DualShock 4 Controller PCB scans

[Lotus.2]

same thing.
if there is no wire welded onto the board the same problem occurs.

[RDC]

If the controller worked before, then the issue is where you were poking around in there. Post some good pics of your board.

[Lotus.2]

here is the pic

[RDC]

You have a solder bridge from the O via to Ground, so it's acting like O is constantly being pressed.

[Lotus.2]

oh...
how can i solve this problem?

[RDC]

Remove that solder off of there with some braid and a bit of flux.

[Lotus.2]

ok thank you. ill try that tomorrow.
could you please tell me how you found out that this is the problem?

[RDC]

I can see the short in your pic. More so, O is back. You have O shorted and and issue where it's going back.

[Lotus.2]

Thank you very much for your help.
I could fix the controller the way you told me.
 

[RDC]

Welcome

[famicom89]

Hi, I'm making a "hitbox" fightstick with JDM-030 board and was wondering, can I simply solder wires on the graphite-like contacts on the sides of the pcb, connect those same wires to my sanwa buttons and connect the other terminal to GND (or Vcc)?
Can I encounter any problems by doing so?

thanks in advance

[RDC]

Yes and No.

You'll need to gently remove the coating from the contacts first to expose the copper pad, then you can solder to it.

The DS4 uses 3 different button configurations also, so you'll need to wire up all of your buttons accordingly and install a couple of Resistors to take the place of the existing Daughter boards that will no longer be installed.


The D-pad, X, O, [ ] and /\ buttons all use Ground for their common. Also the PS, Touchpad, Share and Option buttons use Ground for common.

The L1, R1, L3 and R3 buttons all use 3.2v as the common.

The L2 and R2 are where it gets to be a little more work. First you'll need to install a Pull-Up Resistor from 3.2v to the L2 and R2 lines, one for each side. The value is ~7.5k, but 10k will work just as well in this case. Then you'll connect your new L2 and R2 buttons wires to the L2/2L spots for L2, and R2/2R spots for R2.

If you have the room, just leave the Sticks installed on the board, as you don't want to tear up any traces there and have that mess to deal with.

[famicom89]

Thanks for marking the correct buttons contacts on the image.

The L2 and R2 are where it gets to be a little more work. First you'll need to install a Pull-Up Resistor from 3.2v to the L2 and R2 lines, one for each side. The exact value is 7.5k, but 10k will work just as well in this case. Then you'll connect your new L2 and R2 buttons wires to the L2/2L spots for L2, and R2/2R spots for R2.

I read that L2 and R2 are active-high, so I thought to make inverters with BJTs for those lines, but if a pull-up resistor works fine I'll do that instead.

If you have the room, just leave the Sticks installed on the board, as you don't want to tear up any traces there and have that mess to deal with.

Yeah, I think I'll just glue those in place so they won't get in the way while playing.
Also, for touchpad button, do you recommend soldering the wires on the old button's contacts on the upper layer? They seem to stick out quite a bit from the sides of the button

[RDC]

The L2/R2 are not active Hi at all, in fact they are better described as active Lo, but even that is technically incorrect as they are a little more complicated than that.

Yes, I'd solder to the existing Touchpad button leads. In that pic, the bottom set of leads are for the Touchpad, the top set are just Ground.

[Omario123]

Hello Guys, So I'm starting to get really good at modifying Xbox one controllers. Recently, I bought a PS4 console sometime around February 25th. It was a new model and as I looked through the PCB scans and looking at my exposed PS4 PCB, I determined that it was the TH201 model. With both the X and O trace points being tightly located by the battery connector. I used my Xacto knife to expose them perfectly. I was able to see the copper of both traces. I saw a youtube video by "The Electronic Truth" that stated that the X ground was on the bottom right side of the controller and the O ground was on the bottom left side of the controller, so I used (KOOCU, 63Sn, 37pb, 0.3mm) solder on the trace points and attached one wire to each trace point. Then I also attached wires to their individual grounds making sure that I did not make any mistakes with the wire order. The X ground was paired with the X trace point and the O ground was paired with the O trace point. Then all 4 wires were split into two pairs. 2 wires went to the X tactile switch, 2 other wires went to the O tactile switch. The 2 wires of each pair were hooked up on the same side of the tactile switch. I put the controller together and turned on the PS4, neither tactile switches worked and the X face button wasn't working while the the O face button did. I usually never stop practicing even if failure occurs. So I opened up my controller and un-soldered every wire inside, basically making it an untouched PS4 controller except for the copper bare trace points. Then I put it back together and everything worked 100% fine. I just can't seem to understand what I am doing wrong.

[RDC]

Without good pictures of the board in question, one can only guess, and my guess would be you had X shorted to Ground, then O wasn't connected at all. The ground plane is all around the X and O vias, so it's not difficult to scrape some of the mask away and cause a short there when soldering the wire on it, just read thru this entire thread. With X shorted at the solder joint you made, the original X would not work, then removing the short restored it.

There is also no such thing as an X ground and an O ground, the real electronic truth is, ground is ground. Those are simply the solder lugs for the sticks that happen to be connect to ground.

[Omario123]

I didnt feel like reopening my PS4 controller to take a look but thank you for trying to help. Is it possible that you could tell me how to wire everything step by step in the most dumbed down words possible?  For the X and O buttons.

[RDC]

If it's a JDM-030, then the easiest way to do duplicate buttons is to not solder on the controller at all.

https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43753.0.html

[Omario123]

Does the JDM-030 pcb fit all controllers? And if so, how do you use those flexes that you designed. Like where do you attach everything?

[RDC]

The JDM-030 is just one of the DS4 PCB revisions, and only fits in a shell made for a JDM-030, look thru the beginning of this thread for the different revisions.

The SFX that I designed there works only on the JDM-030, and it just goes between the PCB and it's daughter boards, the same way that the RemappeD does. - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43790.0.html

With the SFX installed, then you can solder to the much larger and easier pads on it, versus doing the more difficult, and possibly risky, prepping and soldering to the small Vias on the actual board.

[Camme]

Hi guys, i want to know the value of this resistance. Thanks.

[RDC]

27ohm, 0402

[Camme]

Is it the same value for the model JDM-011 ? Thanks.

[RDC]

This might be a good time to get yourself a cheap DMM and find out that it is.

[Camme]

I haven't this resistance so i can't test it. I will try with the 27 ohm. Thanks 

[RDC]

I already told you it was 27ohm, so you do have the value to test against any other Resistor you want. That pair there are both 27ohm and are in the USB data lines.

[stratoside]

You can, but then your LEDs will be on ALL of the time. Also, the battery voltage will be ~4.2v while it's charging and vary from that to 3v or so. This is the least recommended way to power your LEDs from the controller as the power source is not regulated (stays at a specific voltage) and it is on all of the time since it's just a battery. Even if you were to use a switch in that circuit so you could determine when the LEDs were on/off, you still have the voltage issue.

There is a dedicated 3.2v source in there that powers pretty much everything that you should use for your LEDs instead. The voltage stays at 3.2v and it turns on/off (is switched) with the controller, so your LEDs would as well. The easiest place to get the 3.2v is the 2 outside leads of any one of the Sticks POTs, the row of 3 solder joints. One outside lead is Ground, the other is 3.2v, and you're done.

If you are looking at the bottom of the controller..

Code: [Select]


+ = 3.2v
- = Ground
X = X-axis
Y = Y-axis
L = L3
R = R3
O = Solder Lugs (these are also Ground)

     Right Stick              Left Stick

        + X -                    + X -
      O       O                O       O
 +  R           -         +  L           -
                Y                        Y
 +  R           +         +  L           +
      O       O                O       O


Hello,
first of all, thank you for the explanation on which pins give ~3v when the controller is on

I was wondering if this would work at all?



I plan on using 9 LEDs to light up 9 buttons (d pad, symbols, triggers and the PS button) for my project
and I was wondering if the ~3volt from the spots you have mentioned would be enough to power 9x3v leds?
I was planning on using 100 ohm resistors in parallel

or should I split the LED by having the Right stick power 4 LED while the Left stick power 5 LEDs? (if that matters at all)

thanks

[RDC]

It's a regulated 3.2v source, so it's 3.2v, and using one stick or both for power it would be the same.

As to it working or not, the schematic is correct, but LEDs are current driven devices, not voltage, once the fV of the LED is met that is.

Without knowing the specs of your LEDs there, you could be drawing too much current from that source and cause the controller to not work. I personally wouldn't draw any more than 100mA from there total, which gives you more than 10mA per LED to drive them, and if they aren't bright enough at 10mA, then you should get some better LEDs, as you really only need 5mA or less to light up some decent LEDs good.

If your LEDs voltage is rated at the mentioned 3v, then with 100ohm Resistors on each you'll get around 2.2mA per LED, which is fine, but without knowing the current rating of them it's impossible to say how bright they may be driven with that amount.

[stratoside]

It's a regulated 3.2v source, so it's 3.2v, and using one stick or both for power it would be the same.

As to it working or not, the schematic is correct, but LEDs are current driven devices, not voltage, once the fV of the LED is met that is.

Without knowing the specs of your LEDs there, you could be drawing too much current from that source and cause the controller to not work. I personally wouldn't draw any more than 100mA from there total, which gives you more than 10mA per LED to drive them, and if they aren't bright enough at 10mA, then you should get some better LEDs, as you really only need 5mA or less to light up some decent LEDs good.

If your LEDs voltage is rated at the mentioned 3v, then with 100ohm Resistors on each you'll get around 2.2mA per LED, which is fine, but without knowing the current rating of them it's impossible to say how bright they may be driven with that amount.

I believe they are rated for 20mA each, i will try playing around with 10 or 1 ohm resistors if 100ohm dims it too much

Thanks for the reply

[RDC]

That's the max rating then, so they should be OK looking at the 2mA or so.

If you were to use a 1ohm they'll fry.

Using 10ohm and they'll get 22mA per, which will be as bright as they can be and shorten their life span, which would also draw 198mA from the source.

Using 47ohm would get you 5mA per LED.