XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1698 "Elite"

[RDC]

The Elite controller added a switch for changing between controller profiles and 4 additional buttons on the back. At the core it's pretty much a 1697 though, just seems to have updated firmware and slight hardware changes for the aforementioned changes.


1698 BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP



1698 BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM



1698 MCU BOARD TOP


1698 MCU BOARD BOTTOM



1698 ALTERNATE BUTTONS BOARD TOP



1698 ALTERNATE BUTTONS BOARD BOTTOM



J1/J5 Connector Pinout

1 - RUMBLE MOTOR+
2 - DR
3 - DU
4 - DD
5 - DL
6 - SY
7 - SWITCH (1 Grounded, 2 Open)
8 - 5v USB
9 - LB
10 - D+ USB
11 - POWER OK / SHUTDOWN
12 - D- USB
13 - GROUND
14 - GROUND


J2/J6 Connector Pinout

1 - V+ (3v Wired), (Battery Voltage Wireless)
2 - LED (under GU, does not drive LED directly)
3 - GROUND
4 - 3.3v
5 - RB
6 - GU (thru D27) Only Guide will work if J2/J6 pin 6 is used for new/alternate Guide button. Use Cathode side of D27 on Power/Button board or controller will not power on when it's pressed.
7 - USB Cable LED
8 - A
9 - X
10 - Y
11 - VW
12 - MN
13 - PNC DETECTION
14 - GROUND


BUTTON/POWER BOARD TEST POINTS

TP1 - Manufacturing test point of carbon film at SW7, X button, ~115 ohms to ground (top side test)
TP2 - Manufacturing test point of carbon film at SW7, X button, ~115 ohms to ground (bottom side test)


MCU BOARD TEST POINTS (some)
TP3 - RESET_b

TP15 - SWD_CLK

TP17 - SWD_DIO

TP21   - GND

TP89 - 3.3v

TP99   - LSY, goes thru R50 first, 1k
TP100 - LSX, goes thru R34 first, 1k
TP101 - RSY, goes thru R58 first, 1k
TP102 - RSX, goes thru R57 first, 1k
TP103 - AN+ (vRef)
TP104 - RT
TP105 - LT
TP106 - LSC
TP107 - RSC

TP110 - GND

TP118 - 3.5v (Rumble)

TP130 - GND

TP132 - GND
TP133 - GND
TP134 - GND
TP135 - GND

TP137 - GND
TP138 - GND


ALTERNATE BUTTONS BOARD TEST POINTS

FT1 - SW4
FT2 - SW3
FT3 - SW2
FT4 - SW1
FT5 - GND
FT6 - GND
FT7 - GND


My Schematic* of the Button/Power Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201698%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf


* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out.

[skysheep132]

does anyone have anymore information on these controllers?

[Elgatillo263]

Hello i have a problem Whit mine
This problem consist when i plug the control to the pc it looks like the right stick goes up and then i pulled out from the pcb to replace whit another wich is working but the pc detects the right stick and still goes up but this time without the whole stick and sensors
What could make this problem?

[RDC]

Broken trace, cracked board, solder bridge.

[Elgatillo263]

Ok rdc thanks for your fast reply XD
So i checked continuity’s betwen r58(rsy) and tp101 its ok
Also i checked the value of the resistance (r58) and its fine (1k)
So what other parts of the board need check
Thanks in advance

[RDC]

The solder joints of the POT, and anywhere you put the iron to it. A pic of your board might help.

[Elgatillo263]

Sorry for my late response but already dont have the mobo but tomorrow i gonna post a picture of them
But i can say it was using the controller with a jumper from the rsy diode to the second pin of the sensor cause i blowed up the line XD

[khanscott]

I tried to repair my Xbox One Elite controller and in the process of removing the analog sticks, I seem to have removed the component on D27 as well. If possible, could I please get information on that component so I can try and replacement for it?

[RDC]

It's some type of TVS Diode, I haven't bothered to dig any more than that. It's not needed and will work perfectly fine without it.

[khanscott]

It's some type of TVS Diode, I haven't bothered to dig any more than that. It's not needed and will work perfectly fine without it.

Ah TYVM for the info! I'm still fairly new to repairing stuff so things like this are over my head. >_<

[Elgatillo263]

Ok so i dont know how to upload images to this forum but now the left stick is failing to but this time i don move nothing if i found a way to post the images I’ll do XD

[RDC]

Pick any one of the multiple sites for uploading images, then just post the link.

[khanscott]

My right stick on my Elite is perpetually drifting to the right. I'm using the Game Controller Tester app for W10 and it is saying that there is a drift of 20% to the right and I've swapped out 3 different analog sticks to no avail, only to get this result in perpetuity. Would there be something on the board itself that is causing this? I don't think the POTs themselves are the issue at this point as I use this app to root out bad POTs and I've never seen this before.

[RDC]

The only things on the RSX line are D27, C25 and R57.

D27 is some type of TVS Diode, an issue with it would cause a drift left.
C25 is just for decoupling,and if it were even partially shorted, again it would drift left.
R57 is in series with the Wiper of the POT and would cause no drift either way.

What you most likely have there is a controller that was calibrated from the factory with a crap stick in it, and every one you've put in since has just been a decent one. You'll need to tweak the POT to get it straightened out.

[khanscott]

The only things on the RSX line are D27, C25 and R57.

D27 is some type of TVS Diode, an issue with it would cause a drift left.
C25 is just for decoupling,and if it were even partially shorted, again it would drift left.
R57 is in series with the Wiper of the POT and would cause no drift either way.

What you most likely have there is a controller that was calibrated from the factory with a crap stick in it, and every one you've put in since has just been a decent one. You'll need to tweak the POT to get it straightened out.

I've been trying to adjust that POT, but unless I can figure something out, the through holes are too narrow to get the POT to play nice. The only thing I can think of now is try and get a daughterboard(or w/e the technical term is) off eBay. Do you know if the factory calibration is bound to the controller's daughterboard(?), or motherboard?

Regardless of this thing driving me to early baldness, I thank you for the help!

[RDC]

Not sure what board you're referring to, but you'll have to change the whole MCU board, or at an difficult minimum U1, from another like board to get 'rid' of that issue there.

How are you trying to tweak the POT there? - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44225.msg334779.html#msg334779

[skysheep132]

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if anyone have photos of the button board? Saw all the others have them except this one.

thanks in advance.

[RDC]

Until I get a hold of a board from one to scan here, this is what's on the forums for now on it. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44307.msg330554.html#msg330554

[skysheep132]

Many thanks
could you give me some advice for an elite controller? RT is stuck on and i have looked for track damage but all seems good and also replaced the 304 transitor and nothing has helped?

[RDC]

Welcome.

That 304 part is a Hall Effect sensor.

The Triggers are pulsed, so you really need a scope or Logic Analyzer that can also do Analog to see what is going on there accurately, but they still go Low to activate, so I'd look for a short on the RT line, which is pin 2 of the Sensor.

1 - VDD
2 - GND
3 - OUT

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Could be the Cap in the RC filter is shorted causing it. C36, around TP104, close to the bottom left corner of U1.

You can use a DMM to compare the LT sensor measurements to the RT one and see where things are different. That will also give some more info on where to start looking.

[saulveloz]

Hey, so I've changed the left stick on my Elite controller, no lifted pads, everything good after the repair i tested the deadzone, the click of the stick and it was working fine
Two hours later the controller doesn't turn on, with batteries or with the micro usb cable
So i open it and test for shorts (without pluggin in to the micro usb or with the batteries, nothing, i plug it in with the batteries, shorts everywhere the same with the micro usb port
So i own an 1697 controller to test which board is faulty and for my surprise is the Joystick board, i can't get it running, I've removed C47 and the controller want to turn on, but the light is so dim
Does anyone have an advice for me?
thanks.

[saulveloz]

Hey, so I've changed the left stick on my Elite controller, no lifted pads, everything good after the repair i tested the deadzone, the click of the stick and it was working fine
Two hours later the controller doesn't turn on, with batteries or with the micro usb cable
So i open it and test for shorts (without pluggin in to the micro usb or with the batteries, nothing, i plug it in with the batteries, shorts everywhere the same with the micro usb port
So i own an 1697 controller to test which board is faulty and for my surprise is the Joystick board, i can't get it running, I've removed C47 and the controller want to turn on, but the light is so dim
Does anyone have an advice for me?
thanks.

Update, when the micro usb cable, the computer tries to recognize it, but fails, and when holding on the xbox button there's a little bit of light, with the batteries on U1 and the caps around it are shorted, U3 and the caps aren't, c47 also is shorted when the batteries are on, also c47 it's getting right voltage 3.3v the same as pin 1 on the J6 connector, I'm stuck because i know for a fact that the joytick board it's the faulty one.

[RDC]

You can't measure Resistance with power in the circuit, and you're likely to damage your meter at some point doing that.

The 3.3v on pin 4 of J6 is the one that powers the controller. Check there for a short to ground, though if there is one it could be anywhere on that board. Could also inject 3.3v there and see if anything gets warm/hot fast.

[Adampark]

Hi, i have a 1698 board its not picking the mic up but can hear the the sound perfectly i have tried multiple headphone jacks . Headset tested and works in other controller any ideas anyone ?

[RDC]

Haven't seen that issue before. Compare it to a working board and look for anything that was knocked off. Some of those components are right small and it doesn't take much for one to get broken off and then overlooked. Right around the headset connector as well as ones on the other side of the board. PK6 is the MIC input connection.

[Nick_Sparkle]

Update the controller first and foremost, then go to controller, audio, switch the mic off, move all the audio, gamer chat bars up and down, then put back to the position you want, then switch the mic tab back on. This should work. If not just replace the Audi jack, couple of quid on eBay. Lift the pins on the new Audi jack also prior to installing

[Adampark]

Thanks for the reply, I have tried updating the controller multiple headphone jacks, Turing mic off/on in audio settings  nothing seems to work I’ve had a look around pk6 comparing with a different board and can’t see nothing nocked off driving me crazy haha.

I have another elite controller that had RT constantly pressed.i switched out the 304 and c36 and it fixed the problem  RT was working again, after that I replaced the usb charger port as it was on the way out. Controller turned on then after about 5 mins just went off and wouldn’t power on with battery’s or the usb but the home button was lighting up slightly but wouldn’t power on fully Sometimes you press it and it turns on,connects then goes off Again you will press it again it won’t turn on.  Any ideas see if I can get this one working instead. Any help would be appreciated.

[RDC]

Provided we're talking about 2 complete and separate controllers here, use the Top board from the bad headset controller and bottom board of the repaired RT one. Then you'll have 1 good controller and one really pooched one that you'll be less inclined to mess with and can use for parts boards.

Unless the issue is with the repaired RT bottom board? That wasn't really specified, in which case the aforementioned Top board should be tried on that controller to rule it out and narrow down which board has the issue first.

[Adampark]

It’s both bottom boards that are damaged.  I took the bottom board with the audio fault  and replaced it with the repaired RT board and it powers straight up but still has the Audio issue so cant use that one. Would it have anything too do with the [u10]304 or the c36 that I swapped out that’s literally all I swapped out it was working before. Sometimes it will sync in then 10 seconds later it turns off.

[RDC]

Well that really doesn't make any sense, you say that you replaced the bottom board with the audio issue with the repaired RT board (also a bottom board) and still have the audio issue.

What did you replace U10 and C36 with? Use hot air or a soldering iron?