Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 219909 times)

jointroller97 · « **Reply #120 on:** March 01, 2019, 10:11:39 PM »

im new to all this but i was wondering what solder points can i use to draw power for my led they need 3v to power on, what can i use as a positive and negative? been looking for a long time just seems i haven't found anything from where to get power to add extra leds

RDC · « **Reply #121 on:** March 02, 2019, 03:31:46 AM »

There are no 3v spots in the controller for positive. You need to use a 3.3v one, like TP9, and the proper Resistor value for you LED current rating. Then use a ground spot for the negative, like TP21.

Hobar · « **Reply #122 on:** April 08, 2019, 06:37:48 PM »

Hello everyone.

C23 capacitor is shortcut. I will change. But i don't know C23 value. What is it?

U3 Chip overheat but looks good.

RDC · « **Reply #123 on:** April 08, 2019, 11:50:27 PM »

C23 is a 16uF, 0805

maiojm · « **Reply #124 on:** April 11, 2019, 04:34:26 PM »

Hello everyone!

I have recently decided to try my hand at repairing xbox controllers. I have a controller whose, even after a new thumbstick module has been installed, left stick will not register any movement on the y-axis. Movement on the x-axis works perfectly. I have noticed that when i touch the three pins on the left side along the edge of the board, the y-axis corrects itself to resting position. This makes me think that there is something wrong with the circuit board itself. Any advice on how to fix this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jonathan

RDC · « **Reply #125 on:** April 11, 2019, 08:35:59 PM »

Use a DMM and make sure there is 1.8v on one outside pin and ground on the other of the POT for the Y-axis. The center pin should measure right around 0.9v with the stick in the center position. Ohm out the center pin of the Y axis to TP63 if those all check fine.

Joes · « **Reply #126 on:** April 15, 2019, 10:38:29 PM »

How do you find out what does each TP does?

RDC · « **Reply #127 on:** April 16, 2019, 08:01:03 AM »

You have to sacrifice a Thyristor to the Gods of AC to be able to see thru the smoke that's inside the electronics.

There are several easier ways they can be figured out with common sense and a little work, though it seems like the aforementioned is more attainable nowadays.

Just looking at the board tells you most everything you need to know, because if there is a TP spot on a trace that does this or that, then that's TP this or TP that. Then you can Ohm out the TP spots to other known spots on the board to confirm or figure out where they go. Checking them with a DMM, Scope or Logic Analyzer while the controller is on can also be done.

jointroller97 · « **Reply #128 on:** April 21, 2019, 08:50:53 PM »

now that i have learned my way around the xbox one slim traces i was wondering if theres any mods for the pic12f683 for the xbox one slim. i saw seth mods released hex code but i dont know what pins go where. what im trying to say can anyone show or tell me any website with clear instructions to program a pic12f683 with mods and to install on the xbox one slim

vaxtalas · « **Reply #129 on:** April 22, 2019, 07:02:52 PM »

Hello everyone I am new to this forum and I am very exited all of this work you done, this all helped me a lot <3 I am started to repair Xbox controllers couple months ago and I am practically making all of controllers with thumbstick and visually broken traces problems but I got some trouble with "NO POWER" ones can you please tell me me where to look problems if controller upper power board has problem and don't turn on controller with any type of connection (wired/Xbox battery or regular AA battery)

RDC · « **Reply #130 on:** April 26, 2019, 03:51:19 PM »

@ vaxtalas - Test the bottom board with a known good top board first, make sure the top board is the one that has the problem.

After that, there could be any number of things that would cause that problem. Look for a cracked or scratched board (damaged traces), any missing components, anything that looks discolored or solder joints around the ICs to indicate they have been too hot, just any all of the obvious things first.

If the boards all look good, then you'll need to just start doing voltage checks and comparing a good one to a bad one to see what is missing form where.

micmac · « **Reply #131 on:** June 26, 2019, 05:22:32 PM »

I just wanted to thank you for this thread.
I just got a faulty controller that seemed to have most buttons pressed all the time. After testing the controller with a good button board i realized that's where the problem was and then I started measuring for continuity on the board and comparing to the good board, to see if there was a short somewhere. I couldn't find any. So I started following the traces from the buttons and wound up at U4. For a while I followed the traces from U4 to wherever they went, but without any magnification, that's hard on the eye. So I went to the PC and found this thread with all information on the board and how to find the datasheet for U4.

With this new information I went back to the board and quite quickly found the fault. The reset pin on U4 was not connected to pin 9 on J1. Measuring along the trace, I found that there seemed to be a break between U4 and C37. Obviously I did the easiest thing i could think of and carefully enlargened the hole next to the reset pin and took one strand from a cable and threaded it through the hole. Then I tried to solder the copper strand to the reset pin. Again, no magnification.
Of course i soldered it to the next pin and the capacitor right above (C28) as well, so time to remove the solder. After struggeling for a bit I got rid of the excess and turned the board over to solder that end of the strand to C37. That's when the strand fell out. Apparently it wasn't soldered to the reset pin.
So I start over with a new strand of copper wire, thread it through the hole and solder it to the reset pin. This time I make sure that it's stuck. I turn the board over and solder the other end to C37 and then i measure for continuity between the reset pin and pin 9 on J1.

BEEEEP!

It doesn't look pretty, but at least the controller is working now.

As you may understand, this was my first time dealing with this kind of problem, and again, this thread was a great helping hand!

RDC · « **Reply #132 on:** June 26, 2019, 08:29:45 PM »

Welcome. Good deal with the troubleshooting and repair, and pretty don't ever mean it will work right.

Toffe · « **Reply #133 on:** July 09, 2019, 03:49:59 PM »

My power pcb has broken at the thin part next to the right thumbstick which resulted in DU and DR not working properly so I first attempted to expose all the traces there (4 traces on one side and 1 on the other side) and then applying solder right on top of the traces in order to patch them up. I screwed this up so I ended up just filing off all the traces in this area and then solder jumper wires directly from the buttons (the via pads) to the testpads, however I'm not able to make the solder stick to the pads. Any tips here?

RDC · « **Reply #134 on:** July 09, 2019, 03:54:45 PM »

If you can't get solder to stick to the TP spots, then you're either using not enough heat, or far too much heat and have burnt them off the board. They already have solder on them, so it doesn't take much at all to get a wire attached to them.

Post a good pic of the damaged area and board if you can.

Toffe · « **Reply #135 on:** July 12, 2019, 12:46:38 PM »

Quote from: RDC on July 09, 2019, 03:54:45 PM

If you can't get solder to stick to the TP spots, then you're either using not enough heat, or far too much heat and have burnt them off the board. They already have solder on them, so it doesn't take much at all to get a wire attached to them.

Post a good pic of the damaged area and board if you can.

I was able to make it stick when I scratched off a layer to expose the copper. The break is pretty much exactly at the label "LB1" shown on the first picture in the thread. It affects both sides of the board. I filed down the traces on both sides here since they seemed to interfer with each other and solder in bypass wires between the switch pads and the corresponding "test points, but now I'm not able to get DU and DL to work. When I measure the voltage on DR and DD (which are working) they show 3.3V while open. DL and DU show approx 0.3V while open, so there seems to be an issue with pullup resistors here. However when I connect the pad and run the calibration tool in windows both DL and DU show up as not activated, which is strange since they are pulled low at 0.3V.

Does anyone know the switches are configured? Are there passive low pass (RC) filters as well?

RDC · « **Reply #136 on:** July 12, 2019, 01:15:41 PM »

There are no PU Resistors on the button lines, all of them on that top board (except for Guide, and then Y runs thru R42 first but it's a 0ohm jumper) run directly to U4. Check the voltage for DU and DL right at the leads of U4, pins 11 and 13. If you have 3.3v there, then you still have a break somewhere in those traces. If they also measure 0.3v, then there is an issue with U4.

Toffe · « **Reply #137 on:** July 12, 2019, 01:59:06 PM »

Quote from: RDC on July 12, 2019, 01:15:41 PM

There are no PU Resistors on the button lines, all of them on that top board (except for Guide, and then Y runs thru R42 first but it's a 0ohm jumper) run directly to U4. Check the voltage for DU and DL right at the leads of U4, pins 11 and 13. If you have 3.3v there, then you still have a break somewhere in those traces. If they also measure 0.3v, then there is an issue with U4.

When only the top board is connected (USB) it won't turn on at all and I measure 0V. If I connect both boards it turns on, but then I'm not getting access to the uc in order to measure..

By the way, there are a total of 5 traces severed (four on the button side and one on the battery side), which should mean there's at least one other peripheral out of function. I'm not even sure all the D-pad buttons goes through these traces.

RDC · « **Reply #138 on:** July 12, 2019, 03:36:40 PM »

The bottom trace is DR.

Top traces are DL, DU, SY and DD.

coatzavideojuego · « **Reply #139 on:** August 08, 2019, 09:34:03 PM »

i need help diode type and values please i need replace 1

RDC · « **Reply #140 on:** August 12, 2019, 04:06:48 AM »

You are going to have to be a little more specific than that.

jointroller97 · « **Reply #141 on:** August 27, 2019, 07:36:17 AM »

is there any solder points i can use as a switch to turn off and on a led light? i dont want to add a external switch that sticks out. is there any chance i can use the sync button as a switch then again idk which solder points to use please help and thank you for your time

RDC · « **Reply #142 on:** August 27, 2019, 05:20:11 PM »

Not how you're thinking, no. You would need to put some type of circuit between the button and LED in order to make that work.

I used to use the G22AP switch a lot, it's small enough to not be in the way. https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=G22ap

jointroller97 · « **Reply #143 on:** August 27, 2019, 06:28:23 PM »

i have a chip i just need 2 solder points that when i press a button creates a circuit. it doesnt have to remain closed. im bad at explaining but think about it as the "A" button once you press it it closes the circuit for less than a ms thats all i need one press of a button and closes and opens right away back with one press

RDC · « **Reply #144 on:** August 27, 2019, 06:44:06 PM »

No idea if it will work not knowing how the chip is setup. The Sync button, as do all of the controller buttons, go to ground when pressed, so if they made the chip that way you'd only need one of those wires to possibly make that work.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #145 on:** September 16, 2019, 09:02:16 AM »

Hello, I have a 1708 model controller which seems to have a bad resistor or capacitor, on the left joystick, the controller won’t register anything on the Y axis and is not module related since I tried with a few new joystick modules already, so definitely is a resistor or capacitor issue, do you guys know which ones controls or are related to the left stick Y and X axis?

Thanks in advance.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #146 on:** September 16, 2019, 09:05:26 AM »

Btw, the board copper pads are in perfect shape and the whole board itself as well, no broken or cracked traces.

RDC · « **Reply #147 on:** September 16, 2019, 12:43:06 PM »

There are no Resistors on the Y-axis line. A shorted Capacitor (C22) on that line would cause the Stick to go full in one direction.

If the Stick is staying roughly in the center position or just jumping all over the place, then there is most likely an open trace somewhere or an issue on the smaller castellated MCU board.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #148 on:** September 16, 2019, 08:52:25 PM »

The thing is that the Y axis won’t respond at all, there isn’t any kind of drift whatsoever, I would not respond at all, sometimes it RESPONDS SLIGHTLY only upwards, but downwards won’t respond at all

RDC · « **Reply #149 on:** September 17, 2019, 06:26:52 AM »

What position is it stuck at? Use the PC or some app to see.

What voltage is on the center pin of the POT with the Stick at center? Then with the Stick fully up/down?

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 219909 times)