Acidmods
Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) => PS4 => PS4 Controllers/PS4 Rapid Fire Controllers => Topic started by: RDC on November 16, 2020, 07:40:53 AM
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DualSense 5, BDM-010, 6-layer PCB, yep. So far the only real hardware differences among these has been the color of the FPC (Blue or Green) and there are a couple of different TouchPads, but I haven't looked into the other version yet.
BDM-010 MOTHERBOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BDM-010/BDM-010_TOP.jpg)
BDM-010 MOTHERBOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BDM-010/BDM-010_BOTTOM.jpg)
NOTE: Most all buttons now are common ground, with the exception of L2 and R2 which are a more standard type voltage divider setup now, and then L3 and R3 which are active Hi buttons and if duplicating them is desired then wire directly up to the solder joints for them.
VIAS FOR BUTTONS
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BDM-010/BDM-010_BUTTONS.jpg)
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BDM-010/BDM-010_TP_BTN.jpg)
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BDM-010/BDM-010_CREATE.jpg)
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BDM-010/BDM-010_OPTION.jpg)
The L1/L2 and R1/R2 Trigger assemblies are pretty much identical, from a hardware standpoint, so the TP spots on them are the same.
NOTE: If duplicating the L2/R2 consider doing that thru a 1k Resistor versus driving the L2/R2 line directly to ground.
TRIGGER ASSEMBLY FFC CONNECTOR PINOUTS - CAUTION: These are the BDM-010 pinouts and the Left side and the Right side connectors are placed 180 from each other, thus their pinouts are reversed. Thank Sony for it, as it's not the first, nor I'm sure last, time they've done this.
LEFT SIDE FFC PINOUT
1 - GND
2 - M+/-
3 - M-/+
4 - GND
5 - 1.8vE
6 - WP2
7 - SCL2
8 - SDA2
9 - L1
10 - GND
11 - 1.8v
12 - GND
13 - L2
14 - GND
15 - L2 Feedback
16 - 1.8v
RIGHT SIDE FFC PINOUT
1 - 1.8v
2 - R2 Feedback
3 - GND
4 - R2
5 - GND
6 - 1.8v
7 - GND
8 - R1
9 - SDA1
10 - SCL1
11 - WP1
12 - 1.8vE
13 - GND
14 - M-/+
15 - M+/-
16 - GND
THINGS TO NOTE:
The Trigger assemblies have EEPROMS on them. Why? I have no clue. Might just be to identify them to the motherboard or have some kind of calibration data on them for the feedback feature or might have Hoffa's resting place stored in hex backwards, so you've been warned that removing the boards may or may not cause some kind of unwanted side effects. I have no PS5 here to play around on seeing what those things do if they are swapped, messed with or missing. My current opinion would be to leave them installed, as they take up jack for room once they are removed from the assembly and you then have nice TP spots to solder things to versus tiny harder spots on the motherboard and who knows what kinds of possible issues removing them might cause.
The SDA, SCL and WP lines are for those EEPROM and should be left alone.
The L1 and R1 are active Lo buttons.
The L2 and R2 are Analog, but still technically active Lo and if the Trigger assembly is removed, a Pull-Up Resistor needs to be installed from L2/R2 to 1.8v, then your new button should go from L2/R2 to Ground thru a 1k Resistor.
The L2/R2 Feedback lines are how the controller knows what position the Force Feedback motor is at. This probably should have something done with it so those lines are not floating, but again, no PS5 here so no idea what the best course of action to take on those currently is, so again, safer to leave the boards intact for now.
BWL-010, TRIGGER ASSEMBLY TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BWL-010/BWL-010_SIDE_A.jpg)
BWL-010, TRIGGER ASSEMBLY BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BWL-010/BWL-010_SIDE_B.jpg)
BWL-010 FFC PINOUT - CAUTION: This is the pinout of the FFC connector on the BWL-010 board above, it is NOT the pinout of the FFC connector on the motherboard. See above for those.
1 - 1.8v
2 - L2/R2 Feedback
3 - GND
4 - L2/R2
5 - GND
6 - 1.8v
7 - GND
8 - L1/R1
9 - SDA1
10 - SCL1
11 - WP1
12 - 1.8vE
13 - GND
14 - M-
15 - M+
16 - GND
TOUCHPAD, LT-01 TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/LT-01/LT-01%20TOP.jpg)
TOUCHPAD, LT-01 BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/LT-01/LT-01%20BOTTOM.jpg)
The second revision of the DS5. Nothing really special to note just yet, as I've only started looking into this one. It's a 4 layer now instead of 6. The Vias for all of the main face buttons, PS, X, O, /\, [ ], DR, DU, DL, DD are in the same location and order as the BDM-010.
BDM-020 MOTHERBOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BDM-020/BDM-020_TOP.jpg)
BDM-020 MOTHERBOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BDM-020/BDM-020_BOTTOM.jpg)
The L1/L2 and R1/R2 Trigger assemblies are pretty much identical, from a hardware standpoint, but the TP spots have been moved around on this version.
NOTE: If duplicating the L2/R2 consider doing that thru a 1k Resistor versus driving the L2/R2 line directly to ground.
BWL-020, TRIGGER ASSEMBLY TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BWL-020/BWL-020_SIDE_A.jpg)
BWL-020, TRIGGER ASSEMBLY BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BWL-020/BWL-020_SIDE_B.jpg)
Third revision of the DS5. Few changes this time around, more on all that later.
BDM-030 MOTHERBOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BDM-030/BDM-030_TOP.jpg)
BDM-030 MOTHERBOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BDM-030/BDM-030_BOTTOM.jpg)
The Trigger assemblies are not as complex anymore. The PCB just has the Feedback POT on it, with the motor being wired directly to the motherboard like the Rumble motors are.
The FPC is also changed and now has the L1, L2, R1 and R2 buttons incorporated into it, bringing it back inline with how the DS4, DS3 and even the DS2 were made.
BDM-030 FPC TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BDM-030/BDM-030_FPC.jpg)
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I wouldnt say consider duplicating the R2 L2 with a 1k resistor, but to actually do it. Since its at 4.9k when not pressed vs 1.9k when fully pressed so to always make it do 100% press for FPS youd need it to complete at 1.9k
The VR carbon strips are modular and not on the trigger board. So it would be better to add your own resistor since were not sandwiching an SFX for the triggers.
Btw, You didnt watermark your scans RDC
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Didn't say with, said thru.
L2 - 1k - Tact - GND, or L2 - Tact - 1k - GND
The L2/R2 is also closer to ~5.6k not pulled, being the PU is around 7.8k and the voltage at the divider is ~0.75v not pulled, then ~0.35v for a full pull, so a 1k will get you ~0.2v when the new Tact is pressed, shade more than a full pull.
If the FPC is going to be removed, then an 8k Resistor needs to be installed from the L2/R2 spot to either of the 1.8v spots, and a 5.6k from the L2/R2 to GND so the divider stays intact, or a 10k/7.5k setup, and a 1k should still be used on the new Tact.
Yeah, I know who made them though. ;)
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Yep, Im kinda glad they went with what they did because it also means that FPC can be replaced with your own that has the buttons and resistors built in. Theoretically you could just swap one in. Lets face it the adaptive triggers are a gimmick even Microsoft didnt bother to update, cross compatibility aside a rumble under there was just fine :tup:
The Dualsense is largely a Microsoft patent workaround imo (including anti friction rings) lol
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:eyebrow: just put of curiosity could we also get scans of the button ribbons? It's so nice having scans of the PCBs it'd be nice to have high quality scans of the ribbons as well
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Actually it would be much more useful to have a pinout of the trigger module. I'm thinking if mod kits were going to be made then this would be the most useful place to tap into the triggers. An arrangement similar to the JDM-030 could be made, with two branches that go to each trigger and replace their cables, a central double sided connection for the offset connector they use for the face buttons, and the mod chip somewhere in the middle (or off to the side of the trigger modules, there is TONNES of room on the outside)
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A complicated and expensive FPC design or solder 4 wires to easy TP spots on the modules for the L1, L2, R1 and R2 connections. Tough call.
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Ok fair enough. I was thinking more in terms of making plug and play kits for people without soldering experience.
I wonder if at some point they might remove the test points? God knows they did enough revisions of the ds4 it makes me wonder what they'll change in future ds5 revisions.
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Question, on the scan of the touchpad underside, there are rectangles along the bottom edge. What are those? What are they for? If they're LED's, I haven't seen any software that uses them yet.
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Cool it with the double posts guy, theres an edit button for a reason, sometimes I feel like you just say things to boost your posting score and nothing more.
Theyre player indicator lights just like on PS4
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WAit the ps4 didn't have player indicator lights? I thought it used the lightbar for that. Or have I been missing something the whole time?
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The DS4 only has the light bar with a single RGB LED.
The DS5 has a single RGB LED on the motherboard for creating the light around the Touchpad. Then there are 5 White LEDs in the Touchpad that could be used for any number of things that light up the 'bar' between the Touchpad and the Sticks. Then the Mic Mute button has it's own LED for lighting that thing up when it's muted or for anything else they would want to flash or pulse it for.
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Actually I was wondering about the RGB LED on the dualsense. There appear to be three.... I assume mosfets? on the lines to the RGB led. I want have one of these and want to wire them to match the RGB led
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001564054055.html
I'm wondering if i just wire it to the same line if it will damage the controller, or if it will just make all led's run dimmer. If I can't directly wire the extra led's to it, how could I drive it from the same lines that the stock LED uses?
Also the little controller board (that I sadly can't take a picture of because my phone camera died) has what appears to be three mosfets on it, and I'm wondering if i could just wire the pre-mosfet data lines from the controller R-G-B to the pre-mosfet positions on the driver board (and remove the little programmed chip from it.)
At the very least, do you know what component those mosfets are? That would be a starting point to finding out how they're driven / what they can do.
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The DS5 has a dedicated 4.15v rail that powers all of the LEDs in it, though I'm not sure I go tossing 72 more LEDs on that rail as who knows what it's designed to actually source.
Those 3 components on the DS5 around the RGB are N channel FETs, they turn the Ground side of each of the the R, G, or B on/off, same as how the control board for that pile of LEDs works.
Letting that smaller LED control board and it's FETs or Transistors be the 'go between' and have it wired to straight battery power would be the way to drive those, as they already have it setup that way. Then you'll just be using the DS5 RGB control signals to turn on those LED control board FETs also.
Pin 1 of each of those FETs on the DS5 are the control lines.
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You are like the holy grail of useful information. Any idea which one of the fets are R/G/B? Already got the mystery chip off the led driver board and wires soldered to it.
Edit: The bottom / left one is Red, trying to figure out which one is green or blue.
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The one by itself is for Red. The other two, the top one is for Blue, bottom one, probably for Green.
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I gave it a try, and thr pins of the LED from left to right are +, G, B, R. I found this out by getting red and blue backwards
I burned out some of the LED's on the button ribbon, so I'm thinking I should replace some resistors to lower the current a bit. The stock driver board has 2.2K resistors before the mosfets, and 20 ohm resistors for red / green and 10 ohm for blue between the mosfets and the led string. IS it more proper to replace the resistors before or after the mosfets? If I increase them should I keep the difference the same (ex change 20 / 10 ohm for 50 / 40 ohm) or should I maintain the ratio? (ex 50 / 25 ohm)
Sorry for all the questions. I link to tinker and I have some idea what i'm doing but I'm no electrical engineer.
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The 2.2k before the FETs are likely going to the Gates of them, changing them will do nothing, but they need to be there to keep from burning the FETs up. The ones after the FETs will be the ones that need changed to limit the current to the LEDs. Without having a clue what the LED voltage drop is or how many you're dealing with, I'd just toss a POT in there and adjust it until it's where you want, then remove it and measure the value and the closest higher value Resistor is what you'd want.
Also need to be aware that thing is designed to be connected to the battery directly, and there is jack all for regulation there, so that voltage will be 4.2v max while it's charging and should be setup to be able to handle that. Then it's going to drop over time to ~3v at the lowest, so the LEDs will not be driven with a constant voltage.
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OH Ok, that makes a lot of sense. I have little constant current regulator modules that are designed to power LED's from a liion battery. I could put one of those in series, turn it down a bit, and then that should make the brightness output of the secondary LED's more consistent as the battery drains right? It's one of these
http://www.canton-electronics.com/power-converter-modules-c-4/driver-power-c-4_169/dc-36v-00315a-led-driver-constant-current-adjustable-module-pwm-control-board-for-arduino-uno-mega2560-breadboard-pic-arm-p-1058.html
Another thought, are there any power rails on the controller i could tap into that are more appropriate to wire the led's into rather than directly to the battery?
Edit: I put the little regulator module in line with the power for the led driver mosfet board, and it worked as expected. I cam dim the LED's more :D It also has a chip enable line, so I can even use it as a switch. I'll probably tie it to one fo the 3v3 rails so it theoretically doesn't use any power when the controller is off.
Edit2: Ok so I got to the point where the led was flickering different colors, so I think I might have a partial short or something. Then my controller shut off. I think I'll wait for someone else to figure this out before I accidently my controller, or wait for me to get a controller that has a broken shell so I don't care if I accidently it permenantly..
Now I'm looking for just a better driver chip. The modules that come with these led's are kinda dumb. I know you can get 5v RGB LED drivers ment for led strips, that support a range of patterns and whatnaught. I'm trying to find something similar for 3v leds.
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Sorry for the double post but this post is completely irrelevant to the previous 5 and instead a direct reply to the one quoted.
Didn't say with, said thru.
L2 - 1k - Tact - GND, or L2 - Tact - 1k - GND
The L2/R2 is also closer to ~5.6k not pulled, being the PU is around 7.8k and the voltage at the divider is ~0.75v not pulled, then ~0.35v for a full pull, so a 1k will get you ~0.2v when the new Tact is pressed, shade more than a full pull.
If the FPC is going to be removed, then an 8k Resistor needs to be installed from the L2/R2 spot to either of the 1.8v spots, and a 5.6k from the L2/R2 to GND so the divider stays intact, or a 10k/7.5k setup, and a 1k should still be used on the new Tact.
Yeah, I know who made them though. ;)
I recently discovered that the pot for the adaptive triggers runs through the button ribbon, so if you replace / augment the button ribbon the person MUST consider how that affects the resistance between the pot and... ground? +? I'm not engineer. I took it apart previously and despite writing directions for other people how to put it back together correctly aligned one of the gears wrong. While working on it i was testing it and it was centering at the wrong position - weird - so I plugged back in the button ribbon and everything started working correctly. This means that if somehow the button ribbon gets damaged it could also mess up the adaptive triggers.
Oh and as for how i tested the triggers, DS4Windows recently added some options for them in an update, like simulated hair triggers and such.
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The Feedback POT for the Adaptive Triggers goes to TP5, then to the connector that goes to the motherboard, so the only ribbon that it runs thru is the FPC cable that connects the Trigger Assembly to the motherboard.
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Ok interesting. Using ds4windows "ridgid" trigger setting, i could unplug and plug in the trigger button ribbon (that goes under the trigger / shoulder buttons) and upon unplugging it, the force feedback plunger position would change. upon plugging it back in, it would return to the expected position. Any idea what causes this?
On the LED front, I ordered one of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32978033331.htm
My thinking is even if it says the lowest is 5v, it might just work on 3v. After receiving it I'm happy to say it does! After removing the connector and adding 20ohm resistors on the green blue and 10ohm resistors on the red line, it works a treat. Much nicer to work with than the stock module and has a remote. The last thing to consider is turning it on and off - it doesn't have an enable pin as far as I can find. Either I'm looking at getting a second module that has some kind fo enable pin, rigging up a mosfet or something to turn it on and off (I have a bunch of random n channel mosfets I ordered forever ago, not sure how to use them. YOLO)
Are there any power rail test points I can tap into to use as an enable? Something that's only on when the controller turns on?
EDIT: I metered my entire led circuit i plan to drive, controller included, and it peaked to about 160ma. Is there any 3.3-4.2v rail that is only powered when the controller is on, that would be safe to just wire the thing in directly? OR is wiring it to the battery still recommended?
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Unplugging the small FPC wrecks the voltage divider that makes up the L2/R2 since they are Analog. I can only guess they do not have direct access to the Feedback signal and are just using the L2/R2 position for now to show where that is. Wire up a Tact straight across the L2 or R2 contacts, press it, and see if the Feedback signal goes to 100%. If it does, then that's not the actual Feedback signal as the Tact will not move that Feedback POT at all.
The remote has on/off buttons. Use the AN+ of the Sticks for an Enable signal. It's a switched 1.8v source that will be good enough for turning on/off an N channel FET.
I have no way of knowing what a safe current to pull from any of the spots in there would be as I didn't design it or have access to the DataSheet for the PMIC in there.
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Through some experimenting I can tell it's definitely using the pot position to close the loop for the stepper position. I think now that it was the software side doing it - it was scaling the FFB position to how hard the trigger was pressed. That would explain the lack of direct electrical connection affecting the position and why the position changes when you unplug the cable - because the position of the trigger does.
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Kind of tangentially related. what model of sticks do the new dualsense controllers use? Are they still 10K pots on the analog sticks or has that changed?
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all same
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Oh ok, I also heard somewhere there was a new revision of ps5 controller labeled BDM-020. Anything notably different on the new version?
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Haven't had one to really dig into yet, but they put the MCU on the other side of the board.
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Hello Guys,
i'm sitting in a wheelchair and want to build me a adaptive controller, like the XBOX adaptive controller.
But i can't find any informations about the solder points for the create and options buttons on the pcb.
Do you know where are these solder points? Are there also solder points for the touchpad button
on the main pcb. I hope you can help me. :#1:
Best regards
synrg
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There aren't any nice easy to hit solder points for the Create and Option buttons, unless you were to remove them, then you could use the existing solder pads for the buttons. The TP button is on the TP board, and there is a spot to solder to for it, if it's take apart first. The first post has been update with the vias for all of those buttons. Do take care when soldering to those vias, as you pretty much get just one shot at them before it becomes much more difficult to get to the next usable spots.
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Really thank you! This helps me a lot
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Hey. Do you happen to have the Mic Mute button mapped out? I'd love to use that thing for a project. Thanks!
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Just use the little square pad right at the Mic Mute button, it's easier than using the via for it. The Create and Option buttons are the same way and have that square pad at their buttons also, I just marked the via for them as it's close to them, the via for the MM button isn't near it.
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Just use the little square pad right at the Mic Mute button, it's easier than using the via for it. The Create and Option buttons are the same way and have that square pad at their buttons also, I just marked the via for them as it's close to them, the via for the MM button isn't near it.
If you could forgive my ignorance, do you mean this one here?
This is extremely helpful, thank you.
(https://i.imgur.com/qNxNpMW.png)
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Yup, that's it. It's an active Lo button and the DS5 logic is 1.8v, so if you're interfacing it with some chip it's best if it runs at that voltage.
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Yup, that's it. It's an active Lo button and the DS5 logic is 1.8v, so if you're interfacing it with some chip it's best if it runs at that voltage.
No worries. I'm actually modifying an extremerate board, so it should just work. Thanks for the help!
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Hi, while replacing the stick in my controller I accidentally took out a capacitor that connects the rumble trace with ground. I was wondering if its necessary and what value does it have. Thanks in advance.(https://ibb.co/09vm06q)
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Yup, that's it. It's an active Lo button and the DS5 logic is 1.8v, so if you're interfacing it with some chip it's best if it runs at that voltage.
I'm waiting for your review on the bdm-030 board. Approximately when to expect?
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Approximately some time after I have one here to look at.
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Can anybody help with usb data-lines resistanses?
Now I have 11.7K and 1.6M there (to GND)
Gamepad works,but doesn't recognised by usb-cable in Windows (unrecognised device). Are datalines of main CPU dead?
(https://i.imgur.com/J7Qrpg2.jpg)
I've replaced Dialog DA9087 chip with zero result.
Gamepad consumes current 6mA then 110mA and when goes to zero consumption
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The DA9087 does nothing with the USB data lines, it does the Power Management and Trigger motors.
Those lines measure around 1.4M to ground here, so that 1.6M seems fine, but that 11.7k is no good at all. Make sure the USB connector isn't full of something conductive, but aside from that about the only thing left is the MCU.
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The DA9087 does nothing with the USB data lines, it does the Power Management and Trigger motors.
Those lines measure around 1.4M to ground here, so that 1.6M seems fine, but that 11.7k is no good at all. Make sure the USB connector isn't full of something conductive, but aside from that about the only thing left is the MCU.
Thanks for your fast reply. I removed one zero-resistor (where 11.7k) and measured resitance to CPU directly - reuslt the same :(
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So I've been looking at the photos posted of the PCBs and Vias and I think I have a rudimentary understanding of how the basic solder points work for this but I wanted to ask a few questions. I'm totally new to working on a padhack, pretty much my only experience is soldering a new pin connector on my ps2 controllers PCB to replace the split wire on the port of the controller. My main experience with soldering is in Gameboy mods, and while I'm fairly good I wouldn't put my knowledge as anything spectacular.
After Evo Japan this year I want to make a new fight stick, and I want to use the dualsense PCB to do it. So my question for you, is when looking at/working on a PCB, how do I identify the points in which I am able to solder a ground wire to? How many can be daisy chained to a single ground point? And do I need to worry about getting resistors or anything for this?
If I'm asking in the wrong place, my sincerest apologies. I figured I had time before I start this that I can start studying what I need to know and learn before I tackle it in the spring. Thanks for any help that can be provided!
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Ground is, well ground. If it's a board that you have never worked on, start with some part of it that you know has to have a standard ground connection, like the battery or the USBC connector on there. The entire shield of that thing is Ground, so then you can poke around with a meter from there measuring continuity to many other spots and find other grounds. TIP: Use Ohms to double check if you use the continuity to see what goes where, as meters will still beep thru a low resistance value and that's not the same thing as a direct connection. There are ground spots all over the board, as that's usually what most of the copper on there is for, from where the sticks mount to just about half of every capacitor on there is connected to ground.
You can daisy chain pretty much all of your buttons off of a single ground, minus the L3 and R3 buttons as those are active Hi. They go to 1.8v when pressed, so if you are wanting to duplicate those buttons you will need a minimum of 3 wires for those 2 buttons, one that is 1.8v that will be the common for both the new L3 and R3 then one wire each for the actual L3 and R3 or just do 4 wires with 2 going to each.
The L2 and R2 are Analog, but most people just make that Digital so when the new button is pressed that ends up being the same as a full L2/R2 pull. Those are also technically an active Lo like most of the other buttons are, so all you need to do is just ground the L2/R2 line to make those work. You can put a 100ohm or so Resistor on each of those lines if you wish, but it's not required. If you go stripping the controller down as much as possible, then for sure you'll start having to put this and that in place to make up for the missing things, but if you keep as much of it as possible intact and are just wiring up new buttons to it then things usually end up easier.
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Okay, so I generally understand most of what your are saying. I can definitely get comfortable with the board and test areas for common ground, thank for explaining it I think I can confidently attempt to look for it on the board at this stage.
I'm curious about what you mentioned for L3 and RE. You said I would need a wire that is 1.8v that will be the common. I'm not quite sure what this means. May I ask you to elaborate a little? I assume because the voltage changes when pressed I need to set up a wire that helps with this, but I don't quite know what that would entail. Thanks for your time!
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Most controllers have buttons that are active Lo, that is one side of the button contact is ground, so when the button is pressed the button line (the other contact) then goes Lo. The L3 and R3 of this controller are the opposite of that, they are active Hi, they go up to 1.8v when they are pressed. The easiest thing you can do is to just solder 2 wires for each L3 and R3 to the new L3 and R3 buttons.
If you look at the bottom of the board for the BDM-010 in the first post, there are 4 solder joints for the L3 button. The top 2 are soldered to a large trace that also goes to the LSY POT, that's the 1.8v in there for L3, as well as other things in there, then the 2 other solder joints are the L3 button line. Pick 1 top and 1 bottom joint and those 2 connections will go to your new L3 button. Then just do the same on the R3.
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Excellent, makes perfect sense. Thank you so much for explaining. I'm going to start hunting through listings for controllers with the older boards and hopefully get to testing in the next month!
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BDM 030 VIAS
(https://i.imgur.com/qdw0ofR.png)
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Hello,
Is it possible to make a Dual Sense hackpad without having to connect the BWL-0xx board, If yes, can you share get the L1/L2/R1/R2 vias on the motherboard and the pinout from the ffc connectors with the "10k/7.5k setup" to make it work ?
I want it to be cleaner as possible. I understood the need of the 1k resistor to replace the neutral position of each potentiometer, and if they are active low, it's perfect !
Thank you.
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The first post has been updated with some information on that.
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Thank you for the update, i will keep it and add the 1k resistor for each L and R input then :)
I am goind to try without it just to check if the controller is still recognized by the console or my computer.
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(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2022/12/02//mini_22120202503623267718061501.jpg)
https://www.casimages.com/i/22120202503623267718061501.jpg.html
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2022/12/02//mini_22120202503623267718061500.jpg)
https://www.casimages.com/i/22120202503623267718061500.jpg.html
I put in a 10k potentiometer to adjust the voltage divider to neutralize each trigger. hackpad made and installed in an arcade stick, tested in SFV, it works perfectly
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Anyone know what the solder jumper on the top left of side B actually does? Desoldering it doesn't disable Bluetooth. Can't figure out what it _does_ do.
Also, anyone know where the Bluetooth chip/antenna is?
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It's just a jumper for the Antenna, opening it up will mess with the range but not kill it. The BT is built into the MCU there and no idea how you'd disable it on a hardware level.
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Hi guys i've BDM-010 motherboard no charge but if i insert it with cable it is recognize by windows utility to try it.
Opened it i've finded and little explosion on CAP circled red (i think is cap because one side is 0 ohm but in continuity doesn't beep, on diode mode one side 0 and the other is 0.725)
Can you help me to find is corrected if it is cap and if u know how volt and farad?
(https://scontent.fcta2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/326068763_569119408416206_305668643462613311_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5cd70e&_nc_ohc=aouf_AAA5lAAX_IszPY&_nc_ht=scontent.fcta2-1.fna&oh=00_AfBlpwd9a0Op5fiuvKHI5NMC5ZMMhNNaBjVpp4tJv6zE5g&oe=63CBE8C2)
On first post it's seems resistor.. correct? Value?
Thanks
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It's an Inductor, no idea on the value, and it's on the 5v line from the Expansion port. Even with it missing the controller would still function and charge normally over USB, it would just not charge when placed in a dock. If it's not charging over USB, then when someone blew that thing up then they most likely fried the PMIC in there as well, the DA69087 chip.
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It's an Inductor, no idea on the value, and it's on the 5v line from the Expansion port. Even with it missing the controller would still function and charge normally over USB, it would just not charge when placed in a dock. If it's not charging over USB, then when someone blew that thing up then they most likely fried the PMIC in there as well, the DA69087 chip.
Thanks for the explanation, that line certainly feeds the LED always on side A.. if i misure the volt of the 3 caps on the right of DA9087 i read 5volt if i power the motherboard.. i need to find the datasheet of thie ic for know how it works..
Thanks for your time
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That line goes from the expansion port to that Inductor then to the DA9087 pins 2 and 3, that's all. The 3 caps to the right of the DA9087 are decoupling for pins 22 and 58 of the DA9087, that's all.
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Hello
Whats the value of this cap?
https://ibb.co/1qHcXYf
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It's just a decoupling cap on the 3.2v rail. Not sure of the exact value, but anything from 1uF to 10uF would be fine there.
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Thanks
how would this cap affect the antenna of the controller?
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In no way at all.
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Then how is the controller losing 50% of its range?
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From some other issue.
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I have one question for 2 x BDM 10 controllers. Point me a direction please.
First controller, L1 /L2 not working, but R1/R2 is working. Second controller R1/R2 not working, but L1/L2 is working. All 4 x controller Triggers working perfectly, tested it with working 3rd controller. Flex cables is ok too.
When i connected first controller to PC with connected L1/L2 trigger, controller not recognised by PC, but when i disconnected L1/L2 trigger, controller is recognised by PC.
Same happened with second controller but with R1/R2 trigger.
After inspection under microscope everything seems ok. Problem is on motherboards somewhere or SIE chips fault ?
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Are you also testing on the PS5? You only mention PC testing, but say they will not detect with the Trigger assemblies plugged in.
If all of the assemblies work in another controller, then the SIE would probably be the best guess, as most of the Trigger assembly connections go right to it. Could try reflowing it to see if anything changes first.
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Hi,
want to know if anyone know the value of the resistor and capacitor that I circle in Yellow and Red?
Thanks in advance.
(https://i.ibb.co/m6Cj4qV/ds5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m6Cj4qV)
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Resistor is 27 ohms. No idea on Caps, anything from 1nF to 10nF should work fine there since they are all decoupling.
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Are you also testing on the PS5? You only mention PC testing, but say they will not detect with the Trigger assemblies plugged in.
If all of the assemblies work in another controller, then the SIE would probably be the best guess, as most of the Trigger assembly connections go right to it. Could try reflowing it to see if anything changes first.
Thank you for answer.
Yes i tested it on PS5 and they are same. Then i inspect it under Thermal camera, and of both of it, seems DA9087 is faulty. (shorted). Its posible to affected trigers ?
(https://i.imgur.com/eVYAcNv.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7gYbHOt2sQ
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The DA9087 is the PMIC, it's full of regulators and such, so I'd expect to see that one warm up a little bit like that. It doesn't look like it's getting too hot from that, unless you've compared it to a fully working one and there's a huge difference? About all it does for the Trigger assemblies is give them power and drive the feedback motors, but if that part of it was an issue it would cause both to not work not just one.
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The DA9087 is the PMIC, it's full of regulators and such, so I'd expect to see that one warm up a little bit like that. It doesn't look like it's getting too hot from that, unless you've compared it to a fully working one and there's a huge difference? About all it does for the Trigger assemblies is give them power and drive the feedback motors, but if that part of it was an issue it would cause both to not work not just one.
Situation is like this:
1. When i connect triggers ( left or right ) to falty side socket ( no matter which motherboard , L1/L2 or R1/R2 not working side ) DA9087 become hot like this.
2. When i connected both triggers to working side socket ( L or R no matter ) they working perfect on working side ( no matter again L1/L2 or R1/R2 not working motherboard ) DA9087 not going hot like this. Thats why i am have suspicion about DA9087.
its possible to find somewhere schematic for DA9087 ?
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If you mean the datasheet for the DA9087, no idea where that might be, or if that's even the actual part number of that chip. Dialog seems to have several larger PMIC chips, but mainly in the BGA package.
As far as any kind of schematic goes, the only one for the DS5 controller is the one that I've made, and it's nowhere near complete enough to be useful. That PCB version is also 6 layers.
Then there are around 14 control lines between the DA9087 and the SIE chip.
The DA9087 powers both Trigger assemblies from a pair of 1.8v outputs, 1.8v and 1.8vE. The 1.8v powers the Trigger assemblies as well as the Sticks, vRef for the SIE and a couple other things, then the 1.8vE powers the EEP chips on the assemblies, the SIE and the Haptic feedback controller. I doubt any of that is causing the issue, as a short on one side would also affect the other side.
As previously mentioned, the DA9087 also powers the feedback motors on the assemblies, and those are independent of each other. As are the data connections of the assemblies, but those only go to the EEP chips on them. The Left and Right side are each on their own I2C bus, but the one on the Left is also connected to the Haptic controller I2C.
Does the Haptic feedback work on the controller with the dead L1/L2?
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İ dont know, i don't have a chance to try, yesterday night, owner took it back. I offered to buy it, hes not accepted. Sad, it would be interesting to find the problem and learn something new.
Sorry to bother you too.
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No bother, I'll have some friends keep an eye out for one that acts that way and if they run across it it'll head this way.
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Are there any ground (GND) points on the same side of the board that has the button points (ie, square, triangle, circle, X, DR, DL, DU, DD)?
Ideally, I would like to add four back buttons mapped to DR, DL, DU, and DD and would like to use a common ground (GND) point for each of those four buttons. It would be convenient if the GND point is on the same side of the board so I don?t have to remove extra parts to find a GND point. So are there any GND points on the same side as DR, DL, DU, and DD?
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There are ground connections all over the board. You can use any of the 4 big solder joints at the sticks, all of those are ground.
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That?s great to know. So can I solder 4 different wires to a single one of those joints? Or does each wire needs it?s own ground point?
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You can do it either of those ways or you can daisy chain the ground connections together, it will all work the exact same in the end.
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Awesome! I really appreciate your help and quick responses!
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Third white wire on the battery for balancing? dismantled the battery, but there is 1 bank. I want to increase the capacity by soldering another one
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White wire is for the Thermistor in the battery pack, to watch the temperature.
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Hello!
I'm struggling to understand what has to be done for the L2/R2 buttons. I want to do it without the FPC ribbon, and following the comments this is what I understand.
Am I understanding the explanations correctly?
https://imgur.com/a/MKOpbnl
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Yep. Far easier to just leave the FPC plugged in there though, not like it takes up a ton of room, and you can easily fold it to wherever. Then all you need is 2 wires and a 100 ohm to 1k on the new L2/R2 button.
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So, as long the FPC is only connected to the BWL I wont need more wires? Cool!
In the main post you mention a pullup resistor, is that the 100 Ohms resistor? Or you mean that the resistor of the button can range from 100 to 1k ohms?
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If you leave the FPC connected then you'll just need 2 wires for each of the L2/R2 buttons, one to ground, the other to the L2/R2 line. The 100 to 1k is for that new button, and it can go on eihter side of it, doesn't matter, ground side or the L2/R2 side, all the same. It's just there so that you're not shorting the line directly to ground when you press the new L2/R2 button. The PU and all is already on the FPC, which is why it's just easier to leave that thing plugged in.
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Thank you for the explanation! You are a fountain of wisdom.
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Welcome.
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I'm making an adaptive controller from a ps5 BDM-020 MOTHERBOARD. I think I figured all the buttons except the options and share buttons. I did get them to work by running a lead from the ground and touching the contacts, however I barley can see them let alone solder a wire to the small contact (top right for the share button, top left for the the options button). Are there any solder points I can use or another solution?
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There are no nice TP spots or anywhere to get at most of the buttons in the PS controllers.
If you are not concerned with the original function of the buttons, then just take an Xacto knife and pop the top off them. It's just a little metal cap that bends to make the connection. Then you can solder to the center contact in there, and use any ground for the other side of your new Options/Share buttons.
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(https://i.imgur.com/k4TwlgQ.jpeg)
Hi there, I lost this little one while removing the joysticks. I'm assuming this is just a little decoupling capacitor, will it be ok if I just bridge it, or should I try and find a replacement? If so does anyone know what size these are, smd isn't my forte.
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Never bridge where a Capacitor was installed, or any component for that matter, unless it was already a jumper to begin with.
Just leave it off, and make sure none of the bits of it leftover are connecting, it'll be fine.
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Never bridge where a Capacitor was installed, or any component for that matter, unless it was already a jumper to begin with.
Just leave it off, and make sure none of the bits of it leftover are connecting, it'll be fine.
Good to know, thanks for the swift response! Having now looked up what a decoupling capacitor is for, I can see how bridging it would be a mistake.
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Hi, I am an student of industrial electronic engineering. I am on the fourth year of the career and I hava to do a final degree project about the PS5 controller. I have to remap all the buttons and conect them to an arduino board. The objective of this project is to controll the PS5 controller with the PC keyboard. I read all the post and I now I know where most of the buttons are on the motherboard but there is a think that i need u to help me. I dont understant how i can reamp the create and share buttons, can u explain me how to do it? This buttons also are activo Lo (1.8V) like most of buttons?
Thank u for ur help, I apreciate ur work.
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Those buttons are just active Lo like most of the others are.
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Those buttons are just active Lo like most of the others are.
Ty,
Do u know where I can solder the cables for the Share and create buttons?
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Either pop the top off the Tact button and use the contacts inside it, or hot air it off there and use the pads on the board. There are no nice easy spots for those.
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Good morning, could you tell me the key points of the touchpad board? It would be very helpful to me. Thank you very much.
(https://imgur.com/Cv0nx2j)
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Continued adaptive controller project....
R1/R2 & L1/L2 Buttons
I have removed the 6 pin flex cable, put an extension cable instead and plugged it into a breakout board. The plan is to have 2 micro switches connected as R1 and R2. I would then 3d print something so when I press the R2 micro switch, I would still have the function of the haptic feedback trigger.
I have read the forum here but did not understand when to use a 1kohm or 10kohm resister and I do not have the pinouts for the 6 pins I now have.
If some could help i need:
i) Which pins should I use as i'm getting alot of random things, like pressing 1 micro switch and both R1/R2 are getting triggered.
ii) Should I have a 10 ohm resister from the R2 & L2 or is that resister only when soldering directly to the board
Much appreciated
https://imgur.com/a/9zxVLfZ
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With that little L1/L2 and R1/R2 FPC unplugged the L2/R2 lines are floating and weird things will happen.
On the BWL-020 board there, solder a 10k from TP4 to TP6 (see the BWL-020, TRIGGER ASSEMBLY TOP image in the first post). That will keep the L2/R2 in the not pressed state, until you press your button, which will connect L2/R2 to ground and cause it to be pressed 100%. You can do that thru a 1k or less if you prefer.
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Can this be done using the pinouts I have from the breakout board instead on the BVWL-20 as soldering is not my strong suite. (I have posted a picture to easily understand what i did)
Given I removed the FPC and these things started happening, can I replicate the resistance of what the FPC had and put it into my board.
Thanks for the info and patience
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Try a 10k between pins 2 and 4 on your board there.
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Couldn't find a 10k ohm but found an 8k ohm.
Plugged
5 - micro switch - 6 = R1
5 - micro switch - 1 = R1 (alternative)
(micro switch set to all ways off)
2 - 8k ohm resistor - 4 = R2 stopped being pressed.
If I contact 3 with 2 or 4, the board switches off.
Tried to do it and kind of worked...
2 - 8k ohm resistor - micro switch - 4 (micro switch set to all ways on)
When switch is pressed the R2 does work but there is a bit of a delay.
In my mind I thought that I should have
3 - micro switch - ground (which ground, normal or L3/R3)
Any help would be appreciated as the R2 L2 is the last buttons I need to get this to work :)
Edit: I'm re-reading this post, and even your answer to me.
Do you mean
3 - 1k ohm resister - micro switch - ground (micro switch set to all ways off, and ground being the normal ground)
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Ground is ground, there is no this ground for this and that ground for that in there.
2 - Resistor - 4
2 - New L2/R2 button - 1, 3 or 6, they are all ground.
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The buttons worked :)
Thanks RDC big help...
If others need to do similar mod:
Setup BDM-020 MOTHERBOARD with break board to replace FPC R1/R2
(FPC/FFC flexible cable adapter board Pitch 0.5mm to straight 2.54mm 6Pin)
2 - Resistor - 4
2 - New button - 3 = R2
5 - New button - 6 = R1
However this disabled the adaptive trigger, which is something I did not wish as I want it to have all the features.
Any solutions?
Thanks
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Are you talking about the Analog ability of the L2/R2? or the feedback motor?
If it's the motor, then try putting a 5.6k between pins 2 an 3, yes in parallel with the button.
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I think it's the analog ability of L2/R2 I am talking about.
When I press the original R2 button with the ribbon disconnected (and connected to a micro switch as discussed before) the R2 button on Astro adaptive trigger screen does not move at all.
When I press the micro switch, then the button is fully pressed and the motor does come on.
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The Analog feature is how much you are pulling the trigger. Just a bit, half way, 3/4, a full pull and then everything in between, like using the brakes and accelerator of a vehicle, much the same way the Sticks work, there is a range there. You can't have the Analog ability with a button, that's either on or it's off.
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Yes yes I understand that.
However what i want to do is use the adaptive trigger, and when I pres the adaptive trigger I would have the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 & full press. Just under the full press I would have my micro switch (for when the game do not have any adaptive trigger).
The idea, in my mind at least, is that I am copying the controller design of using the adaptive trigger, which I did not touch, and moving the FPC into a different position (then 3d print a housing).
However the situation now is that when I press the adaptive trigger nothing happens, and when I press the micro switch the R2 is activated.
Any ideas?
Thanks
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You have the original L2/R2 FPC disconnected and your breakout board plugged in there, which in no way copies exactly how that FPC works. It has a voltage divider on it made up of 2 Resistors. One that is around 8k for the Pull-Up then one that is around 5.6k for the L2/R2 button. The more you press L2/R2, the lower that 5.6k Resistor value gets, so the L2/R2 are not going to work like they used to with how your board is setup becasue you only have a switch in there, which is only on or off.
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hallo guys,
I need the value of this capacitor (BDM-020). https://imgur.com/a/IkicVqN Thanks in advance! :hifive:
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It will work perfectly fine missing, no need to replace it.
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Many thanks.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/9Dcryb9t/Whats-App-Image-2023-05-17-at-20-52-38.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9Dcryb9t)
hello. can anyone tell me where goes de third pin from the left. i lost track.
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It goes, nowhere, and neither does the 4th from the right.
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Thank you so much muy friend :#1: :#1:
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Welcome.
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New here, so hi all :winker:
I am doing small project on one of mine DualSense controllers. Project is related to really bad solution for thumbsticks, that is pots used there. Managed to measure that controller logic is looking for voltage from 0.3 to 1.5V for max movement of stick in both directions and 0.9V is neutral position.
Here is a thing, I have a lot of DualShock 3 controllers laying around, and luckily for me those all have 4 pin HallEffect "contactless" pots as they call them. Problem with those HallEffect modules is they are in total 10k Ohms, and on both out pins P1 and P2 difference in Ohms is approx +-150... that is, they work as pots with 10k total Ohms, 4 variable resistors with 10k each, 2 in series then those two lines in parallel. And here is the tricky part, when thumbstick moves in one of the axis, diagonal resistors in this module lose Ohms, while other two gain same amount, and by this P1 and P2 outputs are basically (when connected to power source) give difference in voltage.
So if I connect this "pot" to 1.8V, P1 and P2 have 0.9V, when I move one axis to it's max value, voltage changes for apporx 0.015V that is P1 gains and is 0.915V while P2 looses and is 0.885V... Now I am aware that Sony did this with two values so they get more precise readout by subtracting P1 and P2, aka Vout = (P1 - P2) * Gain + Voffset (where Voffset would be 0.9V and Gain would be approx 45ish for DualSense).
Problem is, I cannot find anything that would work on 1.8V and be as small and accessible for DualSense. Did try with Arduinos just for testing, but that 30ish mV is so small value that I need to make it have some gain before even considering to pull it through MCU.
I did consider using higher voltage of a DualSense controller to power up any additional circuits, but problem that I have is that I cannot find where should I take it in order not to drain battery if controller is off.
Does anyone know if there are any HallEffect modules that would fit in place of DualSense pots and have reasonable voltage/resistance difference? Or at least if someone could point me towards how to solve this problem of mine? Did look into models that are for SteamDeck, but those have HallEffect sensor soldered on breadboard of Thumbstick and only magnet in housing of conventional pot, so it is a no go...
Thanks in advance
HallEffect sensor picture:
https://ibb.co/nsz5Cgg
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...maybe I found a way with some OpAmps and a MCU, currently I have Arduino Nano 33 BLE, I found really small form factor MCU board that uses same chip as Nano 33 BLE, so it is a win win...
So, I came to idea to use OpAmps with Vcc/2 to get rid of the offset voltage of each output (P1 and P2), and at the same time boost those, in fact, boost only one half of the curve, only positive, since negative one will be 0V. Then put boosted voltage to ADC (Nano 33 BLE can read 0-3.3V and has 8x 12bit ADCs) with as much as possible high precision. MCU can handle simple logic if one of the Px inputs has voltage higher then 0V, thumbstick is moved to one side of the axis (let's say P1 left, P2 right). And with that via simple code it will send data for all 4 axis (2 thumbsticks) via I2C to MCP4728 (4x 12bit DAC) corresponding P1 = P2 = 0V > DAC 0.9V, P1 = max > DAC = 1.5V, P2 = max > DAC = 0.3V per channel.
Yes I know I'll need 8 OpAmps, some additional circuitry, MCP4728 board and Nano 33 board... but I think all this can be fitted into DualSense.
Only problem that I have now is to get at least 3.3V for Arduino, MCP and OpAmps... hope DualSense has that...
Here is small schematics :)
https://ibb.co/svszNZZ
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With that little L1/L2 and R1/R2 FPC unplugged the L2/R2 lines are floating and weird things will happen.
On the BWL-020 board there, solder a 10k from TP4 to TP6 (see the BWL-020, TRIGGER ASSEMBLY TOP image in the first post). That will keep the L2/R2 in the not pressed state, until you press your button, which will connect L2/R2 to ground and cause it to be pressed 100%. You can do that thru a 1k or less if you prefer.
New to the thread and modding in general. I was wondering for the L2/R2, I'm going to be disassembling the trigger mechanism, motor and all. Im using just the BWL-010 board so just to verify, all I'd need to do is connect a 10k resistor from the L2/R2 (TP9) to 1.8v (TP6) if I get rid of the little blue FPC and connect the L2/R2 - New button - GND?
Also, when you say do that thru a 1k resistor do you mean connect L2 - 1k - new button - GND, and in that case, do I have to also connect a 10k resistor from L2/R2 to 1.8 and a 7.5k resistor from L2/R2 to GND?
From my understanding, either option works, right? Thank you!
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You don't need the 7.5k unless you want to keep things more like they are when the controller is 100% stock. No idea if that even matters, so you can just do the 10k to 1.8v is all then new button to ground. The 1k on the new button can be done or not, also no real evidence that one method works better than the other there.
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Hi all -
I'm having a very strange issue with a BDM-020 board where the left stick is shooting over to the left nonstop. I've tried changing the stick multiple times with the same issue. I can't figure this one out. Any help is appreciated.
https://imgur.com/a/RZMWrcx
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Define the issue better, as "shooting over to the left nonstop' could be interpreted as a continuous left or intermittent left.
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As soon as the controller is turned on, the stick on screen immediately goes to the left. It's not able to register any other movement. I can attempt to move to the right using the d-pad, but it will not work.
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The D-pad and the Left stick are not the same thing, so you're just making things less clear now. Unless the controller has a bad MCU, the D-pad inputs should all still register, even if the stick is knackered up.
Use https://gamepad-tester.com/ to see what is working.
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I understand what you're saying, I only mentioned the d-pad to say that on screen I can attempt to move things right. When I connect to Gamepad Tester, everything button works. The left stick is just permanently moving to the left direction.
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Either there is no 1.8v on the LSX POT, or the LSX line is shorted to ground somewhere, or the MCU is messed up.
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Thanks, I'll give this a look.
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Wondering if someone can help me out - i need to find out the capacitor values for the capacitors to the top left of the LH joy stick - seen in the BDM-030 Mobo Top scan below.
Thanks.
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...so anyone wanna point me where to find 3+V on DualSense board that gives voltage only when controller is turned on?
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Hi hope everyone is well
Was trying to 0 the left analogue stick as it had drift and was going to use resistors for pad hack- unfortunately I have damaged the trace and lifted the via it runs to trying to repair. Is the board now toast?
I have attached a stock image circled black where damaged
https://ibb.co/n05PQD5
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You have 3 'easy' chances before it becomes more of a pain to try and repair it. Go to the back side of the board at the damaged via, you can jumper it from there to the POT. If you damage that one, you can follow that trace a short bit to another via on that same side, then if that one gets toasted you go back to the top side at the last chance via before it goes under the BGA.
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Thanks appreciate the help
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...I've checked whole board, all I could find is 1.8V all over. Could a MOS FET help me out so it's used as cut off switch when controller is off power?
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Hi everyone,
Thank you for the help on my previous question! :laughing:
I would like to ask for some insight on a fightstick project using the DualSense controller. I've designed a PCB for all my buttons, with the D-pad buttons going through two SN74LS00 chips for an SOCD cleaner. Unfortunately, I already have the PCBS, and I completely forgot that these chips require 5V power, while the DualSense board mostly provides 1.8V, from what I see.
I'm wondering if it's possible to use one of the available 1.8V spots on the DualSense board and use a voltage step-up module to convert the voltage to 5V for the chips. Will this cause any issues or complications? Since all that needs 5V are the 2 chips, I also thought of using some batteries, but figured this would be easier. Still in the process of learning, but if there are other solutions that would be very helpful as well.
I'd appreciate any insights or advice you can share. Thanks!
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Those things aren't going to work anyway, even if you managed to get them on a 5v power supply, as they really need a minimum 2v to register a Hi input.
If your 74LS00 are SOIC or TSSOP, you could just swap them over to some 74LVC00 that will work on 1.8v. If they are DIP, I'd either make another board or some small adapter board to go from the SOIC to DIP.
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Hello everyone,
I have accidently ripped off the battery connector on the pcb and I cannot find the tracers anywhere online to jump the wires.
Can someone please tell me where the battery connector tracers are? Would really appreciate it!
It's similar to this reddit user:
(https://preview.redd.it/yakvtbq8xlu71.jpg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=3fe0213f34dba7aaa3fb13a5b36c93ceb2f49846)
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(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/Repairs/kawa90_DS5.jpg)
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Thank you very much @RDC
Much appreciated it!
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Those things aren't going to work anyway, even if you managed to get them on a 5v power supply, as they really need a minimum 2v to register a Hi input.
If your 74LS00 are SOIC or TSSOP, you could just swap them over to some 74LVC00 that will work on 1.8v. If they are DIP, I'd either make another board or some small adapter board to go from the SOIC to DIP.
Apologize for the delayed response, thank you so much! Found some adapter boards online that I think will work. :laughing:
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Hi guys,
I got a controller from my friend, who tried to fix his stick drift problem on his own. He failt and broke the microphone port, too.
The contacts on the motherboard are fine, I cleaned it after taking attached picture. So I want to soldering a new port but I don't know where I can buy once.
Do you have any ideas, where I can find it or what I have to search for?
Or do you have an idea of a workaround like bridging?
(https://i.ibb.co/HHLTgMH/20230702-135508.jpg)
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Hi everyone. Hope you?re all well.
Ps5 controller with this trace circled in red damaged- controller flashes orange three times and the small smd is also missing- anyway to fix?
https://ibb.co/C6YcJbH
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@ Ch3ck3rM0n - It's an FFC connector, 0.5mm pitch. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/kyocera-avx/046244406010846/10313211
@ John_1222 - Can't tell at all how bad the damage is from my image of the board. Clean off the leftovers of the SMT Cap and just lave it blank, it's not needed. Use some small thin wire and reconnect the traces. You can jumper wire from that spot to the bottom of the other POT lead on that stick to get the power run back to it so the trace repair doesn't have to also handle that.
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@ Ch3ck3rM0n - It's an FFC connector, 0.5mm pitch. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/kyocera-avx/046244406010846/10313211
@ John_1222 - Can't tell at all how bad the damage is from my image of the board. Clean off the leftovers of the SMT Cap and just lave it blank, it's not needed. Use some small thin wire and reconnect the traces. You can jumper wire from that spot to the bottom of the other POT lead on that stick to get the power run back to it so the trace repair doesn't have to also handle that.
Thank you much appreciated
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Thanks for the help, no I found some similar on AliExpress with cheaper delivery cost. Do you think this fits:
5pcs FFC FPC socket 0.5mm Vertical Type Ribbon Flat Connector 4/6/8/10/12/14/16/20/24/30/34/40/50 Pin
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mr36S80
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Nope.
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Oh okay, why not?
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It has a different footprint, also, the other Mic connector on your board there is on backwards.
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It has a different footprint, also, the other Mic connector on your board there is on backwards.
The problem is, the shop for the replacement parts you shared is nice, but the cost for their shipping within 20 Euro is to expensive. It is to much, because for 20 bugs I can buy another used/damage controller for parts. - Maybe I will sell it without microphone support. Makes more sense :-/
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Hi everyone,
Thanks for providing the scans & information.
I wired all buttons (BDM 010) to an arcade stick but now the controller blinks orange twice upon battery connection & when PS button is pressed. Then basically controller stays off.
When I remove the battery for sometime & reconnect it, it kinda works but behaves weirdly and randomly registers random button press/hold & whilst doing this it sometimes disconnects and goes back to double blink issue.
I'm not sure what I screwed up & if this is repairable, I've got scrap controller for parts on hand if anything.
It's worth noting that I first wired up the buttons of Dualsense to the original Arcade Stick PCB intending to attempt a dual PCB Mod but changed my mind, I have not powered on the ArcadeStick PCB when both PCBs buttons were wired, however I did power on the DualSense in the same scenario.
Quick demonstration:
https://youtube.com/shorts/zNhJ-BTfcRo
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Two blinks i think indicate a battery issue
3 blinks hardware issue e.g. a cut trace (was the case for me)
Possibly try a different battery/check the connection/connector on the pcb
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Two blinks i think indicate a battery issue
3 blinks hardware issue e.g. a cut trace (was the case for me)
Possibly try a different battery/check the connection/connector on the pcb
Tried different battery & double checked connection to battery, same issue resides.
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@ ANAS - What is the Resistor on the R1/R2 Trigger board for? You still have the small blue FPC plugged in there, so there is no need for any modification.
Do not wire both of those boards up together without using some kind of isolation between them.
What happens when the USB cable is plugged in?
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@ ANAS - What is the Resistor on the R1/R2 Trigger board for? You still have the small blue FPC plugged in there, so there is no need for any modification.
Do not wire both of those boards up together without using some kind of isolation between them.
What happens when the USB cable is plugged in?
@RDC - 1k resistors are connected to both L2 & R2, all rest of the buttons go stright to gnd (L3/R3/Mute unused). I thought blue FPC necessary to avoid floating values isn't it?
Connecting usb cable with or without battery always double blink orange, strangely however, when following this sequence gets it works & gets it recognized on windows & can actually test buttons, (battery in -> cable in -> battery out -> cable out -> cable in).
Before I remove the 2nd pcb of dual pcb mod, the button signals & gnd of both PCBs were wired together without isolation, however only DualSense was powered & turned on to test, not sure if that could've damaged any chip.
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Gotcha. Yes the FPC keeps the L2/R2 from floating.
As John_1222 mentioned, if there is no battery present, you will get 2 blinks, also 2 blinks when pressing the PS button, so there is some kind of battery or power issue there.
Plug the battery in, then hit the Reset button, then connect the USB cable up. You should get a slow flashing Orange LED to indicate charging, or just 1 slow flash to indicate the battery is full. If it still does the 2 blinks, then it's not detecting the battery and I'd check around that battery connector for any missing parts.
EDIT: I pulled the middle (white) wire out of the battery connector, it's for the Temp, and I can recreate your issue here. Since you have tried another battery already, that middle pin on the battery connector and it's trace is where I'd look for an issue on that board.
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Hello guys! My first post here. Thanks for everything, this is just wonderful.
I managed to destroy both sides of `X` via (BDM-010). Is there an alternative soldering spot?
EDIT: It was tricky but the via is still functional. But the question still holds - are there any alternative spots?
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Last chance for X.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/Repairs/VectorOfInt_X.jpg)
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With the new BDM-030 board it put a stop to my custom builds. I can?t figure out what to do for my mouse click triggers for the new trigger board. Is it still possible? If so, could you label L1/L2 spots?
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Everything still works the same, it's just been rearranged on the -030. Give the second page of the thread a peruse.
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I accidentally lifted a bdm 010 right analog pot pad... it was all drifting all the way to left... is there an alternative solder spot for this? I tried bridging the nearest visible line but its still not working.. i stil have 1.8v running on this area cant but cant find alt spot on multimeter... and also i used a 2.3k pot will this work? I believe it was 2.1 but cant seem to find anywhere
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I7VCZ3V5dVdI-iN5IN_JrS8twwccTcSa/view?usp=drivesdk
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That is the Left side, not Right. All of the POTs are 10k. The closest via for that LSX line is there in your image. If it's going full left, and you have 1.8v going to the POT, then you have the LSX line shorted to ground somewhere.
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RDC,
First of all, I congratulate the maintainers of this website. The content is incredible!
Regarding the dualsense pcb mod, I have difficulty understanding some things, even though I have a basic knowledge of electronics. In fact, I'd like to have a general understanding of how it works so I won't be lost on the forum, rsrs.
Can you hook me up with some cool resources to learn about it?
For example:
In the case of the 'Left side FFC Pinout', what is the function of 'M+', 'M-', '1.8VE' (why voltage E?), WP2, L2 feedback... I imagine SCL2 and SDA2 are for transmitting some serial information, but why is that necessary?
Dude, I'm a noob and I can only see the dualsense as press a button and it's done kkkk.
But I eager to level up my knowledge and understand how the dualsense works.
If you could kindly point me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks!
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M+/- and M-/+ are the lines for the little force feedback motor. Since it is a DC motor, the voltage might be +/- or -/+ when you measure it, depending on which direction the motor is being moved.
1.8vE was named as such becasue at the time of tracing the board out it was going to the EEPROM chips on the Trigger boards, so 1.8vE so I could keep track of it. There is also another 1.8v source on the board, as well as another 1.8v source for the Standby voltage, which I named 1.8vSb, and they are not all the same, just the same voltage. So when you have situations like that, they need to be named a little differently so you know which 1.8v it really is.
L2 Feedback is a voltage value from the POT on the board there. It's just so the controller 'knows' where the motor has moved to.
WP2 is the Write Protect line for the EEPROM on there, to keep the chip from being accidentally written to. Likewise the SDA/SCL lines are for that chip, and I still have no idea why they needed them on those Trigger modules like that, aside from maybe trying to make them proprietary in some way, which was a massive waste of resources as the -030 version eliminated all of that mess and only the Feedback POT is on there.
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RDC, thank you so much for your explanations!
My intention is to build a hitbox, using the dualsense.
I've seen in some adaptations for "arcade stick/hitbox" when using the dualshock4, the insertion of a 10k resistor between L2 and L1 and R2 and R1. Why is this resistor necessary? Is it to cancel out the signal, probably PWM, from these buttons, since they are analog?
Should I also put one 10k resistor in the dualsense?
Wich point I'd solder it?
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The DS4 and DS5 are not the same animal.
L1 and R1 don't need anything done to them.
You only need to mess with Resistors on the L2/R2 lines if you unplug the small FPC for the L1/L2 and R1/R2 on the Trigger modules. If you leave all of that stuff plugged in, and there's no reason not to as you're not trying to cram it into a matchbox, then you don't need to go adding or modifying anything.
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Thank you so much!
It helps me a lot.
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Hi. Is there away to run the ds5 without a battery attached?
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Better question is, the thing being a wireless controller and all, why do that?
I've never tried it, but a couple of ways that could probably be done are to keep the PCB from the battery pack connected, so the Temp line circuit stays intact. Alternately, try putting a 10k on the Temp line, center pin, to ground in the controller. That way it will 'think' the Thermistor in the battery pack is still there. May or may not work alone with just that done, as it could also be looking at the actual pack voltage and need a Cap tossed across the battery leads, but the Temp line is the one that will for sure cause it to not power up with no battery installed, even if the battery is in there.
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Thank you for the response. True. The only reason I ask is that I?m going to be using a pad hacked ds5 in an arcade machine with a ps5 in there. I intend to leave a usb cable attached to the pcb at all times, plus I damaged the battery somehow so now it doesn?t even work- another battery works fine.
I?ll just buy another battery for ease. It? interesting to know how it works though so many thanks.
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hi, 3 orange flashes on ds5 does mean something more than hardware fail??
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Hello again, RDC.
As I mentioned before, I'm building a hitbox with a dualsense. In fact, I have plenty of space in the box, but I still want to keep only the main board to avoid using the trigger PCBs and FPCs. To do that, I mapped the R1/L1 and R2/L2 lines of the BWL-010 to the FPC connectors. Regarding R1/L1, everything is fine (1.8V), and when I connect them to ground, they are activated.
However, I'm having difficulties with R2/L2. The voltage is at 0.74V, but when I jump it to ground, nothing happens. Where would the voltage divider come into play here, since it already has the expected voltage?
Could you please guide me on this issue? Thank you.
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Could have been done and using it by now if all that mess was left in there.
Put a 10k from the L2 line to 1.8v, same for the R2 line.
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Quick question, I have a new BDM-030 board I'm going to be using for a hitbox controller as my old BDM-010 ran into some issues. All I've done so far is remove the joysticks and solder in new pots to zero out the analog sticks. Was working fine last night, and all I've done since then is just scrape off the black coating right above where all the vias are for the buttons so I can solder the new buttons. However, now when I plug it into my computer, the orange light just slowly pulses on/off. Both the gamepad tester website and the DSX application I was using are not detecting the controller. I've tried 3 different batteries and they all do the same. Any idea what could be causing this issue?
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Good morning. I have changed several charging ports in the dualsense. but without any success. Could it be failures of the spare parts? Maybe they are not original.
Has anyone changed them without any problem?
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@Manavie - Slow Orange fading usually means the battery is charging. The Flex has 2 Resistors built into it that need to be duplicated on the motherboard now that it is no longer being used. Use a couple of 10k and solder one between pads 7 and 8, the other between pads 8 and 9 on the motherboard.
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15
@Port40U - No idea what you mean by 'charging port' there.
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Thank you for all the help so far!
I have a couple more questions. First a dumb question- I'm going to have the wires for the new buttons soldered to those pads, I can have the resistors soldered to the same pads right on top of the wires, right?
Second, if I'm going to keep the 2 small side trigger BWL-030L/R PCBs connected, would I still need to solder the 10k resistor from the L2/R2 pads to 1.8v so that it becomes digital, making a total of 4 resistors, or do I need just the 2 between 7-8 and 8-9? On that note, where are good 1.8v spots to connect to for the L2/R2 pads and also the two 74LVC00 chips you recommended a while ago? I'm assuming those can also be connected to the same 1.8v spot. Thanks again.
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You can solder them to the same place as long as you're able.
The -030 is a little different animal compared to the -010 and -020. All those side boards do now on the -030 is have the POT on them for the Force Feedback position, no idea if unplugging them will cause any issues, so best to leave them plugged in. They have nothing to do with the L1/L2 and R1/R2, that is all on the large FPC (flex) board now. The only 2 Resistors that you need to solder to are at the motherboard pads 7, 8 and 9, for the L2/R2 to keep them in the off state.
The top 2 solder joints for L3 or R3 are is the easiest place to get 1.8v from.
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Thank you! Where is the most accessible spot to solder the TP button on the 030?
Also is there a key for where each of those 16 pads connects to? I was assuming just the reverse order of the image on page 2 at first, but there are only 13 labeled on that one so I'm guessing there are some differences.
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I have not traced all of the -030 or it's Touchpad out, but if it's held the same pinout as before, then it's in roughly the same place as the -010 on a via all by it's lonesome.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/BDM-030/BDM-030_TP_BTN.jpg)
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Sounds good!
Also I'm not sure if this is the place to ask but I am having some trouble with the function of my SOCD cleaner chips with the DS5. I'm using the 74LVC00 instead of 74LS00 as you mentioned and have the wiring setup exactly for both U + D = UP and L + R = NEUTRAL as shown on this website: https://archive.supercombo.gg/t/guide-preventing-socd-on-any-common-ground-pcb-by-using-7400-chips/135312.
However, when I have the filtered outputs connected to the pads on the DS5, I run into some issues. Both the cleaners filter the inputs properly (when L/R are pressed, it goes to NEUTRAL, and when U/D are pressed it goes to UP), and when I press each button on its own it works properly and will show a pressed state. However, when the controller is untouched both the Down and Left buttons constantly flicker between pressed/unpressed. When I press them, they will show pressed but when I let go, it will go back to constantly flickering between on/off. This doesn't happen for the Up or Right inputs and those work normally. Also- when I press the Up or Right inputs, the flickering of the opposing input, Down or Left ceases.
Is there any reason you may know as to why this is happening? I can provide any other details if needed and I greatly appreciate any help. Thanks again!
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I'll wager you have no pull-up Resistors on your SOCD inputs, thus they are floating and will do all manner of weirdness.
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My SOCD inputs are connected from the button to the SOCD chip directly thru the PCB, whats the best way to go about connecting the resistor? Can I just solder it from the pad for button input to the corresponding pin on the chip? Im not sure if that would interfere with the existing connection.
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No idea what your setup looks like there, so no idea which way I'd go about it. Pull-Up Resistors go on your 74LVC00 button Input to 1.8v. The Outputs going to the DS5 PCB don't need anything done.
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Hi all,
I have an issue at the left analog stick on a BDM-010 board.
(https://imgtr.ee/images/2023/08/30/1d678e83dfaf1a14f6f975e823f03861.md.jpeg) (https://imgtr.ee/image/BDM-010-BOTTOM.A1DIT)
If I remove the potentiometer, I get the right diode reading at the marked point. It should be 0.5V, but after I solder a potentiometer, I'm getting 1.3 V... I don't really get it, what I'm doing wrong.
Do you have any idea what I could try? Do you know where this point leads?
Thanks in advance for your help!
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Why are you diode testing a voltage rail?
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Because this site of the left analog stick doesn't work (it's constantly drifting). And I thought, this way I can check, at whitch point I get the issue. And all of the readings are fine except this one.
Update:
I desoldered the potentiometer again and did another readings. I don't get nothing (neither ohm nor diode readings) at the marked point. :\
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That spot is the 1.8v power rail for the POTs and such. If there is no 1.8v there, then that stick would act like it was pressed left all the way, not drift.
Put a jumper wire from there to the bottom lead of the 3 at the other POT, aka connect the V spots, of that stick and retest.
v v
3 3
G G
G
Y
V
G G
V X G
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I did that, and it works perfect now. Thank you very much! :clap:
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Welcome.
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Has anyone seen scans of dualsense edge boards?
edit: this youtube video does show the mainboard: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfrpJM3vPzI
interesting that it doesn't seem to have a classic XXX-NNN model name on the board? Or maybe it's hiding somewhere.
(https://i.imgur.com/fXtBYXU.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/5WkrQnp.png)
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First I've seen it, but it looks like a glorified -020. More interesting is the amount of blind vias that thing has, they have only done that on the DS4 JDM-020, then haven't used them on a DS4 or DS5 since.
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Well I can't figure out how to upload my own images, but I did get an Edge controller and confirmed that the board model number is HMB-010. It's printed underneath the thin black foam used in the speaker connector. This is expected as the Edge codename is Hunt (and standard Dualsense is Bond, hence BDM).
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Hi the L2/R2 flex cable are they interchangeable between bdm 010 and 020?
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Yes, but if you put the BWL-020 flex into the BWL-010 housing you'll need to trim off the little tab at the bottom of it, just under the L2/R2 button, as the housing is slightly different.
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I have one question for 2 x BDM 10 controllers. Point me a direction please.
First controller, L1 /L2 not working, but R1/R2 is working. Second controller R1/R2 not working, but L1/L2 is working. All 4 x controller Triggers working perfectly, tested it with working 3rd controller. Flex cables is ok too.
When i connected first controller to PC with connected L1/L2 trigger, controller not recognised by PC, but when i disconnected L1/L2 trigger, controller is recognised by PC.
Same happened with second controller but with R1/R2 trigger.
After inspection under microscope everything seems ok. Problem is on motherboards somewhere or SIE chips fault ?
Hello there, i'm glad to have found this forum cause I can see here a very supportive people.
I have the exact problem for a BDM-010 and I can't understands why.
Beacause i need to create an hitbox from this, I can probably bypass the use of the original board of L1/L2? i've found that the L1 can be triggered by using the fourth pin from the flex port on mainboard but i don't know if there is a way to trigger the L2 without the board. Thanks in advance.
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Hello again!
I have dead BDM-010.
It is not determined by the computer. The battery is not charging.
I replaced the DA9087 chip and nothing has changed.
If the main CHIP is also dead, should the battery be charging?
Are there any control points to check the charge controller?
Joystick after a hard hit
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The PCB could be cracked somewhere, and that one is a 6 layer board.
There's no datasheet on the DA9087, but I doubt it will do much on it's own. There are 15 lines between it and the MCU, 6 of which have PU or PD on them, plenty of places for that to get messed up and cause it to not work. The MCU is also a BGA package, and if the board was bent too much or hit just right, who knows how many of those connections could be knackered.
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Found one missing element:
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fipic.su%2Fimg%2Fimg7%2Ffs%2Fkiss_198kb.1696361100.jpg&hash=1149d1f0319550fdf03a44dc976854dd545d6577)
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The PCB could be cracked somewhere, and that one is a 6 layer board.
There's no datasheet on the DA9087, but I doubt it will do much on it's own. There are 15 lines between it and the MCU, 6 of which have PU or PD on them, plenty of places for that to get messed up and cause it to not work. The MCU is also a BGA package, and if the board was bent too much or hit just right, who knows how many of those connections could be knackered.
But at the start, there must be a voltage that powers the main chip.
From USB or battery
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That's a 100k Resistor, it's a PU for the Reset line. That should be installed as it could cause the MCU to not start up with it missing.
There is a 1.8v standby voltage the DA9087 makes. Top side of the board, just a bit below the 2 TP spots for the USB lines is the 1.8vsb TP spot.
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That's a 100k Resistor, it's a PU for the Reset line. That should be installed as it could cause the MCU to not start up with it missing.
There is a 1.8v standby voltage the DA9087 makes. Top side of the board, just a bit below the 2 TP spots for the USB lines is the 1.8vsb TP spot.
AAA thanx!!! Thanx you a lot! The patient will live!!!
Detected and charging now!!!
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Hey there, I looked at your well detailed post but haven't seen anything related to my problem with L3.
I was changing the joystick on the left side because of stick drift and unfortunately while de-soldering I ripped a small piece in the red square which also lifted the board's green connection cable inside the yellow rectangle that I drew in the attached image. At the end, I still soldered the new stick and everything is working except for the L3 button.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dLNkwFxG/BDM-010-TOP.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLNkwFxG)
I was wondering if by any chance I can solder a wire from that L3 connection to somewhere else to bridge/"repair" that broken connection. Thanks.
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The only easy spot you get is the pad that's there on that trace. The one at the top right corner of your red square.
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Hello. Thanks for those scan RDC.
I'm actually in the same situation as setdeath described above: I may damage the L3 vias while replacing the left joystick.
I soldered a wire between the hole's button on the bottom to the 0201 pad you mentioned.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fLDcZ2jv/Dualsense.jpg)
I'm reading 1.8V when L3 is push and 0V when L3 is released (so same behavior as R3) but L3 is still not detected (I'm using the Steam Controller tester).
Any ideas where this track is going on the board ? I may have damage something else.
Thanks
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Over 2/3 of that trace is on an internal layer.
Last spot to get at the L3 before it goes under the MCU is this via here.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/Repairs/L3_R3_Torgar.jpg)
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I confirmed those two vias.
I'm reading the correct values on those two points (1.8V when you push L3/R3).
I've made a factory reset (through the push button on the bottom of the PCB) but nothing changed.
Then when I "Reset Device Inputs" (I didn't do it last time) on the Steam Controller Tester, now L3 is recognized !
(https://i.postimg.cc/Sx65sSFF/Dualsense.png)
So I guess it was just a software issue. I will test it on the PS5 later but I'm pretty confident about it.
Thanks for the help !
Edit: Working as well on the PS5
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Ola Amigos
Algu?m tem o esquema Eletrico controle PS5 ?
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I greatly appreciate all the great help in this thread- I've gotten my pad-hacked hitbox controller working and made several now! I made a v2 with some small upgrades but am looking to make a v3 hopefully and was wondering if this may be the right place to ask some questions that may be pushing the scope of what I can do with the padhack. I've noticed that many pad-hacked leverless controllers have this small OLED screen that shows what inputs are being pressed as well as SOCD mode and whatnot. It seems like a cool idea, however from my understanding, to do this, I'd need to hook the inputs up to some sort of microcontroller and program the screen from there. However, most all the microcontrollers I've seen run on 3.3v logic and the DS5 has 1.8v logic. Would it be possible to use a bi-directional shifter to feed those inputs into the microcontroller?
Also, I'd like to the option to cycle through different types of SOCD cleaning in this version but needed some help so I was also wondering what are some good communities online for circuit schematic assistance?
Thank you!
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Most of the DS5 inputs are active Lo, that is you drive them to ground to activate them, so it doesn't really matter what logic level the micro controller runs at, as long as you don't go driving the outputs Hi. The L3/R3 are the only ones you'll need to do a little bit more with as they are active Hi buttons, but there are several ways to skin that cat. There are also micros that will work from a 1.8v source, then the display might become the bottleneck, but some of those are 1.8v logic as well.
To do what you're wanting, your micro will go between your new buttons and the controller, so there's no bidirectional communication needed, it's just buttons to micro to controller. Then your code will read those new button presses and determine which outputs of the micro to activate, and those outputs will connect to the controller and 'press' the buttons. A display is just cake decoration, an RGB LED would be more than enough to let you know what mode it was in and used for diagnostics.
Schematics aren't going to help with different 'modes', that will be all done in the code you write for the micro.
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Ah I see, so I would just have some PU resistors to 1.8v, and once the microcontroller reads a low, send a low to the DS5 (I'm sure its more complicated than that, but just to get a gist)?
For the L3/R3 as well as providing power to the microcontroller (I'd like it to run off the same battery as the PS5), can I use a step-up module to go from 1.8v to 3.3v, since most of the microcontrollers I see have 3.3V logic. I see that the Raspberry Pi Pico has a minimum input voltage of 1.8v but I'm not sure if I can connect the power directly from the DS5 board since its the bare minimum amount.
And my mistake, I completely forgot I can just do the SOCD from the code now, as I was doing it through the 7400 chips before.
Yeah, the screen is pretty much just embellishment, but I would also like to use my own pairing LED instead of the one on the board to have elsewhere on the frame, where would be the best places to solder the leads for that? Would I have to remove the LED that is already on the board to do this?
Thanks :laughing:!
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It's not really much more complicated than that, setting up the micro will be more of a pain than anything else, but once you get over that hump just go thru everything in logical steps. Don't try to get every button and some screen working all at once, you'll just infuriate yourself to no end. Get yourself a bread board and make the micro blink some LED first. Then make it turn that LED on/off from a button that you wired up to it, with code that you wrote, not some demo code that already does it. Then literally after that you pretty much have the foundation for what you want to do there. Pressing a button and turning and LED on/off is really no different than pressing that button and then having it press the controller button. Getting a couple of them wouldn't be a bad idea either, as you can have one setup to do all of your dev work and testing on, then move to wiring up a controller to it for real world testing.
How the new buttons get wired up to your micro will depend a bit on what it is. A lot of them have 'weak' PU or PD Resistors built into them that you can enable on the Inputs, which are more than enough for what you're doing there, so there is no need for external ones.
There is no reason to step up the 1.8v to 3.3v as that will just add more parts and complexity to the setup. There is already a 3.2v source in there that the Touchpad runs on, and tapping onto that for a micro shouldn't be to much for it, if it needs to be run at a higher voltage. Now if it will work at 1.8v, then all the better, but you need to dig into the specs of that more, as I know that some chips that say they will work on 1.8v have a nasty secret of only running on that lower voltage AFTER they have been started up on 1.9v or more, which means that it will NOT work from a 1.8v source.
I'm guessing by pairing LED you mean you want to relocate the RGB that is already on the board there? You don't want to wire up another LED in parallel with it, as the board and everything is setup to drive that LED. Removing it and putting it on it's own board and then rewiring it to those spots would be the more correct way to go about it, but there are loads of options there. The easiest thing to do is mount your DS5 board in the new case in some way that just a hole in the thing will let the light out, that can be covered with plexi or a custom light pipe or whatever. I put the RGB into the PS button of a custom DS4 stick once, so there's lots of ways to go about that.
NOTE: Keep in mind there are currently 3 versions of this board out now, so any where to wire up this or that questions need to be specific to the version you're working with.
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Hi all! I've knocked down a resistor, can anyone tell me what resistor it is?
(https://i.postimg.cc/B8bnVTBS/Dualsense.png)
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That's not a Resistor, it's an Inductor, ~1uH. It's for the 5v input from the External port, so if you don't change the thing in a dock, you don't need it.
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That's not a Resistor, it's an Inductor, ~1uH. It's for the 5v input from the External port, so if you don't change the thing in a dock, you don't need it.
1uH 10% 0603 (SMI0603FT1R0K-Hitano)
Thank you! will this one fit?
I just want to restore a broken element, but I don?t know what kind of element it is
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No idea what the specs are of the original part, but I'd put something with a little higher current rating in there, around 1A or so.
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No idea what the specs are of the original part, but I'd put something with a little higher current rating in there, around 1A or so.
I can't find it with these parameters...
Could you send me a link to this inductance, please?
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1A or so doesn't mean exactly 1A, anything around there should work, 800mA to 1.2A for example. You can look on DigiKey or Mouser for parts like that to get specific part numbers.
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1A or so doesn't mean exactly 1A, anything around there should work, 800mA to 1.2A for example. You can look on DigiKey or Mouser for parts like that to get specific part numbers.
Inductor ~1uH 800mA to 1.2A
I tried to find it but in this size I can?t find it... without this the induction will not work?
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You don't even need that part unless you use a dock to charge it.
You also didn't look at DigiKey, becasue there are 22 of them that are 0603 within those specs.
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You don't even need that part unless you use a dock to charge it.
You also didn't look at DigiKey, becasue there are 22 of them that are 0603 within those specs.
Thank you! Did I set the filter correctly? I use the charging dock
https://www.digikey.pl/en/products/filter/fixed-inductors/71?s=N4IgjCBcpgTAnBaIDGUBmBDANgZwKYA0IA9lANogDM8sALAKwgC6xADgC5QgDKHATgEsAdgHMQAX2KwADAA4A7FFBpIWPEVIVwAAgCtACRbsukEAFVhgjgHl0AWXyZcAV375J0%2BXOUhO3S2s7R2c3D2IXbgBBEGIAWxFuGQA6H3jMAA9uMGTYSQkJIA (https://www.digikey.pl/en/products/filter/fixed-inductors/71?s=N4IgjCBcpgTAnBaIDGUBmBDANgZwKYA0IA9lANogDM8sALAKwgC6xADgC5QgDKHATgEsAdgHMQAX2KwADAA4A7FFBpIWPEVIVwAAgCtACRbsukEAFVhgjgHl0AWXyZcAV375J0%2BXOUhO3S2s7R2c3D2IXbgBBEGIAWxFuGQA6H3jMAA9uMGTYSQkJIA)
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Any of those would be fine, just always tick the 'In Stock' checkbox first, as half of those aren't really there.
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There is no reason to step up the 1.8v to 3.3v as that will just add more parts and complexity to the setup. There is already a 3.2v source in there that the Touchpad runs on, and tapping onto that for a micro shouldn't be to much for it, if it needs to be run at a higher voltage. Now if it will work at 1.8v, then all the better, but you need to dig into the specs of that more, as I know that some chips that say they will work on 1.8v have a nasty secret of only running on that lower voltage AFTER they have been started up on 1.9v or more, which means that it will NOT work from a 1.8v source.
Ah I see, I'm working with a BDM-030 board, where would I find the 3.2v for the touchpad? Most chips I've seen that I can easily access work with 3.3v, so I'll try to work with that. Providing 3.2 shouldn't be too much of an issue right?
Also, in that case, what would be the best way to go about doing the L3 and R3 then? I can use the built-in PDs to keep it at ground, but I'm unsure about how I would send the high to the board. Sending a HIGH from the programming would put it at 3.3V no? Instead of 1.8v. Unless I'm misunderstanding how it works.
Thanks
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On that BDM-030 board, top side, the top/left corner of it, there is a TP spot just under the last 0 where it has the BDM-030, that's a 3.2v spot.
The PU or PD are for Inputs only. No need to make your micro L3/R3 work the same way as the controller ones, you can just set those up to be active Lo like the rest of the other buttons for it. That just keeps things on the input side and the code for it all easier.
The Outputs of the micro going to any controller button lines, you'll want to set those up as Inputs (Hi-Z) so they don't interfere with how the controller works. Then in code you'll change them to Outputs and drive them Lo/Hi when you need to 'press' them, then back to Inputs again so they go 'unpressed'.
When you drive the micro Output lines Hi, they will go up to pretty much whatever the VDD of it is, 3.2v in your case. For the L3/R3, easiest thing to do is just make a couple of voltage dividers to knock down the 3.2v the micro will output to a max of 1.8v, and a couple of 10k per button will get you 1.6v which should be enough to activate them. Micro Output to the first 10k to L3, second 10k goes from L3 to Ground. Then do the same for the R3 with a couple more Resistors.
If you're worried about nuking something, you can always use some Switch ICs to do all the button pressing so the micro and controller logic voltages are more isolated.
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Thank you so much for giving me good information first. I lost the circled part. What is smd? capacitor 01005?(bdm-010)
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https://pin.it/7XMHQor (https://pin.it/7XMHQor)
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Haven't pulled one off the board to confirm, but it measures around 4.7uF on the board. It's just on some VDD rail, so it's not a critical value. Toss a 4.7uF or 10uF in there, 0402 size, 10v or so should be fine.
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Thank you so much for your quick response.
?감사합니다. ?
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I have one more question. Is the marked capeceter in the picture below important? Can I know the specification of the smd? and, the x button on the main board seems to be a short circuit, but it keeps running straight
https://pin.it/32dra3l (https://pin.it/32dra3l)
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Hi guys!
Please help. Replaced the 3D analogue with DualSense 5, BDM-010
After which the gamepad was no longer detected on the console and in Windows.
Flashes yellow three times and that's it.
What could be the reason? Do you have any ideas?
https://youtu.be/YILz3JS6LFs
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@ viewrush - That cap isn't needed for anything to work. No idea what you are asking about the X button.
@ MACTEP - I haven't seen 3 blinks before. 2 blinks means it isn't detecting the battery. What did you do to it exactly? Post pics of your board.
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hello :) is it possible to connect an LED to the 010 to match the light pattern of the one thats embedded in the board?
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Technically, but you need more than just some LED to make that work.
It would be easier to remove the onboard LED and just wire it up to extend it to wherever, or even light pipe the onboard one to the new place.
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@ MACTEP - I haven't seen 3 blinks before. 2 blinks means it isn't detecting the battery. What did you do to it exactly? Post pics of your board.
[/quote]
Initially I replaced 3Danalogs
I took it in for repairs, but they couldn't do it.
But they said there was a problem with the power controller.
I would order a controller on Aliexpress, but I don?t know how to change it?
Most likely you need a hairdryer.
Does anyone have any experience?
(https://i.ibb.co/Qcv6nQ2/IMG-0318.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Qcv6nQ2)
(https://i.ibb.co/dmXRXdH/IMG-0319.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dmXRXdH)
(https://i.ibb.co/pPzcSH4/IMG-0320.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pPzcSH4)
(https://i.ibb.co/wRRyv9N/IMG-0331.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wRRyv9N)
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I did some tinkering with a BDM-010 here, and I can make it blink 3 times like that, if I short the 1.8v rail in there. There could be some solder splash around the sticks causing it, or one of the Trigger flex cables could be damaged.
Try it with both Triggers unplugged from the main board and see if it will power up. If not, then look around the board for a short on that 1.8v rail.
Do an Ohm measurement on that 1.8v rail to ground, just pick any one of the stick POTs and measure the 2 outside leads. It should be around 500ohms, with the Triggers unplugged. With them plugged in it should be around 400ohms.
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I disconnected the triggers and connected only the board and battery. Still the same, blinking three times.
I'm a regular user, I can't find the tire you were talking about.
At the moment I ordered the DA9087 chip
Then I?ll take it to a repair shop and they?ll replace it, I hope this helps.
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one more question please. Is it possible to make use of the L3/R3 buttons without removing the analog modules? Id like to avoid installing pots or resistors if at all possible. I soldered on a ground wire tonight and used it to test contact points so i would have a better idea of what im doing but the L3/R3 buttons were the only ones i couldnt activate.
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@ MACTEP - If that controller worked before you changed the Sticks, then the DA9087 should still be good. Be interested to hear of that fixes it.
@ Garbonzo - Please use the default font size. The L3/R3 are not active Lo buttons, they are active Hi. They do not go to ground when pressed like all the other buttons, they go to 1.8v when pressed. Just wire up your new L3/R3 to the bottom of the board where the original L3/R3 is soldered. The top 2 solder joints are 1.8v, the bottom 2 are the L3/R3 button line, just pick one of each.
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@RDC
I'll be sure to let you know in January when I receive the controller.
In the meantime, I bought a new gamepad, oh my God, how expensive it is...
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I see, okay thank you very much 😊 i think ill be able to finish my project with confidence now. Just gotta pray i dont mess up the soldering haha.
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Hi, I'm new to this controller modding, but I have a PS5 controller and I want to convert mouse movements to analog stick movements using a PC and an Arduino. Should I use DAC or digipot for this?
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Hello. First of all, the question is that the x button is still active and that it keeps working even though the cap is removed from the previous question. It got better after heating up the main chip using a dryer. It's grounded again. Another question from the controller is that the creation button doesn't work at all, is there a reason?
(bdm-010)
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@ponziflex - Either one will technically work, though you'll get far more resolution from a DAC, just make sure it will work properly from a 1.8v source.
@ viewrush - All buttons pretty much run straight to the MCU. The only issues that you can really have are bad buttons, open/shorted traces, bad solder joints at the MCU or a bad MCU.
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I got my controller up and running for a little bit, but something went wrong. I need an alternate solder point for DL & DR on the 010 board if you know any.
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Alternate from where?
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Alternate from the one shown on the first page of this forum.
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I have no idea what you're doing there. If you're making some kind of arcade stick, then just use the same spots on the top side of the board.
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Does anyone know how the gyro works on the ps5 controller? I'd like to make a sphere ball outside the controller and replicate the movement, instead by tilting the controller, by moving the sphere.
Any ideas where to begin?
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Bottom of the board, -010 upper/right corner, -020 and -030 upper/left corner, that chip does all of that, possibly an ICM-40608.
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way to small for me to remove.
If i was to do it, would I have to de-solder those two contact points and run a 2 wires. From the scan on pg1 (board -20) there only seems two solder points but from a google search of the ICM-40608 there are 14 contact points.
thanks anyway
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No idea what chip you're looking at that has 2 solder joints. It has 14, only 9 of which are used. You'd need to remove that thing and remount it on another board and then rewire it to the board.
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Does anyone know a good location for 010 020 030 for at least 3.3v. Want to try using an rp2040 to do some messing around for chip on wokring on with mods and remappable buttons. Need a good power source active only when the controller is on.
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Hi guys, can you tell where is the IMU or MEMS unit in the controller?
I am curious if something like a gyro or magnetometer isn't placed at the dead center (center of geometry) of the controller.
I say this because the magnetometer in this controller is affected by linear acceleration (big time actually), and if not centrally placed, any rotation will be accompanied by linear acceleration element to it.
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Look up 5 posts.
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:#1:
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Hello!
I'd like to ask for some help. I am repairing a BDM-010 PS5 controller that has water damage. Some parts are corroded, can anyone tell me the value of these parts?
There are two parts on the "A" side (an inductor [1] and a capacitor [2]) and a resistor [3] on the "B" side next to the battery connector. I have framed the parts in the pictures.
Side A:
https://i.ibb.co/RBKqhHY/Screenshot-from-2024-01-19-16-38-02.png (https://i.ibb.co/RBKqhHY/Screenshot-from-2024-01-19-16-38-02.png)
Side B:
https://i.ibb.co/VYjpXR2/Screenshot-from-2024-01-19-16-37-49.png (https://i.ibb.co/VYjpXR2/Screenshot-from-2024-01-19-16-37-49.png)
Thank you very much for your help :victory:
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0.47uH
2.2uF
150k (0.1% or better tolerance)
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Hello. can anyone tell me the cost of these parts? Thank you
https://ibb.co/pXfWmPM
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The Resistors values are both 100k, then the Capacitor is not really critical, 470nF or close would be fine.
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Hi, while replacing the stick in my controller I accidentally took out a capacitor that connects the rumble trace with ground. I was wondering if its necessary and what value does it have. Thanks in advance.(https://ibb.co/09vm06q)
Did anyone answer this? I have the same issue 🙃
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If these components are damaged, can they cause a battery discharge in the BDM-020?
https://ibb.co/z70BPJ6 (https://ibb.co/z70BPJ6)
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Technically yes, but if some of those are damaged the thing shouldn't even work. Large Cap is decoupling on the battery rail. The two Resistors next to that are the divider so the MCU knows the battery voltage, small cap is just filtering for that. Last Resistor on bottom is Pull-Up for the Battery Temp sensor. The only -020 I have here is already stripped clean so I can't measure any of those, but I imagine they are the same values as the -010 board.
150k - Vertical Resistor
100k - Horizontal Resistor, closest to connector
7.5k - Bottom Resistor
Cap values are not critical.
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Technically yes, but if some of those are damaged the thing shouldn't even work. Large Cap is decoupling on the battery rail. The two Resistors next to that are the divider so the MCU knows the battery voltage, small cap is just filtering for that. Last Resistor on bottom is Pull-Up for the Battery Temp sensor. The only -020 I have here is already stripped clean so I can't measure any of those, but I imagine they are the same values as the -010 board.
150k - Vertical Resistor
100k - Horizontal Resistor, closest to connector
7.5k - Bottom Resistor
Cap values are not critical.
horizontal 59k
vertical 43k
bottom 7,2k
I measured with the multimeter with the 200k ohms function and these are the measurements...do I have to change the vertical and horizontal? I have checked resistor on board, or should I measure them removed from the board?
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Out of circuit is the only way to get the correct value for most components. On the -010, the Horizontal one measures around 59k, but the Vertical one starts off around 70k, ends up around 130k in circuit.
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Out of circuit is the only way to get the correct value for most components. On the -010, the Horizontal one measures around 59k, but the Vertical one starts off around 70k, ends up around 130k in circuit.
Bdm-010 and bdm-020 are similar, but i try to test out circuit. Rhank RDC👍👍👍
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Nothing....the resistor are ok, maybe the problem is the chip dialog(it was used) or chip system.
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@ponziflex - Either one will technically work, though you'll get far more resolution from a DAC, just make sure it will work properly from a 1.8v source.
Thanks you for your reply RDC! I'm making progress with this slowly. I'm exposing the pins using a remap kit. Now, I need to make a level shifter circuit to connect the controller to an Arduino or ESP32.
https://ibb.co/tmWFSNJ
(https://ibb.co/tmWFSNJ)
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Hello i wanted to see if someone can help me out im new to modding but wanted to attempt adding 2 rear buttons to my ds5 controller but im not sure where the X and O buttons are located on the pcb i have a bdm 040 thanks in advance
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Hi! Does anyone know the exact spec for this switch? I've found a couple that match but I'd like to get the OEM one if possible? Is it made by ALPS?
(https://i.imgur.com/6fEEGyl.jpeg)
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For ps4 are 3.7mm, for ps5 i don't know, maybe 3.3mm? check the size with the gauge and then write smd tactile button on AliExpress and order it, obviously you pay less if you take the compatible one and the original one, the original 20 piece ps4 smd smd buttons were sold for 4 usd, I got 100 pieces for 2.7usd
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For ps4 are 3.7mm, for ps5 i don't know, maybe 3.3mm? check the size with the gauge and then write smd tactile button on AliExpress and order it, obviously you pay less if you take the compatible one and the original one, the original 20 piece ps4 smd smd buttons were sold for 4 usd, I got 100 pieces for 2.7usd
They look quite similar to the 3.7x3.7x0.35 ones you mention, I currently don't have a electronic caliper to check, thanks a lot!
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Alps part # for the 240gf is SKRWADE030, for the 160gf SKRWAEE030
C&K, E-Switch and Wurth also make that thing, and really any of them will do the job, as long as it's not nuked while installing it. ;)
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hi RDC
i have a ps5 controller (bdm - 030) with broken right analog.
i changed it with ps4 analog and ps5 analog but it fully stuck AT DOWN , but right and left are good. my ls is just keep moving right and left but in a very short radius. can u help me?
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Stuck 100% down, it's usually either the POT has no ground connection or the 1.8v side is shorted to the Wiper.
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Alps part # for the 240gf is SKRWADE030, for the 160gf SKRWAEE030
C&K, E-Switch and Wurth also make that thing, and really any of them will do the job, as long as it's not nuked while installing it. ;)
Much appreciated! You guys are incredible, I couldn't find this in-depth info anywhere else!
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@ MACTEP - I haven't seen 3 blinks before. 2 blinks means it isn't detecting the battery. What did you do to it exactly? Post pics of your board.
Initially I replaced 3Danalogs
I took it in for repairs, but they couldn't do it.
But they said there was a problem with the power controller.
I would order a controller on Aliexpress, but I don?t know how to change it?
Most likely you need a hairdryer.
Does anyone have any experience?
(https://i.ibb.co/Qcv6nQ2/IMG-0318.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Qcv6nQ2)
(https://i.ibb.co/dmXRXdH/IMG-0319.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dmXRXdH)
(https://i.ibb.co/pPzcSH4/IMG-0320.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pPzcSH4)
(https://i.ibb.co/wRRyv9N/IMG-0331.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wRRyv9N)
The master replaced the power controller for me, the charge started, the light began to blink slowly in orange, as if charging.
But after 10 minutes the same thing happens again, there is no charge, it flashes three times.
Does anyone have a diagram for the first revision?
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Maybe dialog 9087, or inductor o the 5 cap 10uF....check it
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Maybe dialog 9087, or inductor o the 5 cap 10uF....check it
I told you that we replaced 9087.
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I told you that we replaced 9087.
It was used? Or AliExpress?
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Check resistor on connector battery, maybe them are short
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It was used? Or AliExpress?
AliExpress
-
AliExpress
Ah ...maybe is fake, I had bought a retimer for an xbox that had no video signal, but the chip was fake
-
Hello,
I have a very strange problem. I have a PS5 controller equipped with a BDM-010 motherboard. The issue is that despite the battery is 100% charged, the MCU sees that the battery is completely discharged. I tried via Bluetooth and cable, same result.
There is a voltage divider consisting of 150K and 100K resistors at the positive terminal of the battery connector. I measure 1.664V at the output of this voltage divider with a 4.183V battery voltage. I noticed that when I turn on the controller, this 1.664V drops to around 0.6V.
I took out another properly functioning controller and measured it as well. Surprisingly, even after turning it on, I still measured 1.664V at the output of the voltage divider, so the voltage didn't drop after powering on.
What do you think could be the problem? Could the MCU be at fault? Everything else works, it just doesn't read the battery level correctly.
https://ibb.co/3hTb2hC
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That line should be an Analog input only and not act that way, the dropping to 0v one. That trace makes a straight shot to the MCU, so it seems like it may have something really odd going on with it.
Tried holding reset for a bit? See if there is a firmware update?
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Thanks for the quick reply RDC! I tried RESET, but it didn't help. I can't do a firmware update because it won't allow it due to low battery capacity, even via cable.
(I tried this: https://controller.dl.playstation.net/controller/lang/en/fwupdater.html)
I checked the PCB with a thermal imaging camera to see if I could see anything strange, but I didn't see any parts heating up that would indicate a short circuit.
I did a reflow on the MCU to see if that helps, but it didn't change the situation. I finally took the MCU off the PCB to see if I could see anything underneath, but nothing. The trace from the battery connector is continuous all the way to the pad under the MCU. The pads are not damaged at all.
I really can't think of anything else but that the MCU has failed, but I find it very unlikely that everything else is working fine, the only problem is with the battery charge level measurement...
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I'd guess it's some kind of firmware bug or a pretty rare hardware issue. Since it shows the 1.6v there while turned off, aka in standby mode, it must either be setting that pin up correctly as an input or it could just be internally disconnecting it and leaving it floating. Then when it powers up, it's setting up that pin and getting it wrong, or it could be something in the hardware of that pin causing it. A protection diode or switching FET that's gone bad in there.
If you can reinstall the MCU, I'd just inject 1.6v into that divider line and then power the thing on and see what happens. If it showed full battery, then Id' try to update it, but if it's a hardware issue in there it'll just default back to the 0.6v again.
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Hello guys, I have 2 BDM-010 controllers that whenever you slightly press the left stick (L3) it goes all the way to the left and sometimes both stay flickering to the left, I tried RDCs previous suggestion on a similar case by jumping LSX V to LSY V but didnt work, also changed the LSX POT on both and the issue remains.
One of the two now is constantly going to the left.
Any suggestion?
Thanks in advance
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Estou querendo saber qual o valor do resistor que tem na placa do Dualsense BDM-020 o qual fica sozinho em baixo do anal?gico esquerdo, no finalzinho da trilha onde tem o potenci?metro que gira esquerda e direita ... foi carbonizado e n?o sei qual o valor, pois n?o encontro esquema el?trico dessa placa. Algu?m para ajudar?
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It's a Capacitor, the exact value is not critical.
-
Hello RDC. What about my case? What would you suggest?
-
Going full left could be that POT is losing voltage or the LSX line is getting grounded or the LSX line is intermittently floating or the MCU has an issue.
-
Thank you RDC
-
Going full left could be that POT is losing voltage or the LSX line is getting grounded or the LSX line is intermittently floating or the MCU has an issue.
Hello RDC, regarding the 2 controllers I have with LSX problems, here are the outcomes:
1: BDM-010: tried everything, changing the POT, jumping Ground, jumping 1.8 to LSY (v to v points from LSX to LSY) and even jumping the LSX x signal to point as per trace on side A. Nothing worked, as soon as I turn the controller on it is constantly registering left input. This seems to be a MCU issue.
2: BDM-020: same situation here, however; this one at least registers when I move the left stick to the right, it would not register 100% to the right but at least registers something; around 60% to that direction, as soon as I stop touching the stick it would go to the left and sometimes flickers in that direction, tried jumping Ground and also V points but it remains the same, after this I changed/ soldered a new POT and it seemed to work for a couple of minutes and then the drift came back, any suggestion?
Thanks in advance
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Thank you always. It's a BDM-010 model, but the R2 button keeps running. What's the problem?
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I'd guess it's some kind of firmware bug or a pretty rare hardware issue. Since it shows the 1.6v there while turned off, aka in standby mode, it must either be setting that pin up correctly as an input or it could just be internally disconnecting it and leaving it floating. Then when it powers up, it's setting up that pin and getting it wrong, or it could be something in the hardware of that pin causing it. A protection diode or switching FET that's gone bad in there.
If you can reinstall the MCU, I'd just inject 1.6v into that divider line and then power the thing on and see what happens. If it showed full battery, then Id' try to update it, but if it's a hardware issue in there it'll just default back to the 0.6v again.
I tried what you advised. I put back the original MCU and injected 1.6V to the divider line. After that the firmware update worked, but unfortunately it didn't fix the problem.
I got a new MCU, put it on the PCB, then measured the voltage on the divide line. With the new MCU I did not experience the problem anymore, it works perfectly.
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@ viewrush - If you mean the R2 is always pressed, then try removing this Capacitor first (bottom side of board) and retest.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/Repairs/BDM-010_R2_CAP.jpg)
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Hello everyone !
Glad to see the site is back, I was unable to access for a bit (unsure if it was just me).
I decided to pick up working on a controller again after a long break. I'm planning on using a Raspberry Pi Pico to interface between my inputs and the DS5 board (unsure if there is another microcontroller that can run off 3.3V that would be better for this).
The issue im having is with the pins, specifically the amount because there are only 26 GPIO pins. I have a total of 18 buttons (Directions, Shoulders, Triggers, L3,R3, and buttons like PS, Option, Share, Touch), but I also am planning on having a small OLED display just for aesthetic reasons (needs 2 pins since I2C).
I know I need at minimum 4 input pins and 4 output pins for the SOCD cleaning, but I want this OLED to show the inputs im pressing, at least for the main 12 buttons, ideally for all 18, but if not the remaining 6 can just go straight to the DS5. Does this mean I need at least 12 pins for my inputs, as well 12 pins for output, plus the 2 for the screen? Can the face, shoulder, and trigger buttons just go directly to the DS5 as well as a pin on the board at the same time since they dont need SOCD cleaning, so an extra output pin for those inputs is not needed, but I can still use it to detect input for the screen, or will that mess with the DS5's board?
Thank you! :tup:
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8 for the D-pad, 2 for the OLED leaves you with 16 buttons you could 'read' then.
Any GPIO setup as an Input only will not mess with the DS5 board, just make sure if they have Internal Pull-Ups that they are not enabled.
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Ah thanks.
Another question, I'd like to keep some kind of analog stick functionality on my controller, but for what I'm trying to do the DS5 joysticks are kinda clunky and I'd like something tinier. Would it be possible to use like a PSP 3000 or Joycon joystick or something and connect the corresponding pins (Y Ax to Y ax, Gnd to Gnd, etc)? If not, what options do I have for connecting some kind of smaller L and R joystick.
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You can make just about anything else work in there, but nothing will be a direct wire up and work perfect deal.
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Thank you!
Is the purpose of having it be Input only so it doesn't pull it up to the 3.3V from the MC (RP2040) and fry the DS5 board?
Another thing I thought of doing since I'm writing my own firmware, is having the controller work for PC on its own thru the MC, but also send inputs to the DS5*, as it is already doing. Currently, I have the SOCD cleaning with the 8 pins for Directionals, and 8 buttons for now in Input mode. However since it is Input instead of Input w/ pullup, the signals going to the MC on my breadboard are not working properly, although they are not also connected to the DS5 board currently. I'm assuming having them go to the DS5 board would fix this issue.
However, since I'd like it to work on it's own w/o relying on the DS5 board as well, if I PU those inputs to 1.8V using a voltage divider from 3.3v or something, would that fix it? If not, what options do I have to accomplish this.
*Ik the DS5 board can work on PC as is, but I'm more so doing this just for cheaper options as I will probably make some for my friends like I did for the last few I made.
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The 4 Inputs that make the D-pad/Stick, the ones that will only go to the MC board, do need the PU enabled so they don't 'float' and do any weirdo stuff. Then the 4 that will be going to the DS5 D-pad spots need to be made Inputs when not used, and changed to Outputs and driven Lo when used.
That RP4020 chip needs to be looked into more, as it seems to have IOVDD pins. Unless they tied those to 3.3v on the board, you could run 1.8v to them and not really worry about shooting 3.3v into the 1.8v logic of the controller. That might wreck the OLED, depending on it's IO voltage requirements. Just a quick look at the DS, it looks like having the IO running at 3.3v means it takes 2v to be considered a logic Hi, so connected up to the DS5 that way, the thing will never be able to tell the buttons are not pressed and either 'think' they are pressed all the time or just act all goofy since that 1.8v is close to the 2v requirement.
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I see,
I'll look into the IOVDD pins some more. To clarify writing a 1 to the VOLTAGE_SELECT register would make it use1.8v signal levels, which would fix the issue of sending 3.3v to the DS5 and frying it. The OLED screen (SSD1306) using says that Vdd for IC logic can be from 1.65V to 3.3V, and the Vcc for panel driving should be from 7V to 15V, but I believe that is regulated on the OLED screen module itself, so I think the OLED screen could still work?
Another thing is that, when I just put a voltage divider down to 1.8v to the buttons, they seem to work fine on the OLED? Although this requires a divider for every button lol. I'm not sure if it's because I'm not checking for a "high" input for the logic on my screen, I'm rlly just drawing a bunch of circles as it's default state and then filling them in if the button is set to LOW.
Looking online, it seems there could be some trouble trying to supply with 1.8v due to how the board is*, and that it would also mess up USB functionality according to the DS so I'd still need to give that a 3.3v supply, and I'm not too sure how to supply it to just that one pin. One suggestion that forum post recommends is to use level shifters, could that work? It'd keep the inputs to the DS5 at a 1.8v when not pressed but still 3.3v when going to the board.
*From raspberry pi forums
"Looking at the Raspberry Pi Pico schematics I see that it is possible to tie down 3V3_EN and drive an external, lower voltage on 3V3. unfortunately, according to the schematics, 3V3 is shorted to USB_VDD, that must be driven with 3.3v nominal.
Another option would be to disconnect IOVDD from the 3V3 signal, however, the RP2040 datasheet indicates that all the IOVDD pins must share the same voltage."
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Hello, I have a similar problem. r1 remains pressed all the time. can you help me? (bord BDM020)
@ viewrush - If you mean the R2 is always pressed, then try removing this Capacitor first (bottom side of board) and retest.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/Repairs/BDM-010_R2_CAP.jpg)
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Top side of the board.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/Repairs/BDM-020_R1_CAP.jpg)
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(https://i.ibb.co/jvRnf2W/sczpla6j.png)
Hey everyone. I have 2 questions for you regarding a BDM-030
Where is a good spot to take the RSY Signal (marked red) , cause the trace is broken right next to one of the stick anchor points. I could try to repair it, but it always end up shorting it to the hole.
And can i just bridge along the blue line to get power for RSX ? Also, where is the original supply Point of that spot ? From the via next to it i cant find a valid spot
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That's 3 questions.
1. No easy spots for RSX (red) or RSY (blue). Either have to remove the solder mask on the trace somewhere and solder a wire there to run back to the RSX, or go back to the first via and do the same.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS5/Repairs/BDM-030_RSX_RSY.jpg)
2. Yes
3. From an internal layer, which comes from the PMIC
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Thanks for the fast reply. Indeed that were 3 questions :laughing:
I will take the via then. Followed the traces last night but wasnt able to propely do anything due to lack of conentration.
A buddy gave me this one to install hall-effect sticks after the first 2 normal ones he replaced himself. Missing 2 vias already but luckily they were just ground.
But i messed up the signal trace myself while desoldering the hole next to it. I hope i can do it, cause i dont have a digital microscope and this is about half the size of an HDMI trace , which i did a few times now.
I have a half-decent soldering and hot air station, i think i can do this one.
Is there any chance to get some links for newer revisions into here or another pictures with more informations like the ones for the BDM-010 ?
Or where do you get all that information from ?
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Is there any chance to get some links for newer revisions into here or another pictures with more informations like the ones for the BDM-010 ?
Or where do you get all that information from ?
Sure is, you can hit the New Topic or Reply button and post it. ;)
Any images or info that I post comes from when I run across a new version and have the time to work on it.
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Hi. I see V1 and V2 microphone flex, are they interchangeable?