 and R2, or installing Tacts under the Triggers and wiring to those spots.

Installation is fairly simple and I've not gone into much detail on taking the controller apart as this info is already everywhere.

There are 4 screws to remove the back.

Unplug the Flex cable. Be careful as that is for the USB and Light Bar and it can be damaged easily when reinstalling.

Unplug and remove the battery.

Unclip the Battery Tray and remove.

Unplug the TP flex cable at the top of the PCB. Be careful with this one also.

There is one more screw for the PCB, and then there are 4 clips that hold the PCB in place.

The Rumble motors do not need to be desoldered as the PCB will 'flip' out of the way far enough to do the installation.

FULL VIEW

LEFT SIDE Make sure the Flex is seated under all of the clips.

RIGHT SIDE Make sure the Flex is under the clips on this side also.

Using Touch Pad Button as Mode Any Tact that goes to Ground can be used for the Mode button, and either of the MD pads can be used for this.

MD pad Closest to Touch Pad button used here.

PCB REINSTALLED

LEFT SIDE WIRING Green wire is going to the Green TP spot for the LED pad, aka Green of the Light Bar. The single Red wire is for L3. The row of 4 wires are Blue = T1, Yellow = T3, Red = T4, Black - Ground for T1, T3 and T5. Keep wires routed as shown so noting gets pinched when the back half of the shell is reinstalled. The unused MD pad is an alternate Mode button if you want to use some other button for Mode. The L2 spots are for a duplicate L2 Tact.

RIGHT SIDE WIRING The single Red wire is R3. The row of 4 wires are Blue = T2, Yellow = T4, Red = T6, Black - Ground for T2, T4 and T6. Keep wires routed as shown so noting gets pinched when the back half of the shell is reinstalled. The R2 Spots are for a duplicate R2 Tact.

Tact mounting is a personal preference as much as which ones you choose to use and where they will or will not fit, so it's not shown here.

HOW TO USE

NOTES:
From here on the Tact buttons will be referred to as T1, T2, T3, T4, T5 and T6.
The Mode Button and LED will be referred to as such, not what you wired them up to which will be the TouchPad button and either Red, Green or Blue.

CRS = Cross, X
CIR = Circle, O
SQR = Square, [ ]
TRI = Triangle, /\

Turn the controller on.

1 - Press and Hold T1 and T2.
2 - Tap the Mode Button, the LED will fade on and off.
3 - Release T1 and T2.

* From here on the RemappeD is in the Remap Mode and any of the Tacts can be Remapped in any order you choose, for example, to Remap the CRS Button to T1 you would..

4 - Press and Hold the CRS Button.
5 - Tap T1, LED will flicker.
6 - Release the CRS Button.

* If you're done Remapping the Tact Buttons, you can Exit the Remap Mode by going to step 7, or you can continue to Remap the other Tact Buttons in the same manner by repeating steps 4, 5 and 6, just replace T1 with the Tact you wish to Remap and then use whatever button you want on it, for example..

4 - Press and Hold TRI.
5 - Tap T2, LED will flicker.
6 - Release TRI.

NOTE: This RemappeD only does 1 button per Tact. It does not allow CRS and TRI on the same Tact or any combination like that. You can have all 6 Tacts remapped to TRI if you like, but it will not allow 2 different buttons on the same Tact.

7 - Tap the Mode Button, the LED will fade off and on a few times while the Remaps are being saved, then the LED will turn off. The Remaps are now saved and they will be recalled if the controller is turned off. The Tact Buttons can now be used.

Now when T1 is pressed it's the same as pressing the CRS Button, and when T2 is pressed it's the same as pressing TRI.

You can also disable a Tact Button by changing step 4 to not pressing any Button. For example, to disable T1, enter the Remap Mode like above, then..

4 - Do not press any of the Buttons on the controller.
5 - Press and Hold T1, the LED will blink.
6 - Release T1, the LED will go out.
7 - Tap the Mode Button to exit Remap Mode.

T1 is now blank and will do nothing when pressed. To use it again, just go thru the Remap steps like normal and choose the Button to use on it.

RDC · « **Reply #1 on:** January 05, 2017, 03:27:23 AM »

New version for the JDM-040 'slim' controller has been finished now. Everything still works the same, but the installation is a little more involved.

There are also spots for hard wire duplicating L1, R1, L2 and R2, for example installing Tacts under the Triggers and wiring to those spots for 'hair triggers'.

Installation is fairly simple and I've not gone into much detail on taking the controller apart as this info is already everywhere and hasn't changed much.

There are 4 screws to remove the back.

Unplug the Flex cable. Be careful as that is for the USB and Light Bar and it can be damaged easily when reinstalling.

Unplug and remove the battery.

Unclip the Battery Tray and remove.

Unplug the TP flex cable at the top of the PCB. Be careful with this one also.

There is one more screw for the PCB, and then there are 2 clips that hold the PCB in place.

The Rumble motors do not need to be desoldered as the PCB will 'flip' out of the way far enough to do the installation.

Place the RemappeD board over the contacts as shown, and make sure the holes line up, then solder the MD pad to the TouchPad Tact lead.

Reinstall the controller board into the shell. NOTE: Make sure to reinstall the board screw at this time.

Fold the RemappeD over and solder the 4 connections GND, 3.2v, L3 and the unmarked one just below the T4 pad. This one is purely for keeping the RemappeD in place but must be soldered.

Solder a wire from the R3 pad to the R3 Tact as shown. Then solder a wire from the LED pad to only one of the 3 Resistors at the USB/LED connector. They are Green, Red, Blue in order from top to bottom. The one shown here is wired to the Blue LED of the Light Bar.

Tact installation not shown as it's more personal preference for placement and number of them. T1 and T2 must be installed though as they are used to enter the remap mode. Wire up the Tacts using either TG for the common for them, or any other Ground you like on the controller. Make sure not to route the wires where the battery tray will sit or the bottom half of the shell can pinch them.

HOW TO USE: See above, as this has not changed.

The installation of the DS4 RemappeD on the JDM-050 and -055 is pretty much the same process, but the LED wiring location is on the other side of the board compared to the -040.

WHOISRYO · « **Reply #2 on:** April 25, 2017, 07:52:57 PM »

Do you still have the JDM-040 RemappeD boards for sale RDC?
Would like to buy a couple. I've PM'ed you several times but you haven't replied.
Can you please check your inbox?

Thanks so much

InTheZone · « **Reply #3 on:** June 27, 2017, 06:02:21 PM »

PM Sent

Thanks

Husslla · « **Reply #4 on:** December 03, 2017, 04:18:14 PM »

Where can I buy these flex boards with r2/l2 remap for jdm-040

RDC · « **Reply #5 on:** December 03, 2017, 04:27:00 PM »

These here do not offer that option. No idea who has one that does the Triggers.

Husslla · « **Reply #6 on:** December 04, 2017, 03:18:16 AM »

Hello thx for reply I meant I want to put a tact on r2 and l2 for hairtriggers on newer version ds4

RDC · « **Reply #7 on:** December 04, 2017, 02:58:41 PM »

Gotcha. If that's all you are wanting to do though, you just need the Static Flex, SFX-040, as long as your controller is an -040 or -050 version.

LuckyLucky · « **Reply #8 on:** December 20, 2019, 02:30:05 PM »

I know I'm two years late on this but does anyone know where I can find boards like this? I've literally ordered and have had problems with every other "remap boards" on ebay, arsenal and amazon.

RDC · « **Reply #9 on:** December 20, 2019, 03:27:43 PM »

Sent you a PM.

MCorgano · « **Reply #10 on:** February 14, 2020, 12:27:41 AM »

Where do I buy JDM-040 versions of these? I'm in western canada as per shipping.

Also, I'm learning how to make my own boards and do projects like this myself, and I've made some of the simpler "remap" kits that simply break out the pads. I'm curious about making one of these myself as a challenge / a learning experience. My question is what kind of microprocessor do you use for these? What would you recommend? IS it difficult to solder a micro to flex cable? I don't have hot air, but i have a quarter decent soldering station.

RDC · « **Reply #11 on:** February 14, 2020, 02:07:47 AM »

Sent you a PM.

There is no JDM-040 version anymore, the latest one works on any of the -040/-050/-055 versions as they all work the same way.

I prefer PICs and used a 16bit one for this, but any number of MCUs are more than capable of doing this kind of thing. No need for any ARM 32bit monster running at hundreds of Mhz to press some buttons. As long as it has enough IO and memory to hold your program you're good to go.

If you're going to solder a QFN package or anything more complex than that, a hot air setup is pretty much needed. They really aren't crazy expensive anymore. Soldering to FPC is really no different than soldering to a PCB, just takes some practice. If you get into hot air soldering expect to probably hate it at first, and nuke some things along the way, until you get around the learning curve of it. No reason you can't design it with an SSOP, SOIC or any other package where an iron could be used, just makes it a little larger is all.

MCorgano · « **Reply #12 on:** September 16, 2020, 12:23:46 PM »

So i've been playing with the ones i ordered, using a DAWN remap kit back shell - recently went on half off and work fantastic with these kits.

I'm wondering why mapping to the triggers is not an option? IS it a technical reason or just not usually needed?

RDC · « **Reply #13 on:** September 16, 2020, 12:31:09 PM »

There is some technical stuff going on there to do them properly, nothing that couldn't be done now, but the Triggers were just never really on my list back then, as moving that Analog function to some Digital button you press with a different finger just kind of ruins the feel of it working like a, well a Trigger. If I dug back into it I'd add them, but the DS4 is getting long in the tooth now to be redoing all of that.

If you want to add a fixed Tact for L2 or R2 it has spots for those, but it would be a hard wired an not remappable Tact.

MCorgano · « **Reply #14 on:** January 02, 2021, 04:10:10 AM »

Have you started any work on porting this to the ps5 controllers? I got my hands on one today and am thinking about finding a way to mod it. I don;t have the skill to make a mod chip myself but i might design a replacement pcb you could put the chip on / solder to the 055 version adaptor to get the same functionality.

RDC · « **Reply #15 on:** January 02, 2021, 11:05:19 AM »

The DS4 remapper will not work in the DS5. I've redone all of that for the DS5 and added remapping the L2/R2 to the Tacts on it.

MCorgano · « **Reply #16 on:** April 24, 2023, 12:44:41 AM »

I was in the mood to modify a JDM050 with one of these chips recently, and was wondering if there's a way to patch in the share/options buttons to it. Converting from a hard-wired mod, where I already soldered wires to the vias for these two buttons. Would it be possible to get a modified firmware that reassigns T5/T6 as inputs, so the T1-4 buttons could be assigned to toggle these?

RDC · « **Reply #17 on:** April 24, 2023, 05:00:46 AM »

Technically speaking yes it could be done, but it would be a bit more than a modified firmware.

PM me about how you are using those things and how you expect T1~T4 to toggle them.

MCorgano · « **Reply #18 on:** April 24, 2023, 06:52:09 PM »

Another quick question, is TG the ground / return for the buttons? EX T1-T4 -> 4x switches, ground on each switch -> back to TG? Or should the switches be connected directly to one of the ground pins?

If TG is for "toggle" ex to enter programming mode, that would be TG -> Switch -> ground right? Is it active high or active low?

RDC · « **Reply #19 on:** April 25, 2023, 05:03:22 AM »

TG is Tact Ground, but any ground can be used for them. That pad doesn't even really need to be on there.

MD is the Mode button for getting into and out of remap mode, along with T1 and T2, that hasn't really changed since the first version of it.

MCorgano · « **Reply #20 on:** April 25, 2023, 04:09:22 PM »

Ok so that means all the back/mode buttons are active low right?

What is the behavior of the LED pin? Floating when inactive, pull the line to ground when blinking? I'm adding ARGB to the controller using an rpi4020 to drive them, and want to basically have it read the led pin from the mod and switch to a specific rgb pattern for programming mode.

RDC · « **Reply #21 on:** April 25, 2023, 04:45:25 PM »

All Tacts and Mode are active Lo.

LED pin floats until remap mode is entered where it is turned on and it's Hi, as it turns on a FET in the DS4 to light up the LED, but it will blink until T1 and T2 are released. It also blinks a different speed for each tact as well as when exiting remap mode.

MCorgano · « **Reply #22 on:** April 25, 2023, 06:13:09 PM »

Quote from: RDC on April 25, 2023, 04:45:25 PM

LED pin floats until remap mode is entered where it is turned on and it's Hi, as it turns on a FET in the DS4 to light up the LED, but it will blink until T1 and T2 are released. It also blinks a different speed for each tact as well as when exiting remap mode.

That's actually fantastic, I could have the pr2040 recognize those and give different color output. Would you happen to have handy the mapping for which button -> which sequence?

RDC · « **Reply #23 on:** April 25, 2023, 06:22:56 PM »

The Tact blinking part is just delays, so the LED turns on and off, while the enter/exit 'blinking' is actually PWM so the LED fades on/off. Tossing a scope or LA on that LED line would get you a better idea of what's going on there versus the delays in the code, as I've tinkered with that over the years anyway and have no idea what's on your chip there.

MCorgano · « **Reply #24 on:** April 25, 2023, 06:34:40 PM »

Are there any serial debugging lines on this FPC? I noticed the two pads next to U1, what are those for?

Edit: Also, if I used like a 10K resistor to pin the LED pin from the mod board to ground, will that cause damage to it? Just want to make sure if I use it for signaling that I can have it tied to a known state while idle

RDC · « **Reply #25 on:** April 25, 2023, 06:39:09 PM »

https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/30001037c.pdf

A 10k PD on the LED line wont hurt anything.

MCorgano · « **Reply #26 on:** April 25, 2023, 06:41:15 PM »

Awesome, thanks for the help

News:

Author Topic: DS4 RemappeD JDM-030 and JDM-040 (Read 34075 times)