1708 Controller won’t stay on

[Ginger Ram Rod]

Hi guys. Little help needed. I’ve got a controller here that won’t work properly. I’ve been through the bull:censored: Microsoft suggest and still a no go.

So basically the controller will power on without USB if I press and hold the home button... but if I release it goes off.. changed batteries.. still the same

Then I’ve plugged it in the console via usb and it works for a little while... even did an update it didn’t need (apparently) but as soon as I disconnect the cable it again will go off... it’s only powering on if I hold down the button.. I can tape it down but then I can’t access the home menu..

I have a multimeter and soldering iron if needed..

Any help appreciated.

[RDC]

Check and see that the top board has no scratches or components that have been knocked lose or off. Specifically around R24, R27, R29, Q8, Q9 and D26

[Ginger Ram Rod]

Hi, thanks for the reply.. I’ll have a look in the morning and get back to you. Thanks again

[Ginger Ram Rod]

Hi. Checked all areas. Still no sign of anything missing apart from D8 and D11 that look like they have had solder on the points but nothing there.. I think something had been spilt on ot so maybe blown a cap? But non seem to be shorting to earth both sides..

[Ginger Ram Rod]

Just don’t understand how it works if the home button is held, but as soon as you release it’s off...

[RDC]

D8 and D11 are not populated, supposed to be that way, they are also nowhere near where I mentioned looking, and there are plenty more components around there that are also not installed.

Something with the Power OK / Shutdown signal is messed up.

When you press the Guide button you are 'telling' the controller to turn on. Once it does turn on, it sends a signal to let itself know that it powered on OK and then basically 'latch' itself on, so it does the same as holding the Guide button down but without keeping that button pressed. That signal also turns the controller off when the console tells the controller to power off.

That POK signal comes from the MCU on the main board, thru the connector, pin 9, then thru R7 (0ohm) then D26 to the circuit that keeps the thing on. R7 could be open, or D26, or the traces anywhere along that line, or a few things past that. Worst case the signal is never coming from the MCU to start with, but you'll need to poke around in there with a DMM while powering it up to check, and that's easier said than done without making up a test cable so you can easily get to the bottom of that top board while still having it connected to the bottom one.

[Ginger Ram Rod]

Yea, not a simple fix then? So it’s a chip problem or something? The controller won’t stay on unless I hold the Xbox button. Then as soon as it’s released it just dies.. I thought it’s just loss of power so was thinking it being a power cap..

[RDC]

Could be a simple fix, I've no idea as I don't have the board in hand to test here.

[Ginger Ram Rod]

Are you in the U.K.?

[RDC]

Nope sorry, US.

[Ginger Ram Rod]

Damn!! So any idea on what I should do? Maybe upload a vid showing the problem? How do I test caps and resistance?

[RDC]

I don't need to see the issue, it's already been described and I can duplicate it here, but I can duplicate it several ways, so until that thing is test on more I couldn't say what the issue is exactly. Could even be something new I haven't seen yet that causes the problem too.

Plenty of vids on how to test components, but you're not going to test any Capacitors accurately without removing them and having a meter that's designed for testing them, a typical DMM doesn't have that feature.

I'd start by seeing what is going on with the voltage on pin 9 of the connector, but you'll need to solder a wire on there or make up your own test cables so you can have both boards plugged together and still have access to both sides, because probing that connector with the thing all together is a real PITA and could cause more issues than it already has.