Author Topic: damaged elite controller board (Read 9939 times)

Mason2012 · « **on:** July 20, 2018, 12:46:16 AM »

Hello guys. Reddit recomended you. I have Xb1 elite controller. on analog board some smd chips out. 1 con 3 diods. see photo. Now left stick not work(installed/ not installed on pcb board). infinite drift analog.
what niminals smd i lost? how can i fix this?

RDC · « **Reply #1 on:** July 20, 2018, 09:14:03 PM »

The missing parts really are not critical. C20 there is 1uF if you want to replace it, but it's not going to correct the drifting.

The real issue is that the controller is calibrated with the stick that is was made with. So any time you change one out, or even remove one and reinstall it, it will cause it to be a little bit off.

As long as you still have most all of the full range of movement, you'll have to adjust the POTs on the Stick there to recenter them. That means desoldering the POT, unclipping it from the Stick housing there, cutting the little posts in the corners, not the tabs on the sides, just the posts, then clipping it back on the Stick housing and turning it in whichever direction is needed to get it to read center again.

Mason2012 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 25, 2018, 06:09:13 AM »

thank. diods niminal?

RDC · « **Reply #3 on:** July 25, 2018, 06:59:54 AM »

They are just some TVS Diodes for protection and will not correct the drifting issue.

Mason2012 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 25, 2018, 11:10:52 PM »

oh. i noob... what i can do? how can fix that. stick not responsed when installed on board. So stick have infinite drift(installed|not installed) when i close contacts D24 -push LS. when close contact on right side stick become to top right, down position.

RDC · « **Reply #5 on:** July 26, 2018, 02:46:56 AM »

Are you saying the Stick does not work at all?

If it does not work at all, post up a picture of the bottom side of the board. It looks like some of the Vias are torn out and that would be the cause of that.

Mason2012 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 26, 2018, 04:30:43 AM »

torn out 1 kondensator and 3 diodes . see images. its all. i not find other

RDC · « **Reply #7 on:** July 26, 2018, 04:41:08 AM »

Via is a term used for the copper plating that is inside the holes where the Stick installs. It connects the traces on the top of the board to the the traces on the bottom as well. I can clearly see damage there in the fourth pic, so that is not all. The X-axis Via looks bad, the Y-axis VCC rail Via also looks bad as well as a torn up trace for the LSC button, and who knows what it looks like on the other side where you had the soldering iron on it.

Mason2012 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 26, 2018, 04:53:25 AM »

oh. crap. i add images. look

RDC · « **Reply #9 on:** July 26, 2018, 06:09:50 AM »

Yeah those things look torn out. You should still be able to get it working though after doing some trace repairs with jumper wires.

I would use 30awg wire for the repairs.

Red will fix the VCC rail (AN+) power to the Sticks, TP103 to both marked spots.

Blue will fix the Y-axis, top side of R50 to marked spot.

Green will fix the X-axis, marked spot to bottom side of R34 on top of the board. You could also just run the wire from R34 thru the hole there instead, as long as it is small enough so it and the Stick lead fit.

Yellow will fix LSC, TP106 to marked spot.

Mason2012 · « **Reply #10 on:** July 26, 2018, 08:58:53 PM »

Big thank mate. I will try this today. Hope its can fix problem. But what about diodes(nominals) or its can be work without that smd elements?

RDC · « **Reply #11 on:** July 26, 2018, 09:45:06 PM »

It does not need the TVS Diodes to work.

Mason2012 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 27, 2018, 04:52:03 AM »

Its really work.

you awesome dude. Thank. But i need other 3d analog,

damage it early...
Its so hard was for me. But it possible. I do new post later. I have damaged ps4 . Jdm-030. Bud luck when do scuf mod

RDC · « **Reply #13 on:** July 27, 2018, 07:00:47 AM »

You're Welcome.

You should have come to AcidMods sooner with your JDM-030

https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43753.0.html

Mason2012 · « **Reply #14 on:** July 27, 2018, 10:08:40 PM »

hi. where i can post my ds4 problem? where is right place

RDC · « **Reply #15 on:** July 27, 2018, 11:57:34 PM »

In the PS4 section of the forums.

Mason2012 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 31, 2018, 02:46:58 PM »

Hello again. Jdm 030 i damaged again when remove left analog. Hah. Post that later.
So. I fix not working analog. But now it have drift little bit down. It was on china analog and analog from jdm 030 ps4. I dont undestand what you mean when said about calibrating. I dont see how its can calibrating.

RDC · « **Reply #17 on:** July 31, 2018, 02:54:09 PM »

You have to do it by moving the POT on the Stick housing.

You'll have to adjust the POTs on the Stick there to recenter them. That means...

1 - Desoldering the POT.
2 - Unclipping it from the Stick housing there.
3 - Cutting the little posts in the corners, not the tabs on the sides, just the posts.
4 - Then clipping it back on the Stick housing and turning it in whichever direction is needed to get it to read center again.

Phreakheaven · « **Reply #18 on:** November 14, 2019, 11:57:07 PM »

I've been fixing controllers for a few years, and now have a new issue on an XB1 Elite. The left stick drifts on x-axis between 0.23 and 0.25, mostly. Usually, each analog replacement has it's own DIFFERENT amount of drift; sometimes acceptable (0.05), but usually not (above 0.10), and so far never almost exactly the same (0.23-0.25) terrible drift with every analog. I've tested several analog mechs (I bend the pins to make contact through the vias before soldering) and experienced the same results.

Based on your instructions for correcting drift, there's nothing in the circuitry that could possibly cause this? I've replaced the diode, cap, and resistor and no change in behavior, which was expected, but I'm looking to eliminate all possibilities. I don't have photos right now, but will get them tomorrow for reference.

I modified an image from above since it was very similar, but don't see an option to attach...there must be some prerequisites.

Thanks for any help! You all seem much more experienced with this, and I hope I can learn more!

RDC · « **Reply #19 on:** November 15, 2019, 07:06:34 AM »

Correct, there is really jack all you can do about a controller with bad drift and have to correct it manually. The Diode is only for surge protection. The Capacitor is just for decoupling. The Resistor is in series with the Wiper so it's just a current limiter. The circuit will work essentially the same with or without any or all of those components on there.

The thing was most likely calibrated with a crap Stick in there from the start, so any 'good' one you toss in there is just going to seem bad. Pretty great setup huh?

Not really getting the bending the pins thing? That would do nothing for drift. The POT has to be rotated on the housing so the Wiper sits in a different location to correct drift.

Phreakheaven · « **Reply #20 on:** November 15, 2019, 01:51:00 PM »

Oh, right, bending the pins is specifically to create the connection, rather than just continually soldering/desoldering new analogs, so I can test with HTML5gamepad.com first (image attached).

Thank you very much for the explanation! It's very helpful to understand the circuit further, since I've been trying to troubleshoot these with hardly any info over the past few years.

Could you please indicate exactly how to modify the POTs to "correct" drifting? I'm fuzzy on your instructions, and can't imagine chopping the plastic posts (from the pins part) off would help with drifting.

Thanks again!

RDC · « **Reply #21 on:** November 15, 2019, 03:12:45 PM »

Gotcha on the lead bending now.

Your last pic, the 3 little posts in the corners there keep the POT fixed to the metal housing in one position. You cut all 3 of those off flush. Do not cut the 2 larger tabs, as they are what hold the POT onto the metal Stick housing.

With those 3 posts cut, when you clip the POT back onto the housing , it's free to rotate (albeit slightly as the tabs only let it move so far) but it usually doesn't take much rotation at all to correct one. Then solder it in place and you're good to go.

What happens when you do that is you are changing where the Wiper sits for the center position. It's the same thing as if you just barely moved the Stick itself a hair with your thumb to the correct center spot, but you obviously can't hold it there all the time, so you''re rotating the POT instead of moving the Stick to get things centered back up in there.

Phreakheaven · « **Reply #22 on:** November 15, 2019, 07:56:14 PM »

I appreciate all the details! I will give it a shot on Monday and reply further if needed. You've been very prompt and helpful!

J0NaSk8 · « **Reply #23 on:** June 06, 2020, 09:39:08 PM »

Hello! Can anyone helpme? I’ve a RS on elite controller that not Work nothing. And i dont have the DIOde 26, i try to créate a bridge in this place but Noh Work. Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #24 on:** June 07, 2020, 12:14:16 AM »

Remove the solder bridge at D26. That is an ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge) device. It does not need to be in there to work and a solder bridge (short) in place of any component that is not already a wire or jumper of some sort will only cause a problem. Remove C27 also since it could be shorted internally or doing nothing at all after being broken off the board.

Post some pics of the area around the stick if removing those do not fix it.

J0NaSk8 · « **Reply #25 on:** June 07, 2020, 09:31:28 AM »

i do the changes but still without Work

RDC · « **Reply #26 on:** June 07, 2020, 02:38:22 PM »

OK, well, solder a jumper wire as shown to TP103 and the 2 leads of the POTs and then test.

J0NaSk8 · « **Reply #27 on:** June 08, 2020, 07:50:25 PM »

thanks if it worked! Would there be a way that I could reward or thank him?

RDC · « **Reply #28 on:** June 09, 2020, 02:49:59 AM »

Welcome. You can donate on the home page to help keep this website going if you like.

InternetC · « **Reply #29 on:** July 11, 2020, 03:21:33 PM »

Quote from: RDC on July 26, 2018, 06:09:50 AM

Yeah those things look torn out. You should still be able to get it working though after doing some trace repairs with jumper wires.

I would use 30awg wire for the repairs.

Red will fix the VCC rail (AN+) power to the Sticks, TP103 to both marked spots.

Blue will fix the Y-axis, top side of R50 to marked spot.

Green will fix the X-axis, marked spot to bottom side of R34 on top of the board. You could also just run the wire from R34 thru the hole there instead, as long as it is small enough so it and the Stick lead fit.

Yellow will fix LSC, TP106 to marked spot.

This is awesome. How did you figure this out? All by yourself? Is there a schematic I can download somewhere that shows where each of the joystick points can be wired to? And perhaps a diagram/picture for other models as well?

RDC · « **Reply #30 on:** July 12, 2020, 04:52:16 PM »

Thanks. With a DMM. Yes. No schematics. The different board versions and TP spots for most things are on this forum in the pinned section here - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/board,537.0.html.

Mac123 · « **Reply #31 on:** July 13, 2020, 10:55:58 PM »

Quote from: RDC on November 15, 2019, 03:12:45 PM

Gotcha on the lead bending now.

Your last pic, the 3 little posts in the corners there keep the POT fixed to the metal housing in one position. You cut all 3 of those off flush. Do not cut the 2 larger tabs, as they are what hold the POT onto the metal Stick housing.

With those 3 posts cut, when you clip the POT back onto the housing , it's free to rotate (albeit slightly as the tabs only let it move so far) but it usually doesn't take much rotation at all to correct one. Then solder it in place and you're good to go.

What happens when you do that is you are changing where the Wiper sits for the center position. It's the same thing as if you just barely moved the Stick itself a hair with your thumb to the correct center spot, but you obviously can't hold it there all the time, so you''re rotating the POT instead of moving the Stick to get things centered back up in there.

Awesome. I’m going to try this out tomorrow. I have a few controllers I just gave up on.

Twiztid · « **Reply #32 on:** May 06, 2022, 12:56:08 PM »

Quote from: RDC on July 26, 2018, 06:09:50 AM

Yeah those things look torn out. You should still be able to get it working though after doing some trace repairs with jumper wires.

I would use 30awg wire for the repairs.

Red will fix the VCC rail (AN+) power to the Sticks, TP103 to both marked spots.

Blue will fix the Y-axis, top side of R50 to marked spot.

Green will fix the X-axis, marked spot to bottom side of R34 on top of the board. You could also just run the wire from R34 thru the hole there instead, as long as it is small enough so it and the Stick lead fit.

Yellow will fix LSC, TP106 to marked spot.

would it be possible to draw both analogues if one destroyed the contacts during soldering? or I have to send pictures

SW1
https://ibb.co/f92FDJK
https://ibb.co/RD4HFxy
https://ibb.co/1JDXFYP

SW2
https://ibb.co/VDvn7cP
https://ibb.co/s5vBXPN
https://ibb.co/vwp6LDJ

RDC · « **Reply #33 on:** May 06, 2022, 02:41:13 PM »

SW1 - Jumper wire 3 and 4 together on the bottom of the board, then run another jumper wire from 3 or 4 to TP103.

SW2 - Same thing, jumper wire 3 and 4 together, then another one to TP103. Then jumper wire 2 to TP102.

Twiztid · « **Reply #34 on:** May 06, 2022, 11:39:07 PM »

and with sw2 does it matter that the paths to the diodes are torn off? 2 - d27 3- d28. it will be enough to connect 2- tp102 and 3,4 together and k t tp103. otherwise each hole has contact with the other side

https://ibb.co/1vjDR2L
https://ibb.co/pjWv9pz

RDC · « **Reply #35 on:** May 07, 2022, 05:25:30 AM »

You can get that deep into the repair and put them back in the circuit if you prefer, but you're not going to notice any difference in how it works for that added work.

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Author Topic: damaged elite controller board (Read 9939 times)