JDM-055 - L3 not working after replacement

[questlove]

Hey guys!

I am new to this board so first of all: hello all, i am questlove, trying to solve my own problems!


now to the problem, which i cant solve by myself:

i have succesfully repaired a few left analog sticks without a big issue. today for the first time i tried to repair the left analog stick (switch out the hole analog stick module) on a JDM-055.


Here is a picture (i know, its not soldering porn and disgusting! haha ):








Everything is working fine. but the L3 button is not working, like for sprinting in COD.

I do test everything out ingame and on https://gamepad-tester.com/, but unfortunately the B10 (L3 on gamepad-tester.com) is not going to 1.00 when clicking :/

Do you maybe know what i did do wrong?

Thanks for the help and best regards in advance!

[zis2104]

clean all the flux and let us see if the welds are alright

[wickated]

are u soldering wih this grandpa`s stuff ?
i see damaged thruhole

[RDC]

Either the L3 trace is broken on the top side of the board under the plating on both of those were torn out when the old stick was removed. Use a piece of 30awg wire and solder a jumper from either of the L3 spots on the bottom of the board to the top side of the board at the top connection of R49.

BOTTOM SIDE


TOP SIDE

[questlove]

Hey,

haha yes, my soldering iron looks similar to what you posted there

@RDC did truely did the job, the L3 button is now functioning again, but now i got another problem. Thanks a lot!

When pressed, it looks like it is pressed for a whole second even though i press and immediately let go again.

As mentioned before my soldering iron is terrible and i might've did something wrong with the jumnper?

[RDC]

If the Resistor there was damaged while soldering to it that could cause that. Just install a 100k 1/8w axial lead Resistor on the bottom of the board from L3 to any Ground spot.

[TuttiFrutti]

The ground might be damaged as well so solder a wire next to the l3 button pin you already soldered to one of the 4 big analog stick solder joins  which are all grounding pins. For the next joystick use this method https://youtu.be/sWY_2r1AHss if you don?t have the proper tools. You basically just cut the joysticks with pliers and you can remove the lead solder easily with a pump.

[TuttiFrutti]

@RDC the mad scientist can you find a way to use Hall effect sensor joysticks  :yess:so people don?t have to go replace their joysticks every couple months. It can be your next project besides the remap chips you make.

[wickated]

hall

izi pizi. not really much work to do.

[vicky123]

Left analog stick going left on its on after replacing a new analog please Help RCD

[RDC]

If it is just barely drifting then it's a calibration issue and you will just have to tweak it out using one of the several methods that have been figured out.

If it's moving full left then some plating has most likely been torn out of one of the holes for the POT.

[vicky123]

yes its moving full left... could i share pictures with you

Left analog stick going left on its on after replacing a new analog i desolder left analog and install new one because L3 button print is broken... Solder a jumper from R49 as u told earlier  to the back point of the board
NOW L3 is working fine but its moving full left on its on
please help

[RDC]

Make sure the X-axis line is not shorted to ground first. If that is not shorted, then jumper the 3.2v spot for the X POT to any of the other 3.2v spots under the stick and then see how it acts.

V = 3.2v
X = X-axis
Y = Y-axis
G = Ground
3 = Stick button
O = Mounting lug (also ground)

Code: [Select]


       V X G
     O      O
V  3            G
                Y
V  3            V
     O      O


[vicky123]

thank you so much RDC my controller is working perfectly fine...

thank you bro

[RDC]

Welcome.

[szczuru]

Is there any alternative point to solder to R49?
I have the same issue with L3, and soldering to top of R49 doesn't work (it worked for the first time but loose wire felt off and now it doesn't work). So 100k resistor soldered between pointed L3 point at bottom side and ground point (eg one of 4 big points on analog itself) will fix it?

Sorry for my bad english.

Posted photo of it. I know it looks terrible but:

3.2v for analog is ok (top left pin). Analog works
100k resistor is soldered between L3 gnd and x axis gnd (top right)
Trace between 3,2 of L3 both pins was damaged and i fix it with thin wire (it isn't shorted to gnd).

Pad works very well but L3 still doesn't work.

[RDC]

You are going to need to solder to a via to repair that now. Take your time and carefully scrape away the solder mask to expose the copper, then solder a thin wire from the via to the L3 button.



Leave the Resistor where it is, just make sure that it does not interfere with the case when putting the controller back together.

[szczuru]

Thanks i'll try. But need i to solder to that via or can i solder to trace which is "with that via" (seems to be easier).

[RDC]

You can solder the trace if you prefer.

[szczuru]

@RDC, thanks L3 in this gamepad works But it was really difficult to solder to this via or trace next to it. I have another JDM-055 with the same issue so is there any alternative point to solder instead of that via?

[RDC]

Welcome. You can follow that trace and solder to another via o it if you prefer, but that's just more of the same, so the answer to that is nope.

[vicky123]

jdm 005 x is not working... i changed conductive film, button, rubber button but not working

[vicky123]

when i pressed left or right arrow button X working only one time on its own and then dead