Controller XBSX 1914 not work with battery

[iMeers]

Hello community, I have a 1914 controller that only works with cable, when trying to use the batteries it only turns on for about 5s maximum 10s and turns off.

The board shows no signs of having a burned component.

I have measured U5 and TP35 marks 3.3v as well as tp36 3.6v which I suppose works well, so I am lost. I would greatly appreciate your help.

[RDC]

Does it stay on if you keep the Guide button pressed down?

[iMeers]

Does it stay on if you keep the Guide button pressed down?

It stays on but blinking, like it's out of sync. Is it a software or bluetooth issue?

By the way thanks for the answer master.

[RDC]

If there is any kind of update for the controller that should be done first. The XB1 should display that if it's connected with a USB cable.

Kind of sounds like there is some issue around Q8/Q9, which are responsible for turning the controller on and then keeping it on until it needs to turn itself off, but I haven't seen that on the 1914 before. Pressing Guide turns on Q8, which turns on Q9, then the controller keeps Q9 on via J3p9. Plugging it up with the USB cable kind of 'skips' all of that mess and it just stays on all the time. Could also be some other issue I've not seen before.

[iMeers]

If there is any kind of update for the controller that should be done first. The XB1 should display that if it's connected with a USB cable.

Kind of sounds like there is some issue around Q8/Q9, which are responsible for turning the controller on and then keeping it on until it needs to turn itself off, but I haven't seen that on the 1914 before. Pressing Guide turns on Q8, which turns on Q9, then the controller keeps Q9 on via J3p9. Plugging it up with the USB cable kind of 'skips' all of that mess and it just stays on all the time. Could also be some other issue I've not seen before.

I have installed the update to the control but now it turns on and off after 2 seconds.

Do you know the value of the resistor that is circled in red, I have watched a video with a very similar problem and they change that resistor.



Or could you tell me what I should measure in Q8 and Q9?

Thanks

[RDC]

R7 is 0 ohms, it's just a jumper.

[iMeers]

R7 is 0 ohms, it's just a jumper.

Yes, that's what I just measured but I wanted to ask.

Any clue where I should start measuring in Q8/Q9?

Sorry for my English I'm using a translator

[RDC]

Q8 is probably OK if the thing is trying to turn on. Q9p1 will have around 2.8v on it when the controller is working correctly from battery power, Q9p2 and Q9p3 will measure 0v as it is turning on ground.

Make sure the trace is good from J3p9 to R7, then R7 to D26, then D26 to Q9p1.

Most of the schematic for that board can be fond here - https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44711.0.html

[iMeers]

Q8 is probably OK if the thing is trying to turn on. Q9p1 will have around 2.8v on it when the controller is working correctly from battery power, Q9p2 and Q9p3 will measure 0v as it is turning on ground.

Make sure the trace is good from J3p9 to R7, then R7 to D26, then D26 to Q9p1.

Most of the schematic for that board can be fond here - https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44711.0.html

Sorry for the delay, but I have an update.

I checked the lines that you mention and they are all continuous correctly, I checked D26 in diode mode and on one side it had readings of 0.5v on one side and 2.3v on the other, I chose to raise it to see if that was the problem and everything is fine, the diode marked the correct one, so I don't know what to do I suspect Q9 I wanted to replace it, but do you know what kind of boards have that voltage regulator, I have some control pcbs that are no longer used, but I don't see them, or do you know how I can look for it on the web because I put WJ3 smd regulator and I can't find something.

Anything you recommend me to do before replacing Q9?

[RDC]

Q9 is not a Regulator, it's an N channel FET.