Author Topic: Xbox Elite Series 2 MCU board Dead Repair  (Read 490 times)

Offline Ahad2k15

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Xbox Elite Series 2 MCU board Dead Repair
« on: August 18, 2023, 03:17:31 AM »
Greetings,I am hoping someone can help me regarding this.
I am trying to repair a Xbox Elite series 2 MCU/Power Board.Initially It had an issue with The analogy and triggers stuck and not responding (Analog stuck in opposite directions and Triggers pressed).I suspected an issue with the Arm Chip as it was also getting slightly warm so I Reflowed the chip but that ended in the board now being completely dead.So now I want know if my issue is certainly the ARM Chip ,what input voltages should I check and if the ARM chip from the Xbox one S MCU board is compatible.I want to be sure if they are compatible so I can proceed with changing the chip

https://ibb.co/zrMpmj6
https://ibb.co/0mwZJDS

Offline RDC

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Re: Xbox Elite Series 2 MCU board Dead Repair
« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2023, 01:25:25 PM »
Technically the same chip, but much different firmware. I have not traced out all of the 1797, the 1708 is here https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43981.0.html  No idea if that chip is even pin for pin connected up the same way, so I wouldn't swap those around until that was checked first, and even then it still may not work correctly with the unused pins left floating.

Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline Ahad2k15

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Re: Xbox Elite Series 2 MCU board Dead Repair
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2023, 01:17:29 AM »
Thanks for the reply,
I couldn't find any datasheet on either of those 2 chips.Is there any input voltages for the chip I should check or do you think the  chip is just dead now(I didn't even put that much heat :cry2: .If the chip is bad am gonna go ahead and swap the chips I really want to get the board working as its still an expensive controller.

Offline RDC

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Re: Xbox Elite Series 2 MCU board Dead Repair
« Reply #3 on: August 24, 2023, 04:11:29 PM »
You're not understanding the deal there. The chips are the same part number, but that is where the similarities end. They have different firmware (code) on them, and that is what determines how most of the pins on them will act and what they can do. It's not as simple as just matching up the part number there. That's like replacing your red Ferrari with a red VW Beetle, and there are even more similarities between those, they're both red, 4 wheels, 2 doors and engine in the back, but would you expect that to drive the same way?

Sony used the same chip in the DS5 controller in the 3 current versions, but you can not just straight swap them between those board revisions as they are connected differently to things on the board, thus also each have their own version of firmware.

The voltages and such are what should have been looked at first before reflowing the MCU. The 3.3v is really about all there is.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

 

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