There are four solder points on the side of the board where the joystick sticks out on the nunchuck. Holding the board as though the shell were on it and you were playing a game, the points would be on the right. I bent the terminals of my 5mm led to fit in the board. I followed the guide here on A.M. for putting a led under the joystick. Instead of bending the terminals to the left over the black chip, I bent them to the right. I had tons of placement issues. Ended up squeezing the terminals right next to the solder joints. I didn't realize the shell snapped through the holes in the board. Broke my LED. I placed a new one in the same spot, but with adjustments to not be in the way of the shell. I put the nunchuck back together, turned on my Wii, popped in Brawl, and the light didn't work. The package never described which terminal was the anode or the athode, so I guessed. Incorrectly. So I started over. Once completed again, I started up Brawl, couldn't move the joystick down or left. I forgot to sand it. So I restarted once again. Sanded my lamp, placed it, soldered it, and started up Brawl. Controls were REALLY messed up. It's unusable (the nunchuck, I mean). The light works perfectly. Its just that the wiimote only sometimes senses that the thing is even attached, and controls are heavily impaired. Given that the solder points I think I shorted out are connected to wires that go to the wiimote on the other side of the board, I think I shorted the output. Any way I can fix it or am I screwed and need to buy more LEDs and a new nunchuck over on eBay?
(I spent 3 and 1/2 hours on this simple mod and still ended up failing
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*EDIT* In the process of my colossal fail, I discovered something. This may already be a known fact, but it wasn't in any guide I've ever seen and its really helpful. On the TP2 contact, there is a large area on the board that has nothing on it just to the left of it. If you take a blade and scrape off some of the green stuff (silicon I think?) then you will expose copper. It is all negative. Exposing that copper makes soldering the cathode like, 8 times easier, especially since if the cathode ends up connected to the tiny chip just to the right of the TP2, then the LED won't light.
