PS3 Remappable controller and code **updated**

[devilinops]

thanks Hazer for the info for mini usb and that site will come in handy in the future also the R1 in your diagram doesn't seem to have a value do you remember what resistor was you used?

[Hazer]

R1 is 10K Ohms. Its a simple pull-up resistor, anything between 5K and 20K will do fine.

[Moosh89]

I don't care if this sounds lame, but this made me cry! hahaha

I am also disabled, and I did sign Chucks petition a long time ago, and have found him on a few message boards that I post on. I finally found this board and lo and behold... I find him again! AND that he now has a controller he can use!

This is just way too great. Thank you Hazer, and anyone else involved... I feel like I've just witnessed a miracle or something! (OK that sounds really cheesy but its how I feel! haha)

I was amazed at watching Chuck play Call of Duty before with his face. I noticed that he was very limited on what he could do, gameplay wise, but was proud that he could still enjoy himself. Watching him play with his new controller is like watching someone who is not disabled play. That is what made me cry.

Video games have been a very big part of my life. Its family time with my brothers, its "escaping the fears" of my crazy life, with being disabled, and just a bit of natural bad luck thrown in for good measure (We lost my childhood home to fire, and most of its contents, and our new house they built is no good, so they'll either have to rebuild again or buy us out, We don't know what they'll do). They have also been physically theraputic. The strength in my hands has increased, as well as my reaction time

I am very lucky, that with the severity of my disease, my hands are not really affected. I would be lost without my hands, they drive me, they play games with me, they create things with me, they show my affection for those I love by hand holding, or a warm placement of my hand upon my Mothers back or shoulder, Petting our animals and playing with my nephew <3.

So thank you everyone! it really means alot!

And please, If you haven't done so already, PLEASE sign Chucks Petition! There are many, many disabled people out there who cannot play video games with standard control schemes.

SIGN THE PETITION HERE!:
http://www.petitiononline.com/cu5t0m/petition.html

[JOHNNYJR3334]

I was born without arms, and only have 1/2 of a leg that has a foot where the knee would be.  I use my foot as others would use their hands.  I have been a gamer myself since Atari.  The first biggest challenge I faced was with the ps2.  I, like Mr Bittner was unable to reach and use the L and R buttons.  I then found a controller called the stormchaser.  This controller was extremely easy for me to use.

Then Came the ps3.  I had to wait a while to see if someone would make a remapping controller.  I then saw where you can use an adapter to use ps2 controller on ps3.  WOW, what an answer to pray....however, that pad does not work with all games (such as Socom4).  I have been real discouraged until I found this forum. 

This mod is a real answer to prayer.  Are these controllers for sale?  I am in real need.   

And, just in case someone is doubting my condition, you can check out my website (johnnyhudson.com), or find me on YouTube (under armlessbowler). 

Any help will be GREATLY appreciated.  If needed my email address is preacher@johnnyhudson.com.  Thank you in advance.

[COREGAMER]

Good work hazer
I think you are the greatest modder in history m8.
keep up the good work

[Rodent]

Good work hazer
I think you are the greatest modder in history m8.
keep up the good work

AGREED!!!! and a Modder who cares about others!!! 

[COREGAMER]

Yeah Someday I wanna become like hazer

[Hazer]

I was born without arms, and only have 1/2 of a leg that has a foot where the knee would be.  I use my foot as others would use their hands.  I have been a gamer myself since Atari.  The first biggest challenge I faced was with the ps2.  I, like Mr Bittner was unable to reach and use the L and R buttons.  I then found a controller called the stormchaser.  This controller was extremely easy for me to use.

Then Came the ps3.  I had to wait a while to see if someone would make a remapping controller.  I then saw where you can use an adapter to use ps2 controller on ps3.  WOW, what an answer to pray....however, that pad does not work with all games (such as Socom4).  I have been real discouraged until I found this forum. 

This mod is a real answer to prayer.  Are these controllers for sale?  I am in real need.   

And, just in case someone is doubting my condition, you can check out my website (johnnyhudson.com), or find me on YouTube (under armlessbowler). 

Any help will be GREATLY appreciated.  If needed my email address is preacher@johnnyhudson.com.  Thank you in advance.

Hey Johnny. What you can do is post in the "modders for hire" section and see if someone will build this for you. I am wondering if you might need something a little different than what Chuck got, especially since you mentioned the Stormchaser. If what you need is more buttons on the face, someone can possibly do that too.

[cdanv]

The microprocessor used in the tutorial is this?
http://www.tme.eu/en/details/pic18f14k50-i_p/8-bit-microchip-microcontrollers/microchip-technology/

[WHITE 4ND N3RDY]

Quote from hazers post; " this mod uses the PIC18F14K50". So to awenser your question yes that microchip u have posted will work fine. Don't worry about the I/P at the end of it. That's the one u would want to get.

[WHITE 4ND N3RDY]

I bet u could wire a 8 pin Rapid fire chip to this remapper chip and have remappible Rapid fire. Anyone think this would be plausible? If it connects to the com and I connect the connections to the remapper pic that are wire to where the 8 pin chip should be wired I don't see any reason why it wouldn't re convert the signals. So I could change the R2 to any button then activate the mod and run it. Might have to pick up a ps3 controller and test this out. Of course I don't own a ps3 controller but it would be a fun project to build them sell it off for 60$ lol. Put a ps3 trufire fusion V3.5 8 pin chip!!!! I like to think out side of the box of conventional. Its always done me right in a lot of my own builds like my 360 prototype controller where I made 6 12f683 chips wired to a 360 controller. Would love to see someone do this.

[Gary]

hello all. I'm new here and I'm interested in doing this mod. I'm a long time android gamer and love sixaxis app because I can custom map all my shooter games exactly like I want. makes playing different games much easier. So back on subject. My main issue with the op's original post is none of the pics in the tutorial work. Makes doing this difficult mod extremely difficult. Any way those pics can be restored? Also just like to add I'm no noob to working on electronics and modifying them I used to build custom cb radios for fun. that said ill have some more questions I'm sure and appreciate any help.

[RDC]

The wiring diagrams are in the mediafire links. As for the Tact switch install and headphone/USB jack, those can really go wherever you like as long as there is room for them.

CBs are a pretty far cry from the guts of a DS3. It's not really the next logical step to take there, as everything is mere fractions of the size and far more fragile, so take your time and be very careful with everything in there.

The pics also only cover the VX3, VX3.5 and VX4 version DS3 controllers, so if you have another version you'll have to figure out what spots to use and where to cut your traces. Sony didn't change the way the VX versions work, just hardware after hardware after hardware revisions. I stopped messing with them years back and never ran across the newer versions, so that thread isn't 100% up to date, but they still work the same as the older versions.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?/topic/648322-ps3-controller-versions-and-tp-spots/#entry4261549

[Gary]

Lot of good info there itl help out thanks.  I got controllers going back to the original fatty that still work just need a cleaning. Found this thread and thought it sounds like a good winter project. Seems like cheap fun and if it works even better.

[RDC]

I can't recall if I ever posted this around here or not, just found the draft for it in my PS3 folder and it's around 3 years old, but it was about installing this thing. You might find some of it useful also...

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This was thought up and done by Hazer here on the AM forums, so all credit goes to him for it. I have nothing to do with it besides the way I went about installing it here is all. His entire post should be read thru before thinking of attempting this, as well as the place to grab the files you'll need for it if you decide too. Some of it is gone over again here, but either way it should be read thru first. - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,39591.0.html

This isn't exactly a full 100% step by step install tutorial, but it's more than a just how I did it thread as well.

I wanted to keep all of the wiring on the back side of the controller board, so this is a tad more difficult, on top of how much it already is, than it could be. After all of the prep work is done, then the board can be reinstalled with no having to flip it back or wiring on the top side that could come loose and it all pulled apart for a repair.

This was installed on a VX5 version PS3 controller, though the pictures can apply to the VX4 as well, since that board is pretty much in the same layout, but it should be double checked if anyone attempts it. The version of controller doesn't matter, since all of the PS3 controllers work the same way, it's just the spots everything would go will be different depending.

Decide if you're going to use the USB connector of the controller for the Programming cable, or an external USB connector of some sort. Either way will work, but if you use the controller's USB connector then you need to cut 2 more traces and use a DPDT switch for the install. I used the USB connector and a DPDT, the one Hazer did was with a 2.5mm headset jack, again either way will work the same, this is just how I did this one.


Tools

Programmer that can flash a PIC 18F14k50
Hex files for the PIC
Phillips screwdriver
Soldering Iron
Hot Glue Gun
Xacto knife


Parts

PIC 18F14k50
12MHz Xtal

Tact switch, N.O. Momentary type (For Programming button)

Resistors
- 100ohm x1
- 10k x 3
- 13k x 2
- 14k x 2 (just in case)
- 22k x 2
- 86k x 1

Capacitors
- 0.1uF x 1
- 0.47uF x 1
- 18pf x 2 (For Xtal. Optional but recommended. Check the Xtal DataSheet for the recommended value)

DPDT switch (only if USB connector is going to be used)

Connector for USB Programming Cable. (only if USB connector is NOT going to be used)

LED - BiColor, Red/Green. Do not use an LED that has 3 leads as it has either a Common Anode or Common Cathode connection made internally, and that will not work for this. You can use either 2 separate LEDs, or some SMT version that has them both in the same package, but still gives you access to each LEDs connections separately.


NOTE - This isn't an easy modification and it has it's challenges, plus the PS3 controllers aren't as forgiving as most other controller's circuit boards. Even if you're the cat's arse with the 360 controller, the PS3 controllers are a completely different animal. Don't find out the hard way you shouldn't have tried it, or you'll at best end up with a ruined controller. If you have money to throw away on ruined controllers, then just have someone that can do it build the thing for you so everyone comes out ahead.


This assumes you have the controller already taken apart and the board removed, because if you need help with that part of it, then the rest of this is something that shouldn't even be thought about attempting.


First desolder the Left Stick from the board, 16 solder joints. Cut the trace where the Black mark is. This is ideally the maximum area the Xacto blade should touch. A new blade in the Xacto knife will make a world of difference here. This is also the easiest trace to cut for this mod.




Then take the Stick and cut the marked pin. Either use a small piece of tape or cut the pin flush, or more, with the plastic of the Stick so it's isolated from the hole it was originally in. After that trace has been cut and the pin removed you can reinstall the Stick.




There are 3 traces on the back side of the board that need to be cut. Again, be VERY careful when cutting them as other traces around them don't want to be cut. Use a good magnifying glass and more than adequate light so you can see what you're doing. Again the traces need to be cut are where the Black marks are.






If you are going to use the USB connector, then there are 2 more traces that need to be cut.




At this point you should install the LED, Programming button and if you're using the USB connector then install the DPDT switch. If not, then install whatever connector you're using for the Programmming cable.

The wiring for the DPDT switch is the USB connector goes to the 2 middle pins of the switch. Then one side of the switch goes to the controller's TP2 (D-) and TP3 (D+) spots on the board, while the other side will go to the D- and D+ connections of the 18F14k50 chip. Make SURE that all of the D- and D+ connections are wired correctly. If you get a D- and a D+ crossed it's not going to kill anything, but it's not going to work either.


The Programming button, LED and DPDT/connector can be installed wherever you like, as long as there is room. This is just how I did this one.







The PIC 18F14k50

Use the programmer and flash the USB Device BootLoader.hex file to the PIC.

After that has been done, you can use the BootLoader.exe to flash the Remap Project.hex file to the PIC. Make sure the Xtal is installed on the PIC at this point, or it will not run and thus the BootLoader.exe app will not see it.

Once you have the PIC flashed and then programmed, you can build the circuit up however you like. I opted to have a board made so I could keep the components small, and it's easier in the long run to deal with, but any method will work the same as long as everything is connected correctly.




Refer to this picture and again to the pictures above to see what connections go where.



RC1 - Read COM1
RC2 - Read COM2
WC1 - Write COM1
WC2 - Write COM2
RL3 - Read L3
RR3 - Read R3
WL3 - Write L3
WR3 - Write R3
TGR - Trigger
SW - Switch (Programming button)
VDD - 2.8v power, TP13
GND - Ground



INSTALLED (the way I did it)












TESTING

Make sure you're using a battery that is either close to or fully charged and turn the controller on, the LED you installed should be Red. Tap the Programming button to make sure the PIC is working. It should change back and forth from Red / not pressed to Green / pressed. If it does not, go back and check all of the wiring and trace cuts as everything has to be connected up properly before things will work.


PROGRAMMING MODE

Press and hold the Programming button for a couple of seconds, the LED will be Green and then turn Red briefly. Quickly release the Programming button while it's Red. If you wait too long the LED will go back to Green and you have to release the Programming button and try again.

If you release the Programming button correctly, the LED will stay Red and NOT change color to Green when tapped. This means it is now in Programming Mode.

If you used the USB connector and DPDT switch, flip the switch over to the Remap chip side and plug up your USB cable to the controller and the PC. The LED will quickly flash Red/Green while it's syncing to the PC, then it will slowly blink Green when it's complete. You can now start the Remap Utility.


REMAPPING

Press the 'Connect' button (top left corner) and the 'Save to Controller' button (top right corner) should become active.



ISSUES (just in case)

This is the only problem I had after the install, so anything other than this will be a new one.

I had an issue on this VX5 after installing the Remap board. If the controller seems like all of the buttons are pressed at the same time and is unresponsive, press and hold the Programming button and see if the Sticks will then work. If it does, then the 13k Resistors need to be changed to the 14k ones and it should start working then.

[Gary]

Again lots of good info I really appreciate it. Now I need to start gathering up what's needed and figure out what controller is going to be my guinea pig then gut it. Thanks.

Ok so I've been doing research and most of what I need isn't to hard to find would be easier if radio shack was like it was years back but no biggie.  My biggest obstacle is figuring out how to push the bootloader to the pic. Is this done by connecting it directly to a usb cable to the computer?  I've found a device called a pic2 witch doesn't seem to be avaliable anyway anymore but not sure if I even need such a device.  I've rooted and flashed many devices with new operating systems but never just a chip. How do you guy do this?

[admin]Please do not double post click edit to add to your post[/admin]

[RDC]

So, did that research include reading my last post? As the very first thing in the Tools section is..

Tools

Programmer that can flash a PIC 18F14k50

The PICkit 2 does not fully support the 18F14K50, but the PICkit 3 does. You can pick up a PK3 for around $30 or so online.

After you have it, you'll need the stand alone programmer app for it. http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/PICkit_3_Programmer_1_0_Setup_A.zip

Then you'll connect 5 wires to the chip from the programmer, ICSP or In Circuit Serial Programming, VPP, VDD, VSS, CLK and DAT, and then load up the hex and flash away. After that, the programmer and app are not needed again for this project.

If you're not into all of that, and then possibly having a useless tool that will collect dust, I'm sure there are a couple of guys around here that could flash up the PIC for you if you covered the cost of them getting it and the shipping. I'm in the US and could do it if you wanted to go that route.

[Gary]

I didn't even notice the tools needed said programer needed. I did read it I just can't see as well as I used to. Also leaving my reading glasses at work doesn't help either. Don't mind much buying tools I use one time I got tools going back to the 70s I've used one time. I look at them as an investment in learning something. Although I've already given it thought that if this is beyond my skills I'll try and find one of you guys if interested to make me one.

Ordered up the pik3 from amazon. After sorting out all the clones I found one for $30. Gonna be a month before I see it dang free shipping is slow. But that gives me plenty of time to find all the little parts needed. I'm gonna try and scavenge resisters from broken electronics to save a buck if I can and I need to still order the pic. Thanks

Rdc if you don't mind me asking where did you get the switch you used to switch the programming port? Can't find one like that there all too big even the so called micro switches.

[admin]Please do not Double or triple post click edit to add to your post or edit post[/admin]

[RDC]

It's a G22AP, made by NKK Switches. You can get it at DigiKey, Mouser an the like. It's a bit pricey at $5, but it's been a staple switch I've used for a lot of controllers I've done, along with the AYZ0202GRLC by C&K Components if you prefer a slide switch, as they are small and work.

[Gary]

Thanks.

[Gary]

Quick question.  The op provided the bootloader and a remap hex. Do both get flashed to the pic or just the bootloader? Got my pic3 and flashed the bootloader but not sure about the other file at this point. Thanks.

[RDC]

That information is in the post I made on how I did this.

[Modded Matt]

Hello Gary,

Hazer (The OP) is great at what he does, but sometimes expects the users to know more than they do. I do not see where he clearly stated how to program the chip. If you go up and read RDC (another great member) reply #44 he goes into more detail.

A boot loader is an application on the PC that allows in circuit programming from a PC. so once everything is installed the code can be modified without the need to disassemble the controller. However, a boot loader does not just work on its own, the PIC you are using must be flashed with the bootloader HEX  prior to assembly. an any remap or update HEx files are flashed after assembly using the desktop PC bootloader application.

All of this info is noted above.

[RDC]

Even I didn't go into really great detail with the steps up there, so IIRC here is a bit more info on how all of that goes..

1 - Use the PICkit to flash the PIC with the "USB Device - HID - HID Bootloader - C18 - PIC18F14K50.hex" file first. After this the programmer is of no more use for this project.

2 - Either go ahead with the installation of everything else at this point, or just wire up the USB connections, the Xtal and power/ground to the PIC. I'd recommend doing this so you can see if it works before wiring up that whole entire mess (no disrepect to Hazer mean there) only to find out that it does not work and you're tearing it all back out to start over or find what is wrong.

3 - Now you can use the HIDbootloader.exe to flash the PIC with the "Remap Project.hex" file, and that is done over the USB connection.

[Gary]

It is a little foggy how the programming works. I came to the conclusion it needs to be connected directly to the computer like you just said for the remap project to flash.  I'm in the process of doing that just going for broke and doing a complete install then plug it in and see if the bootloader exe  sees it. I'm doing it like hazer did one wire at a time starting with the easy ones.  No bull this is very hard to do I can only do so much then need to walk away. Thanks for the clarification.