1708 Xbox one Controller 7 buttons Pressed

[renan.horste]

Hello guys, i have one xbox S controller with A,X,Y LB,RB, START AND SELECT buttons pressed, Wired and Wireless.
i dont identfy any shorts on bPower Board and MCU board.

anyone have a solution? i dont have another MCU or Power Boards.

[renan.horste]

Already updated on Windows 10.

[RDC]

Check the Reset line for U4, it's probably gone open somewhere. Also make sure ADDR has 3.3v on it and the SDA/SCL lines are good.

Schematic of the Button/Power board where U4 is at is in the 1708 thread here - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43981.0.html

[renan.horste]

Thks mate, i will do that, but what and where is ADDR?

[RDC]

Pin 18 of U4.

[renan.horste]

SOLVED!!!
Had a broken trace between C37 and the Point 24 on U4. i just make a jumper and Voila,

thanks mate!!

[RDC]

Welcome.

[Bolt]

Check the Reset line for U4, it's probably gone open somewhere. Also make sure ADDR has 3.3v on it and the SDA/SCL lines are good.

Schematic of the Button/Power board where U4 is at is in the 1708 thread here - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43981.0.html

So sorry for the stupid questions but I am very new to this (I sell PCs for a living).

How do I test the reset SDA/SCL lines? Also the diagram for U4 does not look like the chip. Diagram has 2 sides with pins and actual chip has 4.

I also do not know how to trace any faults. If you have a vid link that can show me how to do this it will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys and sorry again for tee basic questions.

[RDC]

Schematic symbols for more complicated components like an IC don't typically look like the actual component, as it would just look like a hot mess done that way, especially on a much larger IC that has hundreds of connections. The numbers of the pins and what they are is what matters there in the schematic. The chip and PCB has a mark that indicates where pin1 is located. Then on the actual U4 chip you go counter clockwise from pin 1 for 2, 3, 4 etc, etc, so the left side of it has pins 1 thru 6, bottom is 7 thru 12, etc, etc.

As far as checking the lines, you'll just need a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) or Analog as they work every bit as well, and just check on Ohms for continuity of the traces in question.

That Reset line for U4 is known to cause that all buttons pressed issue, so it's the one I would check first to make sure it's good, aka check for continuity from pin 9 or J1 to pin 24 of U4. If it measures close to 0 ohms, then that trace and R4 is good. If it measures anything over hundreds of ohms, then it's gone open somewhere along that trace, and around R4 or C37 is usually where it happens, like it did on board that renan.horste has.

[Bolt]

Thanks RDC for the reply. I have learnt more from your help than the hours i have spent on the internet trying to figure this out.

So i have checked from pin 24 on U4 to pin 9 on J1 and its measuring at just under 2000 Ohms. I understand that there's a trace blown from that point.

How do i proceed in tracing the fault from this point?

I see r4 and c37 on the reverse side of the board but i don't know how to trace this fault.

[RDC]

Just break that trace run down into the sections to find where it's opened up.

Be careful probing onto the small SMT components as they can easily be knocked off the board. Test leads with fine almost needle like tips are better than some blunt larger tip that will slip around and just cause more of a mess.

With the board oriented like you would hold it..

J1 pin 9 to bottom of R4 should be close to 0 ohms, if not there is an open in the trace or a bad via between those spots.

If that measures close to 0 ohms then measure from J1 pin 9 to the top of R4, should again be close to 0 ohms as R4 is just a jumper, no noticeable Resistance. If not then R4 is bad, just jumper it with a wire.

If that measures close to 0 ohms then measure from the top of R4 to U4 pin 24 and again it should be close to 0 ohms, if not the open is between those spots. Usually that short trace that connects R4 and C37 or right around there is where it will be, not always, but more often than not. 

[Bolt]

ok i'm learning as we go

My previous test was incorrect. i have retested and i'm getting close to 0 ohms on all tests below:

Pin 24 on U4 to pin 9 on J1
top of R4 to J1
bottom of r4 to j1
pin 24 on u4 to top of c37

What do i do next?

also DMM beeps on all above tests.

Hope i'm doing this correct so far.

[Bolt]

sorry meant the following :



pin 24 on u4 to top of r4

[RDC]

The DMM shouldn't beep when checking Resistance, unless it's some feature it has, and then you'll need to know at what value it actually does that as it can give a false measurement like using the continuity setting on the DMM. That will squeal at up to a couple of hundred Ohms on some meters. It's nice to not have to look at the meter every time, but it's not as accurate.

If everything tested around 0 ohms then check the ADDR pin of U4 to see if it has 3.3v on it. You can have just the top board alone and plug up the USB cable for that test. Black lead on any ground spot, Red lead on the ADDR pin of U4. Not saying which pin number cause it's in the schematic.

Now if the Rest line is good, and you have 3.3v on ADDR, check to see if the SDA and SCL lines are connected to J1 and make sure they are not shorted to ground or each other.

If all of that checks like it should, then I'd suspect U4 is the issue.

[Bolt]

Hi

So I have retested again and all readings for resistance is 00.8 ohms. I have the DMM set to 200ohms setting. The beeping I was getting was when I had it set for testing for continuity(saw that in a vid and thought it was what I needed to test).

I have also tested ADDR(pin 18) on U4 . I had the black lead connected to a metal frame and the red lead on pin 18 but I'm getting no voltage. Reading 00.1 when set on 20V setting on my DMM. I think this is the problem. But want to test the below to rule this out.

I don't know how to test the SCL and SDA lines. Where do I connect them and am I correct in saying that if I'm testing  resistance then I must not have power connected?

I think it's pin 19 & 20 to pin 7 on J1. Am I correct?

[RDC]

That continuity setting on a DMM is only good for doing a quick check, but when you hear a beep you need to then go back and check the actual Resistance of whatever made the beep, because depending on the meter it will beep on anything it measures from 0 to a hundred ohms or more and sometimes that can make a huge difference.

If there is no voltage on the ADDR pin, check the trace around C41 for corrosion. Also make sure that the 3.3v is even there to start with so you're not going down the wrong rabbit hole. Pins 21 and 23 of U4 should also have 3.3v on them like pin 18 should. If you have no 3.3v on any of those pins you have another issue.

SCL and SDA lines would just be checked for continuity like how the Reset line was checked. On J1 pin 7 is SDA, pin 5 is SCL.

Correct, never have a board powered on or any batteries connected to it while measuring Resistance.

[jesusma]

Hi

So I have retested again and all readings for resistance is 00.8 ohms. I have the DMM set to 200ohms setting. The beeping I was getting was when I had it set for testing for continuity(saw that in a vid and thought it was what I needed to test).

I have also tested ADDR(pin 18) on U4 . I had the black lead connected to a metal frame and the red lead on pin 18 but I'm getting no voltage. Reading 00.1 when set on 20V setting on my DMM. I think this is the problem. But want to test the below to rule this out.

I don't know how to test the SCL and SDA lines. Where do I connect them and am I correct in saying that if I'm testing  resistance then I must not have power connected?

I think it's pin 19 & 20 to pin 7 on J1. Am I correct?

Maybe this will help.

Pin 18 ADDR have 0V it needs 3.3v.
I made a bridge cable from pin 23 to pin 18. I scrappe near some circles that have continuity close (pins are small for me) so here is my result work. My controller wors now. Sorry english not first languaje and lazy to grammar check.