Author Topic: damaged elite controller board  (Read 9963 times)

Offline RDC

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Re: damaged elite controller board
« Reply #30 on: July 12, 2020, 04:52:16 PM »
Thanks. With a DMM. Yes. No schematics. The different board versions and TP spots for most things are on this forum in the pinned section here - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/board,537.0.html.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline Mac123

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Re: damaged elite controller board
« Reply #31 on: July 13, 2020, 10:55:58 PM »
Gotcha on the lead bending now.

Your last pic, the 3 little posts in the corners there keep the POT fixed to the metal housing in one position. You cut all 3 of those off flush. Do not cut the 2 larger tabs, as they are what hold the POT onto the metal Stick housing.

With those 3 posts cut, when you clip the POT back onto the housing , it's free to rotate (albeit slightly as the tabs only let it move so far) but it usually doesn't take much rotation at all to correct one. Then solder it in place and you're good to go.

What happens when you do that is you are changing where the Wiper sits for the center position. It's the same thing as if you just barely moved the Stick itself a hair with your thumb to the correct center spot, but you obviously can't hold it there all the time, so you''re rotating the POT instead of moving the Stick to get things centered back up in there.

Awesome.  I’m going to try this out tomorrow.  I have a few controllers I just gave up on.

Offline Twiztid

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Re: damaged elite controller board
« Reply #32 on: May 06, 2022, 12:56:08 PM »
Yeah those things look torn out. You should still be able to get it working though after doing some trace repairs with jumper wires.


I would use 30awg wire for the repairs.

Red will fix the VCC rail (AN+) power to the Sticks, TP103 to both marked spots.

Blue will fix the Y-axis, top side of R50 to marked spot.

Green will fix the X-axis, marked spot to bottom side of R34 on top of the board. You could also just run the wire from R34 thru the hole there instead, as long as it is small enough so it and the Stick lead fit.

Yellow will fix LSC, TP106 to marked spot.






would it be possible to draw both analogues if one destroyed the contacts during soldering? or I have to send pictures


SW1
https://ibb.co/f92FDJK
https://ibb.co/RD4HFxy
https://ibb.co/1JDXFYP

SW2
https://ibb.co/VDvn7cP
https://ibb.co/s5vBXPN
https://ibb.co/vwp6LDJ
« Last Edit: May 06, 2022, 01:46:39 PM by Twiztid »

Offline RDC

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Re: damaged elite controller board
« Reply #33 on: May 06, 2022, 02:41:13 PM »
SW1 - Jumper wire 3 and 4 together on the bottom of the board, then run another jumper wire from 3 or 4 to TP103.

SW2 - Same thing, jumper wire 3 and 4 together, then another one to TP103. Then jumper wire 2 to TP102.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline Twiztid

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Re: damaged elite controller board
« Reply #34 on: May 06, 2022, 11:39:07 PM »
and with sw2 does it matter that the paths to the diodes are torn off?  2 - d27 3- d28.  it will be enough to connect 2- tp102 and 3,4 together and k t tp103.  otherwise each hole has contact with the other side

https://ibb.co/1vjDR2L
https://ibb.co/pjWv9pz

Offline RDC

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Re: damaged elite controller board
« Reply #35 on: May 07, 2022, 05:25:30 AM »
You can get that deep into the repair and put them back in the circuit if you prefer, but you're not going to notice any difference in how it works for that added work.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

 

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