Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 223024 times)

FlexBitt · « **Reply #60 on:** April 06, 2018, 07:14:48 AM »

Can i ask for the U2 and U3 what is it? I want to order replacment from aliexpres.

Thank you

RDC · « **Reply #61 on:** April 06, 2018, 08:21:23 AM »

They are both MP3414 and not on AliExpress.

VaNDAL_UK · « **Reply #62 on:** April 09, 2018, 07:19:48 AM »

Quote from: irvgotti452 on April 05, 2018, 05:25:34 PM

Funny thing, coincidentally I repaired one of those today.
It was bad. Lifted traces, ripped up pads.
This is how it turned out before I hit it with an overcoat pen.

Works great now. Batteries and USB.

I had one last week and it was alittle more toasted that that one. Took awhile as well due to me replacing a diode with a faulty one. Check out the video.

https://youtu.be/oAiVPDs03o0

FlexBitt · « **Reply #63 on:** April 10, 2018, 11:47:55 AM »

I have a new intersting found out. The S controller not power on from USB until the antena cabel is connected. If it's connected the U3 is getting realy hot.
I have changed the U3 from an old panel and the problem stil exists....
If the antena is not connected then the board turns on and the U3 is not getting hot.

Any idea?

RDC · « **Reply #64 on:** April 10, 2018, 01:28:55 PM »

The Antenna has noting at all to do with the controller power, other than the shielding for it being another ground connection.

Post good pics of the boards, top and bottom, as well as close ups of the damaged area and repair work, because that problem makes no sense at all.

FlexBitt · « **Reply #65 on:** April 17, 2018, 06:45:10 AM »

So let me take what i know.
I have a board where it not goes on USB when the antena is on. Your right the antenna is a GND when its on the board but when you move it from then 3,3V is on the point.

when i conect it by hand in the bad panel it shuts down all. But when i change it with a working panel it dosen't go of. So i think the problem is under the chip which has an metal on it. Hope i write it understandable:D

RDC · « **Reply #66 on:** April 17, 2018, 11:24:23 AM »

There should be no 3.3v on the antenna unless it is plugged in, and even then it is not a 3.3v power source.

I have no idea what 'panel' you are referring to. If you mean that it works fine with another MCU board, then it will be difficult to track down the problem without comparing the two so you can find the fault.

FlexBitt · « **Reply #67 on:** April 25, 2018, 06:40:38 AM »

Okey, i have changed the U1/ U2 / U3 for new ones. And find out that the problem is something else. I think the problem is the big "chip" where you connenct the antena on the board where are the analogs are. Because whe i cange for a new board then everything is okey.
It's an 1626 board. Have any one some idea?

RDC · « **Reply #68 on:** May 07, 2018, 01:34:55 PM »

Check the MCU board alone and see if the 3.3v rail is shorted to ground, J5 pin 4 is 3.3v. If it is shorted, remove C7 and test again. If the short is gone, replace C7 with a 100uF, 0805, 6.3v or higher and try it.

lukasz · « **Reply #69 on:** May 09, 2018, 04:01:26 AM »

Hello everyone, I am asking for help. What is the transistor shown in the picture?
Element Q9.

MattP79 · « **Reply #70 on:** May 09, 2018, 05:12:02 AM »

I'm struggling to identify some components. Can anyone help?

Firstly D23 / D22 (and D14) which appear to be top marked D2 or O2. I've read on here they are Schottky type and appear to be SOD323 package. I'd hazard a guess they must be rated for 6V or more and capable of handling 1A or more (MP2161 maxes out at 3.5A but the USB on the console only outputs 500ma?)? (D2 / D25 / D27 I can identify as 1N4148WS which have A2 or T4 marking)

Secondly the EG components - specifically EG1 on the MCH board. I have a missing EG1 on a board which I suspect is why there's no audio on the headphone socket.

Many thanks in advance

FlexBitt · « **Reply #71 on:** May 09, 2018, 06:41:29 AM »

Quote from: RDC on May 07, 2018, 01:34:55 PM

Check the MCU board alone and see if the 3.3v rail is shorted to ground, J5 pin 4 is 3.3v. If it is shorted, remove C7 and test again. If the short is gone, replace C7 with a 100uF, 0805, 6.3v or higher and try it.

I have removed the C7 and the ESR value is good, and stil not powering on. Have checked a working panel, had removed the C7 and still works.
So still no clue for this probleme. Only works when i remove the antena but this way the PC from bluetooth not recognize it.

MattP79 · « **Reply #72 on:** May 09, 2018, 09:46:36 AM »

Do you have a short to ground on the Bluetooth antenna?

RDC · « **Reply #73 on:** May 09, 2018, 12:23:35 PM »

@ lukasz - Q9 is just a simple NPN Transistor. The MMBT3904 should work fine there.

@ MattP79 - The D23 and like are just a Schottky type, and 1A should be fine for them. The EG components are some type of TVS diode or MOV. It should work without them, unless it's torn up the pad/trace. Best place for a replacement part there would be another controller board so the value is correct.

@ FlexBitt - You'll have to just start doing comparing on that dead board to a know good one to try and narrow it down. It could be the RF portion of the circuit or the chip is bad sending VCC out on the antennae line so when it's plugged up it shorts. I haven't seen or heard of that issue before.

lukasz · « **Reply #74 on:** May 10, 2018, 12:31:53 AM »

@ RDC Thank you very much, after installing the indicated transistor, the problem was solved.

lukasz · « **Reply #75 on:** May 10, 2018, 04:20:36 AM »

Hello, I have another problem. The problem is with the buttons, they are pressed all the time. I check the voltage on the buttons.
What can I check to find the cause?

Tp27 - 0v

Tp 22 0v + Tp 22 - 0,33V

Tp 25 0v on + Tp 25 on - 0,33V

Tp 13 - 5 V

Tp 35 - 3,35 V

Does anyone know the name of this U4 layout?

RDC · « **Reply #76 on:** May 10, 2018, 10:25:06 AM »

U4 is an IO Expander, PCAL6416A made by NXP, you can Google up the DataSheet for it's pinout.

Can you tell if the B, LSC and RSC buttons still work normally? They're not part of that IO expander chip and should still be working.

There could be no power getting to U4, or it could be bad. There might be some issue with the I2C lines, and you'll really need a scope, or better a Logic Analyzer, to see if those are doing what they should be or not.

lukasz · « **Reply #77 on:** May 10, 2018, 10:52:05 AM »

Thank you very much for your answer. The B, LSC and RSC buttons operate normally. After checking the buttons on the computer, I jumped out that the others are still pressed. And after connecting to the Xbox, something is always selected and the picture jumps.

VDD - 3,35 V
ADDR - 3,35 V
VSS - GROUND
P0_0 - GROUND
Resistance beetwen Vdd and P0_1 - P0_5 - 0 ohm
Vss to P0_1 - P0_5 - 0,5 V (diode measurement )

RDC · « **Reply #78 on:** May 11, 2018, 08:20:55 AM »

You need to zoom out a bit on the LA there, as you're only looking at 8 bits worth of data and from those screenshots you can't tell much.

lukasz · « **Reply #79 on:** May 11, 2018, 08:45:26 AM »

RDC · « **Reply #80 on:** May 11, 2018, 02:08:45 PM »

Not sure how you define 'a bit' there, but that's not really what I meant.

Are you probing the board for the SDA and SCL signals at TP30 and TP31? and are you only getting those 8bit bursts?

FlexBitt · « **Reply #81 on:** August 03, 2018, 02:19:13 AM »

Hi and good summer everyone!

Do some one know something to solve this problem. This is a X913436-007 board

RDC · « **Reply #82 on:** August 03, 2018, 02:20:12 PM »

All of those buttons are on the top board, so the very first thing that I would do is try a whole other top board from a know working controller. Then if that worked, I would look at the SDA and SCL lines of the bad board with a Logic Analyzer to see what is going on there, then I'd replace U4 on the top board and see if that corrected it.

FlexBitt · « **Reply #83 on:** August 03, 2018, 10:38:36 PM »

It was not the U4 because i have changed ut from a working board and the problem is same.

RDC · « **Reply #84 on:** August 04, 2018, 04:44:40 AM »

You need to find out which board has the problem before swapping out components on it.

FlexBitt · « **Reply #85 on:** August 06, 2018, 01:33:29 AM »

I have chacked first, it was the front board where is the dpad is. The analog board is good.

RDC · « **Reply #86 on:** August 06, 2018, 05:50:53 AM »

Then you need to put a LA on it and see what is going on, because U4 is the only thing on there that reads those buttons. It may not be getting power, might have some cracked trace on the board or short on the data/clock line, but it's something that is affecting U4 there.

saulveloz · « **Reply #87 on:** August 18, 2018, 02:04:49 AM »

Guys i bought a used controller it wasn't repaired previously, but had a crazy right stick when removing it i ripped up a pad but can't figure out where is the test point for the Right Stick Y Axis Its 1708 Model
any help would be apreciated

RDC · « **Reply #88 on:** August 18, 2018, 02:18:27 AM »

Follow the trace just to the right of the lead, it goes to TP65, kind of right under the antenna.

saulveloz · « **Reply #89 on:** September 04, 2018, 03:39:44 AM »

Quote from: RDC on August 18, 2018, 02:18:27 AM

Follow the trace just to the right of the lead, it goes to TP65, kind of right under the antenna.

Thank you so much, i didn't saw the trace because of the dam antena, but now i bought a multimeter, thanks again!

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 223024 times)