Author Topic: XMMC - Xbox Macroable Mappable Controller (Read 11474 times)

t0pP8uZz · « **on:** November 22, 2009, 07:53:57 AM »

XMMC - Xbox Macroable Mappable Controller

Well after few hours of headache i managed to get my head around my RF code bugs that i was having.. So its not gona be long for a release on that. (t0pFire.. Formely known as InsaneFire)

Anyway.. Ive just been messing with a simple macro.. and its not gona be long before i actually get stuck into this project.

So too speed the release up of my next project XMMC.. I want lots of ideas and suggestions!

I plan on following this project on for a long time! As long as its getting used!

First off what is XMMC, Well its intended to be a Xbox 360 Mappable Macroable Controller, so that you can map buttons to diffrent buttons.
IE: map A to B and vice versa. Just think of it as a UPDATE spitfire mod. And in the first revisions it will probarly use the same setup as SpiteFire. Thus having a DIL socket on the outside of the controller. Then im hoping to get some USB programming worked out using the 360 PnC port. Like Viking360.

Obviously.. To keep this project well maintained ill be releasing Macros and Remaps on request. Only to active forum members though, Others it will come at a cost! Popular/Common macro's will be available to everyone.

Anyway enough of what i plan on doing, I wana hear suggestions!

I need ideas on the actual controller setup.. Such as

Where to locate the macro buttons.
How many macro buttons
Quick on/off tactiles for button remaps/macros.
LED's? For what and where.

I think ive already showed the community im not 'all talk' so far. My RF code will be release soon as i add all the features that i intend. So for the RF code it will be out very soon.

As for XMMC.. Well it depends how things go..

Be safe
-Peace

KingMike_OS · « **Reply #1 on:** November 22, 2009, 09:18:32 AM »

In order to map A to B or B to Y & etc you need to cut traces .. and there for installtion for be hard for most users ..
so we back where we started like splitfire .. it was hard to install ... 90% could not even get it working ...
2nd problem i see is most users can't solder to the A B X Y Location or D pads ... and since this mod is easyer
on CG controller most of does point have to be scarape and than tap in too

and if you dare to do matrix than comes the problem of space ... and to solve need to have PCB boards made
now matrix face butt its easyer to grab no scaraping needed .. but than comes the problem of needing transister
and resisters"For Each Input" since the butt have share grounds which is diff from Main board grond

t0pP8uZz · « **Reply #2 on:** November 22, 2009, 09:36:46 AM »

I have absoloutly no intention of supporting matrix controllers. Its hard enough to adapt simple RapidFire code to work with both Matrix and CG.

Also i hear there is a new CG (CG2?) controller. On CG its pretty damn easy, Just scrape the traces and tap on.

A number of services will also be available like Mod installation and premodded controllers.

EDIT: Also matrix isnt actually hard as everyone thinks.. You can tap onto four inputs and control every button. People just havent bothered to mess with these controllers.

spurgurgle · « **Reply #3 on:** November 22, 2009, 04:17:26 PM »

i have a idea.... not sure if its evan possible.....

but if you made a program that runs on your pc that you can use to re-map the buttons like you want to

say if i wanted to make a set up for cod so the melee atack is on the b button and crouch is on the anolog click...

all i'd need to do is plug my pad in using som form of usb conection. then open up this magical program (with i simple interface such as i list of the buttons ABXY and so on....) and then simply just type in what i want each button to do so say for this cod thing id just selsct B and tell it thats its now the anolog click and vise versa.

then click a tab on the program that re-flashes the chip like this so from then on when i turn my pad on B is now right anolog click and the right anolog click is B......

and then to change the setting again just plug in the pad and update the chip again......

it'll be cool if it had some sort of program like this that comes with the install....

if its possible......

t0pP8uZz · « **Reply #4 on:** November 22, 2009, 05:21:55 PM »

Quote from: spurgurgle on November 22, 2009, 04:17:26 PM

i have a idea.... not sure if its evan possible.....

but if you made a program that runs on your pc that you can use to re-map the buttons like you want to

say if i wanted to make a set up for cod so the melee atack is on the b button and crouch is on the anolog click...

all i'd need to do is plug my pad in using som form of usb conection. then open up this magical program (with i simple interface such as i list of the buttons ABXY and so on....) and then simply just type in what i want each button to do so say for this cod thing id just selsct B and tell it thats its now the anolog click and vise versa.

then click a tab on the program that re-flashes the chip like this so from then on when i turn my pad on B is now right anolog click and the right anolog click is B......

and then to change the setting again just plug in the pad and update the chip again......

it'll be cool if it had some sort of program like this that comes with the install....

if its possible......

Yes its possible! As a matter of fact ive coded in c++/c for several years.. So making a user interface for mapping/macro's isnt such a hard task..But it will be a lengthy one.

Thats what i mean by having the PnC (Play And Charge) since it has USB one end.. and the other end connects into the top of your controller.. I could rig up a little programmer by tapping onto these connectors pins!

It most defently wont be in the first few versions.. But if the project gets popular and i see/hear of alot of people using the mod. Then yes defently look into something like that.

Peace

Modded Matt · « **Reply #5 on:** November 23, 2009, 07:00:24 AM »

here is a bit of something I came accross a year or so ago just been procrastinating with.

t0pP8uZz · « **Reply #6 on:** November 23, 2009, 04:51:22 PM »

Good ol ULN.

Thats gona be kinda a bigcircuit to install into or around the controller..

Thats another debate im havin with myself.. Should i use the PIC16 that spitfire uses.. or go for something bigger so that ALL buttons are supported.. Something with around 20 pins should surfice! Whats your views?

Peace

GhoSt · « **Reply #7 on:** November 23, 2009, 05:30:33 PM »

Im going to learn to code on the 16f887 (44 pin microprocessor), I have a debug board for it. It has plenty of I/O pins and I know several places it can fit around the controller, it will need a pcb though as its SMD, I think its 1mm pitch on the pins so it shouldn't be to hard to solder to a pcb. Would this be a suitable chip for your mappable macro codes?1 last exam then then (New Zealand) summer holidays and my dad is going to teach me to code assembler.

Hazer · « **Reply #8 on:** November 23, 2009, 07:58:51 PM »

Lets look at it this way: You will want 1 input and 1 output per button.

ABXY = 8 pins.

R-Thumb; L-Thumb; RB; LB = 8 more.

You can fit 4 tactiles underneath the controller, so there is 4 more input pins.

Right there you have 20 I/O.

We have not mentioned the DPAD. That would be 8 more.

And personally, I see alot of value in cutting the trace for the SYNC button to use it for modchip purposes and have a special combination when you need the SYNC function (L-thumb + DPAD left + SYNC = sync the controller for real). That would be 2 more I/O.

Lets not forget our rapdifire, 2 more for the triggers.

Now we are upto 32 digital I/O.

What about the sticks? Theres 4 analog axes. That could be 4 analog inputs. And if you want analog out, your best bet is an external DAC across SPI. They have enough juice to force the sticks wiper to a pre-determined voltage level without cutting those. Although you could cut the sticks out and have them directly wired to the PIC, and under default conditions just send the same voltage back through the DAC. Then you could manipulate the sticks under special configs, kinda like RDCs big project. Anyway, lets add 4 analog inputs and at least 4 digital outputs for the DACs.

Oh. LEDs. It would be nice to knwo what kind of mode the controller is in. 3-4 LED outputs?

At this point I am up to 44 pins, and the PIC16 series truly only has 36 I/O pins as its largest package (there is one 64 pin 16F, but it is not self-writable).

There are lots of 18F series though with enough pins. They come in 64 TQFP. Not fun stuff to do in your garage though. This is what you get assembly quotes to go with your PCB quote.

If you ditch the sync button, the DPAD, and the analog sticks, you can get it back into 36 I/O. That can be done with a 44 pin PIC.

t0pP8uZz · « **Reply #9 on:** November 24, 2009, 06:37:34 AM »

I know theres another big issue. Having a device that has enough pins.

Maybe having every button mappable could be something done in the future.. Just get macroing sorted to start with.. Im defently gona continue you with project though, Wonder if theres anywhere where we can fit a 40pin device inside the wireless controller..with a little moddifying.. Or maybe go with a SMD.

Needs alot of looking into before i start the coding.

Hazer · « **Reply #10 on:** November 24, 2009, 03:05:00 PM »

It is possible to fit a 40 pin dip if you remove a motor.

SMD is a much better option though.

GhoSt · « **Reply #11 on:** November 24, 2009, 03:09:34 PM »

its not worth removing a rumble, if you remove one you basicaly have to remove the other because otherwise it throws of the balence, so just go smd.

t0pP8uZz · « **Reply #12 on:** November 24, 2009, 06:26:47 PM »

Quote

It is possible to fit a 40 pin dip if you remove a motor.

SMD is a much better option though.

Im gona order some various PIC DIP/SMD packages.. few 40 pins, few 50 pins etc.. And see if i can fit them in anywhere.

The problem with the SMD.. Is programming them..I have a incircuit programmer.. so for me.. its not a problem.. But for users i know alot of people have programmers only for DIP packages. But like you say SMD is the way to go!

So theres 2 options.

1. Try and create a internal programmer for programming the PIC using the PnC port on the controller.. the xbox360 play n charge cable.

2. Read data from another smaller pic on the outside of the controller.. like where spitfire mods pic is installed. Or read data from a MMC.. but thats pretty complex and i would know where to start.

What do you think Hazer?

Peace

Post Merge: November 24, 2009, 07:00:08 PM

Okay well after alot of searching around it came down too 2 devices that i really liked..

Incredible features.

18F6622 vs 18F6627

These pics have some really nice features.. the 6627 is alot more pricier then the 6622.. But has that extra power :-) And has 54 I/O pins each... Even if i dont add the ramapping in the first few releases its still nice to be able to adapt it in future releases.

Whats your thoughts people?

Post Merge: November 27, 2009, 08:23:35 AM

Okay just ordered 10 18F667's Gona get to work on this baby very soon. t0pfire is done.. theres a actually a pre-release for all R&D+

Peace

GhoSt · « **Reply #13 on:** November 27, 2009, 11:56:00 PM »

if you do usb re-programmable function will you make a GUI for it as that would be cool

Hazer · « **Reply #14 on:** November 28, 2009, 05:47:53 AM »

I would have picked the 18F65J50 or the 18F85J50. They are low-power USB chips that have 49 and 65 I/O respectively. I am not sure exactly why the 18F6627 were your first choice, as the only thing it has over the USB chips is EEPROM and an internal oscillator. But those are inconsequential as you need a specific external oscillator for the USB module, and you can use unused program memory as EEPROM on these bigger chips when its not included.

Oh, the two chips I picked are less than $3 too.

t0pP8uZz · « **Reply #15 on:** November 28, 2009, 06:22:08 AM »

I have by no means picked the chips that ive decided to use.. because i actually havent decided. Just gona test these see what there like.. Ive never actually done USB programming in-circuit style..so i wouldnt know where to start.. i got some reading to do.

peace

Hazer · « **Reply #16 on:** November 28, 2009, 06:05:05 PM »

Quote

I have by no means picked the chips that ive decided to use.. because i actually havent decided. Just gona test these see what there like.. Ive never actually done USB programming in-circuit style..so i wouldnt know where to start.. i got some reading to do.

The more you read, the more you know.

Just to give you a quick overview: There are two ways to re-program a chip after it is installed into a controller: ICSP, or by a boot-loader.

ICSP requires you use the programming voltage (+13V under most circumstances) and would require you to isolate those pins on the chip, otherwise you could damage the controller.

A boatloader is where the first firmware of the chip gets programmed with ... a boatloader: A program designed to sit in the first proagram memory space a9that is protected from being re-written in teh configuration word) and waits for a special condition to load a whole new hex file through a communications port (USART, I2C, SPI, or USB) and it re-writes the program memory. This is what Vikings chip does.

What my chip does is simply use 14 bytes of information to determine the entire configuration of the chip, as that is all that is needed to have a completely configurable rapidfire controller (not including macro functions).

In order to do a bootloader, you can easily rip the source code from microchip.com. Theres tons of info there.

I do knwo that most people would prefer to use USB (most common protocol) and I am getting the sense people would also like to be able to configure thier controller using the same protocol to change the speeds and modes (and macro finctions) in any way they choose (the freedom offered by my controller).

So the two chips I picked were for the follwing reasons:

USB
Self-writable (bootload capable)
Multiple I/O
Low-power (3V required for USB, not 5V)
Cheap ($2.50)

If you go this route, there is no way to do it in a DIP package. It will have to use a PCB with SMD parts.

t0pP8uZz · « **Reply #17 on:** November 29, 2009, 05:36:22 AM »

Thanks hazer..

Well id probarly want something like a bootloader.. I could write x amount of bytes to change the macros etc.. but thats gona get messy for larger macros..

The chips i ordered support all of that.. There just alot pricier! Im gona play with a few things when they arrive. They do have a wide voltage operating range.. 3-5v.

viking360 uses "Microchip USB HID Bootloader" this isnt there program is it? Its obviously a free-ware program on the net somewhere.. I downloaded it from viking360 but theres no 'about' page or any info on the GUI of the program.. So where could i find its bootloader code for the pic? any ideas?

Yeah a bootloader doesnt even sound that complex to write one from scratch.. basically listen for incoming bytes on a certain protocol. But i dont really fancy writing one.

Peace

geekonaut · « **Reply #18 on:** November 29, 2009, 09:47:40 AM »

A USB bootloader IS complex. The one Viking uses is the vanilla USB bootloader that Microchip provides. There isn't any need to write your own, since the manufacturer has one, along with a million 3rd party ones (though most aren't USB). Here are a bunch of PIC bootloaders:
http://www.microchip.com/forums/printable.aspx?m=424874

Viking360 · « **Reply #19 on:** November 29, 2009, 02:30:26 PM »

Check out the CGnome project. http://www.cgnome.com/ There's also a few pics over at xbox-scene of a working prototype, I don't have the link handy (and I'm not sure if links are censored here or not so I won't bother posting that one too)

Post Merge: November 29, 2009, 02:33:33 PM

Oh! I found it. Also links are not censored hurray! http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=691809&st=0

t0pP8uZz · « **Reply #20 on:** November 29, 2009, 06:18:05 PM »

Umm looks a nice project! Is progress being made?

Hazer · « **Reply #21 on:** November 29, 2009, 08:06:54 PM »

The last they reported, they had full remapping of the analog sticks and some single-button macros fully working with thier PC utility. It was all shown in a video. The only two bad things were they were programming the chip ICSP and the macros were only good at simulating the press of a single button at a time (never macro two buttons at once). I consider these two points as major flaws that need to be fixed. Considering they are the only project to have come this far with working proto-types and full featured PC utilities, those flaws are insignificant. The amount of work already done is beyond impressive.

But it is also not flawless. There is room for improvement. I would suggest taking a real good look at what they have done so far and use it as a baseline for your project. Some of the features you may consider as completely useless, others as bare-minimum-requirements.

t0pP8uZz · « **Reply #22 on:** November 30, 2009, 09:39:35 AM »

Wow the pics arrived today! There alot smaller then i expected! There tiny! probarly too small!

GhoSt · « **Reply #23 on:** November 30, 2009, 12:42:11 PM »

as long as the pitch isn't under 1/2mm then they are humanly solderable lol.

Modded Matt · « **Reply #24 on:** November 30, 2009, 12:57:16 PM »

smd lol good luck with that. they are soo close together. need to get them on pcb

t0pP8uZz · « **Reply #25 on:** November 30, 2009, 01:17:47 PM »

Quote from: modded matt on November 30, 2009, 12:57:16 PM

smd lol good luck with that. they are soo close together. need to get them on pcb

Soldering them isnt a problem.. I consider myself a decent solderer.. However as matt mentions above.. you really do need a PCB.. its just sooo hard to program else.. and i dont want wire everywhere.

This project is most defently gona get completed eventually.. And yes i will supply a installation tutorial.. but trust me..it wont be for the faint hearted! I need to order a TQFP proto-board.. Then have PCB's made. Im still debating on the PIC to use.

spurgurgle · « **Reply #26 on:** November 30, 2009, 01:25:52 PM »

yes this project does sound like it'll be a challenging install (once it's all finished,tested and what not) i cant wait to ava go at doing this

its going to be a beast........

GhoSt · « **Reply #27 on:** November 30, 2009, 03:18:31 PM »

Yea there is no doubt you are going to need a pcb, lucky I got access to a cnc pcb mill

Probably going to be a huge amount of wire install, where are you planning on mounting the chip?

t0pP8uZz · « **Reply #28 on:** November 30, 2009, 05:01:18 PM »

Well.. Like i said not sure if im using this chip yet.. But damn its tiny.

Will defently need a pcb for install else your gona get shorts across the pins.

The pic as everything needed and much more.. But its quite pricey.. I ordered 10.. at like 6.50GBP each. Im not bothered but i know others will be cheap scates!

Now ive got the pic's i probarly will use them.. I have to make yet another order on farnell.. I need some solder wick, TQFP protoboard.. some other stuff i need to order too.

Im gona take this project slow.. so dont expect a release soon.. But i can almost guarentee there will a good release in the near future.

Peace

Hazer · « **Reply #29 on:** November 30, 2009, 07:26:10 PM »

The SMD is tiny, but necessary. They dont make anything DIP beyond 40 pins anyway. But the 64 or 80 TQFP is going to be beyond the skill of most people. Hell, I personally wouldnt bother doing it. If I had to work with one of those chips, I would order the dev board that breaks it out. After dev, I would quote it for assembly. Doing 64 or 80 pins by hand is way too time consuming, and most DIY home ovens are not very succesful (not to mention most people dont have them).

I just looked at Sparkfun. They used to carry some pre-soldered SMD pics on breakout boards, but nothing with that many pins.

News:

Author Topic: XMMC - Xbox Macroable Mappable Controller (Read 11474 times)