adjustable 555 rapid fire on trigger radio shack brand

[Modded Matt]

ok rapid fire 555 chip with pot

part list:

part----------------------------radio shack #
TLC 555 timer-------------------276-1718
1.0uf tantalum capacitor--------272-1434
0.1uf ceramic disc capacitor----272-135
1K resistor(x2)---------------------271-1321
100k potomitor / trimmer----------271-284
ICPC board----------------------276-159
npn switching transistor--------276-1617
on/off spst toggle switch-------275-327
30 gage wire

***please give king mike credit for these origional pic's I just modified them to fit my needs. thanks mike.



we want to keep all components as close to the 555 as we can.

1) Insert 555 timer into center of pc board, bend legs toward center, don’t solder yet.
2) Make two jumpers 1" long. (Two pieces of wire stripped on each end) keep it all close
To chip, put these jumpers into same holes as the chip's legs.
   2A) first jumper pin four to eight
   2B) second jumper pin two to six
   2C) solder jumpers and chip to pc board, only fill the holes we are using!!

3) Solder in 1k res pins seven and eight, make sure you have one more open hole at in eight

4) Put in 1.0 uf tantalum capacitor at pins one and two, this cap has a positive side and negative side the positive side should be in hole two. Now solder only pin two. (Leave neg side for now)

5) Put in 0.1 uf capacitor at pins one and five. At pin one, put this cap in the same hole as the last capacitor. You should still have one hole open at pin one. solder pins one and five.

6) on the pot you should have three legs, two close, and one by itself. snip off one of the two that are close to each other.
   6A) solder a three inch pic of wire to each of the remaining pins of the pot
   6B) solder one of these wires to pin two of the 555
   6C) solder the other wire to pin seven of the 555

7) solder in a long wire (6 inches or so) into the last hole of pin one (this is for gnd)

8) solder in a long wire (6 inches or so) into the last hole of pin eight (this is for vdd)

9) solder in a long wire (6 inches or so) into the last hole of pin three (this is for output)

done:

now the chip is complete time to install



1) cut back pc board as close as you can
2) remove right rumble pack and hallow out controller to make sure nothing pinches any wires, glue in chip
3) run the pin eight wire to the mic's supply voltage
4) run the pin one wire to the battery ground
5) drill two 1/4 inch holes between the d pad and the right stick in the top of the controller, they should be on top of each other, then connect them creating a slot of the on/off slide switch. use common sense here and make sure you are putting this slot where the switch will fit.
6) run the wire from pin three to one leg of the switch
7) run a new wire from the switch to a 1k res and into the base pin of the npn transistor
8) solder te collector of the transistor to the middle trigger pin
9) solder the EMITTER to the bottom trigger pin.


test, adjust pot, close controller. now if you play multiple diff games you may want to mount the pot through the controller, this is you preference. drill a 1/4 hole where you want it and hot glue it in place. I left mine inside the controller, and must open it, when I need to readjust it. this is a pain. I thought about mounting it, but the moved on to programming my own pic's. 555 is obsolete.   

***EDIT***

1. this mod is for Rapid fire on your trigger, in order to create rapid fire on your triggers,      you MUST use the transistor.

2. the switch is to turn the mod off and on.

3. this mod works on matrix and cg, with no alterations

4. it is cheaper, easier, and faster to install rapid fire if you go to the acid mods shop and buy a kit from there. but for the do it your selfer, this works very well

[SirStar]

Which controllers does this work on?  CG, Matrix, both?

[Modded Matt]

Which controllers does this work on?  CG, Matrix, both?

tested and designed for CG

I will look into the matrix this evening

[baked juggernaut]

I followed this way and it turned out to work very well. I put it in a red controller I found at gamestop. Ill post some pictures later.
Thanks.

[taylorclark]

so does this work on the matrix?

[PspKicks316]

so does this work on the matrix?

Yes it does, I did it to mine earlier today(too bad both my button AND switch decided to...break) and it works great. You do NOT need the transistor though, on either controller model. At least, mine works without it and on my other controller (CG) I didn't need it using a 555.

[taylorclark]

thanks kicks! i guess i'll probably be doing this on all four controllers. But i'm buying my parts from mouser.com, if i bought them all at radioshack it would cost me about $60 for four controllers. anyway, i've had trouble with switches and buttons also, first, i bought buttons that were always closed, and now one of the switches i bought is broken. stupid radioshack.

[KingMike_OS]

The point of the transister is to have rapid fire on a triger not the switch .. so when the trigger is pull it rapid fires ..
just like the Pic 12F683 Rapid fire on Trigger..

I don'r get this do

part----------------------------radio shack #
TLC 555 timer-------------------276-1718
1.0uf tantalum capacitor--------272-1434
0.1uf ceramic disc capacitor----272-135
1K resistor(x2)---------------------271-1321
100k potomitor / trimmer----------271-284
ICPC board----------------------276-284
npn switching transistor--------276-1617
on/off spst toggle switch-------275-327
30 gage wire

Buy all this is way more than just buying a dual rapidfire kit from the store for $12.99 ????

[taylorclark]

The point of the transister is to have rapid fire on a triger not the switch .. so when the trigger is pull it rapid fires ..
just like the Pic 12F683 Rapid fire on Trigger..

I don'r get this do

part----------------------------radio shack #
TLC 555 timer-------------------276-1718
1.0uf tantalum capacitor--------272-1434
0.1uf ceramic disc capacitor----272-135
1K resistor(x2)---------------------271-1321
100k potomitor / trimmer----------271-284
ICPC board----------------------276-284
npn switching transistor--------276-1617
on/off spst toggle switch-------275-327
30 gage wire

Buy all this is way more than just buying a dual rapidfire kit from the store for $12.99 ????

it's the shipping that really kills you though. It's $12.99 + $5 for shipping, all of the supplies cost about the same at radioshack after shipping and stuff. and i can buy almost all of those parts at mouser.com for less than $1.00 each, and the resistors only costing about $0.05 each. Shipping would be an extra $5 to $7 tho. The problem with mouser is that it's hard to find the part your looking for, because of the vast amount of stuff they have. If i were a complete noob, i would buy from the shop, because i wouldn't wanna mess with getting the right parts for the job. Not to bash the shop or anything, as i have considered many times just buying that kit.
So i'd say, if your lazy, or don't know what your doing, buy it from the shop. If you want to save some money and know what your doing, go with mouser. If you want to get this done today, go to radioshack.
(i'm buying from mouser also because thats where i buy my craploads of 0603 leds )

[PspKicks316]

Oh, I didn't use transistors on mine and it worked okay... maybe I just screwed it up and it worked lol

[Modded Matt]

Oh, I didn't use transistors on mine and it worked okay... maybe I just screwed it up and it worked lol

kicks please dont direct people to change this mod on this board. do what you like with it elsewhere. I spent alot of time building, testing, and developing a tut for this.

if i bought them all at radioshack it would cost me about $60 for four controllers.

taylor, your math is incorrect, some peices you must buy in two or five packs, so the first one will cost $17.34, for a second add 4.77, for a third add 8.76, and for a fourth add another 4.17 so for four controllers the total radio shack cost is $35.04!!!!

FOR THE RECORD

1. this mod is for Rapid fire on your trigger, in order to create rapid fire on your triggers,      you MUST use the transistor.

2. the switch is to turn the mod off and on.

3. this mod works on matrix and cg, with no alterations

4. it is cheaper, easier, and faster to install rapid fire if you go to the acid mods shop and buy a kit from there. but for the do it your selfer, this works very well

[K313k]

FOR THE RECORD

1. this mod is for Rapid fire on your trigger, in order to create rapid fire on your triggers,      you MUST use the transistor.

2. the switch is to turn the mod off and on.

3. this mod works on matrix and cg, with no alterations

4. it is cheaper, easier, and faster to install rapid fire if you go to the acid mods shop and buy a kit from there. but for the do it your selfer, this works very well

So you have to toggle between have the trigger itself to rapid or not? Why not just remove the on/off toggle from pin 3 and put a switch off one of the leads on the transistor? It shouldn't make any difference right? I ask this because I have a tactile switch from a previous mod that didn't work out and I find it to be silly to hold that switch and pull the trigger at the same time.

[bustinthejustin]

You press once and it turns on, press again, it turns off. No need to hold it.

[K313k]

Ah nifty. And for clarification (I just went to Radioshack) the product number you gave or the transistor (276-1617) lead me to a bundle of 15. There's 3 different (5 of each) transistors to choose from; 2N2222, 2N3904, and some 2N4401's. Which one works the best, and do they affect the oscillation rate enough to effect the potentiometer?

[Modded Matt]

Ah nifty. And for clarification (I just went to Radioshack) the product number you gave or the transistor (276-1617) lead me to a bundle of 15. There's 3 different (5 of each) transistors to choose from; 2N2222, 2N3904, and some 2N4401's. Which one works the best, and do they affect the oscillation rate enough to effect the potentiometer?

it dosnt matter they wont affect it that much, I used the 2n2222.

as for the switch question you asked before, this mod uses a on/off switch, you push it up (it stays up) and the mod is turned on, pull the trigger and you have rapid fire push the switch down (it will stay down) and the mod is turned off, pull the trigger and you will get one shot.

you can replace the on/off slide switch with a pushon/push off lathching switch, but it must hold position. the 99% of tactile switches are momentary, and will not work

[GhoSt]

hey matt how many pulses does this vary between?

and do you recomend switching the output like you show in the diagram or switching the voltage surply? because otherwise the 555 is running constantly?

[Modded Matt]

hey matt how many pulses does this vary between?

and do you recomend switching the output like you show in the diagram or switching the voltage surply? because otherwise the 555 is running constantly?

I dont have a scope to measure the squarewave but I would guess somewhere from 2-50

as far as switching the voltage/output, it dont matter the switches I use are under rated to switch the power. the power is upward of 3v and the output is 1.3v.  I have a feeling you are worried about power drain, and it is not an issue, we are now talking milliamps of power consumption. you will never notice a difference unless you were stress testing a modded agianst a nonmoded controller, and the difference would be minimal. look at anyother mod out there and there are NONE that kill power to the chip, they just deactivate it as I have done.

[the seeker]

thanks for the tut. i have a question, my local radioshack didnt have the timer or transistors, so i got a 555cn ic timer and a mps2222a npn transistor. will these work?  thanks in advance.

[Modded Matt]

thanks for the tut. i have a question, my local radioshack didnt have the timer or transistors, so i got a 555cn ic timer and a mps2222a npn transistor. will these work?  thanks in advance.

it should work???  radio shack should have the parts i listed. tell the guy at the desk to do his job and restock the bins. I make it a habit to tell them when I buy it to restock.

the dirfference is the operating voltage of the timmer. the tlc timmer is a low curent timmer. operates at a lower voltage. the caps may neeed to be modified. these chips respond to dirffernt variables applied to them (caps and resistors) if you build a cn chip the way I told you to It will rapid fire, but it will not be as consistant. it will be underpowered, in therory, it will work for a very short burst rate, then run out of power, making it fire sparatically.

my best advise is to go back to radio shack and get the right timmer. the transistor should be ok.but that timmer will cause problems. studering, etc..

this mod, if configured as i show, will give the same results every time you pull the trigger, no studdering or anything like that. consistancy is key, without it, you will get killed

[taylorclark]

kicks please dont direct people to change this mod on this board. do what you like with it elsewhere. I spent alot of time building, testing, and developing a tut for this.
taylor, your math is incorrect, some peices you must buy in two or five packs, so the first one will cost $17.34, for a second add 4.77, for a third add 8.76, and for a fourth add another 4.17 so for four controllers the total radio shack cost is $35.04!!!!

FOR THE RECORD

1. this mod is for Rapid fire on your trigger, in order to create rapid fire on your triggers,      you MUST use the transistor.

2. the switch is to turn the mod off and on.

3. this mod works on matrix and cg, with no alterations

4. it is cheaper, easier, and faster to install rapid fire if you go to the acid mods shop and buy a kit from there. but for the do it your selfer, this works very well

i can do each controller by going through mouser for about $5 or $6 going through mouser, including shipping

[Modded Matt]

i can do each controller by going through mouser for about $5 or $6 going through mouser, including shipping

WOW, that is great, $5 bucks. Very nice...Me likes...LOL

[GhoSt]

I dont have a scope to measure the squarewave but I would guess somewhere from 2-50

as far as switching the voltage/output, it dont matter the switches I use are under rated to switch the power. the power is upward of 3v and the output is 1.3v.  I have a feeling you are worried about power drain, and it is not an issue, we are now talking milliamps of power consumption. you will never notice a difference unless you were stress testing a modded agianst a nonmoded controller, and the difference would be minimal. look at anyother mod out there and there are NONE that kill power to the chip, they just deactivate it as I have done.

ah ok cheers.

I have access to a scope so I can test the wavelength when I get home from holz and build this.

I was also thinking to make it smt to fit it more easily (besides the trimpot).

[K313k]

Okay so I made my own circuit for this awesome mod and it's all done. It looks like garabage because i resoldered the whole circuit because I had a mistake I couldn't locate. Here it is:

http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0632.JPG
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0633.JPG
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0636.JPG
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0637.JPG

I had to click the axel on the motor and puck back the weight to cram the board in. Again, it's not pretty, but it's functional. And i hop to never open this controller again.


Note: I used a momentary switch instead of an on/off switch. I did this trying to make a rapid fire button, but as it turns out, i have to hold the switch down an pull the trigger to activate rapid fire. Witches on Left4Dead are a breeze to kill now!

[taylorclark]

WOW, that is great, $5 bucks. Very nice...Me likes...LOL

thats if you do four controllers at once. it might be a little more, but i just ordered about 50 smd leds (different colors) and the parts for this rapid fire and it cost me about $17 after shipping.

[Modded Matt]

Okay so I made my own circuit for this awesome mod and it's all done. It looks like garabage because i resoldered the whole circuit because I had a mistake I couldn't locate. Here it is:

http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0632.JPG
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0633.JPG
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0636.JPG
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0637.JPG

I had to click the axel on the motor and puck back the weight to cram the board in. Again, it's not pretty, but it's functional. And i hop to never open this controller again.


Note: I used a momentary switch instead of an on/off switch. I did this trying to make a rapid fire button, but as it turns out, i have to hold the switch down an pull the trigger to activate rapid fire. Witches on Left4Dead are a breeze to kill now!

K313k,

as I stated in a pm this mod is for rapid fire on the trigger. to make rapid fire on a button, take the wire from pin #3 run it to your button, then to the center trigger pin and thats it. push button for rapid fire, push trigger for normal fire. this will eliminate the switch and the transistor. 

I designed this to be more natural. with it on a button, it is just akward for me, but to each thier own

[taylorclark]

how would you rig up rapid fire on both triggers with this?

[Modded Matt]

how would you rig up rapid fire on both triggers with this?

well, thats a new question worthy of answering. LOL 

one way is to just build another chip for the other side. I garantee this will work

a second, and this is just theretical, would be to take pin three and solder an extra wire to it so you have two output wire, add another switch so they could work independatly and use the same transistor method for the left trigger as you did for the right. not sure how this will work though I will test when I get time.  I have a feeling it may create too much drain on the 555, thus creating sparatic fire rates. 

I would suggest using the first option, I know it will work!!! and if you used two 555 circuts, you could have two different fire rates... not sure how that helps but yea, you get the point.

[taylorclark]

i might try wiring both triggers to the same wire then

[Modded Matt]

i might try wiring both triggers to the same wire then

just make sure to think through what you want to do, I would want to turn them off independantly, so when I am on cod or something, its not rapid aim and rapid fire. I will test when I get home tonight to see how this works. like I said I am not very comfortable with using the same chip/output for both triggers. I could be over thinking though.

[taylorclark]

just make sure to think through what you want to do, I would want to turn them off independantly, so when I am on cod or something, its not rapid aim and rapid fire. I will test when I get home tonight to see how this works. like I said I am not very comfortable with using the same chip/output for both triggers. I could be over thinking though.

after checking around, i noticed that people made a small separate transistor board for the left trigger that just connects to the main 555 board.

also, i got my rapid fire finished last night, and when i installed it and tested it, it didn't work that well. i can pull the trigger faster myself, and it was incredibly unreliable, sometimes it would work when i pulled the trigger and sometimes it wouldn't. Usually it just started randomly firing without me even pulling the trigger. so i bought all the parts from radioshack needed to build a second one, but can someone explain why that happened? did i burn out the 555 or transistor when soldering? I also bought a socket for the next one i'm building, so im not soldering directly onto the 555 chip itself. but i'd like to know how i can fix the first board also.