Author Topic: Sound Reactive LED Mod (Read 160132 times)

Altes · « **Reply #270 on:** August 09, 2007, 03:19:55 AM »

If I use an IC for an external sound mod, would the resistor value be the same as the internal mod or are they different? If they are, does any know what resistor i need to use.

gundamseedes · « **Reply #271 on:** August 09, 2007, 08:00:45 AM »

dang i broke my psp switch,... okay anyway.. i just noticed that ta082 wifiboards have larger wifiboards then non ta082 motherboard.. so how in the world did u fit 3 ics under a board .. -.- smd 0603? can you pm me a link to them? then what do i use to hold the lm386 while soldering

h4x0r911 · « **Reply #272 on:** August 09, 2007, 09:54:37 AM »

Quote from: Altes on August 09, 2007, 03:19:55 AM

If I use an IC for an external sound mod, would the resistor value be the same as the internal mod or are they different? If they are, does any know what resistor i need to use.

the external (headphone jack) doesn't require resistors.

ppmeis · « **Reply #273 on:** August 09, 2007, 04:59:42 PM »

Hello everybody. Well I need to say that i´m from spain, so my english could be very bad xD

Well I have read this post and im interested on it. But I need to know If it's possible to do an hybrid mod with external an internal phones at the same time.

I caught F00 F00 image and I modified it for a "Theorical" hybrid mod, but I don't know if its correct:

I know that external mod don't use resistor, but it use the other things...Only puttin jack wires before resistors...could run¿?¿?¿?

P.S.: Black rectangles are resistors lol

See you

Slimby · « **Reply #274 on:** August 09, 2007, 08:20:02 PM »

TA-082 wifi board, normal size LM386, just cut the legs short, used SMD resistors, glued the ICs upside down in the PSP. It's actually very easy. Two were side-by-side, one was slightly to the side.

Slimby

gundamseedes · « **Reply #275 on:** August 09, 2007, 11:39:42 PM »

>_>... where do i get all that stuff dang.. AND MY SPEAKERS ARE STILL NOT WORKING.. now its both of em .. great i tried checking.. could it be the plugs that connect to the motherboard?

ppmeis · « **Reply #276 on:** August 10, 2007, 05:29:24 AM »

A bit update lol. I have made the schematics based of tutorial one. That's the result for hybrid mod:

But I have a question. The GND or negative jack point could be soldered directly to Gnd mother board point?¿

See you and thanks

gundamseedes · « **Reply #277 on:** August 10, 2007, 05:59:40 AM »

now thats real confusing

h4x0r911 · « **Reply #278 on:** August 10, 2007, 08:54:15 AM »

Quote from: ppmeis on August 10, 2007, 05:29:24 AM

A bit update lol. I have made the schematics based of tutorial one. That's the result for hybrid mod:

But I have a question. The GND or negative jack point could be soldered directly to Gnd mother board point?¿

See you and thanks

i don't think that will work so well. as ur speakers will short out ur headphone jack as they are connected. so it might mess up the function of speakers off when headphones plugged in.

gundamseedes · « **Reply #279 on:** August 10, 2007, 10:44:14 AM »

well i just checked.. my darn speakers work whenever that metal plate thingy.. (the one that has the umd click thing) isnt on them.. when it presses.. blank......... .. sigh..

gundamseedes · « **Reply #280 on:** August 12, 2007, 02:20:04 AM »

now i got em to work except my left speaker is spoilt. the plug is missing a metal piece.. -.-. anyone know where to get replacements.. LOL

h4x0r911 · « **Reply #281 on:** August 12, 2007, 11:07:58 AM »

plz edit your posts that is the reason for the edit button.

i want to help but have no idea what you are talking about. plz get a pic or make a good diagram.

gundamseedes · « **Reply #282 on:** August 12, 2007, 02:11:38 PM »

you cant help. its missing a small metal hook in that white plug.. so yeah

hamchapman · « **Reply #283 on:** August 12, 2007, 02:30:39 PM »

eBay!!!

F00 f00 · « **Reply #284 on:** August 12, 2007, 04:01:36 PM »

Hmm, I really should have been keeping up on this thread, as I do sound lighting all the time now.

Heres a few bits of advice.

1. If your leds are on all the time but dim slightly with the beat, then ether your leds are the wrong way round (+-) or the type of op amp your using out puts to neg, in which case wire your leds accordingly.

2. When it comes to calibrating the resistance you need, it often depends on the leds you have an also the psp your using. Ive had diferent results almost every time. So now as standard I wire the neg direct to the pin, then use a bread board to test what resistance I am going to need on the + speaker.

3. Ive not found any problems with adding multiple leds. I think 8 or 10 is the most Ive use on one chip, but found no difference in out put.

4. The best spot for your ic is under the wifi board, in the bottom right. Then run your wires striate up and then left an have them come out under the dpad in the top left.

5. In stead of soldering directly to the speaker I now scrape the tracks behind the speaker socket an solder there. This is neater an has less chance of shorting on the lcd cage.

Theres probably more stuff but I cant think of any right now.

The main thing to bare in mind is to constantly test as you go. If you just follow the tut without any testing, it will probably be fine, but if its not your going to have a big job on your hands figgering were youve gone wrong.

I think Ive answered most questions, but if not fire away.

T3KN1K4L · « **Reply #285 on:** August 12, 2007, 05:47:22 PM »

Just to add Foo, I also found if you do in fact use a Op Amp instead of a Audio Amp, you will get both positive and negative amplification...

h4x0r911 · « **Reply #286 on:** August 14, 2007, 10:28:20 AM »

Quote from: F00 f00 on August 12, 2007, 04:01:36 PM

1. If your leds are on all the time but dim slightly with the beat, then ether your leds are the wrong way round (+-) or the type of op amp your using out puts to neg, in which case wire your leds accordingly.

i have that problem, tried switching the positive and negative of the leds assuming that the amp is giving out amplified negative on pin 5.

now the leds didn't even turn on at all, not even with music. im assuming i followed your instructions right.

i checked the pinout on my nte823 chip it is exactly the same. you think the chip is defected?

btw i grounded my led on the ground right next to the 5v. and have a switch on the 5v supply which works since i was able to turn off the leds before.

F00 f00 · « **Reply #287 on:** August 14, 2007, 12:40:32 PM »

Yeah that dose sound odd. heres the data sheet for your chip http://www.nteinc.com/specs/800to899/pdf/nte823.pdf

Theres some advice on there on using the gain pins, witch may help.

I think your best bet is ether to get the chip out an into a bread board so you can try out some different resistance values on the in put. Or just ditch it an get the same as in the tut.

hamchapman · « **Reply #288 on:** August 14, 2007, 01:02:52 PM »

Why does everyone bother with all the chips. I mean sure you get brighter LEDs but the difference isn't that great. I am personally going to try PSP_Werty's idea (you don't even need a resistor) as shown in this thread: https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=4650.0

F00 f00 · « **Reply #289 on:** August 14, 2007, 01:08:09 PM »

I personal use chips as they offer more versatility. They also Have a much nicer final look to the mod, an lets face it, if your adding leds to your psp, yuor doing it for how it looks. I dont know about you but when I do any thing I want the best possible end results.

hamchapman · « **Reply #290 on:** August 14, 2007, 01:19:40 PM »

Yeah I guess, it's just that the ratio of Work:Look seems way too huge when you have to add the IC and amps etc.

Each to their own...

Rowley · « **Reply #291 on:** August 14, 2007, 01:42:24 PM »

I totally agree with that....probably because I'm a lazy get but also they practically do the same thing just with a slight difference.

Dracrius · « **Reply #292 on:** August 14, 2007, 06:33:09 PM »

I have been keeping up with this for a while and only now have all the parts but am confused because with in the first post their was a mention of being able to wire it to work with both internal and external speakers(earphones) and that it would take removeing the mobo but ever since then their has been no mention of this again just one or the other and I dout that this is because it was false because the way it was worded was to suggest that that is how he did the mod (the original mod) and I wish to know how to do this mod in that way. CAN ANYONE HELP?????

Slimby · « **Reply #293 on:** August 14, 2007, 06:58:06 PM »

I didn't use the IC, because I couldn't get it to work, and also because I wanted the triggers lit even when the speakers weren't on. So I use the direct connection. It doesn't really matter, some people want one effect, some people want a different one.

Slimby

ndrew2505 · « **Reply #294 on:** August 15, 2007, 02:30:15 AM »

i couldnt get it to work the first time either but it was because i had the positive and negative backwards. how many leds can you put on an ic without compromising the function? would it be possible to use up to 5 leds on 1 ic?

hamchapman · « **Reply #295 on:** August 15, 2007, 02:57:44 AM »

Yeah, I don't see why you couldn't have that many. To be honest, I think most of the time it's more a question of fitting them in along with all the wiring rather than if the IC can cope with them.

gundamseedes · « **Reply #296 on:** August 15, 2007, 08:28:44 AM »

hmm.. F00 . where is the tracks behind the speaker socket an solder there. This is neater an has less chance of shorting on the lcd cage.

h4x0r911 · « **Reply #297 on:** August 15, 2007, 09:42:30 AM »

T3KN1K4L do you know what could go wrong with my IC (NTE823)? my is always dim and reacts but isn't that strong.

ndrew2505 · « **Reply #298 on:** August 15, 2007, 04:48:21 PM »

i got the sound mod done but when i tested the leds all my leds cept for 1 of 2 in the umd door were really dim while 1 green was super bright. if i use less resistance will this correct the problem? i had to use a 110 and 82ohm resistor for the 191 cuz i couldnt find any and thats the only difference i did from the tut.

Shot at 2007-08-15

T3KN1K4L · « **Reply #299 on:** August 15, 2007, 06:09:07 PM »

Quote from: h4x0r911 on August 15, 2007, 09:42:30 AM

T3KN1K4L do you know what could go wrong with my IC (NTE823)? my is always dim and reacts but isn't that strong.

Well, I checked the data-sheets on that IC model and as I can see, it's specs match most of that of the LM386, so the reason it could be acting up is beyond me, and since i don't have one of these ICs to test myself, I don't think i can help with this problem, sorry.

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Author Topic: Sound Reactive LED Mod (Read 160132 times)