Xbox1 pad questions about analogs fix

[osemoka]

Hi
I have 3 questions.

1. I've replaced ALPS analog in xbox1 pad and there's an issue. Stick is working in every direction but it's too sensitive. 50% of inclination is sensed like 100%Replecment part is ALPS too, but it's different plastic color version. Originally they were green, new part has black plastic colors. Is this the reason of that?

2. One of analogs in xbox1 pad is stuck at - 1,-1 position no matter how i move my analog physically. I replaced it, but the problem still lingers. What can be the reason of that? Surely it's not analog itself. Any ideas?
I tested it at html5 pad tester online

3. I've been desoldering one analog with electric desoldering pump. It was my first time and i wasn't too cautious or aware. I think I ripped off some soldering pads. Are they needed? I also damaged one trace. I marked everything in a photo. Is it fixable? Or too much trouble?

[RDC]

1 - The color of the plastic shouldn't have anything to do with the sensitivity. There are different range POTs, but I haven't gone looking for them in the XB1/DS4 style of stick, so for you to possibly have one seems odd. You'd have to take it off the board and measure it and compare it to an original one to see if there are any differences.


2 - Never used that to test a controller before, but -1, -1 means the stick is press all the way in 2 directions, so I'd look for either a solder bridge, torn up pads or broken traces as something is telling it to go full tilt there.


3 - Yes they are needed, they didn't put them there for show. I'd fix it, but I've done that kind or repair work before. You'll need to put at least 4 or 5 jumper wires in there to reconnect all of the damaged areas to other places.

[osemoka]

1 - The color of the plastic shouldn't have anything to do with the sensitivity. There are different range POTs, but I haven't gone looking for them in the XB1/DS4 style of stick, so for you to possibly have one seems odd. You'd have to take it off the board and measure it and compare it to an original one to see if there are any differences.


2 - Never used that to test a controller before, but -1, -1 means the stick is press all the way in 2 directions, so I'd look for either a solder bridge, torn up pads or broken traces as something is telling it to go full tilt there.


3 - Yes they are needed, they didn't put them there for show. I'd fix it, but I've done that kind or repair work before. You'll need to put at least 4 or 5 jumper wires in there to reconnect all of the damaged areas to other places.

Thanks for reply!!

1.  I would love to test it out. I came up with this idea lately, but I don't know how to messure it ;/. i place digital multimeter "detectors" on various of 14 "legs" of analog and i have no signal. Could you explain it to me how to do it? Also. How do we know which "leg" is responsible for what in analog movement? I guess, they conduct current based on inclination of the stick?

2. Fine tool - as I have no console, this is best way to test pads I found. I know it means that stick is pressed all the way in 2 directions. To be accurate its left upper corner. I can't find any solder bridge, torn up pad or broken trace ;/. Is there a specific place I should look for or it could be anywhere? tp65, and tp 66 look fine - they are responsible for that movement according to pcb scans from this site.

3. I guess I will pass on that one. I'm too inexperienced.

[RDC]

Current based Sticks (Hall Sensors) were used on the SEGA 3D and DC controllers, and Sony toyed with it on some of the DS3 controllers.

The Sticks are nothing more than 2 POTs (Potentiometers) and then a Tact switch for the button. The are just used as voltage dividers, one outside lead of each POT goes to Ground, the other outside lead goes to the Analog Voltage (AN+ or 1.8v for that controller) and depending on where the Stick is moved to, the voltage changes on the Wiper (center lead) of the POT and the MCU in the controller 'reads' that valve to know where the Stick is at.

Looking at the bottom of the board..

+ are the AN+ rail. They will measure 1.8v
G are Ground
O are also ground, solder lugs for the stick
o are also ground for the stick button
x are the stick click button
Y is the Y-axis
X is the X-axis

Depending on which stick you are working on everything is pretty much the same, it's just Left or Right that is different. So LSX would be the Left Stick X-axis while RSX would be the Right Stick X-axis. Same for the button, LSC for Left Stick Click or RSC for Right.

Code: [Select]


  O      O
G         x  o
Y
+         x  o
  O      O
   + X G


On a working controller, with the Stick in the center position, you will measure roughly half the AN+ value on the Wiper. So 1.8v / 2 = 0.9v

If you measure 0v, Ground or 1.8v, AN+ on the Wiper then you either have a short somewhere from the measurement to the Wiper line or an open on the opposite measurement. For example if you measure 1.8v on the Wiper with the Stick in the center position, you could either have a short from the 1.8v line to the Wiper or the Ground side of the POT could be disconnected. Either of those 2 completely different problems will result in the same measurement.

Broken traces right at the solder pad that are so small they are easy to miss are common issues.

[osemoka]

Thanks for a detailed answer!

[MR FIXIT]

Hi i have a few boards like this ,can anybody tell me where alternative solder points are please

[RDC]

https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43981.0.html