Xbox One Elite Controller only turns on with battery+usb and gets hot

[Kalibo]

Hello everyone,

so my brother tried to connect his Elite Series 1 controller with his xim apex and fried some parts using a cheap 3rd party usb cable. It now only turns using both usb cable and batterys but gets extremly hot after a few minutes near the dpad.

I decided to open it up and saw some components on the button/power board near U1 (C6, D23) were damaged (as you can see in the linked picture).

Now my question is if C6 and D23 are really necessary to run the controller or do I 100% have to replace them, if so does anyone know the values of them? Or could it be that U1 is causing the problem and I'm better off just buying a new button/power board?
Although I have to say I would rather try to fix it.

I would appreciate any form of tip or advice.

http://imgur.com/a/b4iPl3b

[RDC]

D23 is nuked, best case it opened up, but it's mot likely shorted.

U1 looks torched in that pic as well. That chip is responsible for knocking down the USB 5v for the controller to use.

C6 is just a decoupling cap, if you suspect it just remove it for now, but it only looks like it caught some mess from when D23 went up in smoke.

Remove D23 and U1, be careful as the pads could possibly come with the component as they can literally will weld themselves together in those cases. The controller should power on and work on batteries after that, but it will not power up or charge the PnC pack over USB.

[Kalibo]

First of all thank you very much for your quick response. Really appreciated.

I removed D23 and U1 and despite trying to be very careful some of the pads came off (on both D23 and U1), as you assumed they were welded together.  I still tried to power it with batteries which didnt work, it just instantly started smoking.

I know it's most likely an unbelievable stupid question but is just because some of the pads came off or could it have any other reason? If it's because of the pads I could probably reestablish the connection with some wire, right?

[RDC]

What started smoking? If you removed those parts then they weren't doing it.

If only the pads came up that's no biggie as they only connect to the components.

If the PCB is burnt really bad, that fiberglass turns into carbon, and while fiberglass doesn't conduct, that carbon will. So it can be a vicious cycle where it burns and starts to conduct, so it burns more, so it conducts more, then burns more and on and on until it's just done itself in.

If the smoking is coming from some other place, you might be better off just going with a new board and just putter around with that one. If it's coming from the same area where U1 and D23 were, clean that up good and remove and charred PCB from there.

[Kalibo]

Tried to remove the charred parts as good as I can and cleaned it up again. Unfortunately the controller still didn't work after that.

I couldn't really tell where the smoke was coming from the first time but since I tried it again now I figured out it's actually coming from the other side of the PCB. And oh boy, that really doesn't look that good.

https://imgur.com/a/fBTwqOk

I ordered a new board now anyway but I'm still curious if mine is fixable. Any suggestions on what to try next?

Thank you again so far for being so kind to help a noob out.

[RDC]

You could still repair it, but unless it's just the challenge you're after and don't care that it will most likely cost far more than what the replacement board did, then I'd just keep it around for solder practice or a spare parts board. You'd need to go over the entire thing and check all the surrounding components to make sure nothing there has gone out of spec as well or you could end up replacing a few things, then firing it back up only to fire it back up.