JDM-030 - L3 button stays pressed

[Eren_Ackerman]

Good morning! Everything will be OK today.

I have a JDM-030 that keeps showing the L3 button being pressed in gamepad-tester.com

When I touch the area where the button is, the button flickers very rapidly alternating from pressed to non pressed. When I inspected the board I noticed that this component here was missing so I took the same one from a donor board, but the problem stays the same. I tried measuring the component but it's extremely tiny and couldn't get a reading whatsoever.

The question is, am I on a good track? And, if so, what value should I replace this (resistor?) with? Thanks in advance

I took a picture

[Eren_Ackerman]

So I decided to use this post to document my progress.

I got 3 other JDM-030 boards to test and the reading I get is almost always 100kohms with a multimeter that selects its scale with an "auto" function. But when I test the controller from this post I get nothing. I think that, apparently, the resistor (or, at least, what I think is a resistor; I don't know the difference with filters yet) that I replaced the missing component with was probably faulty. I'll try putting another one from a kit I bought from Aliexpress. The only thing that worries me a bit is that I don't know if there are other parallel components that might be weighing in the measurement because I tested the other boards directly with the components installed where they are in the boards.

When I'm done, I'll obviously test to check if I get the same reading as the others. I think I'm getting the hang of this.



Also I have a JDM-055 that always thinks it's charging. I used a 3.7v mini charger board (as suggested by user from here) to charge its battery and use it for myself. The s2pg001a doesn't overheat when the battery is plugged in, but it does when I plug in the USB cable through its normal input lines. Also, while I removed some components to prevent the leds from turning on (and therefore draining the battery), the battery still drains completely overnight probably because some other component might be consuming much more than it should. So I'll try to find the component when I'm done with the JDM-030.

[RDC]

That Resistor is a 100k Pull-Down. With it missing the L3 line is floating and it will act all goofy like that. You can just toss any 100k on there from the L3 line to ground, like a 1/8W axial lead, and you should be good to go.

[Eren_Ackerman]

Now I feel silliest. Today I had time to get at it again after some time, and while I was trying to think about it I realized it's just a simple click button. In other words, all controller boards have the exact same button and thus the exact same valued resistor. Only some others are physically bigger.

I was overthinking it because maybe different CPUs could've required different values and all that. I simply took a resistor from a donor board, a JDM-055, because the kit I bought from Aliexpress had only one physical size for all and they were too big. The one from the JDM-055 was also bigger, but I grinded the ground point a little bit and made some space for the bigger resistor to connect to both points.

Thanks for the reply, RDC.

I think I also understood today that, unlike capacitors, resistors apparently can be read on-board and get a good reading. I need a fume extractor. I'll be buying one soon.